Labern
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Posts posted by Labern
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Can you share more info?
What software and version are you using?
What Printer?
What print settings?
It looks like you have concentric infill turned on maybe but not sure with the limited amount of information you have provided.
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Is this a UM2?
UM2's have a 25w heater that can cause this problem. That's why the UM2+ came out with a stronger heater. 35w i think.
Seeing that you are printing with PET i would suggest that you lower your fans as PET layer adhesion is not very good and having the fans on 100% is not normally the best idea.
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Thats Great it worked out.
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Does this include switching nozzles as the accumulated time of switching can add up.
If single nozzle then check the acceleration and jerk setting on UM3. As it's a heavier print head these are normally a bit slower then UM2 which can mean that sometimes the head never reaches the stated print speed.
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A form of PET or co polymer should work. Most companies have different names to differentiate them selfs from the rest by putting in additives.
CPE, CPE+, PET, nGen, XT, PETG, and the list goes on.
But with your design, its weakness is in the layer adhesion which is not the strongest way to print an item. You could make those tabs separate that you print lying down and then insert and glue them into your main lid. Or just redesign how the tabs work.
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Meshmixer is free and it great for generating support but CURA now has a lot of options.
Adjusting X/Y distance helps stop support going into tight corners that are difficult to remove.
Increasing the support z distance can help stop it sticking to much and using support interface helps.
Don't print to fast or hot as this will cause it to stick more.
Using small nozzles make a huge difference in how easy it is to remove support. A 0.4mm nozzle at 0.1mm layers has a similar print time of a 0.25mm nozzle at 0.1mm layers if there are no big flat surfaces.
I normally use support grid as it comes off in one piece. But haven't tried all the new types yet.
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Also This guide should help.
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It sounds like you need to take the fan shroud off and clean up all the melted plastic. Just heat up the nozzle to soften the plastic and pull it of. PLA starts to soften at 55deg so slowly raise it till you can start to remove it.
While the nozzle it hot turn the stainless steel round bit the has all the holes in it
Center of this image.
Put an Allen key in the hole and turn it from right to left and till it feels firm. Do not over tighten though or you will shorten the lifespan of the coupler.
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How low did you adjust the temp. You should be able to go down to 190deg at that speed. Although the infill speed may need reducing a little.
Make sure fans are on full.
What bed temp? You may have to lower it a bit and use glue or something. The overhang is close to the heated bed so it can be effected by the rising heat.
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This is probably due to the acceleration and jerk settings which can be so low it will never get to full speed.
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In that case get the UM2+ first.
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Yes the UM2go is still the best. Mine is now a UM2go+
When I need outright quality then it's my go-to machine but I have been a bit more lazy lately with how busy I have been.
The UM3 print head is a lot heavier so it's a bit slower. Most of the issues the weight imposes it compensated by the software. This means using other software other then CURA a little more difficult.
The UM3 print cores are just so much better then the UM2+ print heads.
The whole process from turning on the printer to printing an object is really slow. But it just so much easier and I can be sitting with my laptop watching TV and send a print to the UM3 and it just works.
I use the adhesion sheets and don't needs to worry about problems with the first layer or the prime getting dragged in with the print head.
Don't need to worry about different materials blocking the nozzle or cold pulls.
The only real problems are the firmware and CURA and this will be a case of continuous improvement.
The Next thing is putting Print cores on the UM2's which Arjan has already started doing.
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This is called skirt. You can find it and it's settings under build plate adhesion.
Skirt distance is that 6mm you mentioned and line count is how many times around your object.
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Oh yeah. They still sell those
Well it's a dumb clause anyways.
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All the hotkeys and details about viewing the model (including zooming) can be found here.
If you have multiple objects make sure you select the one you want to zoom to first.
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If this is the case they should show a warning message on the printer when you load filament with no RFID tag. When you manually select material it should say warning you may void warranty or not even allow you to select anything other then their own.
I agree it goes against the open nature of UM and if they want to stick with clauses like this then they need to make some approved manufacturers like colorfabb that don't void warranty.
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Seeing that Filament from other suppliers would only really effect the print core and the print core is not covered by the warranty anyway, then I find it strange the this clause is in there.
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I have a UM2go, UM2+ and UM3.
I use the UM3 the most now.
If I were to start a business then I would want to use the UM3, but... Not in its current state. It's just to early. Once UM release cores with different nozzle sizes, improve CURA, and firmware a bit more then it would be the best choice.
But if you got one now and learnt how it all works and slowly built your business then UM might have things up to a point where it would be good.
I agree that speed doesn't mean much, 3D printing is a slow process for a single nozzle simple print and 3 times slower for a complex dual nozzle print.
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I think its best to use a 3D printer before starting a business to understand the limitations.
You also may want to look at both companies history and some news articles which may help you decide which is a better way to go
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Its a bit tricky but you can do it in cura.
What you need to do is add a piece in your design as a separate mesh where you don't want the infill.
Import both models into cura and select the model for the support replacement. Then select per object settings. Select: Wall thickness, top/bottom thickness and infill. Set all of those to 0.
Merge both models and you will now have no support in that area.
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Here is a US supplier for UM parts.
There are also other dodgy Chinese ones all over the internet.
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It's really easy to change out.
I would recommend,
Unscrew the faulty limit switch.
Lay the printer on its side.
remove the bottom electronics cover.
Gently pull and push on the faulty limit switch cable while looking at the electronics board to determine what wires / plug lead to the faulty switch.
Unplug it and tape the new switch to the plug of the faulty switch.
Gently pull out the old switch while feeding in the new one.
Un-tape and screw in new switch and plug into main board.
Put cover back on and stand up printer.
Test by homing axis by hand and making sure it clicks (you may need to bend the tab a bit) the in maintenance menu on printer home all axis.
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You could try changing the line width ( or nozzle diameter )
A 0.4mm nozzle can print lines larger than 0.4mm and smaller eg 0.3mm
Don't adjust the flow as it doesn't adjust the spacing between the lines but manipulating the nozzle size in Cura does.
ERO3 when printing PETG
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted · Edited by Guest
Try 20 to 50% fans
The lower the better. A cube I would print with no fans.