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tinkergnome

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Posts posted by tinkergnome

    Setting up a custom made printer

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    7 hours ago, DeanS said:

    I don't see any json files for my installed printer just some cfg files in the user\roming\cura folder. Where would I find the file to modify for a custom printer. 

    Thanks

     

    I would consider the "custom printer" only as a temporary solution.
    (I'm just saying...)


    The Cura developer wiki provides some instructions how to do it "the right way".

     

    https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki/Adding-new-machine-profiles-to-Cura

     

    Ultimaker 2 Pro won't print solid

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    1 hour ago, jhnk said:

    The material is plastic?

     

    🤣🤣

    It's crucial that the printer is configured for the exact material type that you feed into it.

     

    The UM2go is meant to be an "PLA only" printer (AFAIK) - but it has to have the correct diameter (2.85mm) as well.

    Your pictures look like you either used the wrong material type (anything different from PLA) or the wrong material diameter.

    If unsure - show a picture of the material spool. Doesn't it have any label on it?

     

    In short: the first thing to check is if the material settings on the printer are matching the used material.
    Once this is confirmed - we can work out about maintenance, consumables and repair....

     

     

    ER34 At End of Spool - More $$$ Lost

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    8 hours ago, CTotten said:

     I would be interested to see what the temperatures are supposed to be, atleast for the UM materials.

     

    Material files are in the Cura program folder and on GitHub. That's the easiest way to confirm the parameters. If one is a bit "nerdy" one can even check the history.

     

    https://github.com/Ultimaker/fdm_materials

    Search for "break temperature" in the appropriate xml-file.


    PLA uses 60C, Nylon 145.
    For CPE it was recently increased from 70C to 75C (in Nov.  2019).

     

    • Thanks 1

    Bed position

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    3 hours ago, DeanS said:

    The coordinate symbol is in the lower left but it shows X0,Y0 to be in the center when moving a part on the screen.

     

    Cura places (the center of) the loaded object usually in the center of the buildplate. If you move it, it shows the relative distance to the center.
    There is no relation to the coordinate system of the printer in any way.

    In short: that's normal.

    How do I load a new material from Cura into a UM3?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    4 minutes ago, Dim3nsioneer said:

    The material is still linked to its origin material and therefore has the same UUID.


    ...and the generic "HIPS" material is explicitly excluded in the UM3 definition (for whatever reason).

    Maybe this plays a role in this case?

     

    https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/blob/master/resources/definitions/ultimaker3.def.json#L16

     

    BTW: It's perhaps worth to get to the bottom of this exclusion setting - is HIPS abrasive or such?

    Better safe than sorry...

     

    • Like 1

    UM2 power switch specifications for remote position

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

     

    45 minutes ago, rotorhead said:

    I'm trying to work out what components could potentially fail and therefore where the emergency power-off relay should go.

     

    Well... a power supply can fail as well (and catch fire). The really big capacitors are in the power supply. If you don't cut the mains voltage in an emergency case, it will always be only half of the solution.

    (just my 2ct.)

     

    Simplify3d Ultimaker S5

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    I have the impression, this (old) Simplify3D thread was slowly hijacked meanwhile and turned into "just leave your complain here"... but now it's too late... 😏

     

    I'm not entirely sure if the motion controller is still driven by Marlin, it's just an assumption from the early UM3 days.

    But if this is the case: The Marlin source code is available on request, that's part of the used license after all.

     

    @SandervG may correct me... i think the fastest way is to submit a request on the support page. Your reseller should be able to request it for you as well.

    Of course only valid, if open source Marlin is still used.

     

    But - t.b.h. - the Marlin part is by far the least interesting part of this firmware. It's severely stripped down AFAIK and degraded to a dumb motion controller. There's not much to learn from the sources. Very few of the hard-coded values are used (if at all).

    The Linux system is where things are buzzing... The printers configuration consists of a bunch of json-files nowadays - it's much more complex than in former days... every progress has its price. 🙂

     

    But YMMV - just out of curiosity: what would you like to change in Marlin?

    But perhaps it's better to start a new topic for deep digging in firmware modifications...🧐

     

    Simplify3d Ultimaker S5

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    6 minutes ago, tabiznet said:

    Quoting an earlier post about this by neotko
    "Yea your reseller did lie. They are ‘open’ up to a point but they don’t share, for example, the firmware build or how disable the firmware key (to easily build your own firmware)

     

    Well - to our luck is the quoted part "insanely inaccurate" to say the least...


    There's no 'key" or any kind of encryption - what he was complaining about was: the firmware updates are "signed" by Ultimaker with a certificate.
    The latter is IMHO a good and necessary thing for binary files that the printer receives via its internet connection (and the signing is hardly related to this topic).

    It means that nobody can plant an unsigned firmware on the printer with a man-in-the-middle attack. Oh-well - is this really a bad thing? 🤷‍♂️

    You have physical access to the printer, so who cares?

     

    OK, the "Digital Factory" / "Cloud" stuff is not Open Source - but that's what the API is good for.

    The Marlin part is Open Source software and the Linux part is accessible in developer mode and open as well.

    Not much that holds you back from developing your own firmware - or to modify the active leveling procedure (e.g.).

     

    I've modified an UM3 in the past, because i don't like the print core illumination and the loud 'beep' of the button. Was pretty easy. Just take the time and have a look (in developer mode) - it will be worth it.

    Ultimaker kindly provides recovery images, just in case something is screwed up. 🙂

     

    For some more insights from the firmware developers use the search term "Inside the Ultimaker 3". It's a few years old, but the principles are still valid. There are 6 articles (though the links  between them are broken since the forum software was updated...)

     

     

    • Like 3

    Simplify3d Ultimaker S5

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    2 hours ago, tabiznet said:

    But you dont give us access to the most important features, like being able to compile and load our own firmware.

     

    Wait a second... just out of curiosity (i don't own a S5):

    Why not? One can develop and install a different firmware at any time, the hardware is not "locked" as far as i know.

     

    There's even a special developer mode which makes it possible to change and debug a lot of the (Python-) procedures without the need for re-compiling. There's a lot to explore.

    And each printers provides an API for "remote control" (actually two - the older one for network printing and the new one for the digital factory).

     

    Was anything of this removed in newer firmware versions? That would be indeed annoying... Or is it just because of the risk of losing warranty or such...?

     

    • Like 1

    Cura says printing but nothing happens

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Hi @gamergirl4,

     

    Cura was never meant to act as a print server - although it obviously (partially) works.
    Just use the (micro) SD-card and enjoy a device that prints stand-alone.

     

    Alternatively (or if you insist to print via USB cable 🙂)
    Better use a dedicated print server like "Repetier host" or "Octoprint". Both are free to use.

     

    Happy printing!

    Layer Splitting PET-G

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    13 minutes ago, igniparra said:

    Do I need an enclosure?

     

    Not necessarily, but it helps of course.

    Don't use the part cooling fan for those big objects and try a different filament first.

    If this is "silver", use a different color - i don't know why, but these glittering additives make it much more worse.

    • Thanks 1

    Extruder position. Zero offset G92 issue

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Wallfort94 said:

    Is there a way to stop the reset to zero and just have it increment past  4000? I think I understand why they are resetting around that many increments. Possibly due to Encoder constraints and rollover?

     

    Actually the CuraEngine does it after every 10000 mm³ extruded volume.

    More about the reason here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/14

     

    Exceptions are single extruder machines with GCode flavors "Bits from Bytes" and "Makerbot"

    for reference: https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/blob/master/src/gcodeExport.cpp#L862

     

    (dunno if this is of any help... it's perhaps easier if you fix your software... 😛)

    UM2 50W heater PIDs and power budget

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    4 hours ago, rotorhead said:

    So in which case and as I understand it, I need 175 150 50 and it's absolutely fine that the sum of the parts do not add up to the total?

    Presumably the 220-175 difference is so that there is some allocation for the steppers and main board?

     

    yes (to both questions).
    All these numbers are only guesses, estimates and averages anyway. 🙂

    As long as you use the default PSU and everything runs stable - just leave it at this.

     

    Good luck with the PID tuning!

    UM2 50W heater PIDs and power budget

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    2 hours ago, rotorhead said:

    then ran a PID auto-tune using the firmware

     

    Don't use this... Marlin auto-tune does not work - it never has 🤷‍♂️

     

    2 hours ago, rotorhead said:

    Is there another way of working this out or has anyone else found a solution that works? I feel like it should perform better

     

    I would like to be wrong, but articles that are useful in practice (for this specific task) are very rare...

    Here is a nice write-up that may help (especially the "Troubleshooting" section):

     

    https://forum.seemecnc.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=11440&p=106976

     

     

    3 hours ago, rotorhead said:

    do I also need to increase the total or is this a fixed value based upon the 220W power brick?

     

    no!, yes! 🙂

     

    BTW: The absolute values do not count, the ratio between them is the key. Here is the shortest (but complete) explanation from the originator:

     

     

    Print head alignment aid

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    1 hour ago, gauthier said:

    I don't have that tool. Can I get a precise enough distance, so that I can measure with a caliper when I should stop tightening? Or if that's a bad idea, print such a "print head alignment aid"?

     

    This spacer is part of the maintenance kit

    STL-file and dimensions are also available on Youmagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-printhead-spacer

    The distance is intended to be 16.8mm - well doable with a vernier caliper

    Cura-Einstellung für Anycubic i3 Mega S

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    6 hours ago, DivingDuck said:

    gestern mal meine Platten mit einem dafür passenden Haarlineal zu überprüfen

     

    Pah! Haarlineal grenzt ja schon an unlauteren Wettbewerb! 🧐 🙂

    Selbst wenn die Platte perfekt eben ist, können immer noch die (paarweise verbauten) Führungsstangen für X und Y - Achse leicht "bananenförmig" sein. Dann hat man keine Chance, egal wie gut man "levelt".

     

    Menno, der komplette Drucker kostet < 280 EUR (Versand aus China inklusive) - da kann man schon mal ein paar Kompromisse mit Bluetape eingehen.... 🙂

     

    Mit Cura-Einstellungen hat das allerdings jetzt nix mehr zu tun - und da ist auch in dieser Hinsicht nicht viel zu machen (IMHO).

     

     

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