Labern
-
Posts
2,438 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
35
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by Labern
-
-
If it's still within the warranty period I would ask my reseller about it and it may be covered. Although you reseller might not list the part on the website they still may have it on hand or they will get one for you. You can get the part number from the github if you need to.
Most of the time this is due to the linear bearings being faulty. you may want to check those also.
-
2
-
-
Awesome. Good to see your enjoying it. It does look so tiny next to that spool.
-
1
-
-
This was printed with CURA 15.?? And a lot has changed since then which should make it a lot easier.
You have to think in terms of mm3/s filament flow though you hot end.
A standard 0.4 nozzle x 0.1 layer height x 30mm/s = 1.2mm3/s can be printed at 195deg with excellent results.
So a 0.25mm nozzle x 0.04 layer height x 30mm/s = 0.3mm3/s a big difference from the above.
This shows the filament is moving a lot slower though the hot end. This means at your standard temps it has more time to absorb the heat , become less viscous and build less pressure in your nozzle. (Your print will be too hot) so this means you can reduce the temp heaps.
I don't have a set profile and adjust per model depending on the design as if I'm using the smaller nozzles means I want top quality.
I see...
Originally I was working on layer height in 1/2 of nozzle width at:
0.25 nozzle / 2 = 0.125mm layer height
I do this on 40% flow-rate and 20mm/s.
I didnt know it is possible to get down to 0.04 layer height
So you think it's good idea if i start printing from this:
0.25mm nozzle x 0.04 layer height x 30mm/s = 0.3mm3/s
then gradually adjust the temperature to get a good print is a good start?
You also mentioned that the temperature is too high becuz the material is moving slower. Do you think flow-rate will be affecting this factor? Or do you print it in 100% flow-rate?
Please dont mind me asking, I am using a 3DSolex nozzle, the print core is easily clogged and it never succeed in unloading filament(filament sticking too hard to the print-core), you think what will be the main cause for this? I heard a few 3DSolex users also hv similar issue, just want to know if this is a normal behaviour for the product or if it's a user's fault.
sorry for a lot of questions asked here
Never adjust your flow rate. Maybe sometimes increase it by 10% for carbon fiber or something.
Flow rate is auto calculated when you set your speed, layer height and nozzle size. So if you drop it to 40% you are dropping it well below what it should be at.
Yes just play with the temps and as Gr5 says only go low as 175deg. If you need to go lower you have to put M302 in the start gcode which is "allow cold extrudes"
I have printed at 155deg before but you will never need to go that low.
I also had bad experiences with the 3Dsolex core and gave up. I only need small nozzles for single extrusion so just use my UM2+ but I am planning of testing the 3Dsolex core again sometime soon.
-
This was printed with CURA 15.?? And a lot has changed since then which should make it a lot easier.
You have to think in terms of mm3/s filament flow though you hot end.
A standard 0.4 nozzle x 0.1 layer height x 30mm/s = 1.2mm3/s can be printed at 195deg with excellent results.
So a 0.25mm nozzle x 0.04 layer height x 30mm/s = 0.3mm3/s a big difference from the above.
This shows the filament is moving a lot slower though the hot end. This means at your standard temps it has more time to absorb the heat , become less viscous and build less pressure in your nozzle. (Your print will be too hot) so this means you can reduce the temp heaps.
I don't have a set profile and adjust per model depending on the design as if I'm using the smaller nozzles means I want top quality.
-
I normally get 1 loud click every second with a few quieter ones inbetween depending on print speed of course.
I don't think it's related to your issue though.
-
Generally the z axis only moves when it changes layers. It will go down to the specified layer height then start the next layer.
But when in vase mode the z actually constantly moves downward so you end up with more of spiralling layers. This gives the clicking sound as the z is making tiny movements downward.
-
I'm so sorry to be so long replying!
Thank you for your responses SandervG and Labern. Is there a notification setting when there are replies to my posts?
Labern - I'm in Manukau City, Auckland.
I'm also in Auckland.
Yes the notification settings can be changed if you click your profile picture in the top right of your browser.
-
What printer are you using?
What's your print speed?
Do you hear a constant clicking sound as its printing?
Thanks for your reply.
An Ultimaker 3 Extended.
they were printed at 70 mm/s.
If you mean the filament clicking sound then no. This is a fresh spool of filament and the same problem occurs with other spools. I think it's not the filament.
No the constant clicking I meant is from the z axis when in vase mode.
But yeah, as Gr5 says 70mm/s is quite fast. So lowering your speed can help.
-
I have had a new roll with too much moisture and had to dry it before. I'm not saying it's the same in your case but it can still be an issue.
Are you using default temps and speeds?
-
I have been able to get the moisture out of one roll 3 times but this was not using the oven method.
I actually dried PVA so much that it became really brittle and would break while trying to put it into the feeder.
But yes it can get to a point of no return.
-
Nylon absorbs a lot of water and quite quickly from humidity in the air. This when heated in the nozzle comes out like this oily looking stuff that you have noticed. In dryer climates this moisture takes longer to absorb into the filament compared to high humidity wet climates.
This can happen to me in a matter of days.
You need to dry the material. Keep it in a warm dry place. I seal mine in a container with desiccant to keep it dry. You can also heat it in an oven for 30min to 1 hour to dry it more quickly but don't heat it too much or the spool will deform.
-
This is a well known issue. If you contact your reseller they will replace the block for you.
In the mean time if you still need to use your printer then you can print these to hold it together.
-
1
-
-
What printer are you using?
What's your print speed?
Do you hear a constant clicking sound as its printing?
-
Try updating to 2.6.2
-
Have you contacted your reseller? If the connections are good it's probably best to contact them so they can resolve it for you.
-
It may be best to use a service like 3dHubs. look for one in your area that can 3D model the parts you are after. then they can print them off for you.
Yes, they should be able to hold a child even and adult.
-
It already had start end code when I selected reprap. This works.
Gcode is very easy to learn and I would encourage you to learn it. You can look here for implemented gcodes that UM uses and then you can customize it how you like.
-
UM might not officially support USB printing but there only needs to be one change in the firmware that I can see so far to make this plugin work nicely. So I guess anyone could do it and make a pull request. That may even be me if I get bored on night Shift.
I even might make a set up tutorial as I think this is a nice option for Wi-Fi printing on UM2(+).
@LePaul the reprap start / end gcode does work but could be improved. I was going to try to write one a bit more simular to UM3.
-
And by not enough info I don't mean in CURA but more setting up the raspberry pi. But I'm not expecting anyone at UM to make a full tutorial.
I love the plugin.
Just needs some firmware love for the UM2 when usb printing.
-
@neotko Why do you think I don't know what flavor to use?
I have mine working just fine.
LePaul is asking because there are two versions of reprap to choose from. I said I used reprap marlin.
For people who don't know much about this stuff it is not enough info.
-
You will need to use an aftermarket print core as metal filled filaments are abrasive.
The can be purchased from 3d soles or one of the resellers.
But yes you can use any 2.85mm filament
-
It's not a pop up message. Just shows under one of the text fields I think when entering the API or something. Can't check now, not at computer.
-
Yes it would be nice to have a set up guide.
It was mentioned in 2.6 beta that you don't need to set up Octoprint. All the settings are sent from CURA. I would set it up to auto connect though so you don't need to enter Octoprint to connect it to the printer.
You change the flavor in configure machine in cura.
There are 2 reprap options. I just selected reprap marlin. As I said above it prompts you to change this when entering the Octoprint connection settings in CURA.
-
1
-
-
When you are setting up the Octoprint settings in CURA it prompts you to change the flavor to reprap or it won't work.
Custom firmware - Demo
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Hey @Render did you ever finish this awesome firmware