neotko
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Posts posted by neotko
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Well seems everything works. Hopefully soon I'll have more time to do a print. So far everything it's ready.
My head change sequence for Simplify3D
{IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F8000 X4.8 Y50 ; Prepare to Park 1 on Left Hangar {IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F8000 X4.8 Y0 ; Park 0 on Left hangar {IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F8000 X177.2 Y0 ; Go Kiss Extruder 0 on Right Hangar {IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F8000 X177.2 Y50 ; Extruder 0 ready {IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F8000 X177.2 Y50 ; Prepare to park 0 on Right {IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F8000 X177.2 Y0 ; So long a thanks for all the fish. {IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F8000 X4.8 Y0 ; Searching Extruder 1 on Left Hangar {IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F8000 X4.8 Y50 ; Extruder 1 readyAlso to make the 'home all axes' I had to change it, but I will have to write a proper parking on the end of gcode so there's no mix and I always know that the main clamp it's empty at the start.
I tryed to make some gcode files and run them via print from sd but they move weird, so I did the final movement tests via Printrun and it's loading/unloading nicely.
The 2 little blue tapes down the hangars are the parts that 'raise' the hangars 2mm, enough for the heads to never touch the bed.
Again a boring video. As soon I print something I'll put some music
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Also check that the 2 security jumpers are well inserted.
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I'm finally very very happy with my mod
I was able to solve (a bit pure luck) the head z level by trying to fix other think.
After a gazillion different designs to make a solid hangar for this small head, I did this:
The little 'curve up' of entrance let's me ramp up the head a very safe 2mm. More than enough to solve most of the z errors from the 2 heads.
Check this small (boring) video. The heads on Z 0 go up when parking. This means that I could totally remove the springs and make a perfect z calibration by software. For my setup I'll leave them for now untill I do the first print. Hopefully I should be able to upload all the stls and assembly small tutorial in 2-3 days if there's no futher surprises. But so far, I'm soooo happy.
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If you really need this there's a tool called fuse. I was about to buy it weeks ago but so far I don't really need it and it's a 60€ tool.
I reqded some reviews and it needs learning to make a clean join.
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Well some progress..
This is the fan cap I was using 1 week and a few days, printing the new (hopefully) final magnet head.
The upper and lower area was cover with heat shield, there's a slight deformation on the circle area that was near the ptfe coupler. But the mm and angle was intact. So the shield works, but could work better:
Check the circled area, that's where the ptfe coupler was. It has deformation from the heat of the ptfe coupler.
Ok..
Now the new fan cap, I'm really really happy with this design. Not only it prints really easy, also it's working like a charm on the heat department.
This design has bigger 'wings' that allowed me to place more heat shield on the wings (it's the area that got more deformation on my beta 1). So far the 15h of print, with the new magnets 150C and the slightly taller design, it's printing just like the stock head. Much better control now that I'm using the laser cut wood. The springs I bough where a hitandmiss, the ones from my pens are working much better.
This is the new assembly 3-6 minutes into the print, just finishing the first layers. Fan's where on minimal (my fans start at 174 and they where at 178+/-)
And this it's the heat almost 2h into the print.
Right now I think the design it's finished, but I wan't to test 2 or 3 ideas I have before giving up the idea of using the end of the machine. The Bowden does too much force when it’s there and the head it’s pushed down. I was able to make a hangar that did old the head, but then once it was inside it was stuck. Tryed using some lube and then it was so slypery that again was pushed down by the bowden.
If the hangars fail there are 2 options left.
- Change the extruders to the sides or to the front (not a beautifull idea).
- Since I use 1.75mm filament I could change the bowden to a smaller 2-4mm bowden setup to lower the force by ‘alot’ (in theory).
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Maybe better an antimicrobial filament? http://imakr.us4.list-manage.com/track/click?u=489103880cde56c6dab9bd1bc&id=d00d94bb44&e=bf9047f661
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Window cleaner works fine for me.
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Just one think about magnets. Probably you got some neodymium magnets and those start to loose power at certain degrees. Just check the weight and force because normal neodymium loose strength (forever) starting at 80C.
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Well so far the new magnets work nice, but it's a little pain in the butt to fit them, since the space it's small and they are 10x5,5x2mm magnets, this needs a tiny hand and patience but the Araldite crystal epoxy hold's them nice, one didn't stick because forgot to 'scratch it' (it helps a lot) but so far so good.
The fan area (not my new design but should happen the same) it's making really hard to print a large first layer with minimal fan, it flexes just enough to make it problematic. I had to place some blue tape to push it out but I'm not happy with the heat there, even with the heat shield (it's very thin), probably with wool heat shield would work, but it's too bulky. So...
This it's what I plan to order in aluminum (I'm waiting for the quote but I suppose that won't be cheap).
It's totally based on the um2 fan cap, but changed the inner area to make the air get symmetrically to my alu peek holder. Also I'll use also 30x30 fans, the good news (for me and maybe for @Ultiarjan it's that I found some cheap 30x30 fans that are 24v (um2 uses 12v in series and that's something I don't want to play with for 4 fans). Not sure if the holes will fit but that can be easily changed with some drilling or a printed part.
So for now I'll try to finish the new head and my 40x40 fans on my current setup but hopefully this fans should work.
I plan to attach the alu modded cap with a printed part. Also won't be using steel but aluminum, to improve heat dissipation.
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45 grades not C. Sorry can't edit on forum on phone
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Try to print it in 45C and slow
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@neotko do you know if it matters for the magnets durability if you leave the head on or off the pickup while not in use ?
On my camenra tests the outside magnets that are not inuse go up to 60C (the ones that are on the air from head and main changer). Ofc they go to 50 when fans are on. That why I think it's important. For pla I don't think it will matter but on stuff that needs 100C/+ bed the heat will make aome dmg. And some of that materials don't like fans. In your case it won't matter for the pla since you must have the 5V fan all the time but in theory the heat outaide ahould easyly reach 70-80 ambient. My heat shield fabric (1 page ago I think Inposted it) cut's arround 30C of that and while printing pla the upper area stays at 40C. What did worry me about N50 magnets (I'm using some right now until the new pne arrive) it's that they are too close to the margin of error.
I think in my case with the extra lasercut wood and heat shield I should be able to keep it ok.
So imo your serup should work fine but the magnets exposed to air might get dmg overtime if you print 100C bed materials.
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One question, you could connect the other fans to the led pwm, it's the same electronics. And using the 5v minifan in parallel shouldn't be a problem I think.
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Superb! I can't wait to upload mine. Congrats!
Just a note N50 magnet, the numbers mean the strength. The number means more powerfull. I mean, the maximum magnet force it's N52. But also the higher the strength the easier it's for them to loose magnet power over time because they support less ºC. The loss of magnet power it's immediate and not recuperable. So your mod might work forever or not, it just depends on what's the real minimum magnet power needed to handle the head.
Standard N grades, without some letters after the number, will start to loose power at 80C, and the higher the heat the more power they loose forever.
Some shops, increase their 'power' rounding the numbers. I used
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/calculator.asp?calcType=block
To get a real calculation.
The grades of the magnets (from that website) The second term it's the Curie temp, that's the point of instant zero magnet power. But everytime the barrier it's cross the magnet won't recover their power.
Grade Max Temp Curie Temp
N 176°F (80°C) 590°F (310°C)
NM 212°F (100°C) 644°F (340°C)
NH 248°F (120°C) 644°F (340°C)
NSH 302°F (150°C) 644°F (340°C)
NUH 356°F (180°C) 662°F (350°C)
NEH 392°F (200°C) 662°F (350°C)
I bough (not the first time and I'm still waiting for them to arrive) N45SH that can support 150C, just in case I wan't to print ABS or XT and don't get any magnet loose. But even with NH it should be more than ok.
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Well the titanium heat break with tungsten disulfide has been a huge fail.
I have some videos if someone interested but they are 25-30mins long and very boring XD
In short. Using UMO heat and a titanium TC5 WS2 coated. First 15-30secs it extrude fine, then the pla expands really fast making a jam. I tested this feeding the pla manualy without the bowden and with the bowden. In both cases the force to push the filament to extrude become too much to be able to push it. Going to 260C the force lowers but still isn't practical vs common brass heat break.
The weird think it's that after cooling everything and checking the heat break the inside was easy removed by pulling it. At least the first 6 times, then it was really 'glued' inside. I think the ws2 coating tents to get scratches that leave room for the pla to stick to the titanium. Also the heat it's really weird. It's like the heat don't go up. And while this sounds 'good' it isn't because the pla on the upper parts only goes to 120C (I did 2 days tests of 2-3h assembling and disassembling the head) recording with a thermal camera to see the heat.
So the ws2 coating tents to be erased/scratched off by the preassure of the pla expanding around the inner hole and the heat of the titanium does not work with the standard setup.
Probably a much shorter titanium could even work, but after a week of trying I give up
There's a guy in uk that made me the titanium test, he craft so nicely and also very cheap (being titanium a expensive alloy)
And this is with the coating (blueish color) inside the peek
The guy that made the part it's Pete Lidster, he does custom titanium parts for motorbikes and he it's a really really talented guy.
Note. I did the tests with a 2mm heat break, because I use 1.75mm filament, probably with 3mm it might work better the coating since it might have more 'room' to be better applied.
Coating 20 titanium heat breaks costs around 70-80 GBP but some companies ask for 250GBP for a batch.
I got the coating from http://www.ws2.co.uk (Pete helped me to find the company that did it).
Also if anyone interested I uploaded one of the test videos to youtube, It has no audio and it's 17mins long (boring) but you can see the general idea of the problems.
Video Link:
On the video you will see the titanium with a cheap peek, because I broke the 'cool' one from ultimaker.
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The PSU Ultimaker uses on UM2 are easy to buy outside, for my UMO+ (same board) I use a 280W from Mean Well with no problems at all. For a UM2GO with 160W should be enough to power a heated bed of 40W. UM2 uses the model GS220A20-R7B but with the R7B connector you can find also other watts like the model GS160A24-R7B and it's easy to buy one from mouser. I got mine from mouser and they delivered en 3 days and they paid the import taxes.
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I had some trouble the past week with the z alignment initial tests, specially when using the springs, if the angle of the head isn't very 90º the head starts to leave marks on the prints, like small extra blobs filament going to the sides of the print. That's why I bough some good quality springs and I'm waiting for the new wood to arrive (the delivery was going to arrive today but no luck since they printed it on the wrong material). On UMO it's not going to be easy, at least on my mod. The problem for going too small it's that the real tension it's done by 3 screws and one extra that need's to be adjusted by a screw attached on the bottom, because if I used the 4 screws I was going to need to make the head 5-7mm bigger. I did some tests with the 'good' springs and they are quite nice, that's also why I did another fan setup, to leave some room for the m3 washers (around 7mm dia). With the washers and the bottom screw everything seems to be ok but I have leave the design on hold until the new magnets arrive. Also the fans will have a small window of cooling for the peek area, to avoid for the head going up (also should help while printing wood afaik to keep the peek cooler).
In a perfect setup the solution for umo stock head I might be using a spring like the one that um2 uses to keep the ptfe inside the peek, but the size of the ptfe that umo/umo+ uses leaves only 1mm of area to push it and I prefer for now not to go that road unless my x4 m3 springs fail to keep everything fit while adjusting the z, just because that road would need more aluminium to keep the strong force of the spring from breaking the wood/pla.
Also, I think that the Z problem it's something that won't be much problem for others, yesterday after breaking one peek that was almost new I finally saw that it was 1mm different, also the 'melting' of the upper pla added some play from a used head to the other that it's just waiting.
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I thought of that! But the weight of the head touching the table if they ain't perfectly stable on the hangar. That's also another reason that makes me think the best area yo place the heads it's at the end of the machine. There's more room and if well places the hangar could be made on pourpose so the head it's slightly angled so the head never touches the bed. But with bowden I don't think I'll be able to doit.
But yeah if the z difference it's very small it should be gcoded. And it should not be a big difference. I wonder if using the end of the machine and make it park on a small angle could help use much wider z (and tools).
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Tryed the semi-old fan design (design 14) and seems to work fine. Installed some heat shield (it's like a fabric so it's easy to cut) and attached to the upper part to block the heat from getting on the magnet area.
[/media]This a photo of 2h into the print, the heat outside the nozzle don't leave with the fabric, but for the first layer it's better to have the fan on minimum to be safe and don't get deformation on the pla. Final versión should have to be abs or xt at least.
EDIT: Uploaded it 2 times and this %$&! forum keeps rotating it...
EDIT: Ok finnaly..
Also good stuff, printing my (hopefully) last design for the fans, easyer to print and the overhangs are getting nice air from the simetric fans (one it's deformed because didn't used the fan on minimum after 15mins trying to fix some leaking with my nozzle because bad assembly).
Today I will have the laser wood parts and next week the new 10x5.5x2mm 150C neodinimum magnets (1kilo force each and I'll use 3).
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I found that for really superb top layers the infill at 26% changes it's pattern and makes for a 'less holes' pattern that covers really sweet. On cura ofc.
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I think you could try flatlike ultiarjan says.
Make it a two piece item. With some hole for glue or a small clip-on (difficult for that size). Also if you can change nozzles using a 0.25 nozzle for small stuff it's great. To cool the print go slower or print some at the same time.
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Well the change of magnets I think it's mandatory. PLA could work also since I ordered some wood laser that will be pushing the ptfe etc. To change the magnets on my design it's really easy (I just did in 6mins befofe giving some snack to my 2year boy XD). Also changing the size I stay on the 6cm max tall (to use the umo screws) and I have changed the hangar bay so it's taller to provide better stability while parked. The problem/advantage with my design it's that it uses the space to it's maximun. So the magnets to use can't be bigger than 3mm depth. That combined with the 150C factor of magnets it's hard to get thin magnets of this kind but the web foehnsturm used has some that I have just ordered.
Anyway I think I will release the beta design since the basic idea it's easy to scale, the hangar works soo sweet and I just need to finish very minor changes. The only part that can't be printed it's the 4mm laser cut aluminium. And must be on one piece or the design assembly it's a nightmare.
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Umm I just think I'll have to modify my design all over. After reading about the degradation on the magnets at high temperatures at this web and got me thinking that my very little and strong magnets won't survive a ABS print because the heat.
I being doing some heat captures on my setup, because I'm testing some titanium nozzle at the same time. and the Upper area goes easily to 50-70C when they are on 0 movement. When the printing goes and the first layer has pass (fan starts) they stay at 45-60C. The problem isn't the magnets that are clamp, that area heats very little since it's almost closed by the magnets itself, the problem it's the exposed magnets.
I saw again the magnets that Foehnsturm uses and they are N45SH so they can go without trouble to 150C, that sure will allow for ABS print etc (but the printed material of the hanger won't survive the enclosure if the enclosure goes higher than 100+ C.
I'm going to think about getting 150C magnets (my room it's full of magnets). And probably I'll use some N44H magnet of 2mm that I can fit on my small heat.
So... let's start over XD
Btw, so far 2 weeks printing with one head on my current design (with small modifications on springs etc) and it's printing rock solid, with good quality. Main problems on ump (not um2 since you can use the full aluminum x2 to have a good material) it's that the heat goes up and up and deforms the pla. I have now one head 2mm different just because small heat deformations while doing tests (head not moving and sometimes I did forgot to put the fans on).
I think on the long therm for this mod to work on ump it might need some laser cut wood or something that might keep the heads protected from heat while on standby. I'm going to take some days to think.
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Well that would happen on practicaly any fdm printer. When changing from x material to y (being different plastics) the atomic it's just a must. Also check filament sizes (anything bigger than 3mm will stuck since ultimaker uses 2.85mm filament).
Edit. The Pla literally burns at 240C and goes brown (it's sugar based). The traces of PLA that stay on the nozzle will burn and go brown at ABS temperature (but you can use 240C for pla if you print at very high speeds but it's not recommended). The think that propably jam your brand new nozzle was that. If you go from any material to other kind, sometimes even changing brands, the best think to do always it's atomic pulls.
There's also some cleaning filaments that can be used to 'capture' any residue and leave a clean nozzle, but they are expensive compared to a simple atomic pull.
For my cleanings if I use my 3mm extruder (2.85 filament) I just use a ptfe 3mm and push it though, then lower the heat and pull to get all. This way I don't waste filament.
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UMO+ Right fan holder
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Sure. I'll try tomorrow. Also I have a version 3 that I didn't published that with a bit of tweaking could work really nice. I'll try to upload it all.