cloakfiend
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Posts posted by cloakfiend
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I almost bought a makerbot but ended up buying a um2 never looked back. If you cant manually open up your printer to fix a nozzle block or jam or whatever you are doomed, and im sorry but firmware does not solve these problems. Only your hands and an open source printer make this possible. Closed source filament printer = more cost and more failure rates. Period, so think to yourself if you want a reliable printer or one that fails a lot. Its that simple between open and closed source printers. Makerbot is closed source therefore its crap.
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I am printing a lot of large flat objects at the moment (letters) and get this everytime i think it is to to do with the nozzle being too close, but i prefer it that way, after the next layer it flattens it so I dont even bother worrying about it. Im printing in 0.2 BTW but ive seen it in many forms. dont worry about it. you wont see it afterwards unless you leave it at only one layer so its all good...
Dont worry about the weird patterns, its because i rarely ever change my glue now, and i always get perfectly flat surface. In my opinion its always better having the nozzle closer to the glass at the start of the print than further away due to the pla sticking to the glass much better especially for thin letters and anything of any detail.
I've got many more to do so ill show you how bad the next one looks at the start....
Now if only someone solved the incomplete flat top surface for 0.2mm layer prints! lol. That one still puzzles me at increasing temp does nothing or flow either. Oh well, its good enough for what i need anyhows.
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Ok heres my little painting setup that ive tested on the models above. And the pots ive used to mix the varnish in.
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Thanks, They really aren't very difficult at all to do, and no i dont use Modern Masters paints. I tried one type of paint from http://www.sculptnouveau.com/ (the type-c metal paints) and i got the tiffany patina from there as well(which is awesome BTW and you can get fake rust too!), but from what ive read and personal experience you can just make all the paints and patinas yourself and save A LOT of money. its just chemicals after all. Also i prefer the look of my home made metal paint rather than this one as its much much more reflective and looks more genuine in my opinion and the patina look way nicer than with the purchased paint as it contains more metal to react with. On the other hand these ones are much more easy to apply as my varnish mix is tricky to apply if you are a novice with painting techniques. The viscosity dramatically changes with the amount of metal powder you mix in it and can go real globby and drip, but if you take your time and make notes of how much works best for you its a win win. all you need is varnish and metal powder. and wire wool. Also black ink wash for the detail. then you polish it of again, and you have your perfect model.
The really shiny metallic painted models in my pictures arent actually paints they are varnish (in my case ronseal) mixed with metal powder. each one looks slightly different as i never bother measuring how much powder I use and often add more or pouring more varnish for my desired amount of metal. It why the patina works (as patinas are just acid reactions to the metal powder in the varnish), as i mixed copper powder in the varnish and then buffed/polished it down with wire wool to make it shine.
Hope that helps.... ill post pics of my paint pots so you'll see for yourself, its all a bit ghetto as its diy but that way you get the look you want.
Also when the varnish is still wet you can throw different metal powders on it to get a mixed finish with multiple metals in it which looks great after as you could never paint it like that using any paint technique.
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Chloroform works. But that's more like welding as you actually dissolve the plastic.
I could do with some chloroform! ill give it a try!
http://www.sciencecompany.com/Chloroform-32oz-Reagent-ACS-P16936.aspx
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I use Araldite 5mins, its great if you want to get stuff in place as it lets you ajdust the position for the first few minutes unlike superglue and then goes rock solid, its two part, but better than superglue for that reason. then some basic tamiya modelling putty to fill the gaps to make it perfect.
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When will there be a stable version?
Mine works well as long as there is no part and I just play with the settings. With an actual stl-file loaded, the program crashes all the time while scrolling/zooming/panning, sometimes it won't even load/slice while doing nothing (the progress bar just stops and windows tells me that there is a problem with the program and that it has to be shut down or something).
Mine just hung as well, but the same model worked just fine in the legacy cura, so this one is fussy with its models. Check your obj or whatever. Dont bother using this one yet in my opinion. Its slower as well.
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Cura 15.06.01 on my mac here at work doesnt seem to give me the amount of material used or amount of time taken to print object, which renders it useless for me. Any ideas?
RE_EDIT - Maya 2016 is seriously buggy, and cant seem to do planar extrudes properly or even bevel plus on AI files or even text it creates itself???. So back to Maya 2015 and all is good again. Just having a real bad day with new software giving me a headache.
...Well after trying the same file in the old cura (15.02.1) the same model worked even on my crappy mac, so new cura is more sensitive to overlapping surfaces or imperfect models. Which is a great shame as doing things quick and dirty was a nice aspect to this whole printing business. Now you need to be even more careful with your models topology.
Also rotating heavy models is very slow compared to before.
Unless the way it creates support material has improved, I personally will not be using any versions past 15.02 which is bullet proof. I don't require pretty interfaces i require robust stable software.
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OK i have waaay too many of my acetone test paint jobs laying around so im throwing out most of them out, here they are for memories sake.
OK i thinks thats enough, please dont press reply, as its gonna be a lot of space wasted repeating all the pics!!
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Yeah, I was tempted for about half a second then remembered that only idiots enter passwords directly from an email that is non specific, no matter who its from, just reffering to 'payment'.
No names mentioned, No subject other than payment (not what for) mentioned, and an established company using Gmail?, after having just rebranded a forum to be intergrated into the brand more, and Its Very important, yet you havent stated why anywhere in the email??
Lols.
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Also make sure to do atomic pulls. other wise that clicking noise will haunt you for ever!
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Also, for the general user expecting anything of a decent shell quality don't even waste your time printing faster than 50mm/s. For speeds of 50+ for me is more for prototyping use as speed of realisation is more important than actual finish quality. 3D printing at the moment is like pouring a Guinness. Good things come to those that wait.... etc. Doing things as quickly as possible can result in many problems, one of which is the printhead knocking into the print potentially ruining it depending on the structure and solidity of it. My average speed of printing PLA is 35mm/s at 208c (depending on filament brand) BTW.
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I like the blade more than the handle..... but.. whatever.
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Lol, we've had this argument already....
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no need to mess with the screw, put it back to how it was, and just do atomic pulls properly and print off the roll and your problem will vanish.
atomic pulls:
printing off the roll:
your prints may look fine for a while if you dont do atomic pulls, but its only a matter of time before your prints suffer from a blocked nozzle or snagged filament. works for me everytime. Beeping is retraction that is something unrelated and it does that when its moving from one part to the other. sort out the annoying clicking first with atomic pulls and go from there.
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Warhammer....lol. you read my mind... i just went digging in my cupboard and found a whole bunch of these. For those that remember
now i gotta find my brushes, lol.
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OK here is my last vid for my method of PLA smoothing, the Cloakfiend method, lol.
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Thanks cloak fiend for posting all your research into this - it's really interesting to see what you are doing with the Acetone - I tried it ages ago and thought that it didn't do anything apart from bleaching the PLA - you have been very observant - I'm going to have another go with some old prints in different PLA colours.
Remember it works only with 0.06 colorfabb PLA, or 0.1 (depending on the model) with UM PLA but by all means have a go. It always depends on the material and also sometimes in the way the model is printed. You will always get subtle banding, but I recommend sanding after the primer coat to remove them as sanding before doesn't really completely get rid of them for some reason, and the acetone just brings them right back....dont be afraid of a little sanding! but wear a mask when doing it as the dust is real fine. So basically a touch of sanding before and a touch after. you also dont need so much prime, even spot coating is fine.
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This is the finished model sprayed gold, spraying video in next post below.
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Dont get me wrong i love my Um2, and even with no knowledge what so ever like many people managed to get printing out of the box! Its just when things dont go the way you want or expect is what freaks some people out. but with this forum help and knowlegde at hand so as long as you dont mind a little tinkering the um is perfect for me. and as soon as i figured out acetone smoothing pla..to infinity and beyond, i recommend this printer to everyone interested in buying a 3d printer.
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Lol, fair enough but I also am in exactly the same position as you, I don't actually own my printer, but they bought it for me to print things for them and I will also hand it over when i leave, but the next guy will need to tinker with it a bit when the coupler does eventually move or fail (as it will for sure) it never hurts to know how to get around these types of problems. Also I wouldn't call doing atomic pulls strictly plug n play. I found that I had to learn how parts of the printer works for it to get the result i wanted, and theres noway i would have known without tinkering.
In my opinion 3D printers are not quite yet plug and play. I wish they were. That is were a lot of people get a wake up call. Just like print quality with no post production.
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You can try to solve the problem but i gave up a long time ago, this is how i do it now (and have done for the past few months), save any headaches, all you have to do is just take the bowden out before each print, cut that crap off the end, sharpen it and follow what i do in the vid below
i.e. move the material manually back into the bowden, plug it back in, heat up the bed, heat up the nozzle, move it into the head and quickly click print before it cools down. You will never have this jammed problem again until your coupler completely fails. Its quite easy and doesn't really take much longer than doing it normally so its not really that much of a hindrance.
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Ok heres my acetone video. And in my opinion, you are not gonna get any smoother than this without a ton more work or money buying filler and resins.
Sorry about my knee, lol.
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Ok Acetone vid is done, uploading now, here are my results in the meantime. Ignore the scratch marks, you wont see them once painted, its like residue, but super smooth. Just looks kinda weird when you run your nails on it.
And the back for those interested.
now i gotta find my brushes, lol.
Ultimaker or competitor printers - just can't decide
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
Posted
Lol, by the time it checks all that you've missed youre deadline. lol. If its gonna do all those checks and measurements and stuff it then you can forget about it being quicker than anything around today. Thats for sure. There is a robot that can fold clothes now, but it takes it like 10 minutes per t-shirt, so that leave little hope for all of the above!