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3D Prints
Posts posted by Enigma_M4
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Hi @Dols,
you got the feeders for the S-line printers and are in the comfortable position, to decide, which far you want to use them, as the UM3 is capable to deal with the flow sensor (which originally was developed for the UM3, but never officially implemented).
The following thread should provide you with all information needed to unleash the full power of your new feeders (or just reverse the direction, which requires only crossing two wires):
I've upgraded both of my feeders some time ago and just LOVE them.
Regards
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Hi,
the part number of the camera assembly is 9689 (see page 33 of the parts manual)
AFAIK every official Ultimaker reseller should be able to sell it.
Are you sure the cable is not there (routed next to the LED-strip)?
Regards
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Hi,
afaik, there is no other way than manual levelling. But if your leveling is good, why don't you just skip the first steps of the leveling process without any changes and only tune the offset, which is done only with the encoding wheel, without touching the leveling screws?
Regards
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Hi,
is your lift switch (which moves the right nozzle up and down) calibrated properly? This can be checkt by running the lift switch test in the printer. Possibly you've to run the lift switch calibration process.
Regards
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Hi,
is your lift switch (which moves the right nozzle up and down) calibrated properly? This can be checkt by running the lift switch test in the printer. Possibly you've to run the lift switch calibration process.
Regards
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Hi,
for me it sounds like the lift switch is out of calibration.
Did you try to (re)calibrate the lift switch?
Regards
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The one rule of thumb for handling filament:
there are only three positions for the end of the filament:
- fixed to the spool
- inserted in the feeder
- in your hand
Every other position sooner or later will lead to a mess 😉.
Regards
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Hallo @7up,
ob die Feeder Version 2 auch nutzbar ist, kann ich Dir leider nicht genau sagen, aber nach der Aussage von @CarloK im anderen Beitrag...
...scheint dort eine andere Elektronik Verwendung zu finden, mit der die aktuelle Firmware des UM3 wohl nichts anfangen kann. Aber nix genaues weiß ich leider nicht 😉. Vielleicht funktionierts, vielleicht nicht.
Ich kann nur sagen: mit den V1-Feedern läuft mein UM3 super. Wenn/falls es ein Firmware-Update geben sollte, müßten halt die Änderungen in der Firmware nochmal gemacht werden (sofern man nicht die Permanent-Variante gewählt hat), dafür hab' ich mir die geänderte Datei auf dem Rechner zwischengespeichert...
"Schrotten" kann man den UM3 mit dem Umbau nicht. Der einzige permanente Eingriff am Drucker sind die beiden Bohrmulden an der Gehäuserückseite, alles andere (Feeder, "Umbau" der Stecker, Freischaltung der Firmware) ist reversibel.
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Hi,
is your front fan clean and running? Your problem sounds like there's heat creep involved.
Regards
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Hi,
for access to the motherboard, this article by @fbrc8-erin may be helpful for you:
https://www.ultimakernasupport.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004187366-Electronics-Board
Routing the new cable along the path of the old one should be no problem ;-).
Regards
PS: Sorry, didn't notice You have an S5, as the video-links of @Torgeir misleaded me; maybe the link is helpful anyway.
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Hi,
these two instructions may be helpful for you (especially the second one, as your problem points to not proper aligned axles):
https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667417951326
https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667412443401
Regards
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Place the print roughly into the rectangles (your calibration sheet seems to be improperly scaled) and take the long line closest to the 0 as reference (like on your foto: the 0 and the line inside the circle belong together).
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Hi,
in my oppinion, it's not far off.
The long lines refer to the "10"s (and the 0), the middle lines refer to the "5"s. You just need to identify the "0" for reference.
Regards
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Hi,
the part numbers for the front fan magnets is 2139 (at least for the UM3, but the magnets for the front fan flap of the UM3 and the S5 are identical). So contact your reseller, they should be able to sell you the part(s), like this German reseller:
https://www.igo3d.com/ultimaker-s5-frontfan-magnet
Regards
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Das ist auch meine Vermutung, aber ich kenn' mich mit der MS nicht aus (nur recht gut mit dem UM3).
Hier sind jedoch die offiziellen Dokumente und Anleitungen zur MS zu finden:
https://support.ultimaker.com/s/topic/0TO5b000000Q4wNGAS/material-station
Von dort kommt man in drei verschiedene Untersektionen, die jeweils hilfreiche PDFs enthalten. Vielleicht ist da was dabei, das für Dich nützlich ist.
Grüße
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Also, die beiden Kerben sind ganz klassische Frässpuren, die entstehen, wenn der Feeder das Filament erfolglos zu transportieren versucht. Das Filament hängt also beim Retract-Versuch fest, oder die Düse ist beim Vorschub-Versuch blockiert.
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Hi Dan,
that a bit reminds me to myself. I was a strong user of DesignSpark Mechanical 5 as long as it worked, and the learning curve was pretty flat, for designing projects of your own or for modifying existing STLs; a really nice program for free. But the RS-Guys changed their politics and made three subscription lines: one for free, one for little money and one for much money. In the free subscription, importing STLs or STEP-files no longer is possible.
So, heavy-hearted, I decided to switch over to FreeCad. It's open source and community-developed, compareable to linux.
No cost, no restrictions, and a very powerful program, parametric like Fusion.
BUT: the learning curve is as steep as Mt. Everest (at least coming from the non-parametric Designspark), with a wiki-dokumenation and a lot of youtube tutorials.
I've gone this path anyway; I guess, FreeCad will never charge it's users any money, and if they will some day, old versions never expire. So this change might be worth the effort.
Regards
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Hi,
possibly this thread is helpful:
Regards
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What about the "Barbarian Units"-Plugin by @nallath in the marketplace? It converts from inches to mm if needed and selected.
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I upgraded my UM3 with S5 feeders (rev1) some time ago, using the documents by @polygonfuture and they work like a charm (I've not used abrasive filaments with the CC-cores so far, so I'm only used to the flow sensors).
The sensors can be activated and deactivated in the printer menu and instantly detect any flow rate lower than 80%, like clogged nozzles or filament run-out.
The little tinkering that's needed to fit the feeders (drilling a small pocket and changing two wires in a connector) can be done by everyone, who's able to maintain a printer. The E-steps stay the same, as the sprockets of the feeders of UM3 and S5 are the same size. The only thing that's a bit tricky is adapting the firmware via SSH, but the description is step-by-step, so I (a windows 7 user with no experience in linux and SSH) was able to do it.
Afaik, the new S5 feeders just changed the knurling of the feeder-wheel, so they might work.
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Bonjour Victor,
Je ne peux malheureusement pas non plus te dire quelle est la référence de la pièce que tu cherches, mais voici un lien sur Youmagine où tu trouveras le fichier STL à imprimer toi-même (en espérant que tu aies actuellement accès à une imprimante qui fonctionne).https://www.youmagine.com/designs/feeder-tension-indicator-for-um3-e-ultimaker-2plus
Salutations(traduit de l'allemand vers le français avec "DeepL")
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That would be good. Pics of the prints or problems tell a lot and the real experts may be able to lead the way.
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Well, a factory reset solves a lot of issues, but also requires total calibration from scratch.
I think, first thing is consulting the user manual. If you don't have one, it can be found here:
https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667337567558
If the printer was in poor condition (as you mentioned in your other post?), you should do general maintenance first (cleaning the printer, check and tighten the screws of the printer's frame (not part of the maintenance procedure, but definitely worth it), check the axle play and alignment, cleaning the printcores, lubricating the axles and Z-screw etc.) If your problems are hardware-based, this should solve them and you don't need to factory reset (which only resets the software of your printer).
And one realy good step (that you've already gone) is using the forum. Ask your questions, the more specific and detailled they are, the sooner you'll get response.
Regards
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First Layer Doesn't Stick Properly
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Hi,
just one shot out of the blue, but feeder problems could also include a worn out feeder arm, like in this post:
Regards