Labern
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Posts posted by Labern
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Woodfill is best printed with 0.6mm nozzles or larger. If printed with 0.4 nozzle then I recommend layer heights of 0.2 and fastish speed to keep it consistently flowing.
If you have more issues then maybe best to start a new topic for tips on printing with woodfill
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Yeah I have but it doesn't work as well as Chloroform
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Hmm going by that list I'm missing quite a few badges.
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Yes acetone works on colorfabb PLA/PHA but this will leave white residue on the print after it fully dries.
Chloroform on PLA won't crack it or harm it to much. It does soften the outer layer a bit but this hardens after a few hours
If he would vapor treat abs he would have to fly it down as it's very tall to give and even treatment but lying it down will mark the side.
XT is very clear but has the tendency to leave brown spots. I would recommend it on long prints if you want it in this case.
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0.1 layers are pretty smooth so I don't think you will need any treatment.
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If printing on glass bed then The bottom of the print has the best finish. Shiny and smooth.
I vapor smooth in a glass jar but a tall item like this may give inconsistent results as more vapor will sit at the base and not reach the top of the print. Maybe wiping chloroform on it with a lint free white rag. Just keep sniffing to a minimum
You could use XTC-3D smooth-on coating which will make it more like glass.
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Acetone gives PLA a white powdery stuff randomly over it.
Acetone works better on ABS. And chloroform works best on PLA.
1.5 lip would be heaps.
Sorry I don't understand what you mean by "Mar the top"?
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I maybe missing something here but If only one end is sealed then print it upsidedown with the sealed end at the bottom.
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The matte surface which in this case is not as bright as shiny alloy and provides a slight increase of surface area, it still absorbs heat well but allows it to loose the heat better.
This is why most heat sinks are anodized. Although black would be better at releasing the heat.
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Good thing about anodized aluminum is that it's not electrically conductive so there is not much risk when attaching electronics to it.
It's also a cheap process which you can sometimes get done for free if you ask youre local anodizer nicely.
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Unless it's Hard anodized aluminum which is very resistant to wear.
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If it's an UM2 (not UM2+) with the old PTFE coupler then I would definitely change it. I would make sure that you replace it with the new one in the UM2+ as they last a lot longer. You could also print a spacer to replace the spring as the spring presses to much over time and deforms the end of the coupler.
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When you changed the nozzle did you also change the PTFE coupler?
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It would be quite difficult to do that without effecting the solder joins next to it.
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You can buy and Olsson block kit which provides a new heater block for the nozzles to screw into and some nozzles of different sizes. I would also advise to replace the temp sensor at the same time as it is usually stuck in the old heater block.
Alternatively you can buy the UM2+ upgrade kit.
I would contact you're Ultimaker re-seller to see if they have them or you can get the from 3dsolex or one of their re-sellers.
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The type of connection is on the fan file on github.
You can order the parts on the line.
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Also doesn't work in safari, you also need a magnifying glass to read the text as the text in the text box is so tiny.
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The text box on my iPad with chrome doesn't have the tool bar for things like smileys and adding pictures or URL etc.
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In my dreams they are free
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It's not available yet but will be added in a future firmware release.
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I'm not surprised Zortrax discount their printers as they are not worth buying in the first place.
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It would be so easy for UM to sell and upgrade kit to do just that. Seeing they already have the gear, it's just a matter of having a enclosure that screws into the raspberry pi screw holes in the base on the UM2's and new firmware etc.
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That's cool. I have an old UM2 upgraded to a plus so I have the feeder holes. So a mirrored feeder would be perfect.
UM2+ fan shroud vs Labern's fan shroud?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Kapton tape is an insulator while copper tape will absorb heat therefore will warp faster.
Warping can happen and that's why it helps to print it in the highest temp filament you can get your hands on.
As said, no infill required