neotko
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Posts posted by neotko
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A point in between. If goes tootight it will deform when tightening the steel to the heater block (avoid using the spring and print an fixed height spacer). If it leaks remember that cleaning the steel coupler threads is very important or the burn material won’t allow the ptfe to contact the hotend making a gap that will add tons of blops, burn particles or even a big leak
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For me changing to the default fonts didn't fix it, but changing to Arial font did
This with the theme.json that uses default
And this one with Arial as font al clear and sweet
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38 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:
I am glad you shared that link. According to everybody else,it never happened to anything but the UM3.
But, yeah, I think Cthulhu is a perfect name for it
Oh it can happen on many printers. I think the big issue is that the cores can break on the process. But when this happens on a um2/umo/e3d the replacement parts are cheaper an there’s a whole library of manuals of how to do that. On the um3 there’s no parts, but full cartridges/cores
Its a know issue of fdm. Part unsticks and sticks to the nozzle
um2 examples
https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15266-ultimaker-2-fossilised-hotend/
https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15266-ultimaker-2-fossilised-hotend/
The other problem on the um3 is that if can break the electronics inside the printhead the parta to replace in $ do skyrocket. But for other printers changing a heater, pt100, thermistor, 5v fan, fancap fans. That parts while ain’t plug/play separated are cheaper.
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2 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:
I am not sure if that is a typo, or a foreign word or what, but I read that as H.P. Lovecraft's Cthulhu. LOL
Indeed Cthulhu! That’s how I nickname the printheads flooded XD
Specially since this one
https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/13267-umo-strange-issue/
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I think (and I know you ulticult members will think this is me being negative and blaaablabla) the other 10% could have been mitigated also by properly communicating that most of the first um3 printers had a really bad glass (within the um specs of a 0.3 total up/down warp) that can’t be fixed totally by the automagic level.
Also. About prints detachment. I have a 1/1000 times that happens. I only use hairspray for complex materials but that’s life (I never nor will ever use the glue stick). Also ofc shit happens. But also, with zero communication from um to the customers about how to confront the printer low points, this is bound to happen (And I mean on the manual).
As for Warranty I highly doubt this wouldn’t be covered by EU law but ofc USA warranty is 1 year. Specially since UM3 has a ISO to be left unattended right? I wonder if that iso test was done under what conditions but well, stuff happens.
Also um3 has a good camera (with the resolution lower down by software to keep up the frame rate speed). It should be fairly easy to place an alarm detector to check every 5 minutes if a, for example a Barcode that if, when doing the switch for example, gets unreadable, it just sends a photo of the printer and sends that photo by email to the user. After all it’s been more than a year since release, and the board has plenty of unnused CPU. So? Anyway, just easy ideas that come to my mind now.
Now going back to the topic. Doesn’t the um3 has a temperature monitor on the front area? Could that be just be save-log to debug if the issue of parts making a chulhu out of the printhead cores. Because maybe even with a perfect bottom layer if the printer is left overnight and the temperature drops suddenly (room temperure heating going off in winter) maybe this issues could be easily debugged for the customer and reseller know what’s the issue & properly inform the customer of how to keep the ambient room to get the best out of their printers.
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Here I wrote the how to
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Oh wait I see. Maybe the changed something on new firmwares (I don’t have a um3 anymore since well, long history)
you should be able to move to Griffin and there should be a sendgcode.py the. You can do python sendgcode (or something like that? To run the python, then ince inside sendgcode program you just send gcode directly to the marlin like a pronterface
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Why the dot?
sendgcode G28 Z0
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18 minutes ago, rebekah_harper said:
I am going to need a little more help.
I thought that I could do it through putty but it's not recognising the commands
I did try through browser but that didn't seem to get me any where
cheers
Rebekah Anderson
Try to send other gcodes like G28 Z0 to home Z
if the E moves doesn’t do anything is probably because it has a minimum temperature protection. If um3 marlin allows it you should be able to send a M302 to allow Extruder movement when the tools are below 170C
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You need to enable dev mode and access the machine using ssh root@yourprinterIP and the password is ultimaker
then using sendgcode you can send the gcode you want like “sendgcode G1 E10 F300” (where E is 10mm and F300 is the speed
Ofc the hard part is to change the esteps of the um3 since editing the json file can very easily Brick the printer if one comma or dot is misplaced
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The gcode ends abruptly
Was send by wifi, or saved on usb? Because maybe the usb wasn't properly ejected. Clearly or Cura failed to write all the file or the file saving process was cut before the ended
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Most moderators (if not all) are on UM offices having some fun and provably seeing new secret stuff. So expect less speed from them. And the guidelines are https://community.ultimaker.com/guidelines/
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That’s a um3 print area. The dark grey areas are no-print areas. The switch mechanism, bed clips, or if you use dual all that + prime tower
oh nvm you mean the warning msgs. Yeah, annoying thing when many pop. You can disable some auto arrange options on the preferences to remove that ones
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9 hours ago, DidierKlein said:
I think if you want to do this (first question that comes to my mind is: is it worth the added time?)
The way i would choose is to design the part that will be printed in PVA like i would design a dual color model. And assign the BB core to print that part and disable the support generation.
So it would basically be some kind of big plate that would be printed in PVA to support the next stage... but really i'm not sure the effort and time it needs to print the pva part is really an improovment compared to printing just one stage?
Also regarding UM3 PVA profiles, for me they have always worked quite nicely, it's just a matter of keeping your Pva out of humidity (also the prime tower helps sometimes)
Indeed it will add unnecessary time, but also if you can pull it of cleanly you could leave the printer all weekend working and get a production of 3 days done faster, because you would only need to remove it once. Less human hours/price
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The idea is good. In fact gonna use that idea to test bcn3d pva, on that printer making that should be easier.
UM pva doesn’t stick perfectly and sometimes breaks in parts, that why um3 pva profile needs a big build from the bottom to work. The idea of stacking is really interesting, but that might also add the prime tower time, since you need an area for the pva core to purge after the wait until it’s used. Ofc, the advantage of leaving the printer unattended is a big one for lots of repetitive prints.
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Awesome as always ??????
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1 hour ago, Link said:
Is there a way to find out if the latest version of Cura also includes any new firmware releases for the Ultimaker printers ?. Can’t see any reference in the release notes ?
thanks
Last meaningful update on um2+ firmware was 9months ago.
If UM ever updates the old machines firmwares it would be something interesting, but for what some UM comments daid on the past they don’t see the need for doing that. So, no need to worry
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44 minutes ago, nallath said:
Thanks for being a constructive member of the community!
Where’s the issue there Nallath?
My joking about updating drivers on a osx? (Osx ain’t windows)
Or me asking for a feature to create a debug file so future graphical issues can be debugged better and easier by Cura team?
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46 minutes ago, geert_2 said:
For the cause I would as well look into: vandalism, pets, kids playing and accidentally hitting it, someone who got stuck behind the power cord and pulled the printer off the table (and dares not admit it), and similar? Or maybe the spool got stuck on something (e.g. on a book, a ridge, a heavy box), and when unwinding filament while printing, it sort of rolled the printer off the table, like a cart? For the nozzle covered in PLA, maybe this could also have happened as a result of the crash, the models coming loose by the shock, but the printer continueing printing anyway? Just guessing...
I wonder what effect would do a clogged printhead smashing the switch mechanism after 8 hours...
edit: Not clogged but you know, when they fill of material and they make a chulthu monster inside/outside
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7 hours ago, fergazz said:
hummm... 10 microns is an awesome accuracy!
I think that Ultimaker should considerer test glass-ceramic. Mine is suuuper flat, I'm loving it!! I can take it straight from the bed to the refrigerator or freezer without deform over the time (as advertised), it's cool and not overpriced for the final consumer... at least in my country!
@neotko created this topic a year ago, starting the discutions: A better Bed Glass - Neoceram Glass
Curiosly yesterday bough a neoceram to test on my sigma, and it was worse than the borosilicate glass. Seems bcn can get 0.1 max error borosilicates, and they also can hold high temperature. The part that I think is most interesting on this kind of glasses is that they (like you said) don't break on temperature changes, and also they don't change size while heating/cooling, that's also important to get an stable Z. I wish I had cash to do real tests on this stuff, is so fun to experiment
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18 hours ago, diettelo said:
8 diodes new or old 4 diodes design whats better?
Sorry no idea. This weekend finally changed my 3rd machine to duet3D. Can’t be happier. Interesting as an off topic, it handles PID much (MUCH) more precise than um2/marlin (or at least UM old marlin, since I never used new marlins)
I would save the money of this stuff and just move to a better board. Wifi, better pid (I still need to run PID for the beds to see if it can also improve the um2 pid default values).
Ofc it isnt for an user that doesn’t have do any diy atm.
So long and thanks for all the fish Um boards XD
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5 hours ago, nallath said:
Have you updated your drivers?
That’s the best joke ever hahaahahahah OSX hahahahahahaha
This made my day XD
Any chance of launching anything to generate a debug file so this issue can be fixed? Was on 3.1 beta, then fixed, now back again
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On 10/1/2018 at 10:19 AM, nallath said:
I understand the frustration, but comparing one application to another proves nothing. Looking at slicer, or any other program, won't provide us any information what is going wrong, because the software is fundamentally different. This is the equalivant of saying; "Hey, my android phone is slow and it does run fast on my iphone. You guys might want to port the iphone software to the nokia!".Yes, it should be possible, no-one is disagreeing. Simply put; None of our developers can reproduce it. That makes it orders of magnitude harder to figure ougt what is happening, which is something you need in order to fix it (and of course, test any fixes).
All that being said; How fast is it if you put the layer view in legacy mode? Did you recently update drivers?
That’s an interesting point. Maybe you could make a ‘benchmark’ mode that records the time to slice using A settings (not editable) and makes a log. Maybe with a high count poly (not a box, maybe a ultirobot x3 scale). Then it could make a speed log that you guys could actually use to check. Like a CuraBenchmark for releases. That could be used to post it anywhere (counting that it should log cpu, gpu, os, and speeds). Bad idea?
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7 minutes ago, ultiarjan said:
Also, be aware comparing print speeds has become virtually impossible since The Ultimaker3 and cura2/3.
for the UM3 if you set 80mm/s it's only the the infill, the actual print speed is 40ish...
Default UM2 profiles have this effect a lot less;
I would suggest to always communicate the used wall speed
@Bossler I assume the speeds you mentioned are the infill speeds... so actual wall speed i less that half...
They still don’t understand the importance of a no-tricks mode?
sad...
hummm... 10 microns is an awesome accuracy!
Zits and Banding
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Cr10 PID is know to not be accurate
https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/creality-cr-10/forums/general/topic:17593
https://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/PID+Tuning/6
PID is a controlled temperature algorithm so the heat stays as stable as possible. When heat changes or fluctuates the print literally goes up/down microns making a small Z banding. Ofc on open machines like the cr10 that’s normal since heat has everywhere to escape, but tunning PID should help. Ofc mind that since is a very open machine winter/summer room differences will affect