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Torgeir

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Posts posted by Torgeir

    I need hepp fixing corner and surface issues on a print.

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Hi Anafear,

     

    Welcome in here.

     

    To me, it's look like the printing temperature is to high, -also there is lots of sign of underextrution.

    The speed and the layer height demand are quite high for your printer to deliver enough flow it seems.

     

    I would reduce the printing temperature to (260-270) deg.C., reduce the speed to 40 mm/ sec for all speed settings.

    Reduce the layer height to 0.15mm and initial layer height to 0.2 mm.

     

    Also, just print one object at a time (saving filament) to see if the correction is good enough.

     

    Good luck

     

    Thanks

     

    Torgeir

     

    PLA and PVA acting weird

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Correcting text

    Hi katchanielsen,

     

    Just an observation of your prints and printing with white ”PLA”.

     

    --

     

    The color of the filament is very important for the outcome of our print.

    Due to the color, the heat radiation “into the object and from the object” is very much affected by by the objects color.

     

    In short, white (or lighter colored) object “reflect off” some off the income radiation.

    This reduced income radiation of white “colored” object, is also working the opposite way, I.E. when this object is cooled down.

     

    On the other side of the “scale” we have the black object (black boody), this theoretical object

    will not reflect any radiation going into it, but will radiate all energy as well from the object (when there is temperature difference).

     

    So, white filament need better (and more) cooling to make a nice print.

    Further, most thermoplastics collect humidity directly from the air, so we know that our filaments are collecting some water.

     

    As white filament hold the heat a little longer, “very small” bubbles of vapour might escape to the surface before the filament start to dense and stop those arriving surface.

     

    All filaments acts like this, but white color suffer faster of this issue if it’s contaminated by water.

     

    ---

     

    So, for white color, reduce the print temperature and make sure to use proper cooling.

     

    The example of 3DBency is a known issue, as the overhang start directly from the bed the overhang suffer for this extra heat radiation from the bed. Cooling from the fans will not be sufficient here, so only way to print a proper model of 3DBenchy is to print without using the heat bed and using glue for having the object to stick to the heat bed.

     

    If you study the way the printer moves around when printing 3DBenchy you’ll see that at some orientations of the objects will suffer from fan flow, due to high overhang vs. fans position.

     

    For the first problem, I downloaded your model (Cura 4.7.1) and used PVA support on head 2.

    Then selected “tree” support (from default “normal” to “tree”), selected some support angles, then to experimental and then selected “make overhang printable”.

     

    As the bottle holder lo part is wide and kind of solid, this part can be printed without support using this experimental setting.

     

    I did not adjust the temperature, but this is needed to be done. Try (205 or even 200) deg. C.

     

    The project file is still for S3 with same filament setting, but look trough it..

     

    The benefit of this use of tree and support makes the removal of support very easy.

     

     

    Edit: Forgot to mention that the printing time is reduced by much less travel.

           

            I'm using skirt and print it with nozzle no1 (having the primary filament).

            

            Also, make sure you have at least a firmware for S3 like: 5.8.0 or higher.

     

     

    Here is the file:UMS3_1971334718_hjflaskeholderv1(2)_4_7_1.3mf

     

    I've just added 4_7_1 as it's easier to identify..

     

     

    Good Luck

     

    Thanks

     

    Torgeir

     

     

     

    UM 3 Ext- Difference between

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Print head error numbers.

    Hi mrGokhan,

     

    In all this writing, I forgot to mention the most Important issue with this new generation print head from Ultimaker.

     

    Well, the only old fashion wiring in here, -is the wiring for both heat element in each core left and right. This one can be measured all the way from the "print head" to the main PCB in the bottom of the printer.

     

    All the remaining thing inside the "print head" is controlled and monitored digitally!

    There is some exceptions, if the fan is actually running -is not detected, or if a led do not work in the print head etc.

     

    What does this mean, you may ask?

     

    The erratic reading of the "captive sensor" is communicated between the main board and the print head, so the fault you have is located inside the "print head".

     

    If the main board have a problem in communication with the "print head" there will be some sort of communication error between in here. As there is a number of those paired communication channels, there will be an error for each of them I'll assume. 

     

    But all this stuff is kind of new to me, but I'll dig a little more to see the variants of comm error.

     

    --

    Edit:

     

    Ok. Here is the errors I found in UM3 user manual.

    (PS. This might be revised in later versions from Ultimaker).

     

    This is an excerpt from the UM3 user manual.

     

    Here is those errors found related to active communication with the "print head".

     

    •There is a communication error with the print head. Go to ultimaker.com/ER18.
    • There is an I2C communication error. Go to ultimaker.com/ER19.
    •There was a sensor error within the print head. Go to ultimaker.com/ER21.

     

    This one is not directly related to the "print head".

    • Active leveling correction failed. Manual level the build plate or go to ultimaker.com/ER22.

     

    Hope this helps.

     

    Edit end

    ---

     

    Thanks

     

    Torgeir

     

     

     

     

     

    UM 3 Ext- Difference between

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Name spelling.

    Hi mrGokhan,

     

    What Erin said is important, this sensing of the "captive" sensor measuring the distance between the head nozzle and the bed are using capacitans in order to measure distance. This kind of sensor is very sensitive for noise and such fans can radiate much noise (if it fails). So it is a good advice to disconnect them and do another test!

    The first thing she asked was to check the red and withe wires connected to the captive sensor.

    Those two wires may break at sometimes, because they is bend every time the front door is opened.

     

    Ok.

    Inside the head there is a PCB that's have three converters, converting an analogue signal to digital format.

    This is why it is not possible to measure wire to wire from head to inside the main PCB.

    The wire you think have contact, possibly have not.  Remember how all this thing started and the outcome.

     

    Here we go:

    Note well; it is very easy to damage anything inside the "print heads" PCB.

    Here's a picture of the two wires inside the front door of this type of head.

     

    20200928_182121.thumb.jpg.09745442a7e3d47f29d7db01920744cc.jpg

    I'll assume this is the same color as in the UM3 (this is mine S3). So check this is right!

     

    Second picture:

    Captive_Sensor_UM3_1.thumb.jpg.67609d64001403f562a4b02098c94f10.jpg

    Here I've added a little text for understanding.

     

    Third picture:

    Captive_Sensor_UM3_2.thumb.jpg.995c335a45cceaa78257db25e51f09cc.jpg

    Here just marked the (jack) J7 in the wiring.

     

    Fourth picture the print head PCB indicating the position of relevant connector.

    Captive_Sensor_UM3_3.thumb.jpg.09bdaf483d26b70bfcd63e32487e4265.jpg

     

    Lastly, I've never seen an UM3, so all this info is based on the wiring of the system I've found on Github.

     

    If you have a valid warranty and anything go wrong, it is on your own responsibility (just so it is said).

     

    Good luck

    Thanks.

     

    Torgeir

     

     

    • Like 1

    Ultimaker Cura 4.7 is available!

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Hi Ricardo,

     

    Welcome in here.

     

    It depends a little, -the "newer" Cura versions show the color of the filament, however, if you go to setup under general -there is one of the first named "Theme". At default "Ultimaker" is set, press "Ultimaker" and see the variants.

    A restart of Cura is needed for changes to take place.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir.

    Nylon printing issues

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Additional info.

    Hi minercraftal,

     

    I'll agree with others saying your filament is contaminated with water. What we see here is that water affected filament entering the hot end, create vapor that's increase the pressure inside the hot end and then lead to over extruding that's erratic. Nylon is one of the most sensitive (close to PVA), for attracting water in high humidity environment. 

    So, be there when nylon filament printing is done and store your valuable filament into sealed container with silica bag to keep it ready for next print.

    Also, a lo temp for nylon might be more like (235-240) deg. C. Normally nylon tend to string a little, so a little tuning here is often needed.

    Printing with nylon need some attention for cold draft into the lo end of the printer. Such draft can reduce the bounding between the layers of your model, very important. So cover up the lo part an the front. Also using a top hat that's have an exhaust valve to vent out fumes, however when printing with nylon the exhaust vent is closed and heat is vented on the open underside of the top hat.-

    Typical bed temp is about 75 deg. C. This temperature create a draft from lo through the upper part of the printer.

     

    In Cura there is a tools to protect your object from draft, -use it, it work very well for me.

    It's named "Draft Shield" and it's used to shield models, keep the heat and prevent models to warp.

    This one have been sometime in Cura, but still located under experimental (Cura 4.7.1).

     

    Here is it:

    Draft_Shield.thumb.jpg.fcee60f213a15aab9866d952bf1036ec.jpg

     

     

    When printing Nylon, the cooling fan for your model is off -all the time..

    Edit: Using no cooling fan is mainly true for smaller objects, -some fan use is done when printing bigger object so here it is very important to follow the producers advice and your printers capabilities in this matter. (Heat insulation, doors etc.)

     

    By the way, I'm mostly printing around (250-255) deg. C for the brand I'm using.

    So last, select a good 1 class filament for your nylon printing -that's the important thing to do here..

     

    Good luck with your nylon printing.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

    increase cura buildplate limet

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Text

    Hi neburmine,

     

    Welcome in here.

     

    As I can see your model is just to big to fit the heat bed in your Ender 3.

    You just need to scale your model down a little and you'll be fine.

    Just added two pictures of how.

     

    First picture of a model that's too big.

    Cura_Scaling_To_fit_Bed.thumb.jpg.5b5e9769433f5568fb5c3820847f3715.jpg

     

    Next picture with the model scaled down (see text in the picture).

     

    Cura_Scaling_To_fit_Bed_2.thumb.jpg.167a183dccf34c2a4c3071cec7df577a.jpg

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    What is making this sound?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir

    Hi oskars,

     

    Right, this sounds like one of the belts is climbing on the side of a pulley. Normally this will create particles in the bottom of the printer (one of the four corners) and this will collect up here as small black ones..

    The two short belts might be addressed, if one the pulleys is coming loose this might happen.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir.

     

    S5 high pitched whine

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Often such a high frequency "whine" occur in the power supply, try to tilt the printer a little to one side, in order to hear if this whining is created under the printer (where the PS (power supply) is located.

    Those PS operate at high frequency and can sometimes make such noise if the coils potting is in suficient.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

    Tiny Tiny bumps

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Text error.

    Hi, sorry for late reply..

     

    You'll need to change two settings to remove this extra travel issue.

    First, turn off combing mode.  Then set Z seam to "user specified" and select "back".

    That's all needed.

     

    Here's a picture of settings and result.

     

    Settings_To_Change.thumb.jpg.bfe2fa398bbc85107bcf7fabe9e2443c.jpg

     

    For testing just the "affected" top parts, you can do this;

    Printing_Upper_Part_of_object.thumb.jpg.7abf94941118ccb8d1b7a1199d68c008.jpg

     

    You can drag the object down and just printing the upper part (just skip support for such test). Set a brim or skirt for just that part of the object.

     

    All in all very easy to do.

     

    Good luck.

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

    • Thanks 1

    Tiny Tiny bumps

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Hi Hops,

     

    The small dots, its really from the travels Cura sometimes makes due to some issues..

    I've been experimenting so much with domes and curves over the times in order to trying avoid this to happen, so here is some tip.

     

    I've found that Cura need a model with a high number of triangles in order to do slicing better (Cura is somehow sensitive here).

    Over times I've tested so many curved and coned models in order to understand how to "prepare" a model for Cura to be sliced as good as possible in order to make a good 3D print of my object.

     

    So here is how I'll do curved and "dome" prints;

     

    1)

    Increase the number of triangles in your model, just put a high number up... Do not think about megabyte size, think more about your model quality!  -You can always delete a big temporary file.

     

    2)

    Use the "finest" (0.006 mm if you can) height resolution you have!

     

    3)

    Select adaptive layer height in Cura (search in the menu for this setting).

     

    The above should make a much better surface outcome for curving and high "overhanging angle" part of your print.

    But you use support, -do you?

     

    And sure no warranty here.. 🙂

     

    Sure I've tested your model.. So just increase the number of triangles in the stc file of this model. Cura work much better with enough number (resolution) of triangles.  But do not forget the rest of settings..

     

    This is just my experience.

     

    Good Luck.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir.

     

     

     

     

     

    The Mighty UM2go

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi medicalmodeller,

     

    Somehow, -something went wrong.. Try to swap it again!

    This change of feeder, will mechanical change direction, -so your wire swap -somehow failed..

    Just do it again, -and it will work..  🙂

     

    Thanks

    Regards

    Torgeir

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Single wall print (0,4 mm with 0.4 mm nozzle). Weird tube on print or lost print.

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Hi szymon,

     

    Your problem is the model from Fusion 360, -increase the numbers of triangles when exporting the model to (stl format) for the printer. Your wall is segmented and Cura apparently follow those and makes additional travels due to this issue. I've used Cura 4.7.1 to view your model.

     

    If you have a nicely curved model, -make sure you have a good number of triangles to avoid such a problem.

    A good object viewer and a good 3D printer will show segments..

     

    Here's a picture of the setting change in Fusion 360.

     

     

    Fusion_360_triangles.thumb.jpg.0d12af4eaaf491ea468986f1e7270d1b.jpg

     

    Adjust the setting by selecting refinement..

     

    Good luck

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    Print starts centered and then drifts off to the left

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Hi KingofSpade218,

     

    I've come to think about some other issues as you have a brand new printer..

    If there's to high friction in the various sliding bearing, -not lubricated as it's supposed to be (such friction can make the stepper motor loosing steps). So check this point about lubrication according to the user manual.

     

    Lastly, also check that the current setting for the stepper motors is properly set; "too lo current may result in loosing step and too high current might damage your stepper driver circuit over time". Current setting might be adjusted by setting in printer menu, or by adjusting a trim resistor on the main PCB (printed circuit board).

     

    Well, this is all I can think about for now.

     

    PS. This is the first time I've seen this printer, -but this thing is "quite" general for mostly all 3D printers.

     

    Good luck.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

     

     

     

     

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