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LeoDude

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  • Field of Work
    Medicine
  • Country
    GB
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2+

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  1. LeoDude

    Ultimaker S5 | impressions & opinions

    With Raise3D Pro 2 feeding system is inside the machine is bad and good at same time, bad you would be limited to the space, good that it is completely closed system, no dust inside, no uncontrolled heat escaping, dump etc, even have HEPA filter . Still waiting for online reviews for this machine, but from 1st look its promising with price tag less harsh than UMS5.
  2. LeoDude

    Ultimaker S5 | impressions & opinions

    Disappointed in the price to be honest, now I shift my eye to Raise3D Pro 2, as for £3,149 + tax somewhat affordable, as even in business prospective I couldn't find an excuse of spending £5095 + Tax on upgrading. Not to mention, when I got Original Prusa MK3, wow, what a machine, a best for £900 (assembled) truly amassing . Thought after buying MK3 it would be backup to my UM2E+, but the opposite occur.
  3. LeoDude

    Knocking noise when printing

    fbrc8-erin you are a shinning star. Many thanks, solved it using your instructions. UK Support should learned from you. It was dead easy to fix, but needed a an illustration rather than just words. Many thanks again, you saved the day.
  4. LeoDude

    Knocking noise when printing

    Great I will try that. Many thanks for your helpful reply, much appreciated.
  5. LeoDude

    Knocking noise when printing

    Ultimaker UK support suggested this Looks like the print head axis is catching on the 2x Z shafts at the back of the machine. Please check this by moving the print head left to right and check if the print head axis hits them both. All you need to do is move the print head axis forward so it is not catching. You may need to pop it out of the black sliding blocks to do this. Unfortunately without a video or guided photos (which I asked the supporter about, said unfortunately he do not have) its mambo jambo to me. I tried to look online about any demo about fixing the problem, no luck. I am disappointed with Ultimaker support, it should be better than this. (Zortrax is with the best support ever, but their machine not as good as Ultimaker, so I had to let go of Zortrax).
  6. Dear Ultimakers, I just bought a new UM2E+, on 1st prints knocking noise was coming out from the printer. I tried to sense the culprit through touching various part during knocking, but no use. Checked all the belt and there was X axis belt lose & I tighten up, but still knocking sound there. Knocking sound does not appear coming from the feeder. It is definitely coming from the X axis, as I just switched the printer off, and moved the head fast on both X & Y axis's, Y no knocking, while the X showing the same knocking sound when it prints, with knocking specifically been heard at 2 positions. If you divide the X axis to half the sound will be heard on the middle of the right & the left halves. Thanks in advance for the help.
  7. LeoDude

    eSUN PLA Filament

    Thanks for the reply to my question. I do not think its a matter of hot end being of low efficacy, as the printer fairly new, not to mention I just changed to PrimaValue Grey filament & printing on 195C without a problem. And the print is rock sold. If it was the case with all filament, then would say the hot end not doing a great job like the new one. But its is a solo event with eSUN filament. Is it normal for some filament that you need higher temperature than their recommended range? without thinking its a hot end fault as its always printing within the range with Ultimaker, PrimaValue & polymaker filaments, or still it might be a hot end problem?
  8. LeoDude

    eSUN PLA Filament

    Dear Ultimakers, I started using eSUN PLA Black filament, the recommended temperature on the filament saying 190-220C, I begun with 200C & print would not stick to the raft (after few layers above the raft the print would warp & detached from the raft), I increased printing temperature by 5C each test till reaching temperature 235C when everything turn OK with no faulty print & no show of over heating on the print itself. Is there something wrong as I went 15C above recommended temperature? (P.S. I always print PLA with no heated bed just blue tape & glue). I checked filament again if it is PLA+ but it says just PLA. I used before Ultimaker Metallic Silver PLA, PrimaValue black & white PLA Filament, Polymaker White filament all within 210 & below without a problem. And just before changing to eSUN I was printing with PrimaValue Black PLA Filament at 195C. Same model without a problem. Thank you in advance for your input.
  9. LeoDude

    Ultimaker 3

    I am not into painting 3D prints. Also the idea of having limitless possibility when come to PVA fascinates me. I am still in the lazy mode, that looking for reliable printers i.e. not yet into tinkering so Zortrax & Ultimaker is my ultimate machines (till now didn't do anything rather than change nozzle & lubricate axes) . I Was looking into Rova4d, it is crazy (full colour) 3D printer. But seems not much popular as no reviews and not cheap to take the risk of buying one.
  10. LeoDude

    Ultimaker 3

    I was trying to find a cheaper option of dual extruder, but do not want to compromise reliability & print quality. I studied every possible options (I think), returned back to UM3. There are many China products, they would say they are the best for example if you search youtube saying best 3D printer CR-10 will come up by many revisers. But I came to conclusion they are not comparing these printers to industrial professional quality printers. They are comparing them to budget printers, and I surpass these kind of (swearing) printers :). I have UM2+ & Zortrax M200, but seems I became addicted to 3D printers and now I want UM3, even though after buying UM2+, Zortrax collecting dust, but still do not have the nerve to sell it as Zortrax is the master of ABS, unfortunately I tried ABS with UM2+ & disappointed (do not sick and print was so brittle when contacted UM support they did not had a clue, so stick to PLA as I have Zortrax for ABS (Zortrax do not need enclosed cover to print ABS successfully from experience). Not to mention Zortrax Inventure is disappointing if comparing it to UM3 if the one want to consider it as dual extruder.
  11. LeoDude

    Ultimaker 3

    I am also thinking to buy UM3, as checked raise3D N2 dual which had some bad issues did not like. - Would not print PVA support, some people tried without success. - No lifting mechanism for the extruder (so big possibility to ruin your print when hit by the 2nd extruder. - If for any reason want to level the heated bed it would be a pain. - And Joel the 3d printing Nerd did not like the idea that can't control the fan, and it will blow air even when doing the 1st layer of printing as it is the same fan blow air to the extruders. Also had a problem closing the side doors when loading filaments (so you have to be careful about choosing the filament. So left the idea of buying the raise3D N2 dual. The price for UM3 is a bit steep (compare it to size of raise3D N2 dual), that what stopping me for the moment - just hoping for any shop to offer a discount & will go for it even though I think its a dream as all shops have same price may be price controlled by UM themselves. BCN3D Sigma R17 3D printer has the capability of printing PVA, but reviews disappointing.
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