nzo

That made me laugh kman. You know the saying: Assumption is the mother of all f**k ups...I'll turn 76 next January But yes, I am having fun and enjoy the challenge of new learning. Although I've had my "Why the hell did I get into this!" moments, the UM2+ is a printer out there on its own. I love watching it work. All we need now is teleportation for true long distance matter-transfer of finished prints etc

I appreciate your input kman! I'll fiddle with support and see what happens.

Thanks neotko - that's a useful article to have on my desktop. kman - what has me baffled is if the mask is printed vertically, how to go about supporting it on the print bed. I have one nozzle for PLA and that's it. How would I specify the type of supports needed for this type of vertical model? What do such supports look like? I've read a bit about supports but until I do it it won't make sense. I need to learn this or I'm holding myself back from being more adventurous

Sure kman, here you go

Stu - please click on the right-hand image in my above post and it will open an image of my settings panel with the details you asked about. Thanks

I'm sorry Tinkergnome - I found my own answer just by watching that menu carefully. There is a heating sequence at the end of which the temperatures update and away it goes But thank you for responding.

No worries, I've found it. In Cura it's in the MOVE button menu where one can enter a negative number in the Z field i.e. -3 depending on what's needed.

Tinkergnome: This is the PRINT screen I've been viewing to wind the nozzle temp to 210C each time I print. The MATERIAL menu has the correct settings for PLA on this machine.

You folks at Ultimaker are probably really busy with the new forum about to be launched. If you happen to have a moment to look at this 'rippling' problem and tell me what might cause it I'd appreciate it. I've looked through the troubleshooting guide but found nothing similar. Thanks. UM2+, Cura 2.3.1, Settings below. PLA 3mm, Temp 210/60C

How can I preset the nozzle temp and have it stick? Currently the nozzle is set to 0 on UM2+ boot. Thanks!

Vielen Dank für deine tolle Firmware Tinkergnome. Ohne Probleme auf meinem UM2+ installiert. So gut, um zu sehen, was live passiert!

gr5 - You've mentioned this 'sinking' method a few times. Could you please explain a bit more how it's done? UM2+, Cura 2.3.1, PLA Moon diameter probably 120 - 150mm.

bump

I've just printed my first mask, in a smaller size to make sure it all works. The pic is lit from behind and clearly shows the print lines. I rather enjoy what many would regard as a fault - almost like a Maori moko (facial tattoo). I'll do more research and maybe print a full-size one as in the other pic, and paint it afterwards. All credit to Jacob/JTM: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1013350 I would like to learn how to avoid those print lines. These are the Cura 2.3.1 settings I've used: - UM2+, PLA, 0.4mm nozzle, normal quality. - Layer height: 0.1mm - Wall thickness: 1.05mm - Top/bottom thickness: 0.8mm - Infill density: 20% - Infill pattern: Grid - Infill layer thickness: 0.1mm - Enable retraction: On - Print speed: 50mm/s - Travel speed: 120mm/s - Print cooling: On Thank you!

My UM2+ has been working amazingly well for print after print. One of those prints is a printhead-mounted dial gauge. I've used this gauge with Pronterface via USB as a possibly easier way to level the buildplate. The UM2+ does not seem to allow a constant variation in z-axis position which is why I used pronterface. I didn't realise Pronterface behaves differently with UM2+, i.e. in Pronterface the z-axis UP controls work in reverse - the buildplate tries to move down and resulted in a brief chattering grinding sound (belts?) and the DOWN controls caused the buildplate to move up very slowly (about 1/4 the speed of the UM2+ normal speed. I abandoned Pronterface and went back to stand-alone UM2+ to level the buildplate. What was unexpected was that now, after the pre-heat and pre-extrusion phases, the buildplate only rose to about 20mm below where it was expected. Consequently the print started 'in the air'. Several attempts resulted in the same height shortfall. I did a Cura and UM2+ reset but no change. Does the UM2+ retain its old Pronterface settings in a cache for a while? Thanks for your input!

Why not try Geert's saltwater plate preparation. Since starting to use that I've not had a single problem with warping or lifting. First get any trace of grease off the plate with isopropyl alcohol and a small pad of clean fuzz-free paper towel. Mix up a solution of plain salt and water in a clean glass container. It does not need to be so concentrated that un-dissolved salt crystals remain on the bottom of the container. Using another paper towel gently rub the salt solution on the plate in light, even strokes. No pressure needed and you definitely don't want any more than a thin salt film - like breathing on glass. When dry, proceed with printing. I've just finished a run of 4 printings with the same salt layer. PLA @ 210C and 60C. NOTE: Geert's saltwater method only works with PLA at the moment.

Thanks for this info. I need to know it for this project: a Moon Sphere. I haven't printed spheres before and would welcome your suggestions on likely overhang problems on a file like this, and how I might best nest the moon on the UM2+ build-plate. Much appreciate your input!

Empty - please delete

Empty - please delete

Geert: perhaps another method might be - 1-Print the protruding button as is but with a flat surface and no finger recess 2-Print a slightly larger diameter and thicker disk 3-The surface of this larger disk can be optimized in whatever way you wish; with a decent-sized finger recess, edge knurling, and little knobblies. 4-You could also make the second disk in a different colour. 5-Glue the new disc to the existing knob, or recess some flat, strong neodymium magnets to both joining surfaces - then you can choose a different color scheme for every season!

UPDATE - After ruminating for a while about the 'knob hole being too large diameter' I did the following: Using a sharp scalpel I carefully reamed out the knob hole's opening, creating a short 'funnel' shape about 2.5mm deep. Slipped a short length of heatshrink over the shaft and gently heated both until the heatshrink clamped on, then let it cool. Puffed a tiny spray of silicone into the knob hole. Aligned the shaft and knob keyways and carefully pushed the knob in place. Voila! No wobble and the push and rotate functions work without mushiness, just like a bought one

Thank you Dim3nsioneer, ahoeben and Geert! I did that Geert and that new knob is way out in most directions, which is maybe why the author has gone into hiding But he did give me the idea, so all is ok. I put the new knob into my giant Chinese miller/driller and milled the knob's inside tube down to where the flat key-way begins, wrapped a single layer of duct tape over the knob recess shaft and pushed the knob firmly in place. Much improved control. Perhaps heatshrink tubing may be a better choice for the shaft packing material. For now it's good. Really appreciated you taking the time to detail your post Geert. It sure oiled the wheels. Some time I'll try to remodel the new knob

I've just printed a slightly more protruding jog wheel. Unfortunately it does not work completely: 1 - The push-to-select action does not engage with the board's switch. 2 - The rotating action works fine. 3 - The wheel's shaft hole is a fraction too loose and new wheel can easily be pulled out of front panel recess. Is there a source for the dimensions of the default ulticontroller wheel? Here's a pic of my just-printed wheel: It's a little hard to see but there is a key inside the hole, about 3.85mm below the hole surface. The top of the knob wall is level with the inside hub top. The guy who published the modded model is nowhere to be found. Thanks and appreciation!

Danke schön Didier! At present there are 3 albums visible. One is titled "nzo's album Uploads". It's empty, it just has a heart at the top and looks like it may be a default album. The other album is also empty, called "nzo's album Private uploads". It shows as Hidden and the delete link is greyed out and inactive.

Hi Geert, Your previous help via this forum and your tutorial site were extremely useful. I wanted to let you know what a relief it is to have your saltwater method as a tool. It hasn't let me down yet. I've moved on to slightly more ambitious prints and that fine salt haze on the glass makes PLA adhesion rock-steady. Thank you again and I hope life is going well for you.