JTMD

Easy for you, Difficult for me with my fat fingers, but I got it. There's actually a much better video on youtube:

Dont know why, other can see it.. hmmm anyway, I followed advice from monroe7 and used a solder iron to melt the mess little-by-little until it was gone. turns out the only thing the plastic was adhered to was the silicon membrane so it only took 15 minutes or so to clear it. Now I gotta remember how to put a new membrane in it 🙂

OK! I got the printcores out - now I'm faced with clearing out the head. any ideas? i'd like to take the "door" off but there's some wires going to it. anyone have some expert advice here?

Ya, its a Pro5 bundle. thanks for telling me about the 3 dots. I'll try it but honestly I think I'll be replacing the whole carriage...

My print failed yesterday - came unstuck from the print surface and rode around on the head. In the mean time, the filaments kept feeding and by the time I caught it, filled the head with melted filament. now its cooled and I cant even lower the front cover. is there anyway I can just heat the cores up and see if I can clean it out?

You're right, it doesnt always work, in fact, I've never been able to make that work. but here's what DOES work. turn off all the power, printer and material station both. open the feed on the station the material is in. open the material station, cut and remover the spool of the offending material. remove the clamp on the print core and put the bowden tube out. now carefully and slowly pull the material out from the bowden tube until it clears the entire material path. take the cover off the feeder to assure it;s clean. turn the powers back on and assure that the printer knows the build surface has been cleared.. you may have to select "change material" so the printer will be ready to reload. and at that point you can reload the material I agree, the firmware really needs both to allow all this easily, AND to allow purging the printcore independently so one can tell if the core is good without all the cold pull, hot pull, cleaner filmament mumbo jumbo Maybe it's too much for those netherland engineers to grasp?

In Cura, under "Material" look for: "Build Volume Temperature" Its the first parameter, you might need to change the visibility setting in preferences to see it. I set it for 50.0 C. You can set it for 0 which is supposed to not try to control the build volume temperature but I'm able to get higher temps using 50. I don't know what setting it to 0 actually accomplishes. I don't think blocking the fan is a good idea. I used to use a raft of breakaway material and hairspray on the glass (glue stick is SO neanderthal 🙂) But the plastic coated build surface works a LOT better for me without any other adhesion witchcraft. WamBam PEX coated build plate system ( fits the S5 - there are other sizes for other printers)

I print exclusively in ABS and ASA. Although Ultimakers are among the best of the consumer printers at ABS, it's still a challenge.. here's what I do: if you have an air handler or something similar, set workspace temp to 50C so the fan wont come on and cover printer with a nice thick blanket. Doing so I see workspace temps of about 140F.. it helps. I have a couple of small aux heaters that I add to get the temps up in the summer (air conditioned office). high build space temp will make the biggest difference. (Check the commercial printers, they get so hot they have a locked door while running) A wide and thick brim can help. Thick since ABS can even pull a brim up if it's too thin. I'll sometimes actually design the brim into the model so I can make it thin where it touches the part to make it easier to trim, but the rest is thick. Lately I've been printing on a plastic-coated surface - no glue or hair spray - that's helped a lot. I use the WamBam product but there are others. If you're designing the part, avoid vertical walls meeting in square corners if possible.

Nevermind, I was able to pull the filament out by powering down the machine, releasing the tension on the feeder, and just pulling it out. Brutal but effective 😁

I have an S5 Pro. Basically I don't see the big deal with the S7. it's just an S5 with the air handler built in. The camera is better, but a $25 Blink USB camera is WAY better than anything Ultimaker has to offer. compare the price of an S5 w/air handler and an S7.. see which one is cheaper.

Got some material loaded in Station E. It's through the feed motor but stopped about 5" short of the hot section. Indicator light is blue. When I try to unload it I get a message that the spool is empty.. but it's not. SO what's the recovery procedure from this? How do I get the filament out?

Mari, that worked perfectly. Thank you.

Im using the digital factory already. i can send files from both computers. thet problem arises when one cura install doesn't have the materials listed that are currently loaded in the material handler. When the file is sent to the printer, it fails since it was expecting a configuration that doesnt exist in the printer at that time. To put it simply, I need both cura installs to match, including any custom profiles and/or materials. it would seen to be a rather simple feature to provide, basically uploading whatever is in the machine to the cura install.

my S5 is in the lab, about 100 ft from my house. I have Cura on my lab's computer. - works fine. But sometimes I find myself designing a part from my house computer in the early morning hours and want to print it, but not wanting to make the trip down the hill to the lab in the middle of the night, wind, rain, etc... I have Cura on my house system and can see the S5 on my network, but get profile mismatch errors and stuff when I try to print. So what magic must I do to make both cura installations match? profiles and stuff so the printer will run from either system?

That's interesting.. I would have thought it would look at the volume used and chose the one with the least left on the spool So if it's been using A, and I take it out, then put it back in... next run it will use B? I'm making my own tags now... everything is tagged just for that color reason.