Jump to content

Torgeir

Expert
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,247

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    26

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Torgeir

    Help with temperature sensors on bUltimaker

    in Firmware

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Edited to avoid any confusion in wording.

    Forgot this:

     

    You just need to connect the two wires from the PT100 to ground and signal.

     

    Edit: The above may only be done if you're using non floating input signal to amplifier, but best way is to put the shield to main PCB ground, -not the ground on the PT100 DC amplifier!

    For all floating ground PT100 amplifiers (as UMO & UM2), shield MUST go to main PCB ground.

     

    Sometimes there is a shielded wire and this is connected to ground.

    As this is a resistance sensor, it do not matter where you put them -no polarity problem here.

     

    Edit: The purpose of the shield is to avoid EMC problem, -to avoid temperature interference issues, both from other outside equipment -but also from other active sensors/devices inside the printer.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

    Help with temperature sensors on bUltimaker

    in Firmware

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir

    Hi Folks,

     

    On this board there is one pull up resistor (4.7 K) for each A/D input.

    You can buy an amplifier that convert PT100 signal analog to standard PT100 DC output.

    You'll find some here:

     

    https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALeKk01NuuZnoLTj1YmK_qclspsRd3fWlg:1605474655233&q=amplifier+board+for+pt100+for+UMO+1.5.7+PCB&spell=1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiPi5WUu4XtAhXvk4sKHQ0gCXYQkeECKAB6BAgMEDA

     

    You just connect it to the three point terminal, ground, +5 Volt and signal.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    Introducing: Ultimaker 2+ Connect

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi there,

     

    Congratulation with a great looking "new borne" UM2C, that's seems to have all of the important upgrades from the new S series and still using the gantry with the light weight head we knows so well!

    I'll think this is a great printer.

     

    So a question; since the air manager is an optional item, does this mean it have it's own power core and on/off switch?

     

    Will this air manager fit an UM2(+) -(maybe to wide) or UM3/S3 -(maybe to narrow)?

     

    Thanks

    Regards

    Torgeir

    lines in my print

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Hi @ldjohnson,

     

    Welcome in here.

     

    Kind of old this tread, -are we still talking about an S5 here?

    Not much to go for, -but the spiralize mode can only be used in a single wall model.

    So if you see a line in your print climbing vertically, it is what we name the "Z seam" and may occur when it is stepping up to next layer to be printed. So when you see this line the printer is not really in "spiralize-mode"..

    You may try to hide this seam by selecting "hide seam" in Cura, also you can select a given position you like the seam to be.

     

    Good luck

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    nylon problem

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Text

    Sorry to hear about this problem.

    This could be caused by several issues, -however there have been reported in here that the SD card can be faulty and send erratic data during printing.

    So first thing, try a brand new SD card, also check that the SD-slot in the printer is clean.

    The SD card and the reader is very important in an UM2 series printers..

     

    Can you show the difference between the two printed model you made (a picture side by side).

     

    Good luck

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

    nylon problem

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Hi @saksophone,

     

    Welcome in here.

     

    What you explain here is named stepper skipping, -or stalling. Simply, -there is not enough magnetic "force" to do the next step forward, so it's stepping back to the same step it is tried to leave..

     

    The first layer is very thin, so here the feeder will need to make very high pressure to extrude the filament (because of very limited space for extruding first layer)! This is the reason for the stepper is clicking -"stepping back or slipping".

     

    Actually by reducing the temperature making the issue worse, cause the density of the filament increase and making the problem worse.

     

    In your case, -I'll think the first layer just finished and resolve itself due to lo pressure demand after first layer finish.

    All this make sense and confirm -a known issue.


    In order to reduce force needed for filament drive, increase first layer height -or decrease first layer horizontal expansion.

     

    This is a very critical parameter to select, so do some test to find the sweet spot..

     

    Just go for the print temperature you selected and you'll have good addition between layers..

     

    Also consider using the "draft shield" (found in experimental setting in Cura), this will reduce warping -(keep your object from cold draft)..

     

    Also, cover up the front of your printer to keep the temperature steady.

     

    You need to keep the temperature at default around (250-260) deg. Celsius, -typical temp for Nylon.

     

    Doing so, your layer addition will stay good as the rest of your printing with nylon!

     

    Good luck

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1

    Weird TPU95A tearing problem (Ultimaker S5)

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Well, soft filament is really a demanding task for bowden tube printers.

    The art is to print with as lo resistance as possible needed for proper feeding of this kind of filaments..

    Ultimaker advice to dry TPU95A before printing, -did you perform this recommendation?

    The TPU 95A profiles are "optimised to print on a cold build plate on the Ultimaker S5", so in order to validate this you'll need to deselect core 2, -if not the heat bed will go to default 70 deg. C.

     

    Use glue, then reduce first layer width to 100% (default is 120%). Reducing nozzle pressure during first layer printing.

    Do not use high printing speed, around 30 mm/sec. You may test a little to find the best speed.

    Retraction, here use a little as possible..

     

    Well, this is my 5p.

    Good luck

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    Filament Stuck in Print Core. Can't Remove Print Core.

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Was there any error code related to this during the "heating period"?

    There have been some issues with correct seating -due to remains of filament, also dusty contacts inside the head that's attached to the cores when installed could create erratic contact problems.

    Maybe something happened here during the cleaning -"cold" pull?

    Only clean carefully with alcohol and clean rag..

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    Weird TPU95A tearing problem (Ultimaker S5)

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    More info.

    This look very strange, seems to happened just after first or second layer(?).

     

    I've put a little more brightness and zoomed in some here:

    Put in some lines to mark some issues.

    The line at the bottom shows "much under extrusion", the tree lines above; -is this something to be there "in this object"?

     

     

    Object_Snap_off_bottom_UMS5.thumb.jpg.c1b053928d57f6f33e475c18861bcf90.jpg 

     

    I'll think you need to tell us a little more how this happened(?).

    Did it occur after some change to the printer, -or in the Cura slicer, -or profiles?

    Do you use the same core for more than one type of filaments (PLA , TPU95A etc.)?

    Did this happen with other kind of print object (known good from before)?

     

    Edit: Just come to think about if this could be an issue because of some high nozzle pressure during first layers (with soft filament), this condition might lead to grinding some and low flow when pressure decrease. Actually, this might be easy to see if you study this printing in the beginning by monitoring the feed.. 

    Hmm.. Just a shot..

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

     

    Ultimaker 3E feeder problem

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Better text.

    I would use multi tread silicone insulated wire, more expensive -but will never break! (If it's done right.)

    However, check that it is this "wire intermittent issue", if not, -this can be EMC noise from the internal inverter inside the fan.

    If this is internal noise from the fan, it will need to be changed.

    Using shrink tube only makes the wire stiffer and make it break soon again.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    Filament Stuck in Print Core. Can't Remove Print Core.

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Text.

    Hi Charles,

     

    As the bowden tube is removed you can just lift up the withe locking ring, now you'll have enough space to use a "long" a tanned tip rod to grab that filament.

    Heat the nozzle to 200 deg. C., then pull it out, but be careful and not clamp the filament to hard.

    Never over temp the filament, as this might harden filament very much and destroy your print core.

     

    Anyway, good luck.

     

    Thanks Torgeir

    Controlling nylon warp with a raft of breakaway

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Added text.

    Hi John,

     

    Sure, not very much, -but did a lot of challenging nylon prints..

     

    First thing is to use "draft Shield", under experimental in Cura. This will build a single wall "heat fence" around your print, this in order to prevent "fast" cool down and warping of your print.

    Then, use diluted (in water) PVA glue on the heat bed- and let it dry until not looking wet, redo this 3 or 4 times (total).

    This will not get your model stuck that hard to the bed.. Let the model and bed be into lunched water for some time, then try carefully to remove the model using a sharp paint scrape, if it wont go let is rest -try again later and so on until it go..

     

    This method is ideal for small parts..

     

    Here is a little picture of a very known model -with draft shield -by Cura 4.8.0

    drsft_shield.thumb.jpg.726ecb9b24a2e75e3cc5af952d77d6b7.jpg

     

     

    Thanks

     

    Regard

    Torgeir

    Ultimaker 2+ noise?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi @gentlemancarrot,

     

    Welcome in here.

     

    According to you video, this sounds like a belt climbing a pulley and looks like the X axis (left right).

     

    You could move the head in X, Y or diagonally directions without power (or after a finished print) and observe the belts movement or find the source of this noise.

     

    This may occur due to an offset pulley that's forcing a belt hard to one side if the pulley and making this noise.

    Often we see black particle collected up in the bottom corner indicating where to look above..

     

    Another way is to use a program Pronterface found here:

     

    https://www.pronterface.com/

     

    Use this program when connected to the printer in order to move the head in just one axis by the time, as a detection tools.

     

    Pronterface.thumb.jpg.766dcf03fb25f125e9466e4436e6ed4c.jpg

     

    You might just try another com port, say com 6 or around this number and it should connect.

     

    Hope this help.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

×
×
  • Create New...