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Posts posted by kmanstudios

  1. 4 hours ago, geert_2 said:

    a friend uses them a lot for cupcakes. But they are not left long enough to fade...   🙂



    4 hours ago, geert_2 said:

    What about textile colors?

    Rit Dye is a textile colour dye, so yeah, I would think so.

  2. 1 hour ago, geert_2 said:

    some people used food-colors

    Food colours are not light-fast, i.e. will fade. I can only remember seeing Rit Dye used.


    1 hour ago, Evavoo said:

    I run a 3D printing facility and this method wouldnt really make sense for the scale and quantity of prints id be interested in using the filament for.

    Yeah, you are right about that.

    • Like 1
  3. My next installment will have links to the types of metallic. chrome and chameleon powders to create different affects. I have almost finished the 'Fairy wings' project and will get back to regular posts about different prints.


    I did see your post of the sculpt you did. I can see a lot of potential with painting. 🙂 It is a very nice sculpt.

  4. The filament was just TPLA. It is the paint that makes the difference. I am documenting how I paint things here:


    I have not gotten around to documenting how I did the weird critters. But I will be once I get some extra paint. But in short, it was Spaz Stix holographic paint. They make several varieties.

  5. I think your two examples best sum up what to look for visually. You can see the pocket and hole clearly and then completely fubar in the other view.


    I also wonder what people are doing when they go into the 'experimental section' and just click. I know why I did it, but cannot assume for others.


    I do remember early on how I had to learn this: Slice, see, make change, slice, then see change again. Repeat until things look right. I also remember clicking on 'close holes' on an inset circular design and it just capped everything into a cylinder. It did not make sense to me since the object was manifold and it was just closing up all the interior detail. Flummoxed me to no end and I came here to find out what happened. 


    So, yeah, I get the disconnect sometimes. Especially if you are a noob.

  6. On 4/1/2021 at 11:38 AM, voxycon said:

    Btw the removed PVA has pressure points like seen in the picture, but also breaks in other places


     That is grinding on the filament and can happen with any filament if the feeder is not properly adjusted. You can see that the grinding also creates raised areas that really make it difficult to move through the bowden tube. This then increases the likelihood of more grinding and can really make the filament hard to get out of the feeder or tube. I have even had to take the feeder apart to get the pieces that broke off, or just a lot of other debris that makes life much more difficult.


    1 hour ago, Carbon said:

    Are you both using Print Core BB0.4 or BB0.8? Are the print cores clean inside?


    Are the pipes and guides free from blaokage? I only ask because as a piece of PVA broke off on the underside of our machine (feed paths) underneath the material station and was causing NO end of problems......similar to what you're both having.

    This is solid on what to look for and do. 👍

  7. 39 minutes ago, GregValiant said:

    I'll go with "Do Not Touch Unless You Know What You're Doing".


    The obvious caveat though is, "Do people not check their slice to see what is happening. It is not like it is guess work really.


    41 minutes ago, GregValiant said:

    On the other hand, the nut won't fit in the pocket and the screw will no longer fit through the hole. 

    Exactly 🙂 That's proof of why I do not think this has engineering purposes. But for artistic, non-functional printing, it is a fun, helpful oddity in slicing.


    But, seriously, check the slice before any printing, no matter what is being prepped for printing.

  8. 2 hours ago, nallath said:

    I obviously don't know what you are using it for

    I enjoy the feature. Sometimes, when I am printing without supports (designed that way) there may be times that I have inadvertently put an angle here or there that would create an issue when printing. The 'make overhang printable' lets me turn that on without ruining the whole print as well as means I do not have to go back into sculpting the piece. I would say that it has to do more with artistic prints than engineering though.

    Shape before slicing. You can see the hollows in the scooped areas.



    Sliced without overhang printable. Slice follows scoops as modeled.



    Overhang Printable on. You can see where it filled in the scoops to prevent printing in air. It did this without destroying the model.



    For me, it is a way to compensate for some really strange model properties when I do strange modeling or severe undercuts. I can see where this would be an issue with engineering and would no9t make sense, but for artistic things, it has a use. Came in very handy with the 'weird critters' I was modeling.


    But, there do not seem to be many artistic type of modeling as compared to engineering type stuff. If it were to be deleted, I would weep a bit (Seriously, there could be actual tears 🤪 )...but it would not be the end of the world.


    2 hours ago, nallath said:

    Poorly 😉 (I'm still convinced that the function shouldn't be in Cura, and it causes a lot of bugreports from people that enable it without knowing what it does)


    Ummmm, is that not the case for any person just using things without understanding the feature?


    Darned edit feature will not let me remover this final image. I go in, I hit delete and then save and it is right back where it is not supposed to be.


  9. I took a look at the file. It is really messed up. 3DS MAX would not even import it:


    I usually use MAX to check files as it is robust and has an STL checking system.

    I did get it to load in 3DCoat. But it was still messed up.


    Then I opened it into Cura 4.8 and it came in tiny (A). It also produced this error message about it not being manifold (B).



    Scaling the model up in Cura I got this really weird shading. I have never seen this before.



    I really do not think this car can be salvaged as it is.

  10. I did this a while back. I will try to find the photos or make new ones and post the results here. I just checked and they are not on my list of previous attachments.


    Edit: found the photo. This was way back in my early printing days when I was just doing anything to learn about printing and playing with ideas.


  11. So, I was working on some more paint stuff to demonstrate methods and got totally tangented to a stray thought that took over.


    Faerie Wings. So, I spent a great deal of time researching how to do them properly and, every thing was a bust for me. Most thins posted are about making life sized wings. It works ok on that large of a scale, but not on the smaller print sizes. Many prints later and I can post at least about one successful test at conclusion of the project. I had been doing tests, learning and then starting over. Got bunches of printed wings here now. 😂


    So, these are the steps I worked out so far to get  them to work. I wanted transparency, delicacy and angular light that shows colours on one angle, transparent on another, etc.


    1.  Tape down some cling wrap on a flat surface. Make sure it is pulled tight. A bit like stretching a canvas, if you have ever done that.
    2. Put down a holographic  (very fine size) glitter, mixed into a clear suspension medium. I prefer anything that dries clear and is acrylic based. Do not over stuff the surface with glitter. You want it very sparse.SparseGlitter.thumb.jpg.55e9f22be5f1d4328407c33279822571.jpg
    3. When it is dried I apply a layer of a 'tacky glue' over it to make sure the surface that the glitter is on will adhere to the printed wing frame. The glitter can be felt as a bit rough becuase it does not lay down. Folding over the surface in a minute will get rid of all roughness, but doubling up the cling wrap will make it stronger and the external surface will be smooth. The glue I am experimenting on is this one here: Aleene's 29-2 tack-it over & over liquid glue. For no other reason that I saws it being used during my research. I imagine just about any 'tacky glue' will do. But, it must dry clear.
    4. I arrange the wing parts on the prepared, sticky cling wrap.WingsLaidIn.thumb.jpg.63a58b2cc748a2eb576adb4daf601491.jpg
    5. Then I fold the cling wrap over to encase the wing frame structure. In this case, you can see that the frames are primed black before laying them on the cling wrap.FoldedOver.thumb.jpg.75a57f07d66013dec0d8fec09a6cd071.jpg
    6. Then you press it with weights.  I put a thick set of paper towels down on my cabinet and then more on top of the wings and then weights over that. This is so that the frame will get really pressed down, but the soft parts in the hollows of the frame will get pressed towards the center of the frame instead of all on one side. This will be important in a minute.
    7. Once it has been pressed for a while, it is time to trim the excess wing surface off and to the edges of the frame. This will seal in the frame. I used a cheap old soldering iron as a hot knife.TimeToTrim.thumb.jpg.00cc32100ca4a99dbabd8d5a92703a4e.jpg
    8. Once the wings are laid in and trimmed, I lay them out and then begin to put Stuart Semple's 'Stick' on top of the wing frames and let it dry clear.  WingsTrimmed.thumb.jpg.e559bd81ec59f036af076034767d281c.jpg
    9. Then I burnish chameleon powders, used by fingernail artists over the treated areas of the frame. I also will burnish some straight into clear wing part to create an interference effect. Very transparent when seen on one angle:WingTransparency.thumb.jpg.c613312395676c38a7ccf493976da45d.jpg
    10. But on different angles, the colours will shift.ColoursAtAngles.thumb.jpg.cf66396019b52b0856426bda25681f9c.jpg


    I am still playing with the things to do to see if I can improve this. But, it is a start. And, you can see the way the cling wrap holds onto the shape, but also wrinkles is a bit how insect wings can be wrinkly. I am also testing out printing the frame as thin as possible so that it does not really look so strong. Basically, more delicate looking frame.



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  12. You can assign extruder per model. That would be how you would print multicolour designs. On the bottom left hand side of the tool bar, select the model and then click on the number of the extruder. But when it comes to supports, you have to pick an extruder. There are certain parts of the extrusion that you can choose the parts of the support to be which extruder. But for simplicity, you can assign models to either extruder and choose extruder(s) for parts of the support.

  13. I started printing cubes and such as test objects and thingiverse provided calibration models. Cubes and cylinder type stuff allowed me to check the printer's accuracy. The calibration models allowed me to find thins like overhang angles it stopped printing well as well as holes, text, etc. They are also quick prints.


    I have been designing things for a long time, so that part was easy. But starting out with something like a 3D Printer and calibration models allowed me to be comfortable in my printer's and slicer's capabilities.

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