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Torgeir

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Posts posted by Torgeir

    How to update UM2 firmware

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Hi Simon,

     

    You may have a problem with the USB to Serial conversion, to fix this it is better to use Arduino.

    Here is some picture s of how to do it:

     

    When setting up Arduino select card type first. Select tools, then card type.

    Arduino_1.thumb.jpg.a3c0989514a6b98d6cdbde296819c7ce.jpg

     

    Next, tools again and then Port. Here it's show only Com 1.

    Arduino_2.thumb.jpg.9edfa89eeaf4a507d585c95cd9655cba.jpg

     

    Now you connect your printer and you should get this -but maybe another com port number.

    Arduino_3.thumb.jpg.d50dd3bf8852c4f62978ad9804729d7e.jpg

     

    The above see your printer, but it is not connected.

     

    But when you select the printer it will connect, shown like this.

    Arduino_4.thumb.jpg.a48beef090e133c6b7119b1829692d08.jpg

     

    This example is with my UM2 ext.

    You should be able to use this one..

     

    When you see it connect, then exit Arduino and try Pronterface.

     

    Good luck.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    Filament not extruding

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Edit of text.

    Hmm, I'll use to think that if small issues added together, they may lead to an error, but here it is still a massive under extrusion..

     

    Just come to think about an issue on the German treads in here, this was a drawing of a house, an overview of a floor.

    This had sign of severe under extrusion at several places, much check was made to the printer.

    However, all ended up in adjusting some critical parameter in the slicer -Cura..

    So be aware of these types of issues and be sure to use standard profiles or try printing an old tested test model that has been stored back then.

     

    -But when we look at your first picture in this tread, -that the skirt or brim line is broken up and this is -"signaling" a flow/feeding problem at the extruder -unless Cura can be adjusted to do so (but I do not think so).

    So the question @Smithy asking is essential for further analysis.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

    Filament not extruding

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    More info.

    Hi Adam_UL,

     

    You need to clean out the "old" plastic partickle's out of the bowden tube, -this as they increase the friction in the tube and increase the "drag forces" when pressure is needed to feed the filament. This pressure is kind of high when printing first layers and your feeder cannot feed properly due to this.

    It's very important to clean the feeder to prevent those partickle entering the bowden tube.

    A clean bowden tube will have much longer service life.

    You can use water(then dry) or air, some even use mechanical stuff as a "little" piece of rag, -but not too much as it's to easy to get it stuck in here..  (Push it through by using filament.)

     

    Good luck

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    Infinite Aquasys 120

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    Sorry to hear this, just come to think about how did you update, using USB or lan?

    I've learned in here USB is better/safer for update..

     

    But if you tried all this, maybe better to prepare a logfile from the printer.

    This file have lots of information.

     

    Good luck.

     

    Torgeir

    Ultimaker 2+ Löcher in den Wänden

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    Hallo Beks,

     

    Auf Ihren Bildern sehe ich einige Probleme, erstens ein Zeichen von zu wenig Extrusion, zweitens hat Ihr Drucker ein mechanisches Problem auf einer der Achsen (diesen vertikalen Linien) und schließlich auf der Oberfläche der Wand im Allgemeinen. Ich weiß, dass weiße Objekte nicht einfach zu fotografieren sind. Hier gibt es also ein paar Fragen zu stellen: Ist dies ein Standard-UM2 ohne Upgrade oder Änderungen? Ok., Da dies ein großer Druck ist, sehen Probleme von hier zu einem kleineren Druckobjekt möglicherweise nicht gleich aus. Wenn Sie das Modell beim Drucken betrachten, welcher Teil des Objekts zeigt auf Sie?

     

    Vielen Dank

     

    Torgeir

    Slice Hollow part with open end

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Text error.

    Hi @pander1405,

     

    Took a while this, Cura did not cope with this issue. So there where two options, Meshmixer (or alike), or just remove that gcode parts that made this inside floor.

    Don't work much with Meshmixer because modifies with this tools sometimes makes more work.

    But as you've spent much work in order to have this ring inserted, I'll think you better have your model as you've modify it..  As there was only parts of four layers that has to be removed, I did just that. I'm a big fan of NC Viewer (v1.13), that's really nice to use as it can work with many code types. Together with Notepad++ (v7.9), a standard Notepad in windows and of cause with Cura 4.7.1 you can do pretty much..  As Notepad++ and NC Viewer have same reference showing the gcode just the same, is a must..

    When modifying in NC Viewer, you MUST store the changes immediately after change. If not, NC Viewer will fill inn the missing parts when you start analysis of the object.

     

    Here is how I did it:

    Last cmd (command) in your gcode file, just before starting printing one yellow ring with infill.
    This you can see in Cura when viewing (play) gcode file from layer 25.

     

    1/26-30895, meaning start of gcode part that's making the top layer filled inside your object.
    2/26-31179, meaning stop of the above gcode part -including this line..

     

    The print head return to same point it moved from, to make the first infill top of the four
    individual that's contain the gcode parts to be removed from the actual layers.

    There is four layer to modified by removing this "inserted" infilled "bottom", as pr. Cura def.


    NOTE WELL:  WHEN REMOVING CODE PARTS IN HERE, YOU MUST START AT THE LO END FIRST.

    IE. FROM LINE NUMBER 35289 TO 34998 (IN LAYER NUMBER 29), THEN 28 AND SO ON.

     

    This is because all numbers references below will change, but not the one above.

    This reference numbers is only valid for your gcode file; "CE3_Tree_per_model.gcode", before modification!
    After modification I named the file; "CE3_Tree_per_model_Mode_1.gcode" (Both files are included in the zip file).

     

    ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.7.1 and ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code


    -----------------------------Lines above here must not be changed---------------------------
            30894 G1 X114.7 Y159.349 E1746.09387  ;  Layer on tree before first circle and infill.
    1/26-30895 G1 F2700 E1741.09316  ; Start of first layer (1/26) with (1) circle and infill.
    -----------------------------Lines in between here to be deleted-----------------------------------ok
    2/26-31179 G1 F300 Z5.4 ; Finished first layer part with a circle (1) and infill.
            31181 G0 F9000 X114.172 Y158.814 Z5.4; Next continued layer after removal of first infill.

     

    -----------------------------Lines in between here must not be changed------------------------

     

            32258 G1 X114.47 Y159.256 E1882.41152 ; Layer on tree before second circle and infill.
    1/27-32259 G1 G1 F2700 E1877.41152 ;  Start of second layer (1/27) with (1) circle and infill.
    -----------------------------Lines in between here to be deleted-----------------------------------ok
    2/27-32552 G1 F300 Z5.6 ; Finished second layer part with a circle (1) and infill.
            32554 G0 F9000 X113.942 Y158.721 Z5.6 ;  Next continued layer after removal of second infill.

     

    -----------------------------Lines in between here must not be changed------------------------

     

            33635 G1 X114.24 Y159.163 E2018.68156  ;  Layer on tree before third circle and infill.
    1/28-33636 G1 F2700 E2013.68156 ; Start of third layer (1/28) with (1) circle and infill.
    -----------------------------Lines in between here to be deleted-----------------------------------ok
    2/28-33919 G1 F300 Z5.8 ;  Finished third layer part with a circle (1) and infill.
            33921 G0 F9000 X113.713 Y158.627 Z5.8  ; Next continued layer after removal of third infill.

     

    -----------------------------Lines in between here must not be changed------------------------

     

            34997 G1 X114.01 Y159.069 E2154.837  ; Layer on tree before fourth circle and infill.
    1/29-34998 G1 F2700 E2149.837 ; Start of fourth layer (1/29) with (1) circle and infill.
    -----------------------------Lines in between here to be deleted-----------------------------------ok
    2/29-35289 G1 F300 Z6 ;  Finished fourth layer part with a circle (1) and infill.
            35291 G0 F9000 X113.489 Y158.535 Z6 ; Next continued layer after removal of third infill.
    -----------------------------Lines under here must not be changed---------------------------------

     

     

    When I converted your project file I got a big gcode file (had to be zipped). 🙂

    CE3_Tree_per_model_z.zip

     

    Just check the slicing yourself and see if there is not anything wrong or missing.

     

    Hope this help

    Good Luck

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

     

     

    Big Problem with shell finish

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Added text.

    It appear that this support is made in the CAD program together with the model, right?

    Are you using PVA as support?  As there is sign of some oozing of white filament here, this might have something with (assuming this is PVA) the support filament to do.

     

    Just so it is said, PVA is very sensitive to humidity, more than most of the filaments there is. It might break inside the bowden tube (due to high water contamination) when it's stretched out to follow inside path. The printer might print on while the support suffer and PVA will ooze during this time. The PVA feed will be ok, but the retraction do not work. As the printing go on, the rupture will disappear and PVA will have retraction again.  However, there might be another break coming up soon.

     

    Since "those" problems arrived all of a sudden for you, I've wonder if this might happen due to season change?

    Colder shop temperature and higher humidity?

    I've seen on your prints that there is sign of PVA around, sure this is "kind" of normal, but maybe an issue to consider.

     

    As the infill just stop all of a sudden -after this nice printing (PVA), it's very difficult to trace the error just like that.

     

    Well, this is all I can come to think about for now.

    There might be some other opinion in here that might chime in.

     

    Good luck

     

    Torgeir.

     

     

    Slice Hollow part with open end

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

     

    Just select; "Color scheme", then select; "Line Color".

    Then we'll see what is making the bottom "light yellow circle part" of filaments.

    Then this might be possible to deselect in Cura.

     

    If you're using say "0.4 mm" nozzle, you may then set line width to 0.4, -then three layer make wall thickness of ~1.2 mm.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

    Slice Hollow part with open end

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Hi pander1405.

     

    Welcome in here.

     

    Here was little information for sure, -however, you tree seems to be "all solid" so you'll need to define the wall thickness.

    Maybe better to set number of wall layers single wall one, two, or what you want.

    You might need support, -or maybe this can be printed without using support.

     

    Good luck

     

    Thanks

     

    Torgeir. 

    Big Problem with shell finish

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Added text.

    Ok. I've just made a solid cylinder 50X50 mm, standard engineering - normal profile.

    Selected 0.3 mm height, single wall, no infill, no top/bottom layer and spiralize outer/contur.

     

    Printing now, time 14 minute.  

     

    Here's the project file: UMS3_Test_Cylinder_50_X_50_mm_06_10_20.3mf

     

    This is the picture of sliced and printed model:

     

    Cylinder_Sliced_50X50_UM3S.thumb.jpg.cf8949caf7eee4a76e25e69c677334d4.jpg

     

    20201006_145912.thumb.jpg.3cf131a33454ffa0de2f7b6c27ac5d90.jpg

     

    The printer moved around all the way without stopping..

    Looks very nice, no issue at all.

    The shadows is made by the curtains. 🙂

     

     

    Thanks

     

    Torgeir

    Big Problem with shell finish

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Hi Frutolo,

     

    I'll agree, this doses not looks like a mechanical issue.

     

    Just in this two picture it is looking like the filament been cooling too much down and being drawn out of the rounded path going into the model and coming toward "us".

     

    It seems to work better when the printing path going around the corner, -filament is "stretched" toward the objects corner?

     

    I'll tend to think that a strait cylinder will look "much" better on the outside, than the inside, maybe such a test is handy here?

     

    Printing with such a thick (high) line (0.3 mm) need flow and heat. Here it's looking like there is too low heat, as filament seems as start to become more dense (cooled down)..  

     

    Maybe the filament did not reach the right temperature when passing through the heat block and nozzle?

    Hmm., you said you swapped the two AA block.  How many print hour is done?

     

    There is a high demand for flow at this way of printing, -so a "small" error may have hi impact of the outcome.

     

    However, you should be able to print object with more standard "height", say 0.15 mm., as it will be easier to compare objects of such a print out.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

     

     

     

    Big Problem with shell finish

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Hi Frutolo,

     

    What i noticed is, when travelling the nozzle leaves slight oozing on the print. Sometimes the printhead travels over the shell, leaving this oozed material on the shell --> then the shell can't be printed correctly anymore...

     

    Excuse me, -but this remind me about a beginning issue with the filament. It looks there is to much filament some places and print very nice other places. This occurs when the printer slow a little down..

     

    This use to occur if/when the filament have "attracted" a little bit of moist and when printing at "some" high temperature this tend to increase the nozzle pressure just a little so there is some extra flow of filament.

     

    To test for this issue, speed up printing and reduce the print temperature. If this work, you'll need to get a filament dryer.

     

    I've had brand new filament with this kind of issue..

     

    PS: 3DBechy must be printed without using heat bed, this due to overhang close to the heat bed..

     

    Just my five pence.

     

    Thanks

     

    Torgeir

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Different speed for different printers in Cura

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Corrected text.

    Ok., Loaded your Tronxy X5SA into Cura (4.7.1).

     

    As "draft" is kind of rough and fast print this will be close to like the low quality for your printer in Cura.  Try to use your speed, layer setting etc. in here and the printing time should differ.

     

    Thanks

     

    Torgeir

     

     

    Different speed for different printers in Cura

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Hi buteomont,

     

    I've see that the print quality is set to "normal" for the left and "draft" for the right, in my experience with Cura draft always print faster than "normal" quality.

    Think there is a lot of underlying parameter differ in Cura between these various modes.(?)

     

    BTW very interesting topic.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

     

    Question about 3DSolex nozzles for UM3 and S5

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Hi Thevirus,

     

    Welcome in here.

    High temp printing, I'll kind of thinking that 3DSolex is more orientated toward abrasive material..

    So what kind of material are you thinking about?

    The temp limit for an UMS5 is 280 deg, C,. if my memory serve me right. If, we cant cross that "border" safely with this limitation. A 3DSolex don't increase this limit..

     

    However, if it is anything else just use Ultimakers recommendation for high temp printing.

     

    I'll consider (250-280) deg. C., as high temperature printing, if you go above this -we name it experimental. 🙂

     

    Anyway, good luck.

     

    Thanks

     

    Torgeir

     

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