Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by kmanstudios

  1. 36 minutes ago, gr5 said:

    @bkirchman - manual leveling 1mm above the glass won't help much if it does an autolevel right after.

    On a technicality, I would disagree about the manual leveling not helping.


    In a broader sense, it is good to do a manual leveling periodically to correct for the buildplate 'settling' by way of many things. Basically, the more level the buildplate the less correction the active leveling process goes through.

  2. 36 minutes ago, rob0213 said:

    Funny thing is I haven't changed ANYTHING.... it just quit working twice now.

    Note that I did not say that you changed anything.


    What I did mean, is that the printer definition in the supplied Cura with your product may not be the same as the definition that comes with Cura available to the masses. Nothing to do with what you are doing. The product's manufacturer just may have something in their supplied version that is different from the basic Cura available to everybody.


    I just think it may be the thing to look at due to the ginormous 'grey area' seen in your image.


    The .3mf file would let people see if it is indeed the skirt issue @ahoeben mentioned. Otherwise we are just guessing. I am sure this is frustrating to you when you do need a more solid answer.

  3. 14 hours ago, rob0213 said:

    The STL file opens just fine in myPpowe Sspec edition of Cura....

    This sounds like a printer definition that is different from the the supplied copy of the program and the wide release of Cura.


    The greyed area referenced by @ahoeben seems to show this with the image you supplied.


    Edit: A supplied .3mf file would help in this as it would contain all the information of the Cura setup used.

  4. It has been a while so I am a bit fuzzy on this (sorry), but I did start with the 0.4 or 0.8settings in the past and just tweak it a bit. I forget the settings, but it worked great on basic PLA, of which I print mostly myself. I think I did start with the 0.8 settings.......

  5. Nice thing about the CC 0.6 is that it will last much, much longer.


    I print 24/7 for about 6 months and the brass nozzles get frayed and lose fidelity in the print. The CC core will be much stronger and last better with any material.


    And it is there fore that ONE time you need to print something abrasive. Remember, there are abrasive based PLA filaments. When I first started, I did not know glow in the dark was an abrasive material. Kinda hastened the end of that core. :(


  6. 31 minutes ago, ultiarjan said:

    While the cc0.6 is great it's pretty pricey... So availability of a 'normal' 0.6 core would be a nice addition to the lineup. Specially considering the um3 feeders can't handle abrasive material anyhow...

    I can agree with that.

  7. What is wrong with the CC core being made for abrasive materials? Not only is it the size you are looking for but will also run all other materials. Abrasive resistant does not preclude the usage, just expands it......


    This is not in opposition to the other stuff mentioned here, but just letting you know.

  8. Can you share the file? Without the file, it remains to be a giant guess as to the many reasons it will not load properly. I say this because (with my machine, a lot of ram and such) I routinely load hundred + Mb sized files into cura.

  9. 20 minutes ago, Craig123 said:

    Thank you for your help so if I get my hands on a um3(E) core a ruby nozzle should fit this, and this core should fit into the S5 with no issues ?


    yup 🙂 But it seems you still want to change the nozzle instead of getting a whole new core.


    @gr5sells hardened cores like this in the US. He knows tons of stuff about this.

  10. As far as I know, all UM3(E) cores work perfectly on the S5 as well. The cores being a self contained unit have all the needed parts to work properly. I am not sure if there is a specific ruby core or not, but if so, it will solve the issue without worrying about breaking the core just trying to change the nozzle.


    I have been switching between cores on both machines since I got the S5. So, it does work in my experience.

  11. 7 hours ago, Ult1mat3X said:

    I think if you wanted to use a pen for making something serious you would need to be OCD or Autistic.

    I am and I do use it for serious work 🙂 Just last week, I had to use it to weld some parts together where there was a gap and the pen was the only way to really get it filled and sealed.

  12. 8 minutes ago, gromit said:

    Can you weld Nylon together or just stick

    I am not sure what you mean by 'just stick'. I have not tried to weld Nylon before, but, it is a plastic and as far as I know, all plastics can be welded.

  13. I thinhik the UM Breakaway material would be your best bet in general. I do not know of any water soluble material that works with ABS. And, believe me, I tried.


    Works great with Nylon though.

  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!