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  1. Thank you for these explanations! That's good to know even if I don't intend to use my printer as a lift...
  2. Actually the bearing seems to be fine and to rotate smoothly. But the preset of the spring was really slight compared to what's recommended. I may have loosen the screw because of the plastic dust I was seeing when removing the wheel. This too slight pressure on the filament may have worn it without making it advance. Now I tightened the spring screw my material supply seems to be back to normal! Thanks a lot for your precious advices, as always!
  3. Thank you guys for these advices! I will check these points. PLA dust was on the knurled bolt when removed it, so it could have come inside the bearing in the long run.
  4. Hi there! I am suddenly experiencing under-extrusion with my UMO+ and I noticed that my feeder does not drive consistently the filament. When I rotate the wheel manually, I can feel that the resistance is not regular throughout the rotation, and the filament moves on and stops several times in one rotation. I tried to modify the pressure of the little wheel on the filament but it does not solve the issue. Does someone had the same issue or know where this could come from?
  5. Thanks a lot for all these feedbacks! Always much appreciated. To summarize I'll keep in mind that UMO+ can reach similar quality levels than the upper models provided that some adjustments are made. So for the quite inexperienced user I am, UM2+ may be a better choice. So I can rely on its technology without much worries. That said, I don't regret at all to have started with an UMO+. I was completely unfamiliar with FDM printing and this enabled me to understand a lot about it, and more importantly, it made me want to use it even more!
  6. Thank you for these very helpful explanations Tommyph1208! About the multiple nozzles of the UM2+, do you think that the same results could be obtained with an UMO+ just by changing the nozzle?
  7. Thanks a lot for this reply, that's very good to know ! I have to say I'm quite surprised to read this. I expected that the fact that it is manually assembled by the user could have an impact on the accuracy, but it seems like it's not the case? I also thought that the UM2+, with its several nozzles, was somehow designed for efficiency. What's the purpose of this otherwise? Thanks again!
  8. Hi there! I have to warn you this may be a newbie question! Is there a printing quality difference between the printers of the Ultimaker range? The resolution is the quite same for all the models but are the latest printers more accurate and reliable? This because I'm considering to upgrade my current UMO+ with an UM2+ or an UM3. I'm very pleased with the machine, I think it does great work, but I need to print parts quite quickly and I'm experiencing some aesthetic defects like irregular stripes when I decrease the quality (I asume it is normal as it is called "draft" or "coarse"). With the equivalent settings, would the overall printing quality be better with an UM2+ or an UM3. ANd is there a big difference between these two models? Thanks in advance for sharing your experience!
  9. I still struggle to assign one extruder to the shell and the other one to the infill. For two different parts on the plate it is very easy, but for different areas of one same part I can't figure out how to do this. Is it necessay to divide the model before or something like that?
  10. Ok. I think I had a misconception of the situation before your explanations. I assumed that the extruded strings could be considered as round, I mean with a circular section. And so that to have thinner strings on the shell, it was necessay to have more layers locally, like on this scheme. Is my understanding better now?
  11. Thanks for your comment Ahoeben! This is very good to know! I added an UM3 on Cura and I tried to assign one extruder to the infill and the other one to the shell just to see the impact it has on duration, but I can't figure out how to set this up. I don't find eather the "Infill layer thickness" setting you talk about. I only have "Infill density". But according to the link posted by Kmanstudios, it should be possible It says: "A print core with a 0.8 mm nozzle has been assigned to print infill and inner walls here, while a 0.4 mm nozzle has been assigned to print all other features with more detail. This combination ensures significantly reduced print times." Maybe there is a special setting to activate first?
  12. Thanks a lot for sharing this! Do you know if this is possible with every printer of the Ultimaker range, provided that some adaptations are made? Or is it only a feature available on the last model? Thanks again!
  13. Hi community! I may have a challenging question for you experts: I'm wondering if it is possible to set up different layer heights for the infill and the shell? This because I would like to reduce the printing duration of solid parts (100% infill) while keeping good extrenal surfaces quality. It seems possible to me to have for instance two layers on the shell for each internal layer (with twice thinner strings at the shell level), at least theoretically. Maybe using two nozzles with two different diameters? What I don't know is does the slicing enables this kind of setting or not? I couldn't find anything about this kind of setting. I could have missed some topics. If you already did or if you are aware of stuff like that, I'll be glad to learn more about it! Thanks for your help, Elie
  14. To follow-up: the printing quality seems to be good in the end, despite the underextrusion I can see during the build-up on the inner walls. I measured the tube end diameter and it's around 6.4 as over the entire length so I assume the issue I had was a bad connection with the coupler. Thanks again for all the advices!
  15. Thanks for your reply! Yes I can measure it. I launched another large part test and it's printing without clogging. The shell looks fine. Only the inner walls are underextruded. I'll do the checks you suggest after this print. If I remember well the end of the tube is a bit scratched but not really worn.
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