SyntaxTerror

If you're on linux, rather than lsusb, try dmesg and see what it gives you. I get: [10870836.263108] usb 2-1.2: new full-speed USB device number 5 using ehci-pci [10870836.349886] usb 2-1.2: New USB device found, idVendor=2341, idProduct=0010 [10870836.349895] usb 2-1.2: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=0 [10870836.349899] usb 2-1.2: Product: Ultimaker 2.0 [10870836.349902] usb 2-1.2: Manufacturer: Ultimaker BV (www.ultimaker.com) [10870836.371712] cdc_acm 2-1.2:1.0: ttyACM0: USB ACM device [10870836.372227] usbcore: registered new interface driver cdc_acm [10870836.372229] cdc_acm: USB Abstract Control Model driver for USB modems and ISDN adapters Also, what kind of USB ports are you using? Not sure if anyone has experienced issues with 3.0 on the Ultimakers, but a lot of Arduino people have had trouble with some chipsets.

Alternatively, since the JST connector is 0.1" pitch, it's perfectly possible to simply remove it and solder in a molex KK series connector (like the one for the temperature sensor etc.) instead. Much more common crimp tools available there.

You could also go with a tried and tested version of it, rather than the prerelease one.

Get the tinker firmware. You'll never regret it!

Hmm. I'm just going to go ahead and interpret this as a possibility of getting laid if I give it to a woman. Makes sense to me. I'm bloody romantic and stuff.

And if he didn't play with the esteps, 46% sounds pretty high? Or is it me? Edit: Hah. By high I of course mean low. Anyway, you should definitely get your esteps right - do a 100mm extrusion and find out how much you're actually getting pushed through

You're correct, the housing is XHP-2, and the contacts are SXH-001T-P06 - for wire gauges 22-28. SXH-002T-P06 for wire gauges 26-30. One thing to note is that crimping those things can be a pain; all the proper crimp tools for JST connectors cost an arm and a leg. Further, your ATMEGA2560 should be good at temperatures up to 85 degrees C, so unless something's very unusual about your setup, it's likely unnecessary.

This thing needs a bump.

Well the limiting component should be that same transistor, so... In any case it's not going to make the printer melt its way to the core of the earth; we're limited by the power supply wattage here too.

There are a great many ways to increase adhesion. Hair spray or glue might be worth a shot. Then you have your dedicated 3D printing products like 3DLac, DimaFix, etc. You can also use something like BuildTak as an alternative surface to print on (and you might even get frustrated with how well it works since now you're having problems removing the models). Lifting can be quite common especially if you're printing something with sharp corners on the build plate; that's almost always where it starts. Models with rounded corners are much easier to get away with. Personally, I usually print with DimaFix. I start out with the bed heated close to the glass temperature of the material, let it run a couple of layers like that, then lower the bed temperature 5 degrees. Warping/lifting is a rare thing now in my world.

The cause is a good question. If you're lucky it's just a failed transistor, probably failing to turn on entirely and creating a voltage drop across itself, heating up and eventually heating the solder joint to the point of melting. Alternatively, it might be a short in the wiring or in the heated bed somehow. If I was in your shoes, I'd have a close look at the cables and see if the insulation is damaged somewhere. If that wasn't the case, I'd probably just solder in a new transistor and try again (but that's just me).

That sounds very odd - the CSD18501 as far as I can tell is only available in a Q5A package, and the board footprint is SOIC-8. It won't fit. So unless I'm looking at the wrong schematics or otherwise missing something entirely, that's not the correct part.

I don't own a UMO so I have limited insight. Assuming the HBK board @neotko refers to is the one I can find in the BOM here the part you're looking for is an IRF8736PBF - which is readily available at for instance RS components.

I thought so too Anyways, the board looks just a bit discolored but doesn't appear (from the pictures anyway) to have delamination and/or burn damage. If you can solder SMD parts or know someone who can, I'm sure we can find a replacement part for you?

Now I haven't looked closely at the schematic for that board, but given it's a transistor and apparently has to do with the heated bed, you might want to check your bed/wiring for shorts. To me, the picture looks like it got hot enough to desolder itself. Should the cause of this happen to be the load on the transistor, then it's just going to happen again.

That was also a point of consideration. Together with more developers (both inside and outside of UM) being familiar with the distro. The last should not be a very strong reason to do it, but it's something one should take into account. Having a large knowledge base from an equally large number of users is always handy no matter what you're planning, that's for certain! Having to learn the particulars of something unrelated to the actual development can be a real pain in the butt when the project itself is already on the verge of making your hair fall out

Because when we started (+- 3 years ago) Alpine wasn't really a thing yet. Switching distros is dangerous & expensive. Plus, it's bloody difficult to beat Debian for stability.

Heh, now I've just noted it says UM2 in the topic header. That means the encoder would be this one. If you're missing steps when turning it (should be easy enough to notice when navigating the menus) and your interconnect cables are okay, then overwhelming odds point towards a glitchy rotary encoder.

Which printer are we talking about here? Regardless the answer to that, it sounds like you have a defective encoder on your controller. Start by unplugging and replugging all the cables to the controller, just in case you're lucky. If you're not I'm going with encoder failure.

Definitely lower than PC. Glass transition is around 100 deg. C, Vicat softening around 96 deg. C. Thank you :)I wish these companies would be more forthcoming in their data/spec information. Usually Formfutura supplies decent datasheets. Don't know what happened here.

Definitely lower than PC. Glass transition is around 100 deg. C, Vicat softening around 96 deg. C.

Hehehe, yeah it has a hidden secondary function too, which is making people laugh and shake their heads at me. Strangely enough, it's probably at the same time the most popular and most useless thing I ever made. Very odd.

Number 1 was slightly primitive since it was invented in about 45 minutes on a Friday afternoon - it worked off NTP and as such required a working internet connection. So if there was a network problem or someone unplugged the ethernet cable, it'd get confused. It led to complaints. So I made the Mark II which just needs 5V. It uses a GPS receiver to determine the time and date, then using the doomsday algorithm calculates the day of the week, applies any daylight saving correction and then shows us if it's Friday or not. And it's got an RTC in case of spotty GPS coverage. Hasn't failed once in what, two years?

Beer tasting sounds like a sensible idea. I think I'll just flop down on the couch myself and do as little as humanly possible. But yeah, the Friday detection unit switched to green so it must be a good day.

Sure. I'm not saying it's the holy grail of filaments either - just that I've certainly had good experiences with it. I think this ASA is surprisingly easy to print and yields crisp, excellent quality results (for that purpose I'd say it almost equals PLA). It can warp a bit on you if you're not using anything on the bed (DimaFix seems to work very well for me here). I've been struggling slightly with interlayer adhesion using the white ApolloX - but nothing higher nozzle temperature wouldn't fix. It just seems to need a bit more than the others. It bridges very well and AFAIK it can be smoothed with acetone, although I've never done it. I usually sand parts instead, which it tolerates admirably. Painting it is likewise easy to get away with. Originally I bought it because I needed something (read: anything that wasn't ABS, which at the time had really started to tick me off with its misbehaving nature) to print temperature resistant parts for computer hardware. And yeah, they say ASA produces harmful fumes so ventilation is necessary. At least it doesn't thoroughly stink like ABS