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I agree with Slashee, unless you for some reason absolutely have to use ABS you're probably better off with other materials. Even though I managed to get good prints with ABS most of the time, the hassle just isn't worth it. Apart from the fumes it also ate the TFM couplers in my printer with the high temps, and while I most of the time had good bed adhesion with glue stick I still never trusted it fully. I use PLA for probably 90% of my projects. The only time I use something else is when I need flexible prints where I use PEBA-S or sometimes TPU, and prints that need to resist heat a bit better where I use PETG. As a last resort I'd probably try ASA, but I'm never going back to ABS unless I have to.

Yeah, I doubt you're having the same problem as me if that's the case. I don't think I'm of any more help then, but good luck finding whatever is causing your issues!

Interesting, I do believe that our printer does a Z homing at the start of each print as well, never thought about it perhaps not being consistent. I wonder if our printer ends up at the same "wrong" Z-height each time it homes before printing, and that's why following the bed leveling sequence won't work very well for me. Perhaps the way I've gotten used to level it by eye compensates for that deviation and makes it work better in the end after the bed homes again. Very interesting indeed.

I had the exact same problem on the UM2+ we have at work. I struggled with it for sooo long and it didn't matter what color, brand or even type of filament I used. PLA, PETG and ABS all did the same thing to some degree. The thing that eventually turned out to be the problem was that I adjusted the bed to be too close to the nozzle, since it was manually adjusted. When I redid the bed leveling and learned to do it by eye instead of with the provided paper you're supposed to use as a measure, it finally went away. It was almost as if when the nozzle got too close to the bed, it kind of pulled the filament up behind it when it was moving. Think like if you have a rubbery sheet and press an object against it on a flat surface while at the same time pulling the object sideways, the rubber will "rise" behind the object you're moving. Might be a confusing description, but hopefully you understand what I mean. My best guess is that a similar effect caused my problems. But since you have ABL this probably isn't the case for you. I still wanted to mention it though, in case it could help in some way.

To me it looks like you're having some issues with under extrusion. The gaps persists in the top layer of the thicker part further down as well, indicating that the printer isn't able to output enough plastic to make a solid gap-free layer. I would suggest lowering the printspeed or raising the nozzle temp, or a combination of both depending on how severe it is. Start with smaller increments and work your way from there until you hopefully see some improvements. A slight speed decrease or a few degrees higher nozzle temp can be all it takes in some cases, while in others you might have to tweak them more. It could also be related to issues with walls and infill like d12 states, but I would try tweaking "minimum line width"(lowering it) and enabling "print thin walls" first to see if that is enough to help in case it's part of the problem. Changing the model shouldn't be necessary.

It definitely looks nifty, but I'm not sure I would consider it necessary. I think it's such an easy task to oil the rods directly from the flask, so while it might be useful I don't think I would put any effort into making/buying one of those. I simply wipe the rods down with a cloth to get rid of any dust or other stuff that's not supposed to be there, and then I put a single drop of oil on every rod and just manually move the head around for a while, making sure to go along the edges as well. That usually does it and coats the entire rods with an appropriate amount of oil. I think that's easy enough as it is. I still like the idea though!

Looks like the lines of the text are simply too thin at some areas. If your line width is higher than the thickness of the letters, they won't print properly. If you haven't already, try enabling the "Print Thin Walls" feature and adjust the "Minimum Thin Wall Line Width" to see if you can get an acceptable result. Be aware that it can be hard to get good looking letters when they are that small/thin, because the printer can have a hard time printing consistently when outputting thinner lines. If that doesn't work or you've already tried it I think you might want to switch to the 0.2 nozzle, which will be able to print thinner walls more easily. Edit: I just saw that you have the "Minimum Wall Line Width" set to 0.6. You might want to lower that one quite a bit as well and try again. And while we're at it, if you don't already use it I would recommend getting the "Settings Guide" extension by Ghostkeeper. It's perfect if you want to learn more in-depth facts about what all the different settings do and how they affect your print.

It will not only work for small gaps, it's just easier with small gaps. I'm certain that you can use this method for at least medium sized parts as well if you do some tuning. And on that note there are a lot of other features that the slicer can't guarantee that they can be done other than in specific instances, so I don't see how this feature would be any different in that aspect. Spiralize mode on it's own already requires specific types of models to work well, so I'm sure that another feature like this, that you have to enable manually, won't hurt anyone.

Here's a test print I did with a better quality PETG filament. I had some pretty severe under extrusion because of a partial clog in the nozzle, but despite that it came out just fine apart from the walls, which aren't the focus here anyway. Even the first top layer it printed looks pretty decent from underneath, it connected every single line to both sides and by the time it finished the 4th layer you can't even tell that it's hollow 3 layers down. Just some under extrusion still visible, which has nothing to do with the way the model was printed. With an unclogged nozzle and a decently tuned printer you'll be able to get great results, without a doubt. Definitely not "physically impossible".

I think you can suggest it on this page: Issues · Ultimaker/Cura · GitHub If I remember correctly you can post a new issue there and choose between bug report and feature request, that's probably your best bet.

Of course it will be next to impossible to print a model with a rim like that, since the printer has to print a circle in mid-air. But that's completely irrelevant to his request. He wants to print completely closed off top layers, which means that it would only print straight lines between two points of the circular wall. And that is definitely possible if you have a fine tuned printer. If Cura would have the same settings for top layers as it does for bottom layers, so that you'd be able to define a thickness/number of top layers, you would be able to get an acceptable result on models like bottles with a narrow top. The first layer will most likely look bad, but on the 3rd/4th/5th layer it will look good. Just for fun I modeled a cylinder with 0.4mm wall thickness (1 line) and 0.8mm closed off top (4 top layers @ 0.2 layer thickness), 30mm diameter. I printed it with my UM2+ which is far from well tuned and with a PLA filament that has given me some trouble so far, and it still came out fine. Slow print speed, relatively high fan speed, tuned the temps a bit. Sure, the first top layer looks horrible. But the second one covered the whole surface pretty well, the third layer looked okay-ish and the fourth and final layer looks perfectly fine. Make it 5 layers just to be safe and you'll never notice the bad first layers. Since you won't ever see the first top layers it won't be a problem at all. And even then, the nozzle on my badly tuned printer only connected with the wall on like every 5th-6th turn on the first layer and it still came out fine. If you have a well tuned printer which manages to connect most of the lines there won't be any problems at all. I'll switch to another filament and give it another go to see if I can get even better results, and perhaps post some images later if you don't believe me.

I'd try a thinner layer of glue. It looks like you have quite a lot of glue on the buildplate, and I've noticed that when I put too much of it it won't stick as well. I just run the gluestick in a zig-zag motion over the glass and then take a pretty wet paper cloth or similar and wipe it around until I don't see any solid glue left. Then I try to wipe the paper smoothly over the entire glass so that it leaves an even layer of moisture/gluey water. When that dries it will leave a nice thin layer of glue that works much better for me. I also find that a slightly higher bed temp makes a big difference as well. It's been a while since I printed with ABS, but IIRC I used to put the bed temp at 105c. Just 5-10 degrees lower and the warping became much worse. High bed temp and as low as you can go on fan speed. And like the others recommend, a big brim can work wonders. The experimental setting "Draft Shield" in Cura could also be something worth trying.

What type of printer do you use? As gr5 already stated, some printers have the temperature set in the printer instead of in the slicer. My UM2+ works that way, I can't change any temperature settings in Cura, all of them are managed in the printer with material profiles and in the settings menu while printing.

If it's not flat and there's only one layer that's off it will not show any supports anyway, since there's not enough space for it. To put it into perspective, supports usually leave one "empty" layer between the support and the print, to prevent them from sticking together too much. If you have a one layer gap between the build plate and some areas of the print it won't be putting any supports there because that one layer gap would be left out between the support and the print anyway. It's most definitely not flat, I've downloaded it and checked as well.

From the looks of it it's simply because it's a small model, and the walls do some pretty sharp turns where it's hard for the nozzle to fill in the gaps. My best bet would be to lower line width from 0,4 to 0,35 (I usually go for 0,35 on all my prints) and perhaps lower the minimum wall line width to 0,2-0,25 and give that a go if you're on a version of Cura that has variable line width. The slice looks much better that way, so hopefully it would translate to the finished print as well. If that doesn't do the trick I would just try raising the temp a bit and perhaps play with the flow to see if that helps.