Labern
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Posts posted by Labern
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Odd.
I downloaded all of the printers step files via the master zip files and have imported all of them into Onshape without any errors.
I have also loaded the DXF's as I laser cut a mini UMO.
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Did you download the master zip file?
I have been able to use them in Onshape just fine
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Hi @nzo
Where in NZ are you?
There are lots of 2 85mm filament in NZ. Yes the local stationary warehouse stock 1.75 but Diamond age which has very good quality filament.
Mind kits also stocks 2.85mm and there are a few others.
I also import some like colorfabb at a good price per roll if you order the right amount.
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The .Json files are all different for each printer and some have defines that others dont. you can copy paste some information from one to another to create your own but not everything works so its a bit of trial and error (well it was in my case making a UM2go+ Json)
Here is the UM2 defines for start end code.
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IF using UltiFlavor then it will use the Start end Code set in the printer's firmware. but if you select any other flavor like rerap then it will use these defines.
The start end code in cura will be if you want to add something into the start or end code that's either not in the firmware or in one of the defines.
So I haven't tried but I guess if you remove the parts of the start and end code in the json file then you can add them in cura's machine settings.
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The M104 maybe there for dual extruder machines.
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I don't know. Have you tried editing the gcode file and removing M104 to see what happens?
You need to edit the .json file to stop it from adding both start codes.
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Try the official release of 2.6 which is now available.
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Yes you can change the start gcode. You can do this in the machine settings In CURA.
The reason it heats the bed then the nozzle is to reduce the amount of oozing from the nozzle as it takes a long time for the bed to heat up. The oozing creates a cavity in the nozzle which requires more priming.
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what cura version are you using?
Yes, you can change all those speeds.
You need to go to custom settings. if you hover the mouse next to the speed menu you will see a little gear. Clicking on that will give you a list of all the setting which can be made visible. Select the ones you want then you can adjust any individual speed you want.
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Acceleration and deceleration will have different slippage percentage compared to constant feeding an this percentage will change depending on the pressure required to push through the nozzle. Temperature will change the viscosity and could minutely have an effect also.
Our production lines that use plastic film we had driven unwind and dancer rollers that control a potentiometer. You can then drive the film off the roll at a constant tension to give a constant micro-slip throughout the machine. This way a new roll of film gives the same results as a nearly used one.
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Micro slips are very common in the production environment. @tomnagel is correct. There are mechanical influences but there is always some sort of slip between the material and the drive wheel and lots of things effect this slippage.
Also it's not about the diameter as the circumference traveled is still the same.
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I persona don't have issues with my UM3 feeders so for me it would be a waste
But if your having issues then it maybe worth it.
But like @lrodriguez has shown. There are cheaper options that could give the same result.
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Thanks for the input. I never really liked how thin they were. If I get time (maybe next week) I will make the suggested changes. Thanks
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How many print hours has your UM2 done? You may find the PTFE coupler needs changing. You can replace this with the TFM or TFT coupler that is used in the UM2+ which lasts much longer. Even replacing the spring with the alloy spacer or printed spacer will help.
You can alter the temp on the printer as its running in the tune menu. You need to wait a while after adjusting to allow everything to stabilise.
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What printer are you using and what material?
The first layer is printed typically slower and at a higher layer height them the preceding layers. So you may need to alter your speed or adjust the temp.
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The belts can also start to squeak. Which is really annoying. :angry:
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@nallath what is the best way to share plugins that we have created?
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Any moving part will wear over time but with regular maintenance like cleaning, Oiling, Greasing etc. you will prolong their use.
The Main consumable parts are nozzles and TFM coupler.
You can get replacement TFM or TFT couplers from different manufacturers and these can now last 1000s of print hours compared to the old UM2 setup which could only last 1 spool.
The belts do wear and stretch over time. Mine lasted 2 years and now require replacement but this depends on how often you print. You can print new spacers to help align these to help stop any side wear on these.
There are lots of manuals and guides with advice on how to do the maintenance so dont be put off by it.
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This Can be caused by a few different things.
Leaking from the top of the Olsson block where the steel nut threads on.
Leaking from the nozzle threads.
Print coming off build plate or something wrong while printing forcing melted plastic upwards.
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Thats the whole idea of auto leveling to correct your adjustments. During auto leveling it measures the bed position and adjusts for that. So if you keep manually changing it then it will keep adjusting.
If one area is still to close after auto leveling then I would check to see if you glass plate is flat. You might find it's bent which will cause your issue.
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I would have to change the spring ?
Bought my UM3 on 26 november 2016
No, you don't have to. It will work fine with the current one.
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What printer are you referring to?
The springs in the UM2 and UM2+ family have all 3 springs the same but the UM3 has 2 stuff springs in the front and a light one in the back.
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You can install a heat bed on these. You can buy the kit from the Gr5 Store.
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Yes, the Original UM2 head does print a bit better than the OB. it's just less convenient in the respect of changing nozzles.
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What upgrades for a newbie?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
I would definitely get the extrusion upgrade kit. It addresses all the problems areas that the UM2 had and gives you the ability to swap out the nozzles to print CF and so you can use different sizes for different applications.