bob-hepple

still working on pausing the programme software is not helping to edit the Gcode and place M0 as Simplify 3d say I should

Hi All I have another thread on going on at moment http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9557-incorporating-your-own-supports-in-your-design/ place a nut in the middle of a print and print on top of it. which I think sound cool BUT I spoke to Sim3D today, I asked how I would go about stopping the code inserting the nut at a given point then continuing. The procedure was slice the model and at the point where I wanted to edit it take note of the line save the code and edit it and put M0 in that line. Sounds ok but im confused, they also said dont move the head but I need to move the head to get to the print. The g code is not numbered as in my "MIL Software Codes G Code" so finding line 652 is not a problem bt finding line 652 without numbers is. (any thoughts) Also instead of putting an arbutry M0 on a line at a given point wouldnt the use of the script, in the software make more sense. I already Have start code. End code. There is Tool change and layer change could these not be used to controll the pause of the machine while I place the nut in place. Any help Appreciated as always

Wow I like that idear I am using simply 3d printing at two resolutions will work out how to pause the programme at a given point of the print and insert the nut. Thanks for the advise Brill.

I personlly wouldn't heat up Acetone directly on the machine . Personal preference and all that. I'd like to to do it away from the machine.. I have also seen a dedicated Vapour Machine http://www.sky-tech.com.tw/sky-tech/en/box4.html they also do 3d Printers with dual heads Looked at them in 3d London show 2014, looked fine but suspect shortcuts.

Thanks for the advise I will increase the gap from ).01 to 0.02 and increase 0.4 to 0.5 and reduce the amount I have in by 50%. pm_dude the reason for the supports is I can see a problem inserting the Nut if any of it sags so as a a Test/Learning point thought of adding supports.. I am not using Cura Thanks for all the advise..

Question to the community I have been Drawing up a "Lock Nut" thats what I call it. in the middle there is a cut out for a hex Nut. I wanted to print this out and because there is a overhang decided to try and make my own supports. They are offset from the face by 0.01 they are 0.40 wide 4.5mm high by 18mm long I expect the crucial bits 's are the offset from face which is 0.01 and the width which is 0.40 see below in blue I started this as a learning curve for 3D Printing and CAD Advise appreciated

Well Niavity really at the London show you had Chinese companies with dual heads on display and now other companies advising. the fact that the um2 has been modified to take another real and space for 2nd extruder all pointed to dual now that there are other mnf advertising dual head I naturally thought it would be a progression I was obviously Wrong. From a novice like me the weak link in printing is the supports and with PVA I thought the gap was closed. Again a novice opinion but still disappointed and still looking at other machines BUT NOT Chinese.

Fair to say Im Disappointed i thought there would be a new printer, thought it would have been the 2 PRO or something, but a mini and a extender is not where i thought it would have gone, does that mean a new 3 wont even happen this year??.

Thanks all for the suggestions it is as I thought more involved than I want to spend at moment, Soldering and all that is not a problem, but when there are other Projects on the go, times limited. I have tried the remotes option but when they go Faulty they go off so keep away from them with mills, computers ect. At moment I use external switch on the AC side at power block. Thanks for the suggestions though as always appreciated.

Hi I am A Wheelchair user and want to Re-Locate the power button to the Printer, can anyone tell me if this is possible EASILY in this day and Age UM and Apple have one thing in common other than White, They seem to think its better to put Power button at the back of the machine for some stupid reason.

i Robert thaks for the reply I was struggling thought you would od used a pitch which by the way is very close to a BSW thread but thought Nahh you wouldn't but a learning curve is good ??? have traced your pitch and hope it works just wanted to keep all the parts I print std. Love your design it makes up really well. I will be doing the feeder Mech next. Thanks Bob

Hi I am Printing iRoberts Low Friction Spool Holder and want to extend the main Screw think it was called 608 cor2 can anyone tell me what the Thread was, having enough trouble drawing it working out his pitch is a B****h soryy very frustrating at the moment. And yes I could draw one from scrath but I wanted to keep Continuity.. Any help Appreciated

Happy New Year To All I have been trying to devise a bracket and came up with this as you can see it takes up most of the bed I want to get the print time down so I set the infill percentage to 10% and the layer height down to .30 the head is .40 could I go to.40 layer height or would the adhesion between layers not work. I am trying to get the print down to as quick as possible but with some strength, I put solid layers through aswell but print time went up from just under 4hr to over 5 i am using pla any thoughts

Wow What a lively discusion, I Love it.. For someone who knows not a lot about 3d Printing, and I don't class myself as an idiot, but someone who has a steep learning curve to climb, Cura has helped me and others I suspect to start the climb. I would rather have a forum like the UM forum, than others I belong too. I can honestly say I have learnt a lot in the months I have been a member, and where there are problems with software and the Um2 printer I know they will be sorted, and looking at other printers ? and software I still would rather be in the camp I'm inn. The wealth of knowledge and the ability to help when you need it has been the best experience. Thank You!!.

Wow I like it look smooth. love the Map hears my start up script for what it's worth G28 ; Home all axes G1 F1800 X20 Y20 Z20 ; Bring extruder to the front slowly G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length G1 F150 E30 ; purge nozzle with 30mm of filament G1 F1800 X25 Y25 Z10 G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again G1 F255 E0.25 ; purge the extruded length 0.25mm One thing I notice on the UM2 when you first switch your machine on I have to start a print job. Then I cancel it. Then re start a print job. something todo with the table not going up to position ?? Homing

Yes I agree Cura I think from a newcomer is better on retraction and gives a better finish BUT cura holds you back in certain ways and the ability to change layer height at different stages is good along with supports where you want them is also very good I would agree that the support from S3d is not brilliant in my case I also think for the money it is not waisted at all. Without it I would not have managed to finish a project which cura was unable todo. I think there's a place for both of these in my world. Just wish I could use S3d better

yes I play usually with getting as little retraction as possible and print slowly on the outer layer. with coasting set at 2.7 did you notice any gaps at the end of the run. I have not used the wipe function yet I set the retraction to about 2300 and 5.0mm but still get oozing I also print quiet cool with PLA at about 185. My next print job I will need to print supports and have been experimenting with the function of applying them. User Defined. On my last print I printed in 3 sections which is the best feature of S3d. had a few problems doing so when it went from one section to the other it deposited some pla at each start point which damaged the look of the print.. I think this was coming from the .25 prime I had set in the beginning script. but the beginning script is a bit off I would of liked S3d to behave more like Cura instead I find it a bit of good luck when it primes and then starts to print.

I Really like s3d but cannot get a good finish with it Curra gives a better surface finish, but limited with supports I have tried some of the setting wipe is one that I haven't tried yet but coasting put gaps in my print ratio I set at 1.0 but I like s3d and it reduces print time just wish I could use it better. what setting are you using for wipe and coasting

I would like option too http://www.ioncoretechnology.com I have looked at this machine there are a few other makes as well

Hi I assumed there would be accuracy with this technology and there isn't Or not according to my sample, I looked at this machine as an alternative to FDM based machine's my object that I am designing is very specific and I suppose needs supports to get the outside profile correct BUT at the moment technology is nearly there and the um2 could be there sometime in the future if I am to believe the hype in a word dissolvable. With supports the print time is 12 hr the print time with the form 1 is 3 you can see why I was tempted.

Hi I have three sections out of a programme from S3d can anyone tell me if there is something a miss. At these stages between sections I get material being placed placed at the start of the layer quiet badly and at layer 14 it is that bad it penetrates through the model and causes a lump ; layer 14, Z = 2.1 M106 S124 T0 ; tool H0.15 W0.48 G0 X101.456 Y87.557 F1800 G0 Z2.1 F1800 G1 E-0.1 F690 G92 E0 G1 X101.972 Y87.035 E0.0083 F1045 G1 X102.684 Y86.501 E0.0183 ; layer 88, Z = 13.2 M106 S124 T0 ; tool H0.15 W0.48 G0 X86.998 Y90.276 F2000 G0 Z13.2 F1800 G1 E-0.1 F690 G92 E0 G1 X87.451 Y89.898 E0.0067 F1472 ; layer 248, Z = 37.2 M106 S0 T0 ; tool H0.15 W0.48 G0 X70.923 Y92.847 F2200 G0 Z37.2 F1800 G1 E-0.1 F690 G92 E0 G1 X71.297 Y92.568 E0.0053 F2070

AT Last a Sample I sent the uk agent my file (the one I can't get right) and I received it today YippYYY well not really the surface finish is excellent and the number of supports is abundant and easily removed the down side is I thought the rest would be hard. is you look at the pic of the UM2 print and the Form Labs side by side it is warped and the internal measurements are seriously out 1.5mm the two post that hold a pump in to situ are warped NO GOOD for me I need mechanical accuracy.. there is a new Kid on the block The Zinter Pro will have a look at that http://www.ioncoretechnology.com/zinter/zinter-pro/ any thoughts

Ok no problem the price remains the same

Hi everyone While I'm new to 3d printing I started off with the original UM gold and I usually print at 180 and get very clean and sharp small parts with a bed temp of 60 no problems on small easily printed parts with no overhangs. Now I used all the gold and purchased Colour Fab white and black pla and started printing at 190 and 200 with fans on full I don't know why I suddenly went from 180 to 190 and up, I think it was because I was told 180 was way to low BUT since I started to print with white and black my surface finishes are not good loads of threads even with fans on full the black just looks like toffee textured (not brown) Are there discrepancies between hardware measuring temps between machines , so on my machine 180 might be 190 on another, I never thought just changing colour would be so drastic.

Yes this is for sale