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Torgeir

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Posts posted by Torgeir

    Nozzle Size Definition

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Added Cura version.

    Hi tr0g,

     

    I've been looking at the firmware for the Creality CR-6 SE, I've found that there is a few versions using same firmware:

    (The below statement if from the read me file together with the firmware.)

    -----

    32-bit Mainboard Firmware Flash Torial
    (Applicable models:Ender-3 Pro/ Ender-3 V2 Ender-5/ Ender-5 Pro/ Ender-6/ CR-6 SE)

    Tutorial:
    Prepare an SD card, format the SD card, copy the firmware to the SD card,
    then insert the SD card into the motherboard, it will automatically flash after booting,
    wait until it finishes flashing, delete the firmware in the SD card.

    Youtube Video Guide:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPqpZwl-NTw

     

    ----

    Checked Ender-3 Pro and Ender-5 Pro and the only difference is the bed size, so if you select one of them and activate the printer in Cura, you will be able to adjust the bed size to:  X=235, Y=235 and Z=250 (unchanged). In here there is also a tab for the nozzle setting.

    After the adjustment you just rename to Creality CR-6 SE.

     

    (Edit: Used Cura Version 4.7.1)

     

    Hope this help.

     

    Thanks

     

    Torgeir

     

    Ultimaker 3 Prints by itself

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi gbroemer,

     

    Welcome in here.

     

    I've never seen anything about such a problem in here, however, I'll think this is possible with the newer generation of printers that can use wifi for printing.  Those printers contain a so called buffer memory, it might actually work as a fifo (first in first out) flash disk. This buffer "disk" might have a decent size so it can hold a big file that's uploaded via wifi, -cause a "drop out" here will/might ruin our printing object. -If it is such a kind of "buffer" memory, it might hold a number of old files in a row...

    It is not easy to diagnostic such a problem, but most likely this is caused by the firmware combined by another issue that create this outcome.

    A factory reset might be something, also a reload of the current firmware edition (or the previous one).

    Lastly, I'll like to mention the use of profiles, -as it "can" control/adjust the firmware..

     

    Just my two pence.

     

    Good luck

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

     

    loose axis

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi aag,

     

    This seems to be created when the Y axe movement fwd/aft. Just like a belt is trying to climb on a pulley(?)

    You'll normally see some rubber collected up on the floor in one of the four corners, -typically remains of black rubber partickles.

    But I'll guess it's like Erin suggested, the short belt for the Y stepper..  So inner left corner..

     

    Thanks

    Good luck

     

    Torgeir

     

     

    UM2 power switch specifications for remote position

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Error corrected.

    Hi rotorhead,

     

     

    You're right there is a built in max hi temp protection and temp sensor failure protection.

    This protection is made for the extruder and heat bed.

    This is the highest level of error in an UM2 that will cut the power -so all heaters and steppers will loose power!

    On this PCB there is also two safety switches input, that might be used for over temperature issues etc.

    Normally those two connectors are shorted by a link. If one of those two open K1 also open.

    A max temp switch/sensor might be used in here..

     

    For the separate power supply itself, you might install it in a vented metal box. However, those power supplies normally have several protection "fuses" built in.

     

    For the main power, I'm using an extension cord with several connectors in a row plus a main switch. After turning off the printer I'll then switch off the main switch that's kill the power to the printer power supply.

     

    I'm not sure about the max temp for the UM2 extruder but I'll think it was 265 deg. C.

     

    I'm sure @tinkergnome now those temperature limits. 😉

     

     

    Thanks

    Regards

    Torgeir

    My 3D printer keeps stopping part way up the print

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir

    Hi @dpgtaylor,


    You got lots of good advice here for sure.


    I'll just want to say that I'll agree very much with @Smithy, -you sure have a "hot end cooling" issue.

    Even the fact the fan is running, -does not mean your hot end cooling is good!

    The heath "somehow" climb through the coupler and create high friction resulting to under extrusion..

    There is also another problem, -the nozzle you're using is not in perfect match with the flat surface in the heath block to match (your latest pictures). So this match is leaking and thermoplastic is filling the threads! This cause, less thermal conductivity between nozzle and block as well as leaking filament into the coil surface.

    This is information from your last pictures.

    Due to this fact, your nozzle do not deliver enough heat and is leaking through the coil reducing heat transfer.


    The flange between nozzle and heath block should be very "precise and even" in order to keep the temperature even through the complete heath block.


    I'm using copper paste in the treads between the nozzle and the heath block. This improve the thermal contact between block and nozzle! Also it is easier to remove when needed.

    It is very important to use "original nozzles" for the type of block used.

     

    The flange between nozzle and block is very important to be correct, -not leaking here, -or else old deposit from previous print might make problem collecting up here and ruin your ongoing print.

     

    Finally, the wires for the heath block "heating" and heath block "temperature" might cover up the inflow for the cooling radiator. This can reduce your cooling by ~35 %. "There is a small modification to improve this."

     

    Anyway, just my opinion.

     

    Good luck.

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

    • Like 1

    UM S5 stepper motor temperature

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Text

    Hi Folks,

     

    No problem, -it's sure subjective.. 🙂

     

    I've been measuring this temperature a long time ago and found this temperature to be between about (50-70) Deg.C. during "normal" use - printing all the ting from PLA to Nylon with my UM2E+ (-with geared X/Y steppers).

    This all will depend of your filament type, printer setting and length of operating time  in order to print your object.

    Sometimes we need to close up our printer to make sure that the temperature stay hi and steady, in such situation the stepper motors become very hot and this can lead to lubrication problems in the stepper bearings (grease leak out from the bearings).

    But if you need to print "exotic" thermoplastic like peek etc., -an Ultimaker printer is an excellent  individual to use solving such problems. This is true as you can install the X/Y steppers outside the printer and keep it away from this hi temp area inside!

    However, this is probably of more interest for special purpose project and experimenters.

    Hmm, about mechanical geared steppers there is some interesting issue. When you do this, the need for torque decrease but the need for speed increase. A stepper that is doubling it's speed loose torque as the magnetic field build up take time and this is a constant for iron cores used in here, so as a result the magnetic field strength become to be weaker and weaker as speed increase. So it cannot go as fast as other electric motors.

     

    Anyway, interesting.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

     

     

     

    S5 knocking y axis

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Text

    Hi @Suffolksails,

     

    There is an emergency fix for this, but only works if there is no cracks in the the "black" sliding blocks..

     

    I've been using "post it labels paper" cut to match the width of the block (13 mm or 1/2") actually like a rectangle..

    A "shims" like this will increase the clamping and is a permanent solution for my UM2+ (been for 3 yrs).

     

    Here's a picture of how I did it.

     

    Sliding_Block_Clamping_fix.jpg.3aa6ddc5ca9d2effeaa7a4afcfa8cb98.jpg

     

    Don't use to much paper around the axe, -if, it will be hard to snap on and the block may crack!

    Try to adjust so it become like the ones that's ok.

     

    Hope this helps until you have got a new replacement.

     

    Good luck.

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1

    UM S5 stepper motor temperature

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi rmerlo,

     

    In general if you can hold your finger at two second, it's quite normal I'll say..

    This also depend of the length and temp setting of your printer while printing your object.

    Back then, these stepper motors was very hot and you could easily burn your finger if you touched it.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    UM2 power switch specifications for remote position

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi rotorhead,

     

    Sure this is possible, but leave the original switch in place as it is meant to be used for PCB mounting.

    Also you don't need a switch that's need to cope with 9.4 Amps, you'll just need a switch that can do 2 Amps!

    This as the original switch on the PCB only direct power to the DC-DC converter (24 VDC-5 VDC), so this is the power used for the processing part of the board.

    The power consuming parts is delivered by the power relay mounted on the board, delivering power to heat bed, heat block and all stepper motors + logic in here.

    Find a switch that match (your style) and make sure to select one with good quality!---

    You just need a single pole switch that's connected in parallel with the original power switch (that's to be in selected off position), then you only use your remote located as power switch.

    I've made a copy from the UM2 (where the power switch is involved) for you to see how it can be done.

     

     

    PWR_SW_2.thumb.jpg.18f1c5a142b41ce8959fc4ba1235ec60.jpg

     

    This picture shows where to connect the "remote" switch in the wiring.

     

     

    PWR_SW_1.thumb.jpg.21616c3ac1ce866d3f9061d51ad10f66.jpg

    This picture show the location of power switch and used pins (1 and 2) looking into the pcb when still installed in the printer.

    So no need to do to much here, but need some skill to solder this correct.

     

    Hope this will do.

    Good luck.

    Torgeir

     

    • Thanks 1

    Change X/Y-Stepper on UM3ext

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi Daniel,

     

    When the stepper "motors" make a clicking sound, this tell us that the stepper stalls and cannot do it's next step!

    There is two reasons for this, too high friction in your gantry system, or too lo current setting for your stepper motor driver circuit!  Thees stepper motors is one of the best "electric mechanic" device ever made, they just go on and go on...

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

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