neotko
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Posts posted by neotko
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Super. They have the od and 5N force
thanks a lot! -
Well everything seems to be working now, but for this to trully work I need to put full pen springs or find where to buy this size springs on a harder material. Also I need to change the design of the fan area to make room for spacers. At least the holder for the heads works perfectly after doing some last and hopefully final adjustments.
I don't know how many hours I have put into this, can't wait to have it finally working...
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Small update. The titanium had a desviation of the inner angle. Ok after a heavy test the pla did not stick. It can be removed by just pushing it. It will take me another 2 weeks or so to have a proper prototype but yeah tugsten coating makes pla to not stick. I'll post videos and temperature screens when I get the propper prototype.
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Just in case someone it's interested, Titanium TC5 coated with tungsten disulfide ws2 don't work. The pla sticks to it like glue and jams in 10-15mins. On the other side, the heat outside the peek (tested on umo+) goes from 150-160 externally to 105-110C. Expensive test, but worth the try
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On my UMO+ 1.75mm E3D drips much less than ultimaker-kind nozzles.
You could try to increase the tool change retraction on S3D (I think it's on advanced) and maybe add an extra extrusion for the pickup to compensate the filament lost on the drip. Ofc a priming tower should work. Also, since there frontal area it's almost lost when dual, you could add the priming tower there as a standard. You could pre-render the gcode and copy-paste the tower and make it render it every time after picking the block.
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I'm sure that this isn't your problem but on my mod I had understrusion for a long irritating day and in the end was that the bowden clamp replica (3d printed) was 0.12mm bigger than the molded plastic. I had to use a low speed rotating device to clean evenly (that's what I get for using cheap pla) and now it's extruding perfectly. I think that the clamp was doing more force than the necessary to hold the bowden and that added extra tension to the feeder.
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Yeah put temp sensor 20 if you use pt100. 0 it's for disabled.
With that changes you should be ok.
I found how to s3d tool change script. It's quite easy. I will write the correct stuff this sunday (I hope) but it's something like:
EDIT. Deleted code that was wrong
I didn't have more time to test since I'm having a problem with one of the extruders... But that script will give you the idea I think.
Edit: Ok just 5 mins in front of this and now I get it. It's really really easy
(Don't use this numbers ofc it's just for the preview and etc etc) But it does work, check the preview on S3D
{IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F15000 X100 Y100
{IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F7000 X0 Y100
{IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F15000 X0 Y0
{IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F7000 X100 Y0
;
{IF NEWTOOL=2}G0 F15000 X190 Y100
{IF NEWTOOL=2}G0 F7000 X190 Y0
{IF NEWTOOL=2}G0 F15000 X100 Y0
{IF NEWTOOL=2}G0 F7000 X100 Y30
Now I just need to do the full movement instructions, and should work.
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To use that feeder on umo+ you need a different stepper motor with 400steps and 0.8 angle. The same that um2 uses. For fans depends if you want to keep the aluminium or change it all. There are plenty options on youmagine
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Well tiny update.
So far the 'springs' on the head where on a bad positioning that caused a leak because the white teflon isolator changed the angle.
The solution (I should have think of this first) was easy, just by moving the springs directly on the upper part of the wood, so the isolator it's always being pushed onto the peek). Like this:
Also used a third spring on the back screw to help with stability. The head it's printing like a charm, after 12h prints no leaks and perfect prints.
I'm also finishing a better hangar, so it can be removed and used as one need's it. Without any american tape or similar, and if you want to secure it you can use the lateral holes of the end stop to combine it with the endstop. Anyway it's a semihard fit, and it's really easy to remove.
Also finished soldering the 4 fans for the two heads and did a full clean up on how the cables go through. I hope to be able to run some two head tests this weekend, but I need to learn how to script the head change on Simplify3d or do it manually. Any head changes I do by the ulticontroller work and work really nice.
I'll try to post the stls next week as soon I don't find any other critical bug on the design.
Anyone have experience scripting the tool change on Simplify3d?
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Maybe build a thermal sensor system outside running from an external source and set a swith that connects to the 2 panic switches that make the um2 turn off any activity
http://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/6578-ultimaker-2-mainboardsafety-jumper
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You could try saving the gcode, editing the settings (I think it writes the cura config on it right) and then import settings from the gcode?
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If you want a easy firmware creator (just in case you plan to change something in the future), you could try the @Amedee firmware generator, I works like a charm
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On S3D you can 'overload' the thick walls to push more filament if the 3d design isn't 0.8 wall thickness. Cura will try it's best to fill the gap if the design isn't of that thickness. But we can't see that without the cura layer img.
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There's a simple solution for the head heigh if the Ultimaker method doesn't work for you.
Get a pen, cut the spring in half and place it on the upper part of the aluminum peek holder (the one that it's 4mm tall and has 8mm tall because the screw areas. I just did yesterday on my mod to allow me adjust 2 heads that have 0.7 different height (probably because one peek has many hours and the other it's brand new). This way, with the springs you can do a more selective tension adjustment by using the upper screws. But for UMO standard head you should add 4 springs, since you don't want the heads to have a bad angle. If the springs you use are 'too tall' you can cut them a bit.
BTW I have not tried this on standard UMO dual extrusion, I done it on my working progress magnet changer based on the idea and designs of Foehnsturm -> Link to the forum post
Anyhow if you unscrew the tube/nozzle yes, it will leak for sure.
EDIT: Don't try this on the standard UMO head block. The only way to make it work it's by adding something to keep the preasure of the screw... It's hard to explain, but if you put the springs where I said it will make the ptfe isolator to move and that will make a leak (inside the peek). So to have perfect adjust on dual heads (on the kit experimental) you can only play with the upper screws. The springs could work, but doing more changes than what I said.
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Arhh can't edit on mobile. Ok this it's the video of the head aligment with the spring
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Well. Basic head alignment does work. Got a pen and took the spring and cut it in half.
Atm I'm printing with the lowest height to check if affects or fails and so far everything works. Next step assemble the hangars and get my hands on the gcode.
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I see. I will try the springs idea this week. Other idea I had this morning was that using a caliper and add a z+ or z- when the head changes? The problem it's that one could hit the bed but since they are on the bay it shouldn't be much throuble. If I get free time this week I'll give it a go but I still need to solder x2 fans for the second head. Also my fan design it's suffering from pla meltdown (they hold for now) but I need to move them a bit away, or maybe I'll just ditch them and finishing my crossflow fan setup.
The good stuff it's that the head design it's totally modular and easy to replace the parts. Adding springs or removing fans it's just a minutes operation. And it's printing nicely. So now I need to focus on the gcode, drilling a new hole for the y endstop and getting the spring idea working.
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Well the hangar/bay design it's much better now.
Just manual docking. The movement it's clumsy because I was moving the heads with just one hand to hold the phone.
Also while finishing assembling the second head now I have a 0.7 height difference. I think it's the peek (one it's new and the other it's heavy used).
I think I'll search m4 size aluminium springs and add them between the wood that holds the ptfe isolator so with the upper screws it can be 'recalibrated' to solve both head heights. Now I need to find the springs.. Umm maybe with the spring of a pen and cutting it in 3 parts. Other solution it's to manually file the wood that holds the isolator but don't seems like a hood idea on the long run.
I have changed the docking bay to have a little curved space so the cables don't push the head.
Foehnsturm how do you adjust both heads? Are they exactly the same or you have any alignment mechanism?
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Single head printing. So far the head holds just fine. Printing new hangar/bay hopefully this one will work and I'll be able to show a video of the head changing.
So nothing exciting to see just yet.
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Well at least finally they send the items, can't wait to see your version.
I can't really show a video of the changing. I just did the basic change 'by hand' moving the heads. I just finished a new hangar I'll check the small head printing something more than just a small flat area, will be a nice test also to see if works at 50-80mm/s or if the head flys XD (I hope it doesn't...)
One good think (I' think) it's that the UMO+ has the second extruder on the oposite direction, so the bowden 'push' should be fine for each extruder.
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I'm stuck on the head changer. The magnets have enough force to hold the head, and I can print ok (I just finished installing everything 4h ago). I think my 'small' design can't be this small. I need to put more magnets, to have a better 'catch' of the head and I need to change fully the dock station because the side sliders of umo and maintly because the tension of the bowden. If I place the parks on the end of the machine the bowden pushthem, so I changed the orientation to put in on the front and it holds better but my hangar has many flaws now that I see it with the head.
I need to make a helper like the one foehnsturm did to push the head on the hangar and propably I will have to redesign some stuff to use a stronger magnet.
At least I can print with the mod
(one head for now).
EDIT: Lol it works, I was using one of the 3 bad versions of the hangar... My desk it's a mess of prototypes. Well I still need to change the hangar, but not the lower part, just the upper area so the left-right sliders go in just a bit. The magnet now that I'm using the correct bay works fine, but not superb. Good think it's that when using one head the printing area it's 197x196mm, so if you take one head outside you can use almost the same area. With 2 heads I think it will be like 175x175 or something alike.
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As far as i know the x/y rods are the same mm and uses the same bearing. It should work specially if you change the sliders (um2 use plastic injection parts that are smaller than umo). Also you would need umo+ For the electronics to use the same pt100 that the heater uses (or more modding?) and that head would need 5v fan to cooldown. The slidders I think they need more modding since the endstop it's designed to be somewhere different.
Also the ptfe they sell I'm sure isn't the cool glass coated that ultimaker sells (you can buy it from them).
If you want to do this it's propably better to buy the parts on china and get an olsson block instead of that um2 copy.
In the end I don't think you would gain any quality but could be fun
I plan to make my second umo+ with the black slidders of um2 and use my minihotend mod to gain a bit cm.
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Thinking change from direct drive to bowden. Change to pen, laser, cnc (3d?) Mill. Whatever... maybe with coil, magnets and a parking system... i would love that.
Read this post then
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Perhaps a WiFi exension in combination with an app for your phone/tablet....
Lasercut module would also be very nice.....
You can have that already I think search L-CHEAPO
thanks a lot!
1.75mm quick release for hotend
in Coffee corner
Posted · Edited by SandervG
I got 2 for 1.75mm from china. If you want info about the original check the github