Slashee_the_Cow

Okay you posted that last one while I was still writing this so I reserve the right to finish it: Time for another Big Bulleted List™ I appreciate the thought about going slow but there's such a thing as too slow and this falls into that category. As I said, I tend to print PETG at 30-45mm/s. It's generally only TPU I have to run at a complete snail's pace. You actually have the initial layer speed set higher than the rest of the print. 😟 You're not working with shiny PLA here. PETG likes things toasty. As in, I usually print at 245° with the bed at 80° toasty. Most filament manufacturers have the recommended print settings (or at least temperature) on the side of the spool somewhere and I wish I didn't have to keep telling people to read them: Unless for some reason it didn't transfer in the project file, I would say temperature is almost certainly your problem here. To back up my speed comment from earlier, on these overhangs you're likely to have a problem running too slow because PETG doesn't really hold its shape until it fully dries: (Also whoever posted this on Thingiverse really needs to increase their circle segments) These bits Cura thinks might need support might present problems, but with the number of walls and skin layers you have they also might not: Printing it on its arse is an option that almost completely gets rid of any support issues but you'd end up in string city as it gets higher: PETG is a lot better more annoying at leaving strings than PLA, but it's not nearly as bad as TPU is, especially since cleaning up the strings is only a teeny bit harder than PLA - there's just more of them. You have build plate adhesion turned off completely - if you at least do a skirt then it's a much shorter distance from the last point where it's fixed down (end of skirt vs end of nose wipe) to your starting point (less likely to remain a giant string). Inside a small object like this, as infill it's much better to use a pattern which has lines closer together at the same density (to test, leave the infill density value the same and go through the different patterns, and look at the infill line distance setting change). This is far too small for something like Cubic to add much strength (because there's nowhere near enough room to create cubes) but who doesn't like some nice Gyroid? Close together and doesn't require many travels: This isn't the biggest bulleted list I've done. That's what we call progress 😉

Just your Friendly Assistant Mod Slashee trying to help 😕 Semantics aside, your topic is not likely to move down the main page even a single spot in an average twelve minutes on this forum. Bumps are fine (within reason) but it's not uncommon for someone to post a question and then figure out the answer inside of an hour so post a reply to their own thread either saying it's fixed (😐) or how they fixed it (😄) so I was just offering advice for how to avoid people thinking it was one of those cases.

I'm pretty sure that description makes sense. Unfortunately (unless you have one, since you don't say what you have) you can only do it a dual extruder printer (well technically you could do it with a fair amount of gcode editing and then manually changing the colour MANY times, far more hassle than sticking them together manually). It might be possible if your indent is only a couple of layers thick (basically how far the nozzle extends out of the print head) but "a couple of layers" generally isn't enough to completely obscure the colour below and it still wouldn't adhere nearly as well as if it was done on a dual extruder printer. When it comes to colour changes on a single extruder printer, the only way to go is up: you pause at a layer change and swap the filament, then the layers above will be a different colour, but you generally need 3-4 layers to completely obscure the colour below (lighter colours - and white especially - need more). You can do some pretty cool stuff if you have as much free time as me though: And if you have to resort to manual attachment, one important thing: if you're using PLA, then cyanoacrylate (plain old superglue) works INCREDIBLY well.

The problem isn't the model in the file. The 3mf file itself is corrupt. Try saving it from Cura again.

I'll second @GregValiant in saying that I get an error while trying to open the file. You gotta run the initial layer pretty damn slow (I usually have it set to 15mm/s with 50mm/s travel) but unlike TPU you don't need to run the whole thing slowly (I usually run at 45mm/s with 150mm/s travel). Your Z offset needs to be damn near perfect. PETG is some stringy #&%* to deal with, but in a different way to TPU. TPU is pretty much physically impossible to retract sufficiently so almost any travel will leave a string. PETG is stringy in that it always wants to remain a string leading to the nozzle instead of being planted down. Also turn the initial layer flow up to 105-110%. You want to make sure there's enough on the bed for it to stay on the bed. Trying to print anything too fine (layer height/line width) is a fool's game. You're not going to be extruding enough to get it to stick. Greg probably has more than me. I've just managed to have more than my fair share of them die under my watch. I refuse to accept responsibility for any of them. "SLOW THE FORK DOWN!!!!" isn't quite as important with PETG as it is with TPU. I'm not sure I've ever needed to slow down to less than 30mm/s (except for one thing which had really intricate details, which I ran at 20mm/s, but almost all of my PETG prints are more about utility than looks), but it never hurts to make sure your acceleration and jerk aren't too high. What temp is that? Sometimes for different things you need different temperatures to get the best of them. Usually I run PETG at 245° with the bed at 80°. I hope you're keeping your filament dry. I'm in Australia so I can beat you for relative humidity (hit 100% plenty of times last summer!). But that's the sort of weather where I leave my filament in the dryer (turned on) while printing - it has holes so you can feed filament out, I use some Bowden tubing to get the filament into the tent (because I don't fancy running unprotected filament through a velcro flap, plus I made a holder that goes on the top bar of the printer to hold several Bowden tubes in place and a few spool holders nearby with more tubing, helps for multicolour printing). But in that weather even if I printed yesterday I'll run it in the dryer for an hour or two before printing. Possible, but if everything else is printing fine I wouldn't think so. So umm... post a valid project file and I can have a look at it more specifically.

Printing over USB is deprecated and no longer officially supported. It's a relic from a time when printers didn't even have enough brains to read files from an SD card. Unless you have a dedicated system (like OctoPrint running on a Raspberry Pi or a basic PC) it's a bad idea anyway since if your computer crashes, boom, failed print. Also if your CPU is being stressed it could take time for it to send commands which will probably end up as blobs while your printer just sits there waiting to be told what to do.

@Jhawk6553 next time instead of posting three times inside of twelve minutes please just edit your first post 🙂 Looks so much neater and the more posts there are in a thread the more a casual passer-by will think it's been fixed and they don't need to look at it. @MariMakes doesn't handle community stuff any more so your better point of call is @Dustin. Unfortunately I can't help with your problem 😞 since I don't have a dual extruder printer.

The only things I can see that stands out at all are these: 2024-05-05 19:05:03,012 - WARNING - [MainThread] UM.Qt.QtApplication.__onQmlWarning [448]: file:///C:/Program Files/UltiMaker Cura 5.7.0/share/cura/resources/qml/PrintSetupSelector/Recommended/RecommendedSupportSelector.qml:95:17: Unable to assign [undefined] to int 2024-05-05 19:06:33,428 - WARNING - [MainThread] UM.Qt.QtApplication.__onQmlWarning [448]: file:///C:/Program Files/UltiMaker Cura 5.7.0/share/cura/resources/qml/PrintSetupSelector/ProfileWarningReset.qml:77: TypeError: Cannot read property 'name' of null Looks like it's trying to load a quality profile but can't find it. The rest of it, warning-wise, is just Qt's usual complaints that shouldn't affect functionality. Windows. It only takes about three seconds looking at the log to see filenames in that format 😄 Ironically running the AppImage on Linux as root tends to break things rather than fix them.

Unfortunately this isn't much to go on. If you could post your Cura project (.3mf, in Cura go to File > Save Project) as well as gcode files generated by 5.6 and 5.7.1 so we can see if there are any important differences. (If you uninstalled 5.6, you can have multiple versions installed side by side with no problems at all, so you can have both 5.6 and 5.7.1 on there. I have about 5 different versions installed to try and help people who don't want to update 😠) Nitpicking (I swear it comes from good intentions 🙂, feel free to ignore my ranting): fragmentation (the kind that's bad) doesn't occur in flash memory (SD cards, SSDs, etc.). Hard drives are like a vinyl record... except magnetic and on a much smaller scale: there's a spinning platter (multiple in most hard drives, besides the point) and a head that reads, and in the case of a hard drive, writes. If a song on your record is split up so you have to move the arm and needle mid-song, then that adds the time it takes to how long to listen to the song. If it's in three different places there's even more time spent moving the needle and arm. Now imagine you have a one gigabyte file on your hard drive, and is split up so each ten megabyte section is in a different place on the platter. Instead of just being able to move the head to one place and keep going, it has to read a little bit (won't even get up to its maximum read speed) then move the head, repeat 100 times. When defragmented, files will take up contiguous sectors on the platter, so it can just move the head there and read straight to the end, reaching their maximum speed (because of the time it takes the drive to get to spinning at full speed, a short read won't do it). */me tries to think of a similar analogy for flash memory* Not sure I can come up with one. But flash memory has no moving parts. It takes no time to move from one sector to another, it can call any sector up at will with no delay, even if it's on a different chip (large SSDs tend to have multiple chips of memory). So when it starts and has to move to another part, the move is instant, so it doesn't matter that it's there. Flash memory actually deliberately splits up files. Each memory cell can only have its state changed a finite number of times, so you'll eventually get to the point where you can't change the value in a cell, i.e. you can't overwrite a file stored in that sector - don't worry, to actually reach this point with good quality memory you either need to be a very heavy user or deliberately do it by constantly writing random values to each part of the memory (which is is also actually the second most secure way to delete files, behind only "stick it up on a pole so it gets struck by lightning", maybe third behind "fire"). When writing new data, it will write it to the sectors which have been written to the fewest times, and it doesn't matter if those sectors are in order. It's called wear levelling, so you don't end up with storage where half of it has been written so many times it's permanently fixed but half works fine.

Désolé pour la traduction Google. Il existe un forum français sur lequel vous pouvez poster et, espérons-le, ils parlent votre langue. Cura a des problèmes bien connus pour travailler avec plusieurs moniteurs. Malheureusement, il n’existe pas de solution universelle. Pour certaines personnes, il est utile d'ouvrir les paramètres Cura et de désactiver "Restaurer la position de la fenêtre au démarrage".

That will only work if your bed clips are exclusively on the rear and right sides. It will still treat 0, 0 as the bottom left corner and if there are clips there it's going to hit them. Fortunately, if this is the case, this is where gcode can come in handy. In your startup gcode, after the G28 (home) insert this: G0 X20 Y20 ; please replace the 20mm example there with how much space the clips do take up G92 X0 Y0 ; make it treat this position as 0,0

Disallowed areas have to be specified in the machine's definition file, in the overrides section - not in gcode. Here's an example (taken from the Ender-3/Ender-3 V2 definition if you want to add that to see what it looks like in action) "machine_disallowed_areas": { "default_value": [ [ [-117.5, 117.5], [-117.5, 108], [117.5, 108], [117.5, 117.5] ], [ [-117.5, -108], [-117.5, -117.5], [117.5, -117.5], [117.5, -108] ] ] }

Closest thing I can think of in Cura: use the Concentric pattern and turn on Connect Top/Bottom Polygons: At least it all gets printed as one continuous line 🙂

Open an instance of.. I can't remember what Cinnamon's file manager is called, and I should, because I forced my mum to use LMDE after Windows XP EoL... go to your home directory and turn on View > Show Hidden Files. By default on Unix-like systems anything that starts with a . is hidden, that should show the .local folder.

Not knowing anything about Anycubic printers, is it similar enough to the Kobra 2 that you could just use the profile for that? All I had to do for my Ender-3 V2 Neo was to take the profile for the Ender-3/Ender-3 V2 and add ABL to the startup gcode. If the build volume is different you can easily change that in the Machine Settings in Cura. Standard disclaimer: It is not UltiMaker's responsibility to add profiles for third party printers. They have to be provided either by the manufacturer or the community.

You can submit a bug report about the failure to send but unfortunately if you can't recreate it reliably there's only so much they can do. You should include the part about the close button in the dialog box, that part they may be able to help with - it's possible it wasn't removed intentionally, but when Cura moved to a different version of its UI toolkit, for example.

This is a printer issue, not a Cura issue. UltiMaker do not offer support for printers from any other manufacturers and here on the forums while we might help you out if you ask nicely 🙂 I don't think you're going to have much luck necroing a thread over two years old. Actually, while I'm here, I'll move this to the third party products board.

@cmustang It'd really help if you set your language to English before you take screenshots like this. I can only read half of it because I know what to look for. Have you tried using the latest version of Cura? You may also need to set Windows to make it uses the graphics card for Cura. In Windows 11 you get there by opening settings then going to Display then Graphics. That'll bring up a list of programs which will probably not be everything installed on your computer. If Cura isn't in the list click Browse above the list and add the Cura executable. Once you have Cura in the list, click it and, click Options and there'll be an option to let Windows decide, or to use the power saving (integrated graphics) or high performance (graphics card). Select high performance and click Save

The normal procedure for using the printer is that you slice your model, put the gcode file on an SD card on your computer, then insert the card into the printer and start from the printer's control panel. You can't update the firmware over USB, you need to put the files on a memory card. There should be instructions included with the firmware files. There should also be acceptably translated English instructions after the Chinese ones. As for whether you need to update, especially with Creality firmware, the general rule is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". So unless you experience problems you probably don't need to update the firmware. I can't speak for the S1 Pro, but it looks pretty similar to the E3V2Neo and E3V3SE so the update process might be equally similar. Here's how you do it for the ones I know: You need to format a microSD card (4-16GB, if it came with one that should work) as FAT32 with a sector size of 4096 bytes Copy the firmware file for the screen to the card Insert it into the screen, turn the printer on, wait for it to update (it'll show you on the screen), then turn the printer off Connect the SD card to your computer again, delete the screen firmware file from it and copy the printer firmware file to it Insert the card into the printer, turn it on, it should show it's updating then start normally You can leave the printer firmware file on the card if you want, but probably better if you delete it Of course, this wouldn't be Creality if there weren't some things to bear in mind. This is the part where you should stop reading because you shouldn't worry about it, but I write for my own amusement and hopefully that of other experienced users on the forums. I don't know what happens if you try using a sector size other than 4096 bytes, but any cards more than 16GB can't be formatted with sectors that small. If you need to buy a memory card, and you don't have a stash of them like me from various gadgets, unless you want to order one direct from China it'll probably cost you the same as a 64GB card. I haven't tried using a bigger card but creating a single 16GB partition, but that's a bit beyond the average user (no offence). Both the E3V2Neo and E3V3SE come with a memory card and a USB card reader. I've been through one E3V2Neo and three E3V3SE's and the longest any of the included cards has worked was 3 weeks. The median is two weeks. The card readers tend to not even last that long. If you don't have other cards or card readers, use the ones that came with it. If/when they fail it's not a catastrophic failure, you'll just get errors copying files over, or the printer and computer won't realise a card is connected, or something like that. When the instructions for the E3V2Neo say to insert the memory card into the back of the screen, they mean it literally. You need to unscrew the back cover and there's a microSD slot on the back of the motherboard. On the E3V3SE there's a slot in the side of the screen unit. The E3V2Neo uses microSD cards for its primary storage. The E3V3SE uses a full size SD card, but you still need a microSD card to update the screen. Luckily I found an 8GB microSD card laying around and about a million micro-full size adapters so I just use that. The printer will consider any firmware file which has a different filename to the previous one it installed an upgrade. Actually great for recovery if the update process %#(^s up somehow. Also good for downgrading if an "update" turns to be more of a "downdate". The screen is actually smarter than the printer in this regard, it will only update to newer versions.

Printing over USB is deprecated and no longer supported. It's a remnant from the days when printers had absolutely no brains of their own and had to be told what to do one thing at a time. It's also a bad idea in general. If your computer crashes or something, then boom, there goes your print. You should save gcode files to a memory card/USB drive/whatever your printer uses and run it from the printer itself.

You can submit a feature request if you'd like to see this behaviour changed. The devs don't spend much time on the forums so submitting it on GitHub is the best way to reach them.

Is it saving its configuration file? It should be in ~/.local/share/cura/5.6 called cura.cfg

Make sure your parts aren't so big or tiny that Cura automatically scales them (or just turn the auto scaling off in the settings). If you could share an example of a file which has this issue then we can have a look and see if there's anything to be figured out.

+1 to my untrusted sources list. I actually tend to get an underextruded Z seam, which is why the Outer Wall Wipe Distance option exists. The printer doesn't wait before it moves up a layer - it just moves up. My Ender-3 V3 SE has a max Z feedrate of 10mm/s. Now, I'll admit I can't do all the maths regarding acceleration and such, but at 10mm/s, moving up a 0.2mm layer takes... less time that it took me to type that "...". It'll take a bit longer if you have Retract at Layer Change turned on, but retracting and then priming 0.8mm at 40mm/s takes... yep, still less time than that "...". Now let's look at if I print multiple objects all at once: Each object has its own Z seam, every layer. Because each object has a place where it starts printing the outer wall every layer. With multiple objects like that, if the nozzle drools a bit, it'll give me stringing, but that's only because of the time it takes to move from one object to the next. Next test: That's 0.05mm layers (not that I could do that on my 0.4mm nozzle, but this is for demonstration purposes) at my printer's maximum build height. Total layers: 4995. How long will it take to print? How much longer will it take if I lower the maximum Z feedrate from 10mm/s to 1mm/s? */me breaks out calculator* Okay, so that's added... 48 milliseconds to each layer change. How much do I extrude in 48ms? Well, since I'm printing at 60mm/s... */me breaks out calculator again* It's equivalent to moving another 2.9mm... */me breaks out calculator again* Ugh, geometry was never my speciality. Pretty much lacking spatial reasoning doesn't help. But that is, if my calculations are correct, about 0.058mm³ of filament. Or adjusting the calculations to print 0.2mm layers instead of 0.05mm, still only 0.23mm³ of filament. Which is really friggin tiny. That's how much is added if I lower the Z speed of my printer by 90% and print thousands of layers. Okay, time for another theoretical experiment: what if I lower the Z acceleration from 500mm/s² to 1mm/s², while keeping the max feedrate at 1mm/s. How much does that add to the print time? A bigger difference! 204.2ms per layer! A time discrepancy you might actually notice. And rather than run all my calculations again, I can just multiply the results by 4.25 (divide this time by the previous one). That would give us a blob of 0.98mm³ of filament. That's probably a noticeable blob. But it's also a "worst case scenario" so bad that you're far better off buying a new printer than dealing with Z seam blobs on this theoretical printer.

Try going to Speed > Enable Acceleration Control and turn it on. That'll open up a bunch of new settings. Set Print Acceleration and Travel Acceleration to 500mm/s² (if the travel value doesn't appear, make sure Enable Travel Acceleration is turned on). That'll make sure the print head doesn't speed up too fast (although let me know if it's actually any slower to print because I'd be very surprised if it could manage the 3000mm/s² default).