tinkergnome
-
Posts
2,774 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
61
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by tinkergnome
-
-
3 hours ago, OszilloVonGraf said:
Vor dem Druck macht der eine Auto Nivellierung durch das System. Verstehe das nicht, die müsste das doch ausgleichen.
Es kann schon sein, dass das andere Material etwas "nachgiebiger" ist als die Glasplatte und damit das "Active Leveling" etwas daneben liegt.
Ein häufiges Missverständnis ist, das sich durch manuelles Leveling der Abstand für das "active leveling" irgendwie beeinflussen lässt. Dem "active leveling" sind die sorgfältig eingestellten 0.15mm aber völlig schnuppe, das ermittelt alles nochmal neu und ausschließlich nach eigenem Gusto...
Die vorherige manuelle Einstellung sorgt dann immerhin noch dafür, das die Ebene stimmt - also das die Platte nicht allzu "schief" im Raum liegt - das ist aber auch schon alles.
Wenn alles einmal sauber manuell nach Wunsch eingestellt ist, braucht man das "active leveling" nicht mehr. Stell die Häufigkeit für "active leveling" dann einfach auf "Never" (am UM3 ist das ja immerhin noch möglich). Nur dann wird der manuell eingestellte Abstand auch benutzt.
Das ist erfahrungsgemäß der beste Weg, wenn alternative Platten benutzt werden. Das manuelle Ausrichten muss dann nur wiederholt werden, wenn die Printcores gewechselt werden.
4 hours ago, OszilloVonGraf said:Ich würde da auch gern mal mit einer digitalen Messuhr / Fühlerhebelmessgerät ran. Aber ich finde keine geeignete Kopfbefestigung für so eine Uhr am UM3.
Gibt's sowas (Thingiverse, STLfinder, STLBase etc.)?
Für den UM3 hab ich auch noch nichts gesehen. Aber wenn Dir dafür noch eine gute Idee über den Weg läuft, sag Bescheid 🙂
-
8 hours ago, Floste said:
Datei im Anhang.
Der erste Layer hat eine Höhe von 0.3mm und es folgen 398 Layer mit Höhe 0.2.
Die Gesamthöhe ist 79.9mm
Entspricht das den Erwartungen?
-
1 hour ago, edit-mesh said:
And it's no fun having 20 different materialsettings namend "custom1 - 20" on your UM2, because you're not able to export material settings/names
As a side question... Why is your printer not able to export/import the material settings?
Method #2 from the FAQ worked just fine back in the days.
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, JEFF2A said:
Hi ! I've got the same trouble on my UM3E, is it possible to swap the Olimex Board between UM3e(1783) and UM3(1782) ?
Thank you !
dunno what those numbers are, but this thread may help if you want to try it:
-
On 4/17/2020 at 2:36 AM, jedver24 said:
Im new at this so please have patience. Ive been trying to print this adapter i made in Blender and cant seem to figure out why Cura places a wafer in the middle of the mesh. I need it to be hollow all the way through. If i need to fix the mesh in blender i will. I thought my normals were good to go. Any ideas?
@jedver24 sorry, but it does look not even close to be printable at all... 🧐
I never used Blender (and it's for sure not the best tool to design such technical things).
But there are some good tutorials, you can have a look at this one, for example. Especially chapter 1.2 and all options of chapter 3
https://www.sculpteo.com/en/tutorial/prepare-your-model-3d-printing-blender/
-
3 hours ago, MagicalBeard said:
if I check "print bed cleared" then it will automatically start the next print.
The only way that i know is to set the printer status to "not available" on the Ultimaker Connect page (web browser). There's a 'Manage printer' link on the 'Monitor' stage in Cura. It can't be done from the printers menu.
While the printer is "not available" you can do any necessary maintenance tasks, material changes and such things.
Set it back to "available" and it will continue to process the printing queue.
-
1
-
1
-
-
5 hours ago, flnielsen said:
What I found was a large text file with the name: 2116-H.STEP
Yep. You can save it with this name. It's a standardized format, nearly every CAD program can import it.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10303-21
BTW: there's a (green) link on the GitHub page to download the whole repository as a zip-Archive. That's probably easier than grabbing each file separately.
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/archive/master.zip
On 4/15/2020 at 3:21 PM, rcfocus said:You will need a CAD tool to open the STEP files.
There are quite elaborate instructions, e.g.:
https://all3dp.com/2/step-to-stl-how-to-convert-step-files-to-stl/
-
4 hours ago, CCA1 said:
I have the expansion board and the firmware is Tinker_Mark2_19.03.1
OK, but there are different hex-files with this version number and the symptoms are exactly the same as if the variant without 'expansion-board' in the name is installed.
That's why this question came to my mind...
My recommendation is to double-check that "Tinker-Mark2-expansion-board-19.03.1.hex" is used
(or "Tinker-Mark2-extended-expansion-board-19.03.1.hex" if you use an UM2 extended+)
-
13 hours ago, CCA1 said:
Any ideas as to why this would be going on?
It depends...
Is this a setup with the optional expansion board or without?
If expansion board is present and connected properly: the matching firmware variant is installed as well? -
10 hours ago, nighthowlers said:
It was still scratching and I suspect it is some manufacturing tolerance issue.
The lever of the end switch is also bendable (be gentle). There you have yet another possible manufacturing tolerance (if you want to call it so).
I have done it in the past to squeeze the maximum out of the build area (so more or less the opposite of your requirement 🙂).
But the spacer you made fulfills the same purpose of course.
-
12 hours ago, parules678 said:
I want to have cura 3.6 back where can I find the download?
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/3.6.0
(download links at the bottom of the page)
-
I found this notes about Creality firmware:
https://www.creality.com/info/cr-10s-pro-1701v-firmware-installation-i00019i1.html
Quote[CR-10S PRO 1.70.1V Firmware]
New Function:
...
2. Only when you use auto leveling mode, no matter there's G29 in the g-code file or not, it will test the 16 points( before printing, after reach up to the temperature), then start printing. if it is in non-auto leveling mode, it will not have the 16 points test.what...? seriously...? why...? 😲
I'm sure, that's the main part of the problem. Maybe an explicit G29 in the start-script would help to process things in the right order. (dunno) 🤷♂️
-
19 minutes ago, malegelebi said:
the machine now does a double 'home' before it starts the ABL
? wait a minute...? that's totally confusing to me...
Why does the printer do (some kind of) ABL and moves to the center (for homing...?), while there is no gcode command that initiates such a sequence...?
Is this some sort of automatism that is performed if a print is started from sd-card? And if so - can't it be disabled on the printer?
-
I see two helpful hints in this topic so far - and both are related to the auto-leveling function of the "Pro" models.
On 4/7/2020 at 11:24 AM, malegelebi said:i am getting this same problem ONLY if i turn on auto leveling
1 hour ago, ecappiello said:If you printer Creality CR-10S instead of 10S Pro you don't get the triangle.
The only difference in the "pro" - start-scripts is this single line - which is also related to auto-leveling:
M420 S1 Z2 ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh and Fade HeightI think, it's worth a try, just leave it out and check, if it makes a difference...
and/or ask the originator of the "creawsome"-printer definitions about the purpose and the intended behavior of this command.
Good luck!
-
1
-
-
Maybe the fan bracket of the new printhead is just bend outwards a little bit?
Can you show a picture?
It should look like this:
and not like this (yes - i know, that's the old fan bracket, but you get the idea...):
.thumb.jpg.1f74c7181b9501f57d19cda073505616.jpg)
The overall width should add up to 98mm (approx.)
-
12 hours ago, Crash55 said:
Am I missing something or is the only way to get it to swap to another spool of the same material type is to put it in as generic and not let it read the NFC tag? I was hoping I would be able to select which spool to use next.
There's always hope.... and firmware can evolve over time.
BTW: a
complaint"feature request" 😏 direct via your reseller can accelerate those things sometimes (if there is enough demand).But at the moment that's the only way (AFAIK). 🙄
-
That's the so-called "gap-fill".
You can set it to "nowhere" to disable it completely - i think this is the recommended setting for those face shields.
As an alternative you can possibly "play around" with the line width to get rid of it.
Or use the Cura build from @burtoogle, this will do what you suggest here (AFAIK):
24 minutes ago, purps said:better if it just did a single fat line all the way round
-
The main problem is:
it's not a single, solid part, but 12 individual "tiles" that are partly just touching each other at a single edge, partly overlap each other (check the small window), and it seems like the roof of the small window is "floating" in air (I'm not sure with the latter).I don't know how 3DS max works, but the main goal is indeed to merge all pieces together to a single solid object (no "floating" parts, no intersections, no additional "internal" walls).
3D-Builder "repairs" to stl-file to this, dunno if it comes closer to what you expect? mainroof.stl
(and sorry for all the quotation marks 😊)
If you prepare it for printing on an FDM printer, be aware that the whole part touches the build plate only on a single edge. So you have something to work out to ensure proper adhesion.
-
1
-
-
18 minutes ago, twlum said:
Does it load the gcode into an internal memory?
Short answer: no, it doesn't.
The file is read from the thumb drive. The internal memory is only used for prints initiated via network.
-
1 hour ago, danlarge said:
the firmware I am using seems to run the feeder in reverse
Maybe you picked the wrong firmware variant as a basis?
This one is for UM2+ https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware
-
Well, M300 is meant to play a short beeping sound. The command is supposed to be ignored by printers that do not support it.
I guess these four lines can be omitted without any (other) drawbacks.
BTW: be aware that the UM3 in general supports only a (small) subset of all possible gcode-commands. More details about the UM3 are to be found in these "inside" articles:
-
The short answer is: the model is not a solid, it's not watertight.
The model consists of two separate shells: a solid base and a spherical part that is just an open shell without thickness.
It seems like the walls for the holes are completely missing, the top face of the base plate is superfluous and the two parts are not properly connected to each other.
Does this help?
-
1
-
-
It's just a guess, but i assume the R parameter for M190 is not supported by the UM3.
That means the Ultimaker can't wait for the target temperature during cooling.
The best alternative is probably to add a few minutes pause with the G4 command. You have to test first how long it usually takes to cool down to the target temperature though. -
6 hours ago, MaartenS said:
By rebooting you mean switching the power off an on with the switch on the back?
Yes, that's the easiest way.
As an alternative one could add M501 to the very end of any gcode file. For example by adding it to the end g-code in Cura. This would fulfill the same purpose.
UM3 Andruck rechte Düse vor der Kamera ändern
in Deutsch
Posted
Meines Wissens nach steht das in der Extruder-Definition von Cura und ist nicht irgendwo im Drucker eingestellt. Die Dateien liegen im (Cura-) Programm-Ordner, unter Windows wäre das z.B.:
.......\resources\extruders\ultimaker3_extended_extruder_right.def.json
Dort kann man die beiden Optionen für die x/y Position sichtbar machen, das sieht dann (z.B.) so aus:
Wie @Smithy auch schon sagte - ich weiß nicht, ob sich der Aufwand lohnt. Das müsste für jede neue Cura-Version wiederholt werden und den "Blob" ganz abschalten ist in der Regel die einfachere Lösung...