Labern
-
Posts
2,438 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
35
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by Labern
-
-
There Used To be that warning. Maybe there is a bug so its not displaying it.
Not sure why it would slice sometimes and not others. It maybe a bug also or maybe the print was moved to the side a bit?
-
This Can be turned off in the settings under General, Scale Large Models.
It should Warn you that the size was reduced. Well it used to.
-
How long have you had the Roberts feeder on your print? Check all the parts as they can bend over time from the load the are under. Make sure there is a gap behind the "yoke?" To ensure the spring Dorset is fully on the filament and not the feeder frame.
Your describing the the hotend is all good. No problems with feeder or rods then it doesn't leave many other things except for material.
You can install tinkergnomes firmware and adjust the e steps to get the lines touching but this is a workaround.
-
It could be that you knurled feeder wheel needs cleaning or it could have worn a bit so the little triangles are not as sharp anymore. To test this you could clean it and move it to a new spot on the knurled wheel.
Are you positive it's not on older prints? The lines not touching thing has been an unexplained issue on a lot of new machine prior to UM2+ And I even got a new UM2go that had this issue from day 1 and was never resolved.
I have since upgraded my UM2go to a UM2go+ and it's well worth doing.
I would also use the TFM coupler (or TFT) as it's a lot better then the PTFE.
Changing the axis rods have helped some people. If they are bent in the middle the bed leveling can be good as it's measured in the outer corners can be fine but the middle distance can be greater.
-
Hi,
Why you want to merge 3 parts?
The UM3 can print in 2 different colors/materials.
You can try to merge 2 parts in an other 3D program...
You can merge lots of parts and mix the 2 colored materials to make other colors.
designed the 3 parts using OnShape, and downloaded them as separate STL files.Did you draw them in the same part file or separate? Are the parts designed in the correct position to the origin in Onshape?
-
1
-
-
I normally set it and paper test on the first step so I end up doing the paper test twice. As when you make adjustments on one point it effects the other measurement points.
-
2
-
-
No I don't think it has any importance. Just to make sure it's not so badly out that it will crash when doing the paper routine.
So a visual check to make sure it's flat enough to do the paper test.
-
If you print dual color the nozzle dips right into the pla after priming... strange behaviour. Was not in 2.3.1.
Ruins every print right from the start
Printing speed is not better than in 2.3.1 (as mentioned in the release notes). It tooks longer now with same settings... dont know why.
I have the same problems.
Extruder 2 will prime, move backwards, retracts and print but extruder 1 will prime, move backwards, retract, move forwards which picks up the prime poo and goes to print dragging the poo directly into you print.
-
Can you show a picture in CURA in layer view with the lattice? Or is that 2 sensitive?
What is the tubes thickness?
What is the lattices width?
What software was used to model the design?
-
if your model is all good then you don't need any. Sometimes they can prevent things that you want.
If layer view shows everything is ok then you don't need to turn them off.
So did you make changes to correct any issues or does it look fine in layer view but your prints are not good?
-
When was the last time you changed you PTFE coupler?
Or are you using TFM or TFT coupler?
-
Try spiralize. it will continuously go around and around.
In CURA 2.4 you can also try retract on layer change and you make retractions really fast.
-
1
-
-
There are now 0.4mm Stainless Steel Nozzles.
Are you sure they are Stainless Steel and not Chrome plated Brass Nozzles?
-
Do you have the Olsson block or the Matchless V3 like your title shows?
Also why are you using a stainless steel nozzle for PLA? Stainless steel nozzles have bad heat transfer and are not suited for PLA.
They are not even good for abrasive materials. E3D Hardened nozzle and the Ruby nozzle are a lot better.
If you have a UM2 then I would recommend upgrading the heater. The UM2 has a 25w heater and UM2+ has a 35w heater.
If you want to print with the big nozzles like 2mm then I would get the 40w.
-
Make sure you check layer view first before any print so you can detect some of these problems. You can even go into CURA setings and have it show one layer at a time to see the missing outer walls.
Look at this after every change you make to try and resolve it. I normally leave it in layer view in the problem area and make changes till you see its corrected.
I would first check Xray mode to see if any errors in the model and rule that out as an issue.
You may need to turn off all of the mesh fix options if your model looks good.
The retract count thing can be a double edge sword. You can have heaps and heaps of retractions without grinding if the speed is low.
but to remove the vertical string your getting you need the retractions fast. I had same issue recently and set it to 45mm/s
Cura 2.4 has Z-hop set quite high which is good for some things but i think you can get away with 0.4 or even turn it off.
To also reduce stringing you may need to drop your temp 5 to 10 deg.
Enabling coasting is also another method but not something i presonall have experimented with.
-
1
-
-
I guess I void warranty on everything I buy with the first few weeks but that's the nature of a maker isn't it?
So I don't normally worry about them and how long they are etc. it's just one of those grey areas for both parties.
-
I use FreeCAD
you can find the instructions on how to create a solid model Here then export it to STEP.
-
I had 2.4b installed and when installing 2.4 it asks to uninstall the previous version. Which I clicked yes and it uninstalls it and installs 2.4
Seeing the app data folder never gets removed all your previous settings are transferred to the new version.
-
1
-
-
Also. Are you actually using a 0.25mm nozzle?
-
Maybe you originally had the layer height at 0.2mm not 0.02mm?
Also like I said, 15mm/s print speed is very slow. This could be 30mm/s or 50mm/s
-
I have personally not had issues with it and I am glad its their or I would have made changes and forgot to re-slice.
But I am a forgetful person and understand that it could be really annoying to others.
Yes Its simple for them to do and lots of people want it but it has been a dictatorship on this for years so i dont think it will change.
Maybe this time round they might listen
-
This argument yet again. you may want to search this topic on the forum and be prepared to read pages and pages.
Short answer, This wont happen.
There has been plug-ins to do this on pre CURA 2.xx
It should not cause any delays by changing settings as it will just re-slice but you dont need to wait for it to finish before changing another setting. Just keep changing all your settings.
If you do get lag and cant continue to adjust settings then there is an issue that needs reporting for the software team to investigate.
-
OK, I would suggest a few things. Why are you printing on a Raft? this is not normally needed especially for your item.
Also it is very difficult to make a good quality print at 0.02mm layer height. Trust me I know. You would be better to print with 0.06mm layer height and it will come out looking better then you first picture.
You have spiralize the outer contour turned on. Turn this off.
Also 15mm/s print speed is very slow. Not sure what material you are using because you still didn't mention but it can easily over heat at that speed and such low layer height. You can reduce the temp really low but this will cause to much curling of the edges. I would suggest 30mm/s print speed
-
I normally give it a quick dunk in warm water the peel off the bulk and then let it soak overnight.
Moving water helps a lot and using one of these is meant to speed things up a lot as it warms the water and keeps it moving.
-
1
-
Baffled by Brim as a Default Setting
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Yeah Brim sucks on the most part but I guess the simple profiles are for new users.
Seeing first layer adheasion is one of the biggest issues heince the auto bed leveling. Then making sure people who make their first prints have no issues is probably their main objective. It's the whole "just press print and it will magically work perfectly" goal that manufactures have.
I think in this case it could be on by default while in simple mode but turned off by default in custom mode.
Or even have a note packed in with the glass saying "don't get your greasy mits all over me" and a few tips on how to make sure it's all going to work.
I do find it a bit annoying that it's on by default in custom mode and always turn it off. It has caught me out a few times but that's why there is a feature to create your own profiles.