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3D Prints
Posts posted by Enigma_M4
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Hi,
um ein bisschen mehr Licht in die Angelegenheit zu bringen, hier ein paar Grundlagen des 3D-Drucks (wobei ich auch nur ein Heim-Anwender bin, daher kein Anspruch auf absolute Wahrheit oder Vollständigkeit 😉 )
- ein 3D-Objekt wird mit Hilfe einer CAD-Software oder einer 3D-Modellierungssoftware erstellt (z.B. das genannte Fusion 360, DesignsparkMechanical, Freecad etc. "Tinkerkad" scheint sich nicht so gut zu eignen).
- das erstellte Objekt wird in ein gängiges Ausgabeformat gespeichert. Veraltet, aber noch immer Standard ist ".STL".
- die Objekt (.STL)-Datei (entweder selbst erstellt, oder von den üblichen Quellen wie Youmagine.com, Thingiverse.com, printables.com etc., heruntergeladen) wird in ein Slicer-Programm (z.B. CURA) geladen und von dort in eine G-Code-Datei umgewandelt, die dem Drucker die einzelnen Arbeitsschritte vorgibt.
- die G-Code-Datei wird dann, entweder über Netzwerk oder per Speicherkarte, in den Drucker geladen und dieser macht seine Arbeit.
Grüße
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Hi,
I've no experience with the UM2 (only UM3), but it sounds like a linear bearing of the printhead being the culprit.
Regards
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Hi,
I fear that's not possible, at least not the official way, as the printcores are -afaik- designed as consumables in whole.
Perhaps there are some replacement parts available on second market (I know that at least replacement nozzles are available), but it is and will always be a tinker-solution, which I for myself would not relay on.
Regards
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Hab's gerade eben testweise versucht. Login geht problemlos, ist also kein generelles Seitenproblem.
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Well, some more information would be helpful, such as which type of printer (UM3 or S-line) it is, and possibly some photos of the printhead (inside without the second printcore) and the printcore.
The problem you describe seems to be lift switch related, perhaps the lift switch assembly is not assenbled properly. Often the lift switch spring is displaced or with the spring of the printcore could be something wrong.
If you change the printcore, does the problem persist?
Regards
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Hallo,
soweit ich die Fotos erkennen kann sieht es so aus, als wäre Dein Düsenabstand zum Druckbett zu groß, so daß die erste Schicht nicht richtig aufs Druckbett gepresst wird.
Grüße
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Hi,
alternatively you could use the feeders of the S5, including the flow sensor:
Regards
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Hallo Elofix,
Deine Achsen stehen schief (sind nicht senkrecht zueinander).
Die zur Neueinstellung erforderliche Prozedur findest Du hier:
https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667412443401
Viele Grüße und viel Erfolg.
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Hi,
every Ultimaker reseller should have them available.
If you have no reseller, look here:
https://ultimaker.com/resellers/overview
Regards
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Hi and welcome to 3D printing.
The most common sites for free 3D files are
https://www.printables.com and
there are a lot other sites in the web. Just ask your preferred search engine for 3d files, 3d templates or stl-files.
Regards
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Bonjour mulderfox,
la réponse simple et malheureusement dure est la suivante : Cura 5.0 et versions ultérieures ne fonctionnent plus sous Windows 7, mais uniquement sous Windows 10 et 11. 😪
Salutations(traduit de l'allemand vers le français avec "DeepL")
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Hi,
probably the culprit is your feeder.
Is the feeder clean inside (afaik maintenance shedule recommends cleaning every month) and is the feeder tension set properly?
Regards
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Hallo Xenato,
suchst Du vielleicht sowas?
https://www.igo3d.com/Filafarm-Switch-FilaPrint-Original-Glatt-Ultimaker-S5-inklBorosilikatglas
Grüße
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Hi Alex,
thanks a lot for the update and the valuable informations.
Happy printing!
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Hi Alex,
this sounds weird, but regarding to your description, you've done a lot of research and know what you're doing.
When you write the recovery images are not working, I suppose download was ok, but they didn't recover your UM3?
Do you know which firmware version your UM3 was before the "update"?
Perhaps @gr5 or @CarloK have some solution for you.
Regards
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Hi,
a printable version can be found on thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2742644
But the temperature warning from @MariMakes made me rethink using it.
Regards
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Hi,
another culprit could also be a worn out feeder arm, as mentioned in these threads:
or
Regards
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Bonjour !
si vous souhaitez tout de même utiliser le feeder sur l'UM3 (ce qui est possible, capteur inclus), l'article suivant pourrait vous intéresser :La transformation n'est pas très difficile.
Salutations
(traduit de l'allemand avec DeepL)- 1
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Hi,
for your interest, the mentioned spacer tool can be found here:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool
Regards
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Hallo,
@gr5 hat eine schöne Sammlung zu dem Thema zusammengestellt:
Auf der verlinkten Seite sind alle Infos, die benötigt werden.
Grüße
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... and another valuable source of knowledge are the youtube-videos provided by @fbrc8-erin:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRBgc5zvVEBMU9o7YjCzFYA/videos
They give insight in the function of the printer while showing how to fix some minor or bigger issues.
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For first orientation, you could try this:
https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013053880-Ultimaker-3-PDF-manuals
the site also contains a lot of information and possibly is exactly what you're looking for.
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Support is always waste material, which is meant to be removed after the print is finished.
With single extruder printers (only one nozzle), it's the same material as the "main" print, with dual extruder printers (like the UM3, two nozzles), you can chose a different material for support, like PVA, which is water soluble (so you just can submerge your finished print in a bucket of water and after some hours the support is gone itself), or breakaway, which has to be removed manually, but is easier to remove than normal print materials.
Difficulty working through Manual and Active Leveling on Ultimaker 3
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Hi,
just one note to the great and detailled instructions by @gr5 two posts above:
As the UM3 needs a distance between the platform and the print bed of about 14mm for active leveling to work, the first adjustment of the thumb screws (befor the leveling procedure) should be done respective. That's where the leveling tool comes into play.
If the distance is to far off the 14mm, active leveling won't work.
Regards