GregValiant

I don't see that on my machine. If the firmware is configured that way then that's what it is. I moved the F parameter to the end and it made no difference. Other slicers always put the feedrate at the end. The parameter is in the line for that move and it should be obeyed as an absolute value for the move.

"line 6 will decelerate from 5000mm/min to 1000mm/min over the course of the move," ??? Line 6 should be a move back to X10 at 1000mm/min. There can be no "gradual change over the course of the move" from 5000 to 1000.

You can query the printer for "where are you right now" using M114 but it requires a USB connection that can read the response and then the response would need to be parsed. Parsing a response requires an additional app as Cura doesn't really "communicate" (it's "send" only), and although Pronterface will display a response, it doesn't do any parsing. You can see that all of that goes well beyond what can be done in your Ending G-code. This is a response to M114 from my older Ender 3 Pro. The last three numbers are the "steps" that have been sent to get it to the current XYZ location. X:111.22 Y:111.22 Z:5.20 E:1123.57 Count X:8880 Y:9280 Z:2080

There is a bug in the "initial_extruder_nr" replacement pattern. It always returns "0" rather than the actual tool number. You have it in two places in your startup gcode. Hopefully it will be addressed in Cura 5.7.0. A workaround is to remove the temperature lines from your StartUp Gcode and allow Cura to determine temperatures. It might not be as efficient as a custom one but it should work. This is from the BIBO definition file and has my suggestions. ;M104 T0 165 ; remove ;M104 T1 165 ; remove M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; alter G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z2.0 F400 ;move the platform down 2mm ;T0 ; remove G92 E0 G28 G1 Y0 F1200 E0 G92 E0 ;T{initial_extruder_nr} ; remove M117 BIBO Printing...

Here is the Monoprice guide pamphlet.

The "Time Lapse" plugin should be available under the "Extensions / Post Processing / Modify Gcode" menu, and then "Add a Script". I did a slight rewrite of the "Time Lapse" script. This one allows you to choose how often to take a picture rather than always being every layer. Unzip and put "TimeLapse_GV.py" into the Configuration Folder ("Help | Show Configuration Folder") and the "scripts" sub-folder. TimeLapse_GV.zip

Double check the E-steps. My opinion is that the single wall calibration cubes are completely misleading and cause more problems than they are worth.

I DO NOT want to see what you are using for a model.

In the Cura go to Manage Printers and then Machine Settings. In the lower left textbox is the "Ending Gcode". It is the script that shuts down the machine. Copy what you have there (use CTRL+V) and paste it here. You need something like... G0 F{speed_travel*60} Y{machine_depth} Z{machine_height} Cura would replace the keywords and you would get something like G0 F7200 Y230 Z250 But exactly where it goes in the ending gcode is important so post what you have and let us know what printer we are talking about because some have the zero in the rear and some ending gcodes include G28 homing commands or go into relative movement, so you will likely need something different.

"...there are so many factors and variables that are involved" You said a mouthful there! Even something that seems simple, like changing from red to white, can require slightly different settings. There was a poster on Reddit who attempted to build some sort of speed demon Ender. They were printing at 300mm/sec or something and the print looked like a pile of poop. They didn't have near enough cooling capability for what they were trying to do. "Everything affects Everything" and "Every print needs it's own love". Patience and getting a slice just right will save more time than attempting to print at 1000. FDM is not a fast process.

This is your project on my Ender 3 Pro. It is PETG because that is the scrap I had to play with so the temperatures are different. My other change was that all your "flows" are at 95% so I tuned that to 110% (I typically run PETG at 105%). If I adjust the flash and turn the model just right I can see some ringing. I'm not sure what to make of that. The model must be turned exactly right for it to be noticeable. You have already checked the mechanicals so let's go back to @gr5's comment regarding the "under-extrusion". Have you calibrated the E-steps on the printer? Did you stop there (perfect!) or did you use some sort of single wall "calibration cube" to make further adjustments?

From the Ender 5 S1 definition file: "speed_print": { "value": 80.0 }, From the Creality Base definition file: "machine_max_feedrate_x": { "value": 200 }, "machine_max_feedrate_y": { "value": 200 }, "machine_max_feedrate_z": { "value": 35 }, "machine_max_feedrate_e": { "value": 50 }, "machine_max_acceleration_x": { "value": 2000 }, "machine_max_acceleration_y": { "value": 2000 }, "machine_max_acceleration_z": { "value": 100 }, "machine_max_acceleration_e": { "value": 5000 }, "machine_acceleration": { "value": 1000 }, None of that tells you what the actual Max Feedrates are in the printer. You need to send an M503 and view the response. This is a snippet from the M503 response for my Ender 3 Pro. echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s): echo: M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z45.00 E50.00 echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2): echo: M201 X3000 Y3000 Z100 E1000 echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P<print_accel> R<retract_accel> T<travel_accel> echo: M204 P1000.00 R1000.00 T1000.00 echo:Advanced: S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> B<min_segment_time_us> X<max_xy_jerk> Z<max_z_jerk> E<max_e_jerk> echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Y20.00 Z0.40 E5.00 The print speed comes into play on large models with a lot of straight lines. If a model is small or has fine details, the nozzle spends a lot of time accelerating and decelerating so the average speed (and consequently the print time) won't vary beyond a certain point.

I agree it's a problem at the printer. Here are a couple of things you can check. Check the belt tension. They should "twang like the strings on a bass guitar". With the hot end cold - wiggle the nozzle. Sometimes the hot end can come loose and wobble. Try to wiggle the printhead. If the trolley wheels are out of adjustment the printhead can "cant" one way when it's moving to the left and another way when it's moving to the right. It can also wobble. Check for play in the build table. Those trolley wheels can also get out of adjustment. Some of the trolley wheels will have a hex shaped spacer. That is the adjuster. Slightly loosen the retaining nut and rotate the hex, and a cam on the end will move the wheel into the slot, or away from the slot. When you can just turn every wheel with two fingers they are correctly adjusted. Hold the hex adjuster with a wrench so it doesn't rotate when you re-tighten the retaining nuts.

For some of this stuff I have to get out my slip-stick.

The "skin" is added because of the part geometry. It's an angled area and the slices are always parallel to the build surface. That's why getting rid of the "skin" requires fooling Cura. It's a trigonometry problem and that makes it Pythagoras' fault. I know this is hard to see but on the left is a "revolved" shape with 2.4mm thick walls. On the right is the profile that was revolved. The Wall Count is 3 which will be 1.2mm at a 0.4 line width. The magenta lines represent slices through the model. A slice through the vertical wall shows that 6 extrusions will exactly build the 2.4mm wall. A slice through the upper angled area shows that "3 walls" only provides a "thickness" normal to the exterior surface of 0.31mm and so Cura adds "skin" to build the wall thickness to the 1.2 that the settings asked for. Since the slice through the wall at that magenta line is 9.27mm wide, and since and the total of 6 wall extrusions only accounts for 2.4mm of that, then the inside 6.87mm will be skin. Different geometries will give slightly different effects but Cura will always build a wall to the thickness that has been asked for in the settings and that thickness dimension will be "normal" (perpendicular) to the exterior surface. If you want it to be different then other settings need to be adjusted as Slashee advises. You need to explain to Cura that "Yes, I want 1.2mm worth of walls over there, but over here a thinner wall is OK." Different geometry. The orange lines indicate a 1.2mm thick wall normal to each surface. The 3.44 dimension will be skin so that the angled area also has a 1.2mm wall.

It should be added in Cura 5.7 when it is released. The 4 Max definition file is HERE. It might also require any supporting files (extruders, nozzles, quality, etc.). You might be able to add a Neptune 3 and then make any changes that you see in that 4 Max file (bed size, startup gcode, etc.). That might work. Maybe. Possibly.

The answer to that is easy. It was originally developed for the early UM printers but it was so prone to glitches (Windows updates, power outage, and several other problems) that it was abandoned in favor of printing over a network. The reason it is still included is that many of those early printers are still in service. There are so many hardware, software, driver, and firmware combinations out there that getting it to work with all of them just isn't possible. You will notice that none of the "members of the community" have bothered to try and fix it. Whoever did would be a hero. So far, no one has wanted any part of that black hole. Maintenance would be a nightmare. You would need one of "every printer and every computer ever made on the planet" to debug it. I print from the SD card but my computer is hooked up to the printer at all times via USB as I run the printer from an app I wrote. I can list the files on the SD, pick the file to print, tell the printer to print it, and then I can tune the print without having to ever touch the printer. If I am printing over-night I unplug the USB or disconnect from the network so Microsoft can't push an update. That always causes the computer to reboot which in turn causes the printer to re-boot and the print is scrapped.

In Windows is would be under "PORTS (COM & LPT)" . USB printing is possible on some printers, but not all printers. The advice you will get here will boil down to "Don't print over the USB".

How to pause a print is all about what the firmware wants to see. These are the pause commands I've come across here and there. M0 (Marlin) M0 (Ultimaker Griffin and firmware retract) M25 (BQ) M226 (RepRap) @pause (Repetier/Octoprint) M125 (alternate Octoprint) M2000 (Raise3D) PAUSE (Klipper) G4 Sx (dwell) Paste this snippet into a text file and save it as a *.gcode file. The printer will ignore lines that start with a semi-colon. Remove the semi-colon from the front of 1 pause command and print the file so see if it works. If it doesn't work then open the file again and add the semi-colon back in and remove the semi-colon from the next one down. Print it again. ;---------------- G28 G0 F600 Z10 M300 P250 ;M600 ;M0 ;M25 ;(BQ) ;M226 ;(RepRap) ;@pause ;(Repetier/Octoprint) ;M125 ;(alternate Octoprint) ;G4 S10 ;10 second dwell M300 P250 ;------------------------ If one of them works then the question becomes "Well, it stopped...how do I get it going again?" M0 requires just a button click on the LCD. M25 might respond to a button click or you might have to use the Pause command on the LCD and then the resume command. You may have to use "M105,M105,M105,M105" in the gcode-after-pause box to clog the printer buffer with commands that don't do anything. Some printers will seem to pause but then continue on their own. That might be because of a M109 temperature line and the printer is waiting until it's sure the temperature is OK. That can be a 10 second delay that seems like a pause, but it ain't. G4 should work and is a last resort. Once the printer sees a G4 it will "dwell" for however many seconds is in the S parameter and then it will start by itself. You can't make it longer, and you can't shorten it, so G4 is clumsy.

Reading over on Github, it appears that there were problems between Klipper and Cura. The Mesh Fixes settings "Enable Fluid Motion" (and the three child settings below it) appear to be in response to that. Have you tried tweaking those?

I don't think it exists anymore. "Minimum Wall Line Width" has a couple child settings and "Print Thin Walls" might help. If you drop the Minimum Wall Line Width too far below the nozzle size then you won't get any squish on the extrusion and print quality can suffer.

"Display Info on LCD" will be included in the next release of Cura. Adding the M118 line as: ;LAYER:0 M106 S0 M117 1/37 | ET 2h 6m M118 1/37 | ET 2h 6m Is one of the things it will do. Unzip the file and place the "DisplayInfoOnLCD.py" file into your Configuration Folder and the "scripts" sub-folder. It will be available with the other post processors. DisplayInfoOnLCD.zip

"...you have to go back to the settings and uncheck "Generate Support" and recheck the option " @Jamr I don't recall ever having to do that. I also don't recall seeing a bug report regarding that sort of behavior. Slashee asked for a project file. If you could post one someone will take a look.

There are "Plugins" that are integrated into Cura and can affect the slicing and/or what goes on in the front end. "Mesh Tools" would be an example of one of those. They are generally available in the MarketPlace and need to be installed. There are "Post Processors" that are simpler scripts that alter the gcode after slicing. They are selected from "Extensions | Post Processing | Modify Gcode" menu on an "as needed" basis. PauseAtHeight.py would be an example of one of those. I guess the question becomes; at what point in the process would you need your changes to be made?

"...wasted over 50 hours of my time and got nothing..." You learned a bit. I learned a bit. That's worth something right there. I've saved the image of that slice. It's awesome. I thought of Captain Jack Sparrow right away and started laughing.