neotko
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Posts posted by neotko
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That's a perfect idea, much cheaper than cnc for sure and will do the job just as well.
For this weekend since I still have day and a half free I'm going to try to MacGyver this
That's aluminium folded from baking boxes my wife 'had' (now they are mine XD) after folding and bench vice it with one aluminium oven mold, so 2 more to go and then some drilling and should be nice. If it don't holds well I'll put some loctite 638 that can withstand 180C without problems.Edit: Bad idea never try again -
Olsson it's only for um2, on umo you have more freedom to use stock with many m6 nozzles.
Btw I found the video I saw while I was waiting my UMO+ to arrive. It's a nice video about changing nozzles, and heat, and etc. It will give you the basics really nice.
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Seems I have hit a wall.
The plywood idea was ok on my mind but after reading some documents about the heat that can withstand at more than 100C it starts to loose weight and at 150 starts to become charcoal, at 200C can combust. So not a good idea.
Anyone knows somewhere in europe than can cnc 2 small parts in aluminium?
I uploaded the pdf/step files to my dropbox if someone can give me a hand please pm with prices or if someone can point me to a good shop for this small amount, that could be superb
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tg7kft99lgjekuy/HALF-1048-A2P-A.zip?dl=0
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Seems you are right about the heat. The maximun it can support it's 150C and it losses weight. At 200C it can combust.
http://www.performancepanels.com/thermal-properties
Anyone knows somewhere in europe that can CNC two small aluminium holders (exactly the half size of the umo aluminium holder) ?
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I though I could use the bearing from my UMO, you think it's better to get a new set?. I suppose that way I could have my head ready to plug it without having to reassemble everything umm..
No the skin it's just temporary for using and removing the magnets. I just use a lighter and the skin peals so I can remove them until the final design its set. Also I think that I will use round magnets that have space for an m3-m4 to avoid the glue.
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Hi,
Maybe someone with more know-how could answer this. I'm trying to mount a head holder for the dual extruder magnetic proyect created at http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9657-a-different-multi-extrusion-approach-um-tool-printhead-changer/
My question it's... The aluminium part that it's holding the peek isolator. It's aluminium just because that area it's hot or it also plays as heat dissipation ? I ask because my thermal says it goes around 100-120C (the aluminium stays around 30-40) and if I changed it for wood I might be making a big mistake and increase a lot the chances of clogs.
Thanks
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I been fiddling with the dual extrusion basic stls trying to adapt it to umo stock heads. So far the progress it's ok.
The neodiums are fit inside the holes, that lowers the clamp power, but the neodiums have good strengh. Anyway on the final design I'll loctite them. Prolly I'll try to use neodiums that come with an m3 hole, a mix of the ones that let you have a clean clamp because the angle of the hole and the others, they will arrive on monday so will see.
The idea it's to use that 'half' cut parts that are like the wood stocks, and saw off them in half. With my spare V2 hotend pack they come 2, that should be enough for 2 stock heads. I want to use the wood ones because Peek Isolator upper part only reaches 30-50C (that's what my thermal camera tells me at least) but the body of the peek insulator reaches easyly 100-130C on the outside. So that's why I wan't to saw in half the wood parts, to have a good and safe clamp on the peek insulator.
I did a few mistakes on the measures but they are easily fixable.
Also by using just half of the wood size I saved quite a bit of space and since the clamp area it's 50cm long because the wood size I think it was a nice first approach
. Now I need to cut the wood in half and check how this holds the weight.Edit: Don't mind the print quality I printed at 9mm3 speed XD
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You could also rotate the fans so they stay stationary on the magnetic camp center. The space shouldn't be a problem since you are already using some for the second head mount
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You could also use the power from the leds to have a different fan power setup for the second head. Just in case the second head material needs different fan power and this eay you can turn the fans on/off for each head
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On my Umo+ (um2 board) and after breaking some stuff I can assure you there's no problem. On fans you can put 500milliamps max (400 to be safe). I run x2 24v fans in parallel. On the paper um2 has enoguh power for dual heads and all that. But it's really right. The heads uses 20w instead of 40w umo+ so for me I had to use a new power supply.
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It's weird that they use titanium on their nozzles for this 3d printer if it sticks. Maybe one titanium alloy that doesn't...
The printer that seems to be using it it's called Tiko, ofc it's a totally different kind of printer, but the titanium did call my attention.
"TITANIUM NOZZLE
Achieving our demanding thermal performance criteria also required the use of a one-of-a-kind aerospace-grade Titanium alloy nozzle. The nozzle minimizes conduction to the heatsink without the need for an insulating barrel. The reduced heat flux results in a nozzle that requires very little energy to maintain its temperature, making it exceptionally energy efficient."
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/tiko3d/tiko-the-unibody-3d-printer
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Guys can I drop a question? I was wondering after reading about the design of a new 3d printer in kickstarter (no news there) that what would happen if the upper throat of the heater (the heater insulator on umo and the upper barren on um2) where made of titanium. Titanium has much less thermal conductivity so (the idea that I had, and I could be toyally wrong) it's that if the heat that goes up it's less by a great % then the plastic ptfe and that other brown one, might never get around the dangerous 260C+.
I found a chinashop that can make me a few heat insulators in titanium to check this idea and I was wondering if it's crazy or good crazy?
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What machine do you use? UMO or UM2?
On umo you could unscrew the part left inside. If you had pla leaking probably was because the nozzle must be set in place cold (not fully) then heating the hotend to 150-200 you tight (no need for brute force just until it's ok).
On umo you can use many M6 nozzles. The ones from ultimaker/reprap/e3d. If you use E3D nozzles you will need to move the bed stop since the length it's different. There are a few good videos onyoutube about changing nozzles.
If your machine it's um2. Then as reibuehl said you might want to take the opportunity and get an olsson block.
The part left inside (if your machhine its the umo) the problem should be that without heat you might damage the block unscrewing it. Also get proper heat gloves. I got a small burn of 0.4mm because I didn't use it the first time I changed nozzles.
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You might want to check the Osson Block to be able to use 0.25 nozzles. That will allow you to print more detailes for small objects. Or faster prints with an 0.8
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I bough one on china, just to have an spare one, 120€ but it did come without the power button
also I have not turn it on so it's more like the 'schrodinger' board, good quality has a price.What happens to your board? I broke some transistor by playing with the board and I got a lot of help on this forums and finally I went to a guy that had all the equipment and did the repairs for much less than a new board.
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IRobertI feeder design (the one for um2) has very nice supports and just by looking at his design you can learn a lot. https://www.youmagine.com/users/iroberti
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The "problem" not biggie it's that non 16mm nozzles hit the nozzle. Also weird on the umo+ BOM the fan shrout design it's the old one and there's not full design (probably because they changed it). So far my overhangs look great (but I use dual fans). By the (with the hand, nothing fancy) the air goes directly to the printed area and less to the sides. I thing they changed it because it cools better. I plan to make a copy but 7-9mm shorter on pla/xt for other nozzles.
If you want I can make better shoots with a caliper on the side so you can make yours. But I can't promise speed cos right now I'm trying to mod marlin so I can have 2 pids for the extruders.
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Official (it is right?) BOM of Ultimaker Original Plus it's up on github
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker-Original-Plus%C2%A0
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Yeah been there, done that
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The 24v I mean it's the connector that the umo+/um2 board has for a board fan. I'll talk to my friend to see if he can build me something. I have like 1% knowledge about electronics
. Anyway with this weekend new design for second fan and with the new aluminium cap tht ultimaker sent me and the x2 24v fans I'm starting to get near perfect overhangs. I just want them to be perfect Thanks for your input
Edit. Yeah I did a typo
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Well both hotends are the same. The think it's that the heater that comes with the dual extruder experimental kit seems to be different than the one that comes with the umo+ because I'm getting that the hotend 2 if set to 210 it ramps (visible faster than the hotend 1) then it goes around 230 and then it slowly goes down, also when it losses 1 degree it goes up like 5C before going down again, I did some google prior asking and saw that there was an 'autotune' to be done on hotend 1/2 (saw on reprap forums). I didn't knew that I could not do it because actual firmware. So both hotends are identical, except the second uses the heater from umo dual kit and seems it's different than the one that umo+ stocks, so they heat at different paces.
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Oh that means I can't calibrate the extruders (for now) so I should avoid going higher than 240C (because it ramps easily to +20C the target temperature)? Anyway I can wait my hope for dual extruders are on the fohensturm proyect
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Btw. Can I connect the crossflow fan to the umo+ 24v (not the fans, I don't want to break my new thermistors). And maybe place a voltage regulator (external) so that I could manually set the fan speed? Sorry to ask but I almost break my board and I don't want to break other area of the board
. The connector don't seems to have thermistor so It should be just full power all the time right?Other Idea I have it's to use some design like the design that IRobertI proposed and get x4 40x40x10 24v fans connect them in parallel to the fan connection. Each fan it's 54milliamps so it should be fine?? I mean the bc817 it's 500 so going to 200 should be technically ok?
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Anyone knows the correct pid for the umo heater on umo+? The default values makes it ramptoo fast and then slow down. I suppose I should run the pid autotune right?
Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
gr5 I order 10 (minimun amount) of titanium tc4. In two weeks or so I'll be testing it on my umo. It this works it might help for the heat to no go up on materials like wood that jam with retractions.