JTMD

print on a raft

Yes, that whole business of extruding off to the side before printing was annoying when I had the material station.

I'm with you on this.. I'm also an ABS guy. I think I short-circuited the process once by cycling the power on the machine.

This is one case where i really miss using Simplify3D to slice.. you could print multiple copies each with different settings. I used to use that feature to "bracket" a particular setting to home-in on the ideal value

there's no evidence of combing

ya, both are set for zero.. maybe I'll make a little test piece and play with that

Retraction is set for 6.5mm for the support material, printing temp is 225C. I was already considering increasing the retraction but 6.5 already seems like a lot. The parts I print are for practical uses and not for show so not harm to the final print, just cosmetic. Sometime is seems like the strings get in the way and tangle up in the core, leave little bits laying around the print area... just be nice to clean it up a bit. I have no clue how to post the settings. I always avoided Cura like a plague in the past but here I am with a UM and having to walk with the devil 🙂

Anyone know what I need to do to stop the dribble trails?? Ultimaker Breakaway - I see it with ABS also.

I tried this today on my current rev S5 and no bueno. used a brand new USB camera and plugged into the port on the front of the machine. http://xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx/api/v1/camera/0/stream worked on internal camera. http://xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx/api/v1/camera/1/stream did not work on anything. http://xxx:xxx:xxx:xxx:8080/?action=stream worked on internal camera. http://xxx:xxx:xxx:xxx:8081/?action=stream did not work on anything. I too, would love to have a much better viewing angle as my machine is in a detached building 150ft away from my house and hiking down there at 1 am isn't my idea of fun 🙂

50 is what I set it for, HUGE improvement.

So I now have an air manager on my S5 and have noticed a definite reduction in warping when using ABS. I put a recording temperature gauge inside the build area for the most recent run which took approx 22 hours. The build area was showing 115 F to 120 F during the day, in the mid 80s at night. Overnight has been when I've seen warping so naturally, I want to keep the build area hot. I also noticed while it was running the air manager fan was moving a lot of that sweet heated air out of the build area - cant be having that. 🙂 So this morning I set about to see how to turn the fan down (or even off). Imagine my surprise when I find that Cura has a setting for build volume temperature, and that it was set for 75F ?!? (24C for those of you that have difficulty doing math in your head) So, anyone know is build volume temp control enabled with the S5? if it isn't, I'll just try throttling down the fan.

I turned the blob off. I use a raft so pre-pumping material out isn't really necessary but have you tried just printing a skirt?

I honestly don't know. my whole career has been designing and building automated machines and 3D printers came in real handy - first for prototyping and conceptualizing, then for making actual parts as the quality of prints improved. Since the first machine I had was strictly for printing ABS, I stuck with it the rest of my career and still use it today. That first machine printed on rigid foam making a raft for the part, I started using glass plates back in the reprap days (but still always use a raft.) Glue sticks were the rage then but I discovered hair spray through a Robo3D user group and have used it since. I wont use PLA. I had an intern once that was so taken with my home brew Prodigy clone that he went out and got one of the inexpensive printers - brought into the office a bunch of his PLA prints (mostly yoda dolls and D&D stuff) after a few weeks of sun through the window most were warped. 3D printers aren't my hobby, for me it's a tool for bigger things. I don't really feel the burn to try out all the different materials, although I recently bought some stuff that's supposed to be UV tolerant, but haven't tried it yet. Right now I'm printing parts for use with my home brew material station. Very early in my career I was a pattern maker in a non-ferrous foundry working along side men that were pattern makers during the WWII days.. I loved it and would still be doing that if CNC machines had not wiped small foundries from existence. I've been using 3D prints to make patterns now..

I'm running eSun since I had good success with it in the past and my son has had good results with his UM3. Build plate is 100C got a 16 hr print running now, halfway through. so far so good. build space is showing 118F and humidity is 14% (I'm in the desert @3800 ft MSL) ambient is 98F right now and lately it's been getting down to 85 at night, which is when I've been seeing warping occur.

Way back in the mid 1980's I was working for a IV Pump manufacturer and had access to a Stratasys Prodigy 3D FFF printer. It was the first one I ever used. It used a rigid foam for a print surface and making a raft, printed in ABS and used HIPS for support material. It made prints that were AMAZING. Never jammed, prints NEVER warped. I still have prints made back them that are far superior to what my S5 makes. Years later after moving on to a different company that could not ( or would not ) justify purchasing a printer so I ventured into the home-made hobby market. Pretty much repraps and clones.. Arduino and RAMPS boards. I ended up making one essentially a reprap style and used Marlin software, glass print surface, I think I was using Hatchbox ABS. Never was happy with the result - warping was common Moving on to another medical device company - They had a monster Stratasys (model name escapes me) that printed in PC - but that company was very territorial and only certain people could use it so, I made another printer basically copying the Prodigy. Biggest differences was moving to the lifting Z axis supported with 3 large diameter lead screws driven with 3 NEMA 23 steppers, LARGE linear rails for X & Y also driven with NEMA 23s (so REALLY rigid and beefy.) but the biggest change was to surround the entire machine with rigid insulation and heating the workspace like an oven. THAT printer made prints equal to the Stratasys. Unfortunately that company was sold to an international mega conglomerate and hundreds of us hit the streets in 2016 - I have no idea what happened to that printer. I ended up working for a small company that had a Pro Bundle. It did OK, wasn't a Stratasys but was OK. So now I'm retired, moved to the high desert and am building a workshop. It'll be a year or two before I can build another Stratasys clone so, I buy an S5. ABS warps. I bought the air handler and installed it today - hopefully that will help but if it doesn't - I'll be adding insulation and an air heater. If that doesn't fix it, I'll be making another clone. 🙂 Bottom line - for ABS at least.. keep it HOT and cool it slowly when it's done. I use hairspray for adhesion and have never had a spalling glass plate problem but I've always printed a raft with non-ABS so maybe that's why..

Air Handler arrived - took 8 days to arrive. An arduous experience, but that story is for another time (suffice it to say I'll NEVER deal with a shipper again that insists on FedEx - direct signature required) Installation was easy BUT I have leftover parts that were not mentioned in the instructions. Anyone know what these are for?

I got mine on Amazon!

How about telling how to do that? I had to fool the machine into heating the core up by using the cleaning process. Also, the feeder should be disassembled to assure that the grip wheel isn't fouled with material dust.. often happens when there is a jam and that will wreak mysterious havoc until it's clean.

Nope. trying to model a space using basic dimensions makes renderings look like a minecraft world. I'll just reveng it when it arrives.

Designing a stand for my UMS5 - Air Manager is on the way, using my own Material Station design... It would be nice to add the air manager to my model

Ah! that's it thanks.

Can someone tell me what could cause Cura to make a blob right in front of of the camera even though Enable Prime Blob is unchecked?

ya, my son has a UM3 he bought used (and very well cared for) and has had no problems - I tried the eSun stuff using his experience. Looks like my problems were due to oversized filament on the support side and too much friction/not enough grip force on the #1 side... Son designed and built a mini-material station for it - including a different NFC antenna that eliminates having to run the spools in different directions and a dehumidifier. I'm shamelessly up-sizing it for my UM5 🙂

I took the #1 feed mechanism apart - found some material stuck on the grip wheel. Not a lot but cleaned it off anyway. Reassembled it and set some grip force. Didn't notice how much it was set for before I disassemble it The filament spool (white eSun ABS) is a fairly snug fit on the wacky rear mounted spool holder (going to replace that soon). I thought it was too much so I removed the filament guide on the #1 side and the spool turns much better now. Was using Matterhackers Breakaway for support, Kept getting jammed. Measured the filament diameter - 2.96mm, filament was jamming in the bowden tube. Sent them pics, they're sending me a new spool. Changed to UM breakaway for now. Ran a 5 hour print job - completed with no issues. it's now 40% into a 22 hour print - so far so good. as an aside - finally got hard-wire network connected to the printer. It's residing in a new/nearly completed 1200 sqft shop that's 100 ft down hill from the main house. Digging trench, installing subpanels, conduits, cable, gigbit POE switches, etc.. a lot of work but worth it! now I can see progress using the internal camera without hiking down the hill (and through the hellish thunderstorms we've had lately). Im thinking about installing a different camera with a better view angle so I can see more than just the edge of the part...

UPDATE!! got the network issue solved - firewall was enabled. now, since I just now found out it had a firewall, I gotta believe that happened when I updated the firmware.... Now, back to the print core jamming issue....