Torgeir
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Posts posted by Torgeir
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Hi Paul,
I've got the same printer as you have. When I'm using blue tape it is; when I'll print small object with overhang close to print bed.
If I do use heat bed on, my small prints will have "melting" marks where the sides is overhanging the bed, this is the only time I'm using tape when printing PLA. There might be other brand of filament where you are advised to use tape or other glues/additives for the heat bed.
But the best for your print here is just to have a very clean glass plate. Just wash it in hot water (so you just can "hand wash") and using a mild hand soap. When you fingers stick where ever you touch and not "slip", it is clean, now just clean with some more hot water then you're done. Just use a clean cotton rag for removing the water.
For the height adjustment I'm using an ATM note, the thermal one. Those are kind of thin, but will work very well. Just make sure you just "can feel very light" contact between the nozzle and the glass plate at the tree adjustment point. If you think your adjustment does not go well, -just do another one until it feel it is right.
When you got this thing tuned in for PLA, you never look back again.
Also, the full brim you're using would not be be needed you'll only use skirt.
We would also use to mark the glass plate, I.E. left front corner with: "Up". This can be handy as those glass plates might not be as good as needed on both sides.
Good Luck
Torgeir
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Hi Paul,
When using blue tape we do not use heat bed, cause the glue on the tape will not stick at high temperature.
Just turn of the heat bed and it will be fine.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi
Well, since you do not have any contact with you main pcb using usb, I'll think the Atmel Mega 16U2 is the one to work out first.
There is a special reset point on the pcb just to reset this microprocessor and this is jumper named JP2. There is a little problem here because there is not soldered in pins at this point, there is just two solder points. By shorting this two points, the microprocessor go into DFU mode (direct firmware upload). By fixing this, you should be able to reload (DFU) the firmware to "Mega 2560" for your printer. But ofc. that is true if all the hardware still works.
This reset might be a risky thing to do if you do not have any experience with this.
Here's a little picture of the pcb with fuse T1 and JP2 marked with yellow.
Well, that's a little more about this issue.
Good luck
Torgeir.
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Hi there,
Just had a look into the wiring of the PCB (old type UM2). Between the USB port and the U2) Atmel Mega 16U2 (USB controller) there is a small fuse T1, if this fuse fail (go open) you would not be able to connect. However, this fuse (T050) is a "self resetting" fuse that should reset itself after opening. Might be checked..
The 5 V DC from the USB is not connected for power up the processors according to this wiring.
As the UM2 use Atmel Mega 16U2 and Mega 2560 you might find this site useful:
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Hacking/DFUProgramming8U2
Not very much, but may help.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Wow, that's the biggest thing I've ever seen made by a 3D printer, amasing!
Great!
Torgeir.
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I'm using the tread function i Fusion 360. So if you're able to "tune in" the model, those tread just need a little cleaning by using a tap. Here, only using my fingers to rotate the tap. And yes, PLA and 3 mm, -but do not use to much torque here.
BTW. interesting topics.
Torgeir
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Hi cashlo,
As your scope reference is floating at +24 V DC and your scope read an "AC" signal you will only see the pulse peak signal input to the base of T1 that's receive PWM pulses at max 5 V peak from the microprocessor.
This is indicating that the transistor T1 BC817 is not working, when it is working there should be a 24 V peak PWM signal here.
BC817 is a very small transistor..
Good Luck
Torgeir
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Hi redwards64,
Welcome in here and congratulation with your brand new UM2E+!
I've an UM2E that's upgraded later to a plus version, however, I do not have the files that's comes with a new printer.
I'm just a member like you in here, -for you to know.
There might be someone in here that can share those files.
But I'm sure @SandervG can help you with this issue.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi TrentexTech,
This is a serious under extrusion for sure and I'll agree with Carla_Birch.
I'd just wonder if this is an UM S5, this because of the grinding marks of the filament..
When looking close to your print, I'll think that the BB core also show sign of under extrusion but not sure here..
Come to think about the cooling fan used for both cores, could a failure here cause this problem?
If this fan fail somehow, this might be what happen.
Just my thoughts
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi hobe12,
Sometimes a picture says a thousand more than a word.. 🙂
This picture of your print really does.
When the printer finished the "big" rectangular block, the remaining the round part improved drastically, the hex one not so much but better, -but better! I'll say this is a heat transfer problem. The heath transfer between the heater/the block might not work very well, or the transfer between nozzle/ block is suffer.
IE. heater hole to wide.. Or bad thermal transition between nozzle and block.
Or a heater that cannot deliver enough heat...
@gr5 said temperature problem, sure this match.
Well, I am using copper paste when installing heater and sensor. The temperature at my nozzle (see in advanced menu) never change more than 1 deg. C up or down!
I am even using a little copper paste on the coil of the nozzle to keep good thermal contact. But do not overdo this!
Thanks
Good luck
Torgeir
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Hi hobe12,
When I looked at your picture, I'd also think about a Z shaft problem.
However, in the upper part of your print there's some other issues lead me to think that this "might" be a filament issue, a filament that has absorbed some water.
Filament might have sectors that's worse at places, where vapor force molten filament out of nozzle and the outcome of this may differ a little due to temperature used. If printed some hot it makes like a hole, at a little lo temperature just making blobs along a layer etc. To me, it looks very much like the filament is contaminated with water.
Also, often the filament become some brittle if this occur, brake very easy at a certain angle.
Just my thoughts.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @cashlo,
You may try to test your fan circuit J14 by installing the connector "led light" into J14, then try to start the fan using the advanced menu, if led light up and can be controlled your fan circuit is ok.
The use of a digital scope in such a circuit is ok, but can sometimes mislead us. I ask this because the 5 V peak to peak might also be measured if you measure with ground as reference.
If this is true, your circuit might be ok.
Note well.
This is just a practical way of testing this fan output, BUT do not try to use the light output (J15) for testing the fan's as there might be a fault in your fan wiring that might fry the other (the led) transistor as well.
Thanks
Torgeir
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PS. You'll need to check your wiring thoroughly, as there might be some issues that caused this to happen.
Torgeir
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Five volt, then you measure the logic signal from the processor so the transistor is fried!
There's a contact between collector and base, but emitter (to ground) is fried..
As I see you have a good instrument, -you've electronic experience.
The transistor can be bought from RS component or any good source for electronics in your country.
I'll guess you have the wiring for your main PCB as well?
Here's the web for RS Component international, just search your country and go:
https://www.rs-components.com/index.html
Regards
Torgeir
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Hi cashlo,
Those wires will break after (normally) a long service life, actually the same thing "might" be the reason why your heater failed.
It is possible to fry the "driver" transistor if the two wires yellow and green come in contact, or if the current through this circuit become to high. However, you measured the output of the two connectors going to the fans.
If the voltage on your "scope" is 24 V DC between the top and bottom of the pulse your wiring seems to be ok. What is the voltage measured here, kind of hard to see on your scope.
However, normally we would measure this voltage when the fans are connected, cause an open circuit "may" have a little high resistance that would not be detected when measuring in open circuit. This might be caused by loose crimped contact etc.
Here is the actual circuit that's controlled by PH4, a PWM (pulse width modulated (controlled)) from the micro processor.
Here is the circuit with T1 a NPN transistor BC817, that's possible to change if fried.
Good luck
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi CSS,
Welcome in here.
Hmm, -this was kind of special, so too say.
I'm thinking that there might be a glue to be used for such a problem, or maybe a piece of blue tape.
Sure "prepared" before use. 🙂
I'll think using heat might lead to other "problem", well never tried that.
Anyway, just a thought.
Good luck
Torgeir
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Congratulation!
Way to go, -can only go higher!
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi Chris,
I'll think this happen (reported) in here once as far as I'll remember.
As this regulator make 5V DC, you may try to use an ohm meter to see if there is any direct short.
This mean it's something wrong in the main PCB, but could also be the converter's sub components.
Also the diode D16 is something that's fail in such an "inductive" converters.
There is an instrument named trackers, handy for identifying components with shorts.
There is repair centers that handle such repair..
Good luck
Torgeir
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Hi samc99us,
I've just revised my previous posting Z seam relative/absolute coordinate setting.
Thanks.
Torgeir
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Hi nssorensen,
After some experience with this, I'm now always storing my filament in a water tight box containing silica drying packets.
I'm also using a hygrometer inside the box transmitting the humidity and temp to a weather station.
Not very expensive and work very well. Also invested in a food dryer to refresh filament if needed.
Regards
Torgeir
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Hi samc99us,
Took some time to make some better explanation of this coordinate use in the Z seam setting in Cura.
The first mode is Z seam relative coordinate setting.
Here's a picture of your print in Cura 4.6.1
Hopefully this is self explained!
IMO. This is the closest you can go using mm to find position like this in Cura.
Next picture is showing the situation when Z seam relative is deselected.
I've learned a few thing, by your question and I hope you find some use of it!
Regards
Torgeir
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Hi samc99us,
Understood, I'll think the best one to answer this one is @burtoogle for sure.
Regards
Torgeir
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Hi samc99us,
Sure there is, just open your gcode (the actual one, that's saved to be printed) file in Cura (here Cura 4.6.1). Cura will open the model in sliced mode, so you can only view it manually or replay it. The later versions of Cura will open with selected filament color and shows colored lines or different colored lines if there is some width that's use several lines. Inner wall, infill, outer wall etc.
Suppose you use gray PLA, then your model will appear gray if you drag down the layer number slider bar on the right side.
If you then pres start replay, the start point where it start printing will be the layer shift point.
In multi layer walls it is not easy to see the seam, as this is more a problem for single wall print and here it will be very easy to see the seam. Cura may start with any of the lines in a multi line wall, but at the same point. In your model there's two sharp angels Cura might use, but the one I've used here is on the right side.
So, here is a picture of the whole issue, using Cura 4.6.1:
(This actual picture here, also show the selector panel for the various "layer type lines" with colors used.)
Here you can see the start point of layer 232 -just where the green line start!
If you want to find it in the gcode file, use this tool:
(I'm using this one quite often.)
I'll hope this clarify the issue.
Regards
Torgeir
Ultimaker 2 extended print lifting on tape?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted · Edited by Torgeir
More proper text.
Hi Paul,
Just forgot to mention that I'm using a permanent (black "color") white board pen as a marker for the glass plate.
Also, the PVA glue we use is diluted in water to (1 to (12-18)) ish. parts, here glue is 1 parts and water is between 12 to 18 parts.
Will looks like water is slightly contaminated with some stuff. 🙂
You can hardly see the additive when dried. Using glue with PLA like this can sometimes be Very hard to remove.
So do some practice, without glue and you'll soon master it!
You may try to print smaller objects in order to get more feeling of how this works.
Anyway,
Good luck and have fun
Torgeir