neotko
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Posts posted by neotko
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@cloakfiend Let’s go back to the basics
You had a 25W heater before or a 35W?
If you had a 25W and installed a 35W one then you must update the PID values to get a stable heat
Also, you could run a PID calibration, but afaik with the 35W PID it works just fine, specially since you have already check all the installation possible issues.
About olsson/notolsson I really don’t see any issue on mines they all stay put at their temp. Specially since you use the um2 fans that are really weak it’s very hard that could be an issue.
If you want to improve (in general) the heat stability you could use a silicon sock, e3d-online sells them for e3d blocks but with some minimum exacto knofe cuts they fit perfectly fit between the block and aluminum fancap, that will increase enormously the heat stability in general (specially when the fans go full you will get much less temperature drop down).
So PID for 35W (same um2+ uses) is
P 10.03
i 1.50
d 70.0
I hope it helps. Cheers!
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Ok update for Beta testers, the Dropbox files are online and updated, with UM2 version and the UM3 core version/hack.
Remember to PM to get read access to the folder where all the stuff is.
Cheers and happy modding!
A side note update:
Gudo and I just started shopping since his GudoXYCore it's done, we will start to plug stuff here and there in a few weeks (misumi doesn't arrive until the 8 October). So get ready to be amazed.
On another side note, Misumi rails cost around 178€ for a set of 3, Gudo went for the high quality set and I gambled getting only the X one from Misumi and other 5 (I want to do this on 2 printers) at a Spain distributor that a friend at Twitter shared, but basically they are hiwin clones at 30€ aprox each. Will be interesting to see the high quality (gudo) and the med quality (mine) differences, but overall with the ZGE + Rails this will be really interesting!
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I have 2 of the same UMO+ temp sensors. They seemed to work fine in Cura's UMO setup test.
No one even answered my question...
So, therefore to use Cura. I have to set it up as an an UMO with 2 hot-ends and the heated bed, and change the position of the end stops on my printer UMO+ to the UMO position specs, at the end of the build volume space instead of at the start?
Yes. Check the extruder 2 offset so it match yours and that will be the data you will need to edit to calibrate the printer on Machine Settings.
Endstops, that's something that don't matter on Cura, that's handled by the machine unless you have install some modifications.
Also, OFC you don't need to do the silly printer check it does when you install a new profile.
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I would go for a different hotend as @neotko also mentions below... Whether that should be the UM2 one as he suggests, I'm not so sure... I've been using E3D myself for a long time and they make a wide variety of super nice hotends and a shit-load of different sized nozzles in different materials.... everything you could ever want or need.
Yea been using a E3D with ptfe liner (and clone one so quality it's so-so) for a short period of time, but the main issues I see with the e3d hotend are absolutely fixed by using a proper heater and pt100 sensor like any UMO+/UM2 allows.
Indeed they offer a wide variety of hotends and specially hightemperatures, but production wise, if the user really needs to change nozzles periodically it's a mess since you have a 3 components hotend, heater, barrel, heatsink. With the um2+ (thanks to olsson) the nozzle swap it's quite painless but most important it doesn't degrade the heater block, with the E3D aluminium if you overtight, or just change nozzles often, the aluminium thread suffer to the point that you need a new heater block, and even when they ain't expensive maintenance it's one (for me) of the important time consumers. So I try to focus on components that I can get many hours without having to replace, fix, or clean.
Ofc if you get a E3D and learn to tune everything I'm sure it can work, in 3D printing the most important part it's the user, any printer can print slow, but to get production and quality with good hardware the part that makes everything shine it's the user (slicer, temperature control, good flat glass, keep the printer lubricated and clean, etcetcetc).
About E3D and 2.85 (I use 1.75 on all my machines with modded hardware) I always do hear clog histories, but maybe that's something of the past and they have all nice and working. But as a side note, E3D officially removed the E3D+Titan upgrade kit for UM2 because they had to use too much time on support, and that CANT be a good sign
But again, any experienced user can make most stuff work, but as a new user it's hard to get on hardware that needs more tuning. When I started I did use the printer as it was, then from that base and after finding the limits of the machine started to install mods, change the feeder for example was a key improvement and belts, and hotend. Ofc I have more mods, but they are just to fine tune the print as much as possible.
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Thank you for these very helpful explanations Tommyph1208!
About the multiple nozzles of the UM2+, do you think that the same results could be obtained with an UMO+ just by changing the nozzle?
The um2+ hotend it’s much better than the umo hotend, in terms of leaks, temperature and precision.
Also a umo+ comes with mxl belt/pulleys that are quite bad IMO.
But indeed a umo+ can print super nicely.
- Basic mods:
GT2 belt/pulleys (aliexpress robotdigg sells decent ones, google mxl gt2 ultimaker for the post about it)
- um2 + hotend. And for um2+ you could buy the um2+ upgrade kit that comes with extruder, hotend and all ready to plug, or you can buy the parts at any reseller/distrutor that has stock to just get the hotend in parts and the other key parts other place).
- Beyond neotko/gudo slideblocks. That could even allow to use the whole print area when combined with the longer um2 central shafts (easy to buy even at igus for real good quality).
Umo hotend ptfe coupler last very short (50-200 print hours) but TFM um2+ coupler last 2000h (and for me much more than that).
You can make a umo+ print much better than a um2, but it takes time, learning and many spools. For me was really worth.
Ofc um2+ frame while is just a frame has one advantage, the weight and low vibrations of metal vs wood. It’s really important? Well, depends how fast you want to print.
The ultimaker frame imo could be better, for example gudo and I are starting to mod our orinter to use corexy rails with a better (modern) duet3d board to improve quality and precision. So, the good thing of any um is that you can mod it to make it better. But also, there are other diy printers out there that are quite nice. I been trsting the east3dgecko, and even with his bad clone hotend they do deliver amazing quality at high speeds just because they did a sturdy frame with corexy system on rails.
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Sorry for being complete noob in that, how do I check it?
Print two of this ones
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/adjustable-axis-alignment-tool
And also check
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#misaligned-axes
And if you need to realign the axes, check this video for UMO+ (it's the same for um2)
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I would check if the x/y are perfectly (not off by a mm) squared.
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@neotko sorry, but i disagree with the "Reprap" choice... (somehow)
I'm not sure, if the Curaengine differentiates between the three "RepRap" styles, but the right choice in Cura 2.7 would be "Marlin" (the first one from the list). That's the same that the UMO uses.
Man it's been so long since I open cura that I didn't knew that, I though it had just 'reprap/ultigcode'. So nice they keep volumetric for open start/end, very nice!
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Just checked the power supply from the above link - it is outputting 12.5 volts has this a bearing or does the supply need to be in the board (under load)
Please test this, remove the HEATER from the board, and check if turns on. Once I had a bad heater and was forcing everything to turn off.
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Change the ultigcode to reprap on the machine settings and then you can change anything directly on cura. As soon you change it you will see start/end gcode and by default it’s just like the one the machine does, but also you can edit it to prime more/less or retract more/less at the end of the print.
Griffin flavor is the one um3 uses btw. You need reprap flavor to edit retraction etc from cura.
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What upgrade kit do you mean? The dual extrusion upgrade kit for the Ultimaker Original? Don't use that one on an UMO+! The temperature sensor is different (thermocouple vs. pt100 on an UMO+) and if you use that heater cartridge which is made for 12V iirc with 24V you will heat with four times the power, i.e. with 160W (good way to burn down your house).
Actually the heater is 19V (umo) on umo+ it works but gives a weird PID. And ofc everything else is on the spot. Also you cannot use 2 different PIDs on old-zero-updated umo/umo+ firmwares. So.. Long story short, think about moving to a mark 2 with um2 hotends and probably a small china clone um2 screen to use tinkergnome firmware directly (but ofc china clones are bad quality, but the real deal is 80€ for a um2 oled screen)
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Like I said, I sw off everything, and when I sw on I hear relays.
So you unplugged all the new stuff to test? Like all new heaters/extruder/pt100, mark2 board. Everything?
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Afaik all is explained in detail in this link
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/7436-more-information-during-print?page=10#reply-120082
Also ofc you will need Tinkergnome firmware to make it work
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En la um2/um2+ la temperatura se define en la máquina al elegir el material.
Si quieres tener control total directamente desde cura cambio en preferencias del perfil de ultigcode a reprap. Así tendras control de la cabezera gcode y final del gcode. En ultigcode la cabecera y cierre los hace la máquina segun el material wue elijes, pero no tienes control sobre cuanto se extruye al principio o cuanto se retrae al final.
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Sure nilrog you're right ! I had thought to this too, it was just for discuss...
Also we can’t make every version for every user. That could be so gigantic we will never get anything done. Also, let’s do first one thing that works, then let the opensource evolve
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Not knowing the details of the CoreXY mod for the stock frame...I imagine that it would not be that hard to change it to fit the UM2 aluminium extrusion clone:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:811271
But @gudo's end-goal looks much nicer
On my brief experience with a alu extrusion machine I must say that they are rigid but also without some panels to close it there’s a big difference between with and without. I’m talking about the east3dgecko I’m testing that also has corexy (all china cheap but quite decent so far). A full alu frame could work but imo without some panels to close ‘the box’ the rigidity changes a lot.
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With all these mods, the only original part remaining is the frame...
So why not designing a frame as well so we can build the printer from scratch ?
And the endstops
! Ofc bed, hotend and psu. That was the idea of @gudo and he did some work around it (well he did all). But we don’t have Medici to found our experiments, so I banged Gudo about making a um2 frame adaptation for the corexy and he always brilliant found a good solution.
Ofc, indeed that would be the best path. Anyone can cnc steel 2mm for free?
The good thing is that reusing the frame at least gives a good starting point. And with cheap aluminum extrusions it could be easy to reinforce it if necessary. Ofc, something bigger could be nice to have at least some free area for wiper, more tools, etc.
Also just some numbers. The Misumi rails are around 150€ (40€-50€ each x3 + delivery). On top of that if you make all bigger they could be 200€ just for the rails, then the frame, depends on how it’s make could be easily be 250-350€. And that’s raw cost. Then you add the board, cnc extras... Reusing the frame saves a a lot, and if for umo needs alu extrusion the are fairly cheap and easy to source.
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Actually the go has so much space around the bed you (hardly) don't loose any.... But it's still a small go ofc....
Just made the thing for fun. Obviously it would make more sense to put the head in a um2 or umo.
Or just thinking out loud.. With the source files on October and the @gudo xycore I could see that pretty and heavier printhead moving with quite sweetness on a rail slider system...
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I'm not going to publish a parts list of the head before Ultimaker publishes the Hardware source (probably in October) but if you PM me and promise not to share the list I can share it ....
A simple google Ultimaker 3 Printhead found this
http://www.mindkits.co.nz/ultimaker-parts-386.aspx
They list the SKU numbers. So it’s pretty much public for most parts
Indeed a good source.... But not complete
What else would you need for the mod? The custom cnc you made right?
And ofc the 12V fans version of the delta 35x35x10 fans, they cost 10€ on mouser (same ones gudo used for his fancap before um3 was released)
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that should be standard operating procedure.. not sending the printer back without any troubleshooting..
Important note at the beginning
“Do not disassemble the printer unless you have been instructed to do so.”
not disagreeing with that, but if the first thing out of a resellers mouth is "just send it back" then that;s not ok with this error...
then again, perhaps I just like to live on the wild side
Nono. I agree with you personally. I would have disassemble the heck out of it because that how I am. But warranty and stuff for um3 is different. So I prefer to be safe than sorry when the printer isn’t mine
Also we know there’s no magic unicorns inside and except the damage by ESD, the rest it’s pretty much like any printer. But also, well, is a 3K machine after all.
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I'm not going to publish a parts list of the head before Ultimaker publishes the Hardware source (probably in October) but if you PM me and promise not to share the list I can share it ....
A simple google Ultimaker 3 Printhead found this
http://www.mindkits.co.nz/ultimaker-parts-386.aspx
They list the SKU numbers. So it’s pretty much public for most parts
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that should be standard operating procedure.. not sending the printer back without any troubleshooting..
Important note at the beginning
“Do not disassemble the printer unless you have been instructed to do so.”
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the future to complete the whole UM heavy mod !
May be we will need a serious Main board to manage all this, a Duet3D for sample ?
Looking great !
Duet3D for me, you know, is the next logical step. Specially since um marlin is quite old and most probably doesn’t have the fixes for corexy that have come over time. Also silent steppers, more expansion room. Maybe even a bigger corexy machine?
Anyoyhas ever tried UM Marlin on a corexy setup? I know @foehnsturm did a corexy but used a Smoothieboard until the board had some crosstalk problems?
Maybe @gudo we should make a new post for this? Ofc it’s related since with the corexy setup it could have a easier multitool approach specially since duet3d and other new boards allow to use bigger amps steppers... Maybe reinforce it with aluminum extrusion and make a small and compact multitool tank? Could be so fun
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But again, any experienced user can make most stuff work, but as a new user it's hard to get on hardware that needs more tuning. 
Printed obts are not rectilinar
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
That seems elephant foot phenomena
Check this web for more info and how to improve it
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#elephant