Labern
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Posts posted by Labern
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I would also just want a kit to plug in and go.
It would be good if it would power off the main board as I don't want to have to plug more stuff in the wall.
Has to have camera.
Send file from Cura and print just like um3 does and be able to turn computer off.
App for mobile for remote viewing. I want to be able to view it from outside my home network and pause of cancel if something goes wrong.
Message phone when print is done.
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Just so you know. 3D solex has been selling 0.15 and 0.1mm nozzles for quite some time
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Use spiralize outer contour. This will make it so there are no travel moves and it will just go around the outer edge.
You have really bad stringing from travel moves that either are not retracting, travel speed to slow, or you are printing really hot.
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I am using abs support with abs print.
Not interested in buying hips.
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I am quite new to printing with abs and I'm trying to print my first model that requires support.
Using the default Cura abs profile which prints at 0.1 layer height with a million different speeds settings at 230degees. Printing with UM3 and new white and that has the RFID tag thingy.
I covered the front of the printer and put a box over the top to keep it nice and toasty.
Grid support turned on.
So the problem is one area of the part should be printed onto the support but it's not sticking at all to it at all and is just curling up.
Any tips on getting this to work.
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I would just try drawing on filament first and printing with it.
I think makers tend to change colour when heated. This may depend on type.
Also you will find that if one ink drys on the Filament then another is applied, the solvent in the second colour may wipe off the previous colour onto the tip of the second pen. If that makes sense?? As the case when you accidentally write on a white board with a maker pen you can remove it with writing over it with the same maker pen.
But this may not be the case if the filament can absorb the ink.
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Loosening the pulley should make the teeth the same if one side is loose and the other tight as when it rotates it creates more teeth on one side and reduces them on the other.
It would be wise to check the axis are square after this so you don't get parallelograms
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In the white block the attached the shaft to the belt, there is a spring tensioner. If you loosen one of the pulleys it should allow it to pull the belt tight again. Then retighten the pulley.
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Those only help if it's doing travel moves without actually retracting.
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UM2+ - 250mm/s
UM2go+ - 300mm/s
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I haven't really had this issue. Maybe you could increase travel speed.
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So it's not that then.
Was your nozzle clean before you started the print?
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Is it possible to read how many hours were used used in a core? So it could be easy to track which one is the most used?
I wrote the spec for what data is stored inside the core EEPROM. It can save material consumed & time heated (Time spent above (60? Not sure what number we ended up using).
The data I got was that a printcore should survive 6 hours of printing a day for 2 years. It could be that this number changed, as that is rather old info (year old or so?)
6 hours every day for 2 whole years? That's 4380 hours of printing! Impressive!
And 2 years later there will probably already be an Ultimaker 5+ or something, so a lot of people would've already moved on by then......
History would tell another story.
I think we will still be using UM3's with maybe a +
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What size nozzle are you using.
I found they normally happen when printing too cold or with a large nozzle
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Is it just me or does it look like the UM3 has addressed the zebra stripes issue?
Nope. Not yet. It's explained a bit more in this UM3 thread
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/23401-inside-the-ultimaker-3-day-4-electronics
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If you are wanting a high quality (high poly count) model then just select Fine. This is what I always use.
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The power supplies are the same, just in case you do need to try out another one.
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Which Cura version are you using?
In 2.3 advanced settings you can enable more infill controls.
You can then select outer walls before infill. This will solve this issue. There are also other infill pattens that may help.
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Too many things to read, not enough time
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You can buy different spray cans to get this finish.
Search:
Hammertone Paint
Aged Iron Spray Paint
Stone Spray Paint
Or you could do what cloakfiend does and metal plate the plastic
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Its actually best to do a google site search.
But the one on the website you just click on the magnifying glass in the top right corner.
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I think it does depend on how old your printer is as I'm sure it's only on newer printers.
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Hey guys! So just to make sure I understood correctly. To change/turn off the LEDs I add the M142 RxxxGxxxBxxxTx code after the header (not in it).
Changing the color only works on UM3 as other UM's only have single color LEDs.
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My web shop
But 3D solex or any of his reseller's have them.
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A different multi-extrusion approach - UM tool / printhead changer
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Don't you actually need the UM3 mirrored feeder?