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LeoDude

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  • Country
    GB
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    Medicine

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  1. With Raise3D Pro 2 feeding system is inside the machine is bad and good at same time, bad you would be limited to the space, good that it is completely closed system, no dust inside, no uncontrolled heat escaping, dump etc, even have HEPA filter . Still waiting for online reviews for this machine, but from 1st look its promising with price tag less harsh than UMS5.
  2. Disappointed in the price to be honest, now I shift my eye to Raise3D Pro 2, as for £3,149 + tax somewhat affordable, as even in business prospective I couldn't find an excuse of spending £5095 + Tax on upgrading. Not to mention, when I got Original Prusa MK3, wow, what a machine, a best for £900 (assembled) truly amassing . Thought after buying MK3 it would be backup to my UM2E+, but the opposite occur.
  3. fbrc8-erin you are a shinning star. Many thanks, solved it using your instructions. UK Support should learned from you. It was dead easy to fix, but needed a an illustration rather than just words. Many thanks again, you saved the day.
  4. Great I will try that. Many thanks for your helpful reply, much appreciated.
  5. Ultimaker UK support suggested this Looks like the print head axis is catching on the 2x Z shafts at the back of the machine. Please check this by moving the print head left to right and check if the print head axis hits them both. All you need to do is move the print head axis forward so it is not catching. You may need to pop it out of the black sliding blocks to do this. Unfortunately without a video or guided photos (which I asked the supporter about, said unfortunately he do not have) its mambo jambo to me. I tried to look online abo
  6. Dear Ultimakers, I just bought a new UM2E+, on 1st prints knocking noise was coming out from the printer. I tried to sense the culprit through touching various part during knocking, but no use. Checked all the belt and there was X axis belt lose & I tighten up, but still knocking sound there. Knocking sound does not appear coming from the feeder. It is definitely coming from the X axis, as I just switched the printer off, and moved the head fast on both X & Y axis's, Y no knocking, while the X showing the same knocking sound when it prints, with kno
  7. Thanks for the reply to my question. I do not think its a matter of hot end being of low efficacy, as the printer fairly new, not to mention I just changed to PrimaValue Grey filament & printing on 195C without a problem. And the print is rock sold. If it was the case with all filament, then would say the hot end not doing a great job like the new one. But its is a solo event with eSUN filament. Is it normal for some filament that you need higher temperature than their recommended range? without thinking its a hot end fault as its always printing within
  8. Dear Ultimakers, I started using eSUN PLA Black filament, the recommended temperature on the filament saying 190-220C, I begun with 200C & print would not stick to the raft (after few layers above the raft the print would warp & detached from the raft), I increased printing temperature by 5C each test till reaching temperature 235C when everything turn OK with no faulty print & no show of over heating on the print itself. Is there something wrong as I went 15C above recommended temperature? (P.S. I always print PLA with no heated bed just blue tape & glue). I check
  9. I am not into painting 3D prints. Also the idea of having limitless possibility when come to PVA fascinates me. I am still in the lazy mode, that looking for reliable printers i.e. not yet into tinkering so Zortrax & Ultimaker is my ultimate machines (till now didn't do anything rather than change nozzle & lubricate axes) . I Was looking into Rova4d, it is crazy (full colour) 3D printer. But seems not much popular as no reviews and not cheap to take the risk of buying one.
  10. I was trying to find a cheaper option of dual extruder, but do not want to compromise reliability & print quality. I studied every possible options (I think), returned back to UM3. There are many China products, they would say they are the best for example if you search youtube saying best 3D printer CR-10 will come up by many revisers. But I came to conclusion they are not comparing these printers to industrial professional quality printers. They are comparing them to budget printers, and I surpass these kind of (swearing) printers :). I have UM2+ & Zortrax M200, but see
  11. I am also thinking to buy UM3, as checked raise3D N2 dual which had some bad issues did not like. - Would not print PVA support, some people tried without success. - No lifting mechanism for the extruder (so big possibility to ruin your print when hit by the 2nd extruder. - If for any reason want to level the heated bed it would be a pain. - And Joel the 3d printing Nerd did not like the idea that can't control the fan, and it will blow air even when doing the 1st layer of printing as it is the same fan blow air to the extruders. Also had a problem closing the side
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