neotko
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Posts posted by neotko
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Thanks for the replies. I'm going to do some testing over the weekend. The text is really small right on the limit i feel. Thanks.
Easy solution.
Split the object in 2. One the base the other the texts. Merge on cura, select the text object and assign a lower nozzle size to make the extrusion on that area finner. Play until it fits and also, check the gcode view before printing to see if there’s gaps.
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Try to unhide the other accel/jerk settings and you will see that it only uses that high values for travel motion or infill. The visible areas are printed muuuuch slower.
Ofc if you use S3D they also added low accel/jerk to match the hardware limitations. But the settings are send by gcode when it changes heads.
But yea, the machine by default, without cura profiles or s3d basic profiles, has very high values much higher than what it can really manage without quality loss. But also only s3d and cura have Griffin headers that um3 accepts, so to send from another slic3r you would need to modify the header by hand to bypass um3 griffin flavor control.
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Yea the only way to get better buffer is to get a better cpu/board. UM2/3 use atmega2560 with also very outdated stepper drivers.
The easy solution is to buy something better like a duet3d/smoothieboard/replicape that have a better cpu and modern stepper chips.
The 32bits allows to buffer more steps ahead without stuttering and the better stepper chips gives automatic interpolation for slow movements increasing the quality overall, specially on areas where max jerk speed limits the speed. Also boards like duet3d are half the price of a um2/3 board. But ofc one must know how to tinker their machines to install them as they are, not a complex task but still not for everyone.
The alignment of the errors on your photos is because the lines are on one direction or the opposite, so near the end of a line it can buffer the first moves (print smooths) and as soon it needs to rebuffer it slowdowns because the planner needs more data and can’t keep up the pace. Basically, you can only print fast on a um2/3 using low geometry or you need to force a lower polygon count (decreasing quality) to print faster without stuttering the buffer.
Other solution to avoid this visual issues (but also adds others) is to use a very low Jerk speed on the firmware (or sending the gcodes as cura does for um3) this way you force that the machine can’t go faster than Jerk mm/s on changes of direction, and then the buffer doesn’t stutter. Ofc using lower jerk is just a trick to hide hardware errors, but works.
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Tempered glass afaik
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It can be edit using developer mode, using ssh to access the printer, moving inside share/griffin/griffin/machines/jedi.json (or was um3.json?) and changing the prime poop/blob amount to any amount your heart desires.
@bondtech has a step by step manual to edit the esteps, I say this because esteps and prime poop are on the same file and all is editable, so reading this manual is the fastest way to do it right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7A1MEUY39HCLTNPcUJNUndfUXc/view
Read from page 12-13 and read before doing it blindly, you need to change other parts of the file.
If you brick the machine you can do this
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/51752-recovering-a-bricked-um3
And all this stuff to just change the prime amount... Wow
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I see. Well easy answer use old cura.
On S3D controlling what gets infill and how is a matter of adjusting 5-7 settings depending on the situation the user has the control of what happens 90% of the time. And if all fails you can just split the too layer and change the settings for that alone or for a part of the object if you plan ahead.
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Okay, thanks for the correction @neotko I guess the 40C is software controlled.
But on my older UM2 circuit board there is no software control (the newer UM2 circuit boards have a new connector for the fan near the center of the board - the older boards the fan connects on the edge).
Older than 2.1.4 the hotend fan is just always on.
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I would go with Greentec. Has food contact approved on eu (the filament not the printed parts ofc) and resist 100-110C. I did also some tests on the dishwasher and it doesn’t deform a bit. Also is fully biodegradable so that’s a plus for the eco side.
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Check feeder assembly
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21197-totally-busted-extrusion-on-ultimaker-original#reply-147966
Check hotend assembly and bowden
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/19388-problem-with-i-dont-know-what#reply-134413
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Oh and the "fan turns on at 40C thing" is hardware - not software. You and I both have the older UM2 with the older circuit board that has the fan always on.
Technically is software/firmware and the 40C (editing marlin) can be adjusted to any number.
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-Olimex sells a usb to serial cable that allows the user to access the linux directly, this is useful if the error doesn’t start the basic ssh services or the user didn’t activated the dev mode. The cable cost very little.
Oh! I forgot about that! So if I'm going to mess with the json files on my UM3, I think I'd rather buy this cable and connect it to my laptop and just login through that and undo whatever I did to break it.
Yea that’s what I did when I tried to disable the security of the printer and it became a brick
https://www.olimex.com/Products/Components/Cables/USB-Serial-Cable/USB-Serial-Cable-F/
The instructions are on their website and is just 5€
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A few notes
- You don’t leave this clear. But um3 doesn’t have a microsdcard on the slot, so is important to buy one if you don’t have one.
- ESD is, according to UM, important.
- Connecting a HDMI monitor/tv to the hdmi port allows to see the bootup sequence, this is useful to see what fails (if someone doesn’t want to reflash all)
- This method removes all data from cores calibration, etc. So one will need to recalibrate everything, core 2 lift mechanism included.
-Olimex sells a usb to serial cable that allows the user to access the linux directly, this is useful if the error doesn’t start the basic ssh services or the user didn’t activated the dev mode. The cable cost very little.
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Looks correct I think @diettelo
When the motor cables are wrong this happens:
- Motor moves on inverse
- Motor does weird stuttering moves (like moving forward and backwards very fast)
So try to move a bit the motor where it’s before launching a print and check it’s fine. Just also put your hand near the switch off just in case it goes bananas.
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Cool @fergazz I hope they gice you more feedback. Also neoceram is cheaper than the um glass. And super flat
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Stuff that I would check if this would happen to me on a um3
- Bed glass flatness?
To check Z 0 you can
- ativate dev mode on the printer
- access by ssh to your printer root@ipaddressoforinter
Password Ultimaker
Then I would do sendGcode G28 Z
To home Z
Then sendGcode G0 Z2 F8000
To move bed to position 2mm
If all checks, then move to 0 with sendGcode G0 Z0
Always with a hand near the power button just in case something goes wrong.
If any of this sounds like basic alien language, then don’t do it
alien language sounds about accurate
i have a friend who does understand what you wrote. he will help me tommorow and i will report how it worked! 
Is better explained there
Basically with sendGcode you can control the machine like if you had pronterface usb access. Also afaik try to leave the second core switched back in since the z offset is done by the printer. This is important to avoid smashing the bed onto the core. So move the stuff slowly and remember to home all Before moving it. This way you don’t get surprises.
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Stuff that I would check if this would happen to me on a um3
- Bed glass flatness?
To check Z 0 you can
- ativate dev mode on the printer
- access by ssh to your printer root@ipaddressoforinter
Password Ultimaker
Then I would do sendGcode G28 Z
To home Z
Then sendGcode G0 Z2 F8000
To move bed to position 2mm
If all checks, then move to 0 with sendGcode G0 Z0
Always with a hand near the power button just in case something goes wrong.
If any of this sounds like basic alien language, then don’t do it
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NX2 is different than GreenTec
In my own experience, on UM2 hotends (never used on um3)
- Very low viscosity. You can actually retract the filament (visible effect). Very impressive low drip, good for highspeed and low speed.
- Needs bed at 70C for perfect adhesion, for really big plate objects or fan intensive on small areas I use some normal hairspray (I use 2 hairsprays for woman one is Normal and the other is Strong). And to unstick it I turn the fans on and drop some windowasher drops around or isopropyl alcohol.
- It goes white-ish for the colored ones, so I sand it and use a lighter to recover the color if I need to remove small imperfections.
- It doesn't allow simulating nozzle size lower than 0.32 with a 0.4 nozzle, with normal PLA I can go down to 0.28 max (balancing mm3/s to keep the flow and avoid errors)
- Filament size spool it's quite constant, better than greentec. GreenTec can fluctuate 0.04 easily on the same meter (specially black white and grey ones, but blue for me is very precise followed closely by red). NX2 fluctuations are near 0.02 on the same meter, so there's less errors.
- It has slightly higher temperature resistance than PLA, around 5-10C. Easily tested with atomic pulls that need higher temperature to get them perfectly out.
So. IMO is a very good material, great matte colors and very easy to sand (very fast also) and it has higher flexibility than PLA, so it can resist better impacts, but also it can deform after bending it too much, while PLA would just snap.
Neotko, my only concern is about your "white-ish" comment, does it start to fade out after pouring isopropyl alcohol on the printed part or just during the extrusion?
True I wrote that fast and without explaining it. It goes white when sanded or on the areas where it sticks to the bed. I remove them with my nails (yea weird but 100% works) and to recover the color on printed areas that eed sanding I use a lighter fast and without exposing it too much.
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I could be interested to know from a reseller if UM sells the um2 bed as a kit. Afaik they sell if complete with bearings and z motor. Probably not cheap indeed. Also useless without the heater board with pt100 sensor for umo not plus.
Clearly third party or mailing every reseller to see if someone has one in stock or at least the extra board. The other components are easy to find like the powersupply etc.
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Yea and fiberforce or eumaker wood, that’s the ones I love now.
So I mean just as bad, because I mean that woodfill drips a lot, needs a bigger nozzle to ensure long prints and the final print is quite weak compared to a pla.
And as ‘just as bad’ I mean. Woodfills / polywood only give looks, but technically they are uneasy and weak filaments and the feeling of the print is more cardboard than wood.
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Nope, just greentec, bdp and nx2. Btw their bdp wood filament is just as bad as any colorfabb wood. But interesting since is biodegradable ofc.
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NX2 is different than GreenTec
In my own experience, on UM2 hotends (never used on um3)
- Very low viscosity. You can actually retract the filament (visible effect). Very impressive low drip, good for highspeed and low speed.
- Needs bed at 70C for perfect adhesion, for really big plate objects or fan intensive on small areas I use some normal hairspray (I use 2 hairsprays for woman one is Normal and the other is Strong). And to unstick it I turn the fans on and drop some windowasher drops around or isopropyl alcohol.
- It goes white-ish for the colored ones, so I sand it and use a lighter to recover the color if I need to remove small imperfections.
- It doesn't allow simulating nozzle size lower than 0.32 with a 0.4 nozzle, with normal PLA I can go down to 0.28 max (balancing mm3/s to keep the flow and avoid errors)
- Filament size spool it's quite constant, better than greentec. GreenTec can fluctuate 0.04 easily on the same meter (specially black white and grey ones, but blue for me is very precise followed closely by red). NX2 fluctuations are near 0.02 on the same meter, so there's less errors.
- It has slightly higher temperature resistance than PLA, around 5-10C. Easily tested with atomic pulls that need higher temperature to get them perfectly out.
So. IMO is a very good material, great matte colors and very easy to sand (very fast also) and it has higher flexibility than PLA, so it can resist better impacts, but also it can deform after bending it too much, while PLA would just snap.
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What is complex about the rosc pin soldering / grounding fix?
Well I ain't gonna play with a solder on the board unless I really need to XD I mean, if this cheap stuff works, I'm all good. I already found hard enough how to learn to solder stuff on a SMD board when my fan transistor died in 8 different times when doing fan tests, I'm not very fond of doing that stuff with something even smaller XD!
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Just running another test without the smoothers. And the temperature of the bottom side of the board (under the stepper drivers) is the same, you can't touch it.
I did some tests with my cheap Seek addon from iphone (the old model) and the temperature with and without is around 10-25C higher with the smoothers after 1h of print time.
Also indeed doesn't make sense to add smoother if you already did the complex solder fix. You are just changing the stepper waves and it might add errors like you get.
Edit. Also as a general rule for um2/um2+ boards is a good idea to add a heat sink for on the stepperchips since they have poor natural heat sink on the plastic cage. For example for UM3 Ultimaker changed how the board is aligned (flipped 180 degrees like on UMO+) and added a grey sticky thing that heatsinks the back of the stepper chips into the aluminium frame.
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Well amif works works. I just pulled out the panels to pick the nut. And some shaking ofc
jerky speed problem
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted · Edited by Guest
Sure add this Gcode line on the Tab called Scrips / Starting Scripts - at the end or start
M205 X5
This will change Printing Jerk to 5mm/s. By default the printer does it at 20mm/s and you can try 15-10 until it works. Mind that lowering Jerk will affect overall print speed time & geometry of the printed part. Just in case you want to see how low jerk affects print corners (is great for non square objects) check this page https://printedsolid.com/blogs/news/a-solid-foundation-for-high-quality-corners
Btw remember to add also M205 X20 to the Ending Script tab, this way you 'reset' the jerk speed after the print finish, because this setting, unless you reboot the print will stay 'on' unless you add this line at the end of the gcode. Also if you 'stop' a print in the middle the M205 X5 will stay on the memory until you reset the print (just in case you print other files after stopping this one.