neotko
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Posts posted by neotko
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The crossflow fan has just two cables (+\-) and no pwn control. When I had the transistor dead was after a minute or so testing speeds with the ulticontroll. The crossflow starter at 40-60/255 and at 255 it literally could make the filament fly.
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Good advice! I completely forgot to mention that...
The QG30 draws over 600 mA which is WAY too much for the UMO electronics to handle. The standard fan is more like 50mA.
I'm using custom electronics which are in the making right now.
Guys I didn't even did check this, I just though this was my amps but yesterday I was about to cut the cable of the crossflow fan to pack everything and then I saw the sticker.
How come a 335mA 24V device, can kill the transistors of my Umo+ 2.1.1 board? Its very very well underspecs, so what does that means, that the error wasn't mine but of the umo electronics? And also, if the V/mA are more than 'underspecs' why did the transistor died?
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Maybe it's titanium with tungsten disulphide?
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Hi
I just love Cura combine, it's there any other software that can do that with stls and export them as stl? I mean I love Cura, but sometimes I need to control infill % or change the angle of supports/etc and my other program to print isn't not even close as good as cura on the fix-stl department.
I use mac and I have netfabb but even that don't fixes the stl as good. I don't mind if the program works for windows since I can just run that too.
Thanksss
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Yeah the electronics of um2 will let you work with that diamond nozzle as far as I know to use two extruders isnt the problem. Ultimaker choosed not to lauch 2 extruders becuase the quality and heat but if you make your own mount that should work. Also that extruder uses one heater only right? That mens you could put a 40w heater (max of the stock power supply since um2 uses 20w heaters).
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Added a v2 version
New Version V2.
- Based on the original desings of the Metal Fan Cap from UMO+ that can be found on ultimaker github at https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker-Original-Plus/tree/master/1501%20Print%20Head%20Fancap%20Meta...
- The 3dm files are much more editable so you can make your 'fan area' freestyle.
- Cleaned the clamp area to be much smaller and much more tight to the aluminium.
- I recommend to add a small strip of blue tape between the alu and the printed if you print it on pla, that will give enough air so it don't deforms.
Edit:
Just run a overhang print test, not extrictly a 'test' but a print I'm doing.
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If anyone interested on adding an extra fan on UMO+ without removing the aluminium cap...
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/umo-extra-right-fan
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I come from davinci too. On umo+ happens the same (but I just can turn the extruder manually. Cura retracts 5 at the end of a print and extrude 3 at the start (check Gcode start/end) It's normal to not push filament just at the start. I like this since it leaves only the minimum on the head cooling after a print and at the start of a print it's always good yo use a brim or a skirt. You can change the start gcode con cura on expert settings and adjust the numbers as you see fit. I changed mine to retract 15 at the end of a print. This way I can always change the filament without heating the nozzle. And I just push it manually at the start of a print. You could change the start to push more at the start changing that.
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Well finally found a company that could cut my 4mm aluminum. I'll have 4 units 'hopefully' on friday. I have also take the time to improve my design and make it 2cm smaller. Also the distance between hotends will be just 2-3cm (more or less) different from the dual extrusion experimental kit. Also because the head it's 2,5 shorter on a side I think the print area loss will be minimum, and if only one head it's used it should increase it. I think I'll also post a single head solution for the stock hot end. Now I'm trying to find the best solution for the fans, and probably I'll go with 30x30x10 fans x3, one with the main area and one on each hotend.
What's the best glue to stick the neodymium magnets to the pla? I have superglue, glue for plastics, ptfe binary, wood glue (this one sure isn't any good) and a glue gun (that for what I saw googling won't work since the heat can kill the magnet). Should I buy other glue?
Edit: I also have Loctite 638...
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Just one question. Since the 'serial' setup isn't the best way to go, why Ultimaker does it on the UM2? What can happen if one of the fans die while printing over night and the other gets 24v? Does that mean that UM2 should have 24v bolt parallel fans or zeners like Zoev89 suggested?
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Hi,
I tried to find find a lasercut+wood shop without much success, some don't have this kind of wood (absolutely non in spain has this wood + lasercut.
Anyone knows a europe laser cut that already worked with ultimaker laser cut files? Or if anyone give this service could send me a msg?
Thanks!
Solved
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Maybe be the feeder needs some cleanning and tension checking. Wtry cleanning the round metal (drive) and check the tension. Ofc It can be other stuff but I lost 3 days checking/cleanning nozzles/etc and in the end was a feeder problem
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The only two gcode controlled pwn connections on um2 (as far as I know) are led and fan yeah.
For just pwn there's a 24v (designed for board cooling fan). But can't be controlled it's always on.
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I got s3d since 4months ago. It's quite nice on doing some stuff. The only part I hate it's that it don't heals the fast stl as good as cura. But it has some very nice features. I use it for good fine prints. For print and run I go cura
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The 5V I don't think it's a problem since that will go in parallel to the 5V exit of the board and that area don't have transistors etc. The fan/led exit has that power control (to control speed/etc) so that it's more sensitive.
I don't think that (for what I have been reading) that it should be much a problem to do what I think. At worst the fan might die if one of them it's off. Since all the amps it's way far from the transistor limit. But for stability the zeners might be a must.
I think that to go on the 'safe' I'll just go with x4 24v fan in parallel. I was thinking about 12v fans because I wanted to use 25x25x10 fans, and that ones are very hard to find in 24v. I'll just jump to 30x30x10 on 24v. 0,5cm should not be a big issue.
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Hi,
I'm thinking of using x4 25x25x10 fans for my mod setup for A different multi-extrusion approach - UM tool / printhead changer
The think it's that, because I already burned some transistors in the past I think it's better to ask around before burning something again
(sorry I'm hyper noob on the electronics/voltage area).I want to plug x4 fans of 12v to my UMO+ 24v connection. To do this do I need to connect 2 pairs in serial in parallel? I mean x2 fans in serial and both pairs connected in parallel.
Something like Daid said on this post to connect 12vs to 24v
I mean this:
It's that correct?
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On paper the titanium nozzle it's one of the things that save cash on ptfe, heat breaks and fans. According to they kickstarter they have solved a few things very well, the heat for pla etc. Anyway for small long time prints seems to be really promising.
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How you secures the mk8? I though about doing this weeks ago but all the motora I found didnt had or the connector or the metal was rounded. Did you dremel a bit to make it flat on the screw for the mk8?
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I see. Well the think its that the way it clamps in and out it's a slide movement, so I think something like C would hit when the head parks when it changes the angle that makes the magnets loss strength so they can get separated from the main magnet changer. I think the use of B rotated should help make the vertical forces disperse to the main changer. Anyhow on my mod for umo I placed 2 millimetters that actually rest on the upper part and the lower part also, so the up/down forces are always transfered to the main area. At least that's my theory
I think there's a point where too much magnet force can be a problem, clearly foehnsturm it's on a sweet spot, his prints videos show real repeatable accuracy. I think that he solved this on a very elegant way.
Edit: Well after changing the clamps I saw why I used also the same kind of clamps, it's because overhangs. You have holes on a side and overhangs on the other, and in my case I think one part I could manage to change so it don't need supports but the main clamp area has holes and that thinks to ajust, so unless you print in two parts and glue, that kind of helpers won't help much, at least not for my early design.
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Well I had to uninstall the alu fan holder to put some e3d nozzles. This cap does not work well with this size nozzles. And my old cannibalized fan + printed fan, it's doing much better job at overhangs. I need to print a robot, but so far they are quite ok.
My Cannibal setup:
And as promised I got some measures of the fan cap 2.0 just in case someone want to do something with it.
And in PDF just in case you want to check the numbers faster or the photos, in my dropbox
https://www.dropbox.com/s/am2xzkg0cdsneg7/alufanholder20umo%2B.pdf?dl=0
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I order them from makertronics.co.uk - Linear Bearing LM6LUU 6mm Long Bushing
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Once I cleanned my leaking headblock (when I learned to mount/unmount nozzles) with high preassure air from a can. Because it's hot it just flys out.
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I like cone B since it might get more x/y as you say. Also the cones need to have some 'slippery' so they disconnect on a smooth way. I like your B cone. I'll try that for me second part of the designs as soon as I find a company that can make me some aluminium. There's not even one online shop that can just buy/pay fast like the shop foehnsturm pointed. A shame that shop don't delivers to spain :(. Also I think for the final design a propper cnc part would really help to calibrate the heads small differences.
This monday more magnets arrive. I want to try the circled ones with m3 holes (easy/fast to screw). Also got some bearings on the way like Macua85 said, good idea to be able step back in just a few minutes.
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Try again eith a raft. Material compression it's more noticeable on large areas specially if the infill was high (more material more tension while cooling).
(sorry I'm hyper noob on the electronics/voltage area).
The crossflow fan approach
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Anyone knows if something like this could work connecting this between the crossflow fan and the board direct 24v output to the fan? http://www.aliexpress.com/item/6V-30V-6A-Reversible-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-PWM-Controller-Switch-PWM-Regulation-Fan-Control-for/32221565091.html