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Enigma_M4

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Posts posted by Enigma_M4

  1. Hi,

    according to the lever, you also could just print a new one, for example this improvement:

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-3-extruder-lever-mod

    I used it on both feeders and loved it, until I upgraded the feeders.

    If you exchange your feeder with a new one (and are not afraid of very little tinkering), you also could upgrade to the S5-Feeder(s):

    The costs for the S5-feeders are about the same as for the UM3 feeders, and the upgrade also contains abrasive-resistance and the filament flow sensor.

    Regards

     

  2. Hi,

    if you're running UM3s or S-line printers connected to your network, you could also refer to the printer's API (entering the printer's IP-adress in your browser). In the statistics tab there's much information about successful and aborted print jobs, used materials and material combinations etc.

    Regards

  3. On 7/30/2022 at 12:16 AM, john3m said:

    Is there a button on the forum that alerts me to replies and  PM’s?

    Hi,

    that's what the notifications bell (upper right, besides your avatar and the PM-envelope) is meant for. In the notification settings (press the bell) you also can set which type of event is shown by the bell and/or by E-Mail.

    Regards

  4. 1 hour ago, ahoeben said:

    The nozzle is not the only factor in wear resistance. The UM3 feeder (on the back of the printer) is not designed to be used with abrasive materials. I don't know by heart if there is a profile for the BASF material on the UM3. If there isn't, the reason is probably that UM thinks that the UM3 is not abrasion-resistant enough.

    The feeder issue can be solved by "upgrading" to the S5-feeder (first version), which also includes the flow sensor.

    I don't know how the activation of the "abrasive resistance feature" in the firmware works for acceptance of the CC cores or material profiles, but there must be a reason for this firmware entry...

    Perhaps someone from Ultimaker (possibly @SandervG or @CarloK) could bring some light into the darkness?

    Regards

  5. Hi,

    of course you can. That's the reason why the UM3 originally is equipped with one BB and two AA cores (the second AA core is meant to replace the BB Core if other material than PVA is printed).

    Regards

     

    By the way: it is possible to print PLA with the BB Core, but it is not recommended because of oozing.

    • Like 1
  6. Hallo,

    das was Du suchst dürfte mit "Pause at hight" (in Cura zu finden unter "Erweiterungen -> Nachbearbeitung -> G-Code ändern") zu machen sein.

    Einzelheiten kann ich Dir jetzt leider nicht mit auf den Weg geben, bis auf den Tip, einfach mal auf youtube zu suchen, da gibts gute Erklärungsvideos, wie zum Beispiel das hier:

     

    Grüße

     

    PS: erstellte Scripts bleiben so lange aktiv, bis sie wieder entfernt werden, also auch über mehrere Programmstarts hinweg.

  7. On 6/15/2022 at 4:14 AM, gr5 said:

    There is an extremely simple procedure to do this in the menu system on the S5.

    This answer is also valid for the UM3 (as it's mentioned in the tags, I suppose the problem is with an UM3).

    For detailed instruction see:

    https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011474120-How-to-calibrate-the-Lift-switch-on-the-Ultimaker-3

     

    Regards

  8. Hi,

    to your main question: afaik the print core cooling is controlled by firmware only. The fan runs 100% when one core is hotter than 60°C and is off at 59°C and below.

    If this material is so heat conductive, it possibly can (must?) be printed at lower temp. Here possibly doing a temp tower for examining the coldest possible print temperature could be reasonable?

    Regards

  9. Hi xuyao,

    the temparature graph can be found in the printer API. Your UM3 just has to be connected to your network, either by WIFI or Ethernet.

    Type the printer's IP-Adress into your browser and in the appearing menu select "temparature graph" (should be the lower left point).

    Regards

     

    • Like 1
  10. 38 minutes ago, mkaj2019 said:

    Sieht meines Erachtens wie ein Heatcreep aus

    Das würde dann aber bedeuten, daß höchstwahrscheinlich der Druckkopflüfter (der mittlere, in der Abdeckungsklappe) nicht funktioniert. Wenn der Lüfter bei Drukkopftemperaturen von 50°C und höher nicht automatisch anläuft, haben wir den Schuldigen. Entweder ist der Lüfter mit Filamentfäden zugesetzt oder (wenn der Wartungsplan, https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011597119-Ultimaker-3-maintenance-schedule , eingehalten wurde, wahrscheinlicher) es könnte am Kabel liegen.

  11. Das Upgrade, das @orlin278 erwähnt hat, hat nicht nur den Vorteil der leichteren Bedienung (schon fast S-Line-Feeling), sondern zugleich eine längere, und damit verbesserte, Filamentführung im Vergleich zum Originalhebel. Und hier im Forum gibt's mehrere Beiträge, in denen Extrusionsprobleme auf verschlissene Originalhebel zurückzuführen waren (das Filament hat die Öffnung ausgeschliffen und sich dort festgesetzt). Also ein weiterer möglicher Grund für das Ursprungsproblem, dem nachzugehen sich lohnt.

    Ich selbst hab' den modifizierten Hebel lange benutzt, bis ich auf den S5-Feeder aufgerüstet habe:

    Grüße

  12. On 5/17/2022 at 8:52 PM, ahoeben said:

    Cura 5 is not longer compatible with Windows 7.

    For the Win7-fans outside there (like me): it's possible to run Win10 in a virtual machine (instead of upgrading the whole Win7 system). Although this workaround looks like TARDIS (inside bigger than outside), the new Cura 5.0 is worth it 🙂.

    Regards

    • Like 2
  13. 9 hours ago, nallath said:

    That's because we don't support windows 7 anymore. It's been EOL for 2 years now, so we had no other choice but drop support.

    Thank you, @nallath, for the info. Although it's no good news, especially for participants of the Win7 extended lifetime program, it prevents me from wasting time trying to bugfix.

  14. The upper end of the scale is least tension, the lower end is most tension. the plug with the indicator sits ontop of the tension spring and is pushed down against this spring by the set screw.

    What do you mean with jacking? Is the stepper motor skipping (this would be a sign of to much tension), or is the filament slipping (to little tension)?

    Do the markings on the filament look like this?

    https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012112759-The-feeder-of-my-Ultimaker-2-go-extended-is-ticking-back-skipping

    As I'm getting at my wit's end, adjusting the tension gradually to the point where the filament is extruded through the nozzle and the feeder has a good grip is the only thing I can suggest.

    Regards

  15. For the UM2+ / UM3-feeder and newer, the middle position is told to be the best, and as the UM2 feeder is very close to the UM3, I'd say try middle position. Light markings on the filament show good tension. If the markings are very deep, reduce tension (scale: up), if it's grinding the filament (like your starting problem), the tension might be too lose, referring to CNC Kitchen's video.

    Regards

  16. As I wrote in my first post, the set screw is the culprit.

    At your feeder, the head of this screw is exposed outside the feeder housing.

    But this screw head must be INSIDE the feeder, just below the hole it's sticking out, as seen on the foto of your manual:

    Feeder_tension.jpg

     

    If this screw is positioned right, it's supported by the top of the feeder housing and screwing it "out" will increase feeder tension, meaning the indicator going down. Your actual feeder tension is zero.

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