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tinkergnome

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Posts posted by tinkergnome

  1. 9 hours ago, bigwood247 said:

    i have another question now for the cura gcode flavour do i use marlin or reprap for that 

     

     

    It depends... 🙂

    One thing is: one can choose an emulation type, it's a firmware setting see M555

    This only affects response messages on the serial console AFAIK. Simply choose the same on both ends, and it should be fine.

     

    Reprap firmware is (by default) compatible with "Marlin".

    I think there are only marginal differences in the output that Cura generates for both flavors.

     

     

  2. 9 hours ago, jnelson33 said:

    @nallath None of those files can be downloaded, it's just a bunch of lines of what I'm guessing is firmware code. I don't get why none of those hex files cannot be downloaded.

     

    @jnelson33

    GitHub behaves a bit special when it comes to download individual files...

     

    The easiest way is:

    - navigate to the main page of the repository (https://github.com/Ultimaker/cura-binary-data)

    - click on "Clone"

    - download the whole content as a zip file

     

    Alternative:

    - click on "Go to file"

    - right click on a single file and download it with the appropriate browser function ("Save target as..." in Firefox)

     

    (there are probably even more alternative ways, dunno)

     

    • Like 1
  3. 10 hours ago, Vinko said:

    There is a problem with Cura 4.5 settings prime tower size ,

    and prime tower minimum volume.

     

    What exactly is the problem with these two settings?

     

    10 hours ago, Vinko said:

    I have tried many variants of settings but second extruder  not works properly.Filament drops down inside the prime tower.

     

    It behaves like that since several Cura versions. So i guess it's simply the intended way (since the switch to a round prime tower?) and seems to work fine (usually).

     

    10 hours ago, Vinko said:

    Also the height of prime tower is only half of vase height.

     

    Well, the prime tower ends at the height of the last tool change. That's normal. The upper part of the model will be continuously printed with a single extruder, right?

     

    BTW: i assume you will get more attention for your question if the topic would have a more descriptive title... 🤷‍♂️

    • Thanks 1
  4. 3 minutes ago, bigwood247 said:

    So ur saying I need the duet rerap firmware integration thing ??

     

    Yes, exactly.

    Unless there exists already a predefined printer definition for the exact printer model that supports this connection method (but I'm not aware of one).

    I think you're talking about the button "Add printer by IP"? I may be wrong, but this function is meant to connect Ultimaker printers only (AFAIK).

  5. 7 hours ago, Zerphan said:

    I am unable to work out the steps per mm

     

    Calculating the theoretical value (as a starting point) is fairly easy, but you need the (micro-)steps/rev of the stepper motor as well.

    Simply compute the quotient of steps/rev of the motor and mm/rev of the pulley (20*2mm in your case).

     

    For a common 1.8° stepper motor and 1/16 micro-stepping this would be: (200*16)/(20*2)

    (assuming that all pulleys are of the same size).

     

    There are online calculators for the lazy ones... 🙂

    https://blog.prusaprinters.org/calculator_3416/#steppermotors

  6. 26 minutes ago, Niels_Amstel_Engineering said:

    Is there a way to modify an AA core with a different type of nozzle for the same effect.

     

    Ultimaker print cores are a consumable as a whole, they are not designed for replaceable nozzles.
    E3D-style nozzles (like from your link) will not fit anyway.

     

    Considering that you've probably already severely damaged the AA core with a single print from abrasive material, the price of the CC core looks perhaps a bit more attractive... 🙂

     

    The (third-party) print cores from 3DSolex do have replaceable nozzles, but i have no personal experience with those.

     

    • Thanks 1
  7. 25 minutes ago, roccop said:

    so even the flexifil is a TPC it is ok to call it a CPE and chose this on the printer when feeding it is that correct?

     

    Yes, that's what i do on the UM3. The important part during filament loading is the nozzle temperature. It's 240C for CPE - right in the middle of the temperature range for FlexiFil.

     

    29 minutes ago, roccop said:

    Have you used the Colorfabb varioshore

     

    Not yet - it's still sitting in the shelf... i don't had a proper use case yet...

    It contains a foaming component which behaves different depending on the printing temperature. So you can achieve a variable shore-hardness even in the same printed object - just by changing the temperature and flow rate. That's why it's so interesting...

  8. 12 hours ago, TheodorK said:

    After some reading on the forums I fount that the UM3 firmware is available on request, but Ultimaker is systematically ignoring my requests.

     

    Only the "Marlin"-part of the firmware is open source (AFAIK) and should indeed be available on request. Who do you asked? One of the moderators or administrators here can probably connect you to the right person if you want to change this part (for the motion controller). But it's a fairly old (and stripped down) standard version of Marlin and probably not of much help anyway.

     

    As gr5 said: some things (json and python files) can be changed direct on the printer in developer mode (for your personal needs - not for resale - and of course on your own risk).

    Other things can be controlled by the API - which can be an alternative way (depending on your requirements).

     

    The display / menu control is an exception (not written in Python) and the Ultimaker Connect / Cloud part is closed source anyway.

     

    So the question is: Which part(s) do you want to modify?

     

  9. 12 hours ago, SlothMcLazy said:

    comparing it to proper Cura generated GCODE and sadly I can't find anything.

     

    look closer... 🙂

     

    A file generated by Cura starts like this:

    ;START_OF_HEADER
    ;HEADER_VERSION:0.1
    ;FLAVOR:Griffin
    ...

    compare the second line with yours...

     

     

    In addition:

    • Lowercase parameters in Gcode commands will be ignored (in the best case) - check line 34
    • i would use the G0 / G1 convention like described in the Marlin documentation, just to be future proof (https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html)
    • don't forget to ask for the filament diameter for calculations of the extruded volume 🙂
    • besides of the mandatory header the UM3 firmware uses Marlin as well - that means - the rest should already work as intended

     

    Good luck!

     

     

     

     

  10. 18 hours ago, roccop said:

    has anyone printed with the Formfutura Flexifil? if so what settings did you use?, what do you select when loading it into the printer so that the printer knows what it is using?

     

    Generic CPE works at similar temperatures. I would use this as a starting point. AA0.4 print core is the correct choice.

    Make all speed settings visible in Cura and print slow (approx. 20mm/s) at approx. 250C (depending on the layer height).

     

    It works better for me if i set the feeder tension a little bit higher than normal. And you can increase the flow setting in Cura to approx. 115%, if you still notice gaps between printed lines. Use little to no fan.

    And as with all flexible filaments: it's not suitable for prints that require a lot of retractions. Try to reduce the count of retractions to a minimum or switch retractions off.

     

    If the filament sensor doesn't work for this type of filament it should be possible to switch the sensor off (someone with an S-Line printer probably knows more).

     

    I don't use the "material unload" function but simply pull out the filament by hand when the print is finished. Works like a charm... 🙂

     

    BTW: which printer is it used on?

     

    ...oh, and if you print tires as functional parts... you should take a look at Colorfabb Varioshore

  11. 17 hours ago, 3dprint2020 said:

    Nun brauche ich das Teil im Maßstab 1:12 statt 1:10

     

    Wie kann ich in Cura aus dem 1:10 Teil ein 1:12 Teil machen?

    Was muss ich einstellen und wie Rechne ich das um ?

     

    Hallo Harry,

     

    naja, Cura hat ein Skalierungswerkzeug - das ist für solche Fälle wie gemacht 🙂

     

    ...und 10 dividiert durch 12 ist auch keine superschwere Rechenaufgabe. Skalieren auf 83,33% sollte also für diesen Zweck genau genug sein (in Eingabefeld (3) eingeben).

     

    Viel Erfolg!

     

     

    Link aus dem Cura-Handbuch:

     

    https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012031159-How-to-scale-models-in-Ultimaker-Cura

     

     

    Adjustment-tool---Scale.png

  12. 2 hours ago, Digibike said:

    Kenne ich jetzt so nur von einer Variante: Es gab eine Kollision und der Zahnriemen ist an der Stelle übersprungen.

     

    Das kann sein - aber gleich um 2cm...?

    Der Abstand der Printcores in X-Richtung ist 18mm - ist das Zufall oder kann es etwas damit zu tun haben? War das ein Dual-Druck?

     

    Eine Zusatzfrage: Ich sehe auf dem Bild hauptsächlich (recht groben) Support und in der Mitte den relativ kleinen Zylinder. Was hat denn bis dahin 15 Stunden gedauert?

    Waren das extrem kleine Layerhöhen oder täuscht die Perspektive in dem Bild?

     

  13. 13 hours ago, rotorhead said:

    So I just need a command to move down by 50mm and then if it can it will and if it can't it will just hit the end stops and stop there?

     

    In general not, it depends on the firmware. All endstops are ignored during printing on an UM2 (for example) and any command that is received on the serial port (USB) is performed as is (in any case). Octoprint does not have such an endstop-check feature as well (AFAIK).

    IMHO you can still use the idea, but you have to change the amount of movement in the end-script for very tall models. I guess, you will do this editing in any case or do you make a time-lapse video of every single print...?

     

    Can't you use the Octolapse plugin for this purpose?

    Or simply use your video editing software to add the last snapshot at the end of the video for a few seconds (i think, even the Windows Movie Maker can do this)?

     

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