tinkergnome
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3D Prints
Posts posted by tinkergnome
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42 minutes ago, Valkrider said:
FreeCad says it is fine.
How are these objects made in FreeCAD?
It doesn't look good at all. Nothing more than a few thousand "flying" triangles that are not connected.
In addition: The wall is razor-sharp at the tip. Which kind of printer can build this...?
It should look like this:
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9 hours ago, 7hatGuy said:
Are these just not there or am I not looking in the correct spot?
It depends... 🙂 Which printer definition is selected?
Printers of the UM2-series use the material settings that are configured on the printer itself (by default).
You have to change the GCode-Flavor to "Marlin" if you want to have full control about this with Cura. It's in the Cura machine settings.
Be aware that there are settings for maximum feedrate. If you want to go higher than 45mm/s for retraction speed you have to increase the maximum allowed value first (printer maintenance menu -> "Motion settings")
Good luck!
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2 hours ago, msageryd said:
The nozzle makes funny jumps every 360 degrees which makes a very visible seam.
Take sure that any "z-hop" and "retract at layer change" is disabled in Cura
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3 hours ago, ACCSisko said:
Ich bin mir bei den 0,5 in der Mitte nicht sicher, leider meldet sich der User nicht, der mir die Werte geschrieben hat.
Die Frage ist doch erst ein paar Stunden alt....? Lass dem George mal noch ein bisschen Zeit, schließlich ist der in einer ganz anderen Zeitzone.
Die Standardwerte für den UM2+ (35W) stehen hier:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/blob/UM2.1_JarJar/Marlin/Configuration.h#L206
Ich bin mit den folgenden Werten ganz zufrieden (35W), aber perfekt ist das wahrscheinlich auch noch nicht:
p:12.00 i:0.75 d:75.00Ich glaube, Heizwiderstände sind auch nicht alle präzise 35W (auch wenn sie als solche verkauft werden). Da gibt es durchaus Schwankungen. D.h. die genannten PID-Parameter sind eh' immer nur ungefähre Richtwerte.
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Only an explicit tool change command sets the active hotend (T0, T1...).
Again: all assuming that the printer is driven by Marlin. No clue if other firmware behaves different.
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10 hours ago, BPerry2020 said:
I had already installed the beta from 3Dconnexion for Big Sur.
The crucial point is that RawMouse does not use the 3DConnexion driver at all.
In contrary (from https://github.com/smartavionics/RawMouse/blob/master/README.md😞
Quote"On systems that have an existing driver installed, you may need to disable that driver so that RawMouse can gain access to the device."
Dunno, if libspnav library is mandatory or optional on MacOS?
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3 hours ago, Smithy said:
Ich bin von Natur aus faul und habe Octoprint auch bei einem Drucker im Einsatz der direkt neben mir steht 🙂
Mooooooment! Das hat ja wohl nix mit Faulheit zu tun. Nur mit Zuverlässigkeit!
* SD-Karten (und -Leser) sind empfindlich, zerbrechlich und verschleissen mit der Zeit.
* Nur ein WLAN-Kabel hält ewig...(genau wie der UM2)! 🙂
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4 hours ago, ultimaker_user said:
Is the correct procedure is that I have to first create a profile and give it a name.
Sure. There's nothing to export if nothing is created. Default profiles can not be exported AFAIK - those are read-only.
...and once a custom profile is created you simply select it from the list (if you want to use it for a print).
I think "Create profile from current settings" is all what you're looking for, the export function is a whole different topic.
All you need is in this dropdown menu:
https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012380880
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8 hours ago, ultimaker_user said:
I am trying to store the settings I have been tweaking for days so that I can use it for different STL files. I read that I can do that by exporting profile.
Exporting is only handy if you want to use it as a file for backup or if you want to import it into a different Cura installation (AFAIK).
Anyway: The "Cura Profile Writer" has to be enabled, not (only) the reader. And according to the manual there's an "Activate" step to do first (this will enable the "Export" button).
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13 hours ago, mslunsky said:
When UM 2+ext ist selected i cannot chage the temperature as the menue doesn't show any values. When I select instead an UM (1) or UM 3 Ican change all temperature settings. Is this a Bug?
It's a feature of the UM2 series.
Short answer:
(very) long answer: 🙂
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4 hours ago, zhutwo said:
This causes both extruders to be set at 200C
Which firmware is used by this printer?
Is it added as a custom printer in Cura? And which gcode-Flavor is used?
M104 (without any T-parameter) sets the temperature for the active hotend only (at least in Marlin firmware). So your example command from above is totally fine for this purpose.
See documentation for M104 here: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M104.html
If your printer behaves different i would consider this as a (severe) firmware bug.
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Oh - and the part does not fit in the build volume 🙂
Most probably you can reduce the size of the brim to solve this.
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13 hours ago, xiragde said:
i have attached the stl file if anyone can explain what i need to do
It would be easier with the actual .blend file...
But the main problem are a lot of intersecting faces in the resulting stl file.
It's a bit guesswork... it seems like the two inner divisions are separate cubes that are crossing each other and are touching (but not connected to) the outer walls. This will not work for 3D printing because it results in intersections and overlapping geometry.
The whole piece is needed to be a single, manifold geometry. Don't stitch together separate parts in this way. Start with a single cube. Use only "scale", "loop cut" and "extrude" and you will get a box with a mesh topology that is perfectly suited for printing. Merge duplicate vertices before exporting - just to be sure.
Something like this:
Step 1 (loop cuts):
Step 2 (extrude):
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Well, you don't mention the model of your graphics card or the driver version, that makes it a bit hard... 🤷♂️
As you already know a graphics card with support for OpenGL 4.1 is needed for full preview functionality.
You can start to check the log file, some more details here:
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7 hours ago, assafp said:
Any other advice?
Did you read the article about "manifold geometry"?
You have to model an object that can exist in the physical world. Walls without thickness do not exists and are not magically generated. You have to model them.
It doesn't matter how you do this. Extrude the faces, use insets, close the geometry - whatever works for the given task. 🤷♂️
The solidify modifier can't repair a broken topology.
It's possible with Blender - there are lots of tutorials on youtube about proper hard surface modeling for 3D printing, the importance of good mesh topology and so on. If you have fun with it - do it, stick with it.
An example:
But Blender is for sure not the best tool for this task and you will have a hard time in the beginning.
You can have a much easier start with 3D printing if you use a 3D-CAD program instead. There are even free ones.
A lot is possible - and you have choices... i'm just saying..🙂
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1 hour ago, zerspaner_gerd said:
Wenn aber zwischen zeitlich ein neues Board eingebaut wurde stimmt das alter/Laufzeit der Hardware Bauteile so und so nicht mehr über ein
Das muss hier nicht der Fall sein, aber zur Sicherheit ist ausserdem zu bedenken:
Die Summen unter "Printing" zählen nur für Drucke von der SD-Karte.
Wenn der Drucker über USB angesteuert wird (z.B. mit OctoPrint), dann zählt das nicht mit. Die Statistik wird dann (z.B.) in OctoPrint geführt - aber das nützt Dir ja nix...
Mehr als ein grober Anhaltspunkt ist diese Statistik eh' nicht. Man kann sowas auch in weniger als 100 Stunden kaputt spielen, in anderen Fällen ist alles nach 5.000 Stunden noch so gut wie neu...
Was ist denn mit dem Extruder passiert? Warum musst Du den zerlegen?
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The yellow buttons are just the three extruders. That should be fine.
The tools on the left side are all plugins. First step is: click on "Marketplace" (upper right corner) and check if the "Scale Tool"-plugin is installed and activated (!).
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3 minutes ago, Juliogdiana said:
Also I have installed the e3d board that supposed read the pt100 from head and send reading to the board
The e3d amplifier board is based on the circuit design of the Ultimainboard V2 controller (according to their documentation).
Dunno, but i can imagine that there's a pullup resistor for the old thermistor on the arduino shield. If so, the resistor needs to be removed or bridged first.
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6 hours ago, assafp said:
I've looked at every forum thread I could and made all the recommended changes and still the problem persists. Thanks in advance for the help, I'm 1 week into 3d printing.
This are only faces with zero volume.
The crux is: a non-manifold geometry can not be printed. Most slicers try it anyways, but the result is usually not what you expect. Some hints:
https://www.sculpteo.com/en/3d-learning-hub/create-3d-file/fix-non-manifold-geometry/
Designing for "real world things" is very different from the "just for visualization" - approach.
If you design functional parts a good CAD program would be the better choice (as @geert_2 said).
For this simple example you can either:
- in Blender: close the top and the bottom with faces and in Cura: set top and bottom thickness to zero and choose a reasonable wall thickness
or
- use the "Solidify" modifier in Blender and define the thickness of the outer wall this way
There's a builtin add-on in Blender called "3D Print Toolbox". It can check models for several error types.
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10 hours ago, Mantawesome said:
If I rotate the dice 90 then the top and bottom are still sliced incorrectly and the sides are fine. So I know it is not the geometry.
If you consider how the "slices" are made (always horizontally), it may be still the broken geometry.
At least there are some (or all?) normals facing inwards. That's perhaps not the main issue, but there may be more...
How does the "X-Ray-view" in Cura look like?
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Ich glaube, dafür ist ein "modifier mesh" gedacht. In diesem Fall also ein zusätzlicher Würfel, der den Bereich mit abweichenden Einstellungen markiert.
Wenn Du dafür nicht extra ein CAD-Programm bemühen willst, kannst du auch einen "Support-Blocker" hinzufügen, passend skalieren und positionieren, und dann den Typ (und die Füllung) ändern, wie im Handbuch gezeigt:
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On 11/10/2020 at 2:56 PM, johnroy22222 said:
Is there some ground rules which I failed to follow ?
Basically - make it manifold. It has to be a solid single object and watertight.
- no "floating" faces
- no overlapping faces
- no internal geometry
- no holes in the mesh
This model has all of it🙂 as far as i can see...
Whatever you did - it does not work this way.
There are step-files in the original design. I recommend to use these as the basis and make your modifications with a proper CAD program. FreeCAD could be used, or even Fusion360 if you want.
Some pictures:
The X-Ray-view in Cura gives a rough indication of all "problem zones" (marked in red).
3DBuilder imports it like this:
Meshmixer counts 88 separate shells that are not connected to each other
...and PrusaSlicer counts the errors in more detail for you:
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11 hours ago, deonholt said:
In my printer's (Ender 5 Pro) machine settings, it does not allow me to change the "Number of Extruders" from 1 to 2. It is a dropdown list and does not contain 2
You can probably use this definition as a base and add a second extruder definition (file) as described in the wiki:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki/Adding-new-machine-profiles-to-Cura
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2 hours ago, cryptie said:
I cleaned the shafts, clipped them back in and lubricated with machine oil but when I try moving the head with my hands, its VERY tough to move. i tried tightening the belts, but the motor is moved to its maximum position.
These are the things that i would try first:
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There are two linear roll bearings in the printhead. Since the printhead has already cracks... check if these bearings are still seated in the correct position and orientation (not twisted or tilted).
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Oil can resinify / gum over time, so take sure that any old residue is thoroughly wiped off (with a paper towel and rubbing alcohol). That counts for all 6 horizontal shafts and the two vertical shafts of the z-axis.
For re-oiling of the 8mm shafts only use light oil. Oil that is meant to be used for sewing machines works best.
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To rule out a broken stepper motor: loose the x and y motors, so that you can remove the short belts from the motor shaft. This will not affect the perpendicular gantry system, so it's an easy ("non-destructive") test.
Move the printhead and rotate the motor shafts by hand to check where the actual resistance comes from.
All of this with a non-powered printer of course. 🙂
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Slicing problem - one layer of stringing
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
This may be valid for the larger one.
There's a sharp edge on the tip of the smaller cone.
Anyway - both models are broken and therefore results of slicers are unpredictable.
If you don't have seen it yet - here is a comprehensive tutorial about preparing models with FreeCAD:
https://yorikvanhavre.gitbooks.io/a-freecad-manual/content/working_with_freecad/preparing_models_for_3d_printing.html