bob-hepple

ffreak yes I would go down that route too Like I said I installed a 35w heater as a precaution after reading some threads on this. Good luck.

I am a bit disapointed really, the only thing for me is the Feeder to put on my list, we shall se how long it takes for the hacks on it to appear. The rest I have done with the help and advise of this community (thank you) The glass clamps not interested. I feel that just maybe the company is resting on it's laurels and intuity of the community to put things right that should have been sorted by UM. If I'm not mistaken when it came to the Olson Block they were sceptical of the design yet they have implemented it. Don't get me wrong from a new user who wants very specific things I aplaud there efforts, but I see other companies closing in and surpassing Um if they carry on tinkering without a major push forward I could see them losing market share. For me the biggest thing is the community and the wealth of knowledge, I also bet they have kept the dam on and off button at the back.

hi I looked a a Vellmean about 18months ago it used Repetier did your printer come with it if so have you used it??? and if so does the same problem exist with it. if you haven't and you've got it try it. Thats the first point of call. not much help I'm sure but the problem is vague and if its your first print then Id expect vague

ffreak don't know if this will help as I don't print with hips but I do use Olson block and suggest it might be the way you have your fan settings I know that if you put the fans on at 100% you can get that error. I use a 35w heater but I always bring the fans on slowly starting at 40% and increase gradually.. hope this helps

Happy New year to you all.. I pulled a cracker over the Festive period and came up with this I wanted to keep all My Nozzles and my spare Block all together, this solves my problem, white is all I had unfortunatley but its functional. The nozzles range from .15 to 1.0mm steel are .4 and .5 note the one to left of Olson Block, a christmas present with Colour Fabb Carbon Fillament.

MM where do you find the start and finish sequences in cura (in the g Code) its been along time since I looked in cura

Hi I had thought of changing the plate while I was on Fitting Olson block and Korneels spacer Just decided for the amount of work and the redesigning of the fan shroud (I use Labern's) it was a lot of work for not a lot return considering there is more important things to worry about with the Um2

Hi for what its worth I too have the same, but I think your nozzle is 0.25 I too tested with miniture drills they are not the best to test with, and when you consider the difference 0.20 and 0.30 MMM its not a lot. the last batch of Nozzles i got had the sizes printed on which ends the confusion.

I switched from Cuba a year ago and while the switch was difficult it was worth it I haven't looked back S3D the way to go for me. And at the 3D shows it is well represented.

markusmaker I go with gr5, when I did the conversion I went with the upgraded heater and have had no problems with Labern shroud but I do introduce the fans gradually I do this as to not shock the Olson block and cause a sudden drop in temp.. I also made 4 spacer about 3mm thick under all 4 thumb screws. I also got a new Bowden tube as I'd cut the old one to use as spacer in iRoberts feeder design.

Phew Labern yep that's defo a typo error I meant 65 and just been reducing it down to 60 printing a very fine taper which has to be accurate (Leure Taper) and the bed is holding to much heat. still using your fan shroud with Olson Block though. scottfsmith like the print but there is a bulge on the stem is that on purpose and is the length of that stem specific. I take it at the other end is a very thick adhesion layer. Reason I ask when I suggested print it other way around I was thinking of splitting that stem. But you know exactly what your after and it looks very clean.

Fair Play I go with that but I don't know about the firmware I don't usually like messing with the firmware if Um upgrade there firmware (which they have quiet a few time in the last 12 months) how will this effect the moded firmware. are you locked into the moded firm until you need to upgrade for another reason.

Hi I have not used that size nozzle, but I do use simplify 3d and I would doubt its the nozzle size, I would look at the bed level and increase the gap also your fist layer at 130 might be to heavy for the size of nozzle your using, and your extrusion width I would set to Auto. But I would use .80 or .60 unless your doing wood fill ect, from what I understand it will be like tooth paste from the nozzle and a mess is what you'll get, you could try to reduce the flow to tame the beast. (adjust the extrusion multiplier). another thought before I ended I usually use different grades of Paper for bed levelling one sheet could be .20 and another could be .10 you could try starting to calibrate different heights to achieve a better gap, being more precise in what your levelling could lead you to predicted results. good luck

Glad we thought the same I print PLA at 190 with fans on full, bed at 165

I don't usual reply to topics as I'm a bit of a newby, but I would consider printing the other way around and possibly in two to get some of the height out. I assume the important bit is the internal shape printing the other way would make it more accurate, also I use simplify 3d which I personally think would handle that better. just my opinion.

Danilius Thanks for the reply I was going to go from 37mm yoke to 38mm yoke I thought this would of applied more pressure your reply indicates 36mm would apply more pressure, confused. The Spring is the stock Spring. The temp has been raised to 195 and it print well so I don't have a problem lifting temp. One thing I have just realised while replying I'm using colour fab pla black and we are well down the roll which seems to be very springy could this be causing a lot of friction in the Bowden tube?? Just a thought.

I'm using the 37mm yoke and I get one good print then when I re start print the feeder grind a notch so I'm going to go to a 38mm yoke, wanted to know if I'm heading in the right direction. Also since using the Olson block at 193d I'm getting a lot of stringing. Teething troubles I know but have work todo and see, to be spending a lot of time getting printer right rather than RND for which I got the machine for. Moan over. Thanks for the reply.

Hi now I have my Olson Block Running I installed the Feeder Design from iRobert(very Nice) but seem to be having a problem, this being its slipping and grinding a notch into the PLA I am using the 37mm Yoke I was going to swap this for the 38m version I am heading in the right way what is the Norm? imm also going to be loading some Brass fill and Flexi PLA soon. Any advise greatly appreciated.

Yeh I noticed Im printing hotter now also I changed the Feeder to iRoberts but got prelims with it

I know there is a thread on this already BUT I want to make a Pastry cutter and then throw it away, would this be safe to use PLA..

an Update I received my new Unit (thank you swordriff) and it is now working the temp sensor fitted better in the replacement units as did the heater. Indeed my old unit was faulty.

Hi I was at the TCT show and missed the Einscan have you had your hands on these yet problem I see is its Chinese and sooner or later they cut corners, my opinion? But the David I have not seen have you a link? I ordered a Fuel3D scanner last year but cancelled it at last min, I had read some revues on the forum so thought leave it for now, but I am keen todo some scanning.

Hi swordriff thank you for your response, On the last strip down last night there was no damage to Teflon or the i2K or the steel coupler, but as stated the pt100 will not come out, I have had heated the block tried pushing it and pulling it I'm afraid it will break. I am on Vacation from tomorrow so no doubt will have the replacement parts by next week end, so will try and fit them then, Hopefully without incident I will throw the corneal spacer I made. Thank you for your reply and sorry for the persistence.

Just managed to get the video on to my iPad where the resolution is much better. Will try today to get a better video. Will also email supplier and send him my video. For his opinion.

Ultiarjan Thanks for reply I tightened the nozzle at 200d with torqu let it cooled the re heated and tightened again with the toque devise. I am going to try and get a better video tomorrow it is hard to get a decent vid. Thanks Bob