Slashee_the_Cow

In the print settings dropdown in the top right, click Show Custom. This should transform it into the settings panel you know and love. Then there'll be the menu button in the top right with three horizontal lines which allow you to select which settings are visible.
 
You might have accidentally clicked "Recommended" at the bottom of the full settings menu, which takes you back to the basic settings.

Working backwards from an STL isn't a great choice (if you have a choice). Blender is also notorious for putting out poor quality STLs (since it's not designed for that sort of thing).
 
In Cura, you could try going to Mesh Fixes > Maximum Resolution and setting it to something low (like 0.1) to see if that helps.
 
FreeCAD can import STL files and turn them into editable objects, but without knowing what you're trying to do, I'm not sure how good it would be at it (plus it has a learning curve nearly as vertical as GIMP).

Your model is messed up.

It has no faces on the inside the curved bit, and none on the bottom of the outside. That's why Cura won't print it hollow - it doesn't think there's anything inside.
 
I don't know what program you used to make it (and I don't intend to chastise you), but just a warning: Blender isn't great at making STL files, and SketchUp's ability to do it is a running joke.
 
Although because I have nothing better to do to this morning... here's a fixed version.
Plant_Pot_Fixed.stl

There isn't actually any code in the startup sequence to heat up anything. But it's easy:
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; start heating up the hot end M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed to heat up G28 ; Home all axes G29 P1 ; run auto bed leveling routine G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for hot end to be hot before we start G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish  

Try adding this to your end G-Code (after any other G0 or G1 moves):
G90 ; Absolute positioning G0 F300 Z{machine_height}  

I think it's just evaluating Python, but it will only accept single lines (not blocks, which takes using a match statement off the table).
 
You may have to go into what programmers might all "ternary hell". Or just a big mess. Also I'm pretty sure you don't need the = sign in front of absolute values, just ones drawn programmatically. That could be confusing the Python interpreter. You also need a fallback parameter on your last ternary or it will read the "if" as a statement, not part of an operator.
 
Try:
speed_print = 130 if machine_nozzle_size == 0.4 else 60 if machine_nozzle_size  == 0.8 else 180 if machine_nozzle_size == 0.2 else 100

There's nothing in the log about crashing, which makes things a lot harder to diagnose.
 
Have you tried resetting the configuration? That persists through uninstalls. Go to %APPDATA% and there should be a folder called cura. Just rename it (in case this works so we can recover what we can) to cura_backup (or anything really) and next time Cura starts it'll create its configuration folder like new, and if that loads we can start copying stuff from the backup to the main folder so you lose as few settings as possible.

Looks completely fine to me from what I can see. It would help if you could provide a Cura project file (.3mf, get it ready to print then go to File > Save Project) because the "standard profile" isn't standard between printers, nozzle sizes, etc., plus it's extremely hard to tell based on the screenshots because I have next to no idea what angle they're at, or if you've rotated the object from its normal. It would also help you could point out some specific points on specific layers where you think there's a problem.
 
There is skin in the angled bits because Cura will produce enough for either the top/bottom thickness or top/bottom layers, depending on if either has been manually set (thickness takes precedence, because then it applies across different line widths and layer heights), to any part of the model exposed to air above/below it. It just doesn't print them on the very outside because walls take precedence over skin.

Microsoft 3D Builder says file has errors and to repair it.
It shows a gap below the TG (and seems to be stuck trying to repair the model):

 
If you could share the FreeCAD file (just put it in a zip file and you can attach it to a post) I can have a look at it... I've been spending far more time wrestling with it lately than I care to admit.

SketchUp is notorious for producing models which can be messed up in so many ways it's not funny. Even if it's what you know... you should learn something else.
 
Anyway, if you're on Windows, open the file in Microsoft's "3D Builder" app (you might have to download it from the Microsoft store if you're running Windows 11 - and amazingly it's actually really useful) and load the model and it will come up with a message at the bottom right saying it's invalidly defined and offer to fix it for you, click that then save it.

And because I'm in a good mood, I'll give you this one for free:
CFFFP_New tray11C_fixed.3mf

Not two profiles per se, but same effect:
Click on your model, then use the Support Blocker tool, click on your model, and it will add a cube. Use the move and scale tools so that your support blocker (don't worry, we're about to fix that) covers the area you want to use different settings for. Open Per Model Settings (it's the one above support blocker) and set the Mesh Type to Modify settings for overlaps Use the drop down box to change it from Infill mesh only to Cutting mesh If there's any settings in there, just click the minus button on the right to get rid of them (unless they're something you want to change). Click the Select settings button and it'll open a list of printing settings you can change. Tick the ones you want. Close the settings box and your chosen settings will be in the list, you can put values in there. For example, as a demonstration I've decided to make one end of my bovine buddy have more walls but a different infill pattern at a much lower density:

Are you chaining three ternaries in a single line? Not cool (from a programming perspective). But... are you actually evaluating Python in that string? Not cool (from a programming perspective). But if you are... can't you just use string functions to make your string upper case?
"value": "'T0 '+ extruderValue(0,'material_type').upper() if print_mode == \"singleT0\" else 'T1 ' + extruderValue(1,'material_type').upper() if print_mode == \"singleT1\"  else 'T0 ' + extruderValue(0,'material_type').upper() + ' T1 ' + extruderValue(1,'material_type').upper() if print_mode == \"dual\" else 'T0 ' + extruderValue(0,'material_type').upper() + 'T1 ' + extruderValue(0,'material_type').upper()"

I was going to say the definition looks a little sparse but I looked up the stock E3S1Pro definition and... that's pretty sparse to begin with.
 
Anyway, let's just say that editing definition files in a language you're probably completely unfamiliar with is not your forte.
 
I fixed up the machine definition file and in case the nozzles give you any trouble (it'll probably say something about not having any quality settings and you also won't be able to select a nozzle size) I also made some of those. Checked it on my computer to make sure it works. Remember the nozzle files (the .inst.cfg ones) go in the variants\creality\ subfolder of your configuration folder.
creality_ender3s1pro_corexy.def.json.zip

Don't focus on speed. Haste makes waste, in this case literally, with failed prints. Red means "you can't do this", like print beyond the maximum speed a printer can, or print layers thinner than your nozzle can handle, stuff like that. I think in most cases it will refuse to slice if a setting is showing up as red. Yellow means "you can do this, but you shouldn't" - it might be able to pull it off on paper (like print very thin lines without using a small nozzle) but there's no promise it'll work out well in the resulting print. You should only print with settings at yellow if you know what you're doing. The print temperature setting needs to remain the same - whatever is appropriate for your material. It's the hardware that makes the difference here - your printer will manage its hot end to take into account the flow rate, but too fast and it just won't be able to heat up the filament in the time it takes it to get through it. Setting the temperature any higher wouldn't help because you're already hitting the printer's limit, and any slower areas will cook your filament. You should print as fast as your material is designed for. Any faster and you'll get substandard results. For example TPU tends to need to print very slowly (I think mine recommends 20-40mm/s) because it's very rubbery and needs to properly set, or else the print head will pull on it and move it out of position, resulting in underextrusion and filament going everywhere around the plate. Higher speeds are less accurate, even if your material and printer can handle the speed. Think of driving a car - even if your Ferrari can drive at 260km/h (in a closed environment, not on public roads, of course) you're going to have a lot less control than if you're driving at 80. When you get to a curve you're going to have to slam on the brakes (resulting a blob of filament where you brake) to be able to make it around safely, whereas the slower driver can just keep cruising at an even speed and laying down a much neater track of filament behind it than your Ferarri. My printer can go up to 250mm/s (which requires special high speed PLA), but I rarely take it beyond 100 for this reason. Acceleration won't affect the print time much unless it's particularly low to begin with - it's just how quickly it goes up from a slow speed (like doing a corner) to max speed (like if there's a long straight bit just past the corner, or a long travel move). Too high and it'll have a similar effect to moving too fast in general - you'll tug at the filament and pull it out of position. Literally, I've had prints that were warped in spots because of how quickly it was accelerating away from some parts, when the rest of the print was fine. No.

Okay still not sure I can 100% why - maybe it's trying too hard to follow lines that are a bit bigger than it is? - but increase Mesh Fixes > Maximum Deviation for extruder 2. Not sure if I have to emphasise that, don't deal with problems where changing a setting for a single extruder is the fix that much. Anyway, my testing shows 0.06 is about the minimum to fix it.

Works fine for me in 5.6:

Bottom: normal model
 

Bottom right: cutting mesh with custom infill line directions set.
 

Top: model with custom infill line directions set.
 
If you could upload your Cura project file (.3mf) it would help us investigate any problems that might be causing this.

I'm not sure about the configuration (probably requires someone more daring or smarter than me to get the configuration file from the motherboard) for the E3V3SE but the default in Marlin is that it won't extrude below 170° if PREVENT_COLD_EXTRUSION is enabled.
 
You can override it for a print in gcode if you want, but... you probably shouldn't. Lowest I've ever printed was 180° and that was for some dodgy PLA.

Go to the Cura configuration folder (in Cura, go to Help > Show Configuration Folder) and open cura.cfg in a text editor (on Windows I'm quite a fan of Notepad++, but regular notepad or whatever should do). Close Cura, it'll probably have a lock on the file that stops you editing it.
 
There will be two very long lines, one near the top in the [general] section that starts with visible_settings = and one further down in the [cura] section starting with custom_visible_settings = - those contain the settings that you can see.
 
Search the file for hole_xy and in my case I get four results: there's a hole_xy_offset and hole_xy_offset_max_diameter in each of those two long lines. If you don't have both of those in both of the settings lines, add them manually, at the end just put a semicolon then whatever setting is missing (like ;hole_xy_offset_max_diameter) - it's not too hard to figure out the format once you see what's already there.
 
If both of those settings are already in both of those lines... then this idea is a bust. If you had to add any, restart Cura, set a hole horizontal expansion and hopefully the max diameter setting will show up. If it doesn't, then the idea wasn't a bust, just the result 🙂.

I couldn't find any information about the printer (the link is a 404) but looking up the motherboard it does support Marlin as well as its own language.
 
So that's a "no, you don't have to change it, Marlin works"

This is build plate adhesion, support is the stuff that gets built up so that parts of your model that extend outside its original footprint (or vertical gaps) doesn't just fall straight down.
 
A skirt is there to make sure the material gets flowing correctly and gets any dust or crap off the nozzle in a throwaway bit instead of the start of your model.
 
Brim greatly helps adhesion, because the plastic adheres far better to itself than the plate, so in order to dislodge it in anyway not only do you have to its so-so grip on the build plate, but also each line of the brim's grip on the build plate, because the whole thing will only come off as one (to a point anyway, too much brim is just wasted material, but even ten lines can be useful).
 
Rafts aren't designed for big objects (it's a massive waste of filament), the idea you're supposed to keep the build plate clean so if something causes a "bubble" it's part of the extrusion process, not something on the print bed (and also why you have multiple layers of skin, so it evens out in the end.
You are correct in that they can be used if the base of an object is very small, because then even a brim might not be enough to hold it, and as I said about brims, the material grips far better to itself than the build plate.
They're not used anywhere near as much as they used to be though because printers and software have gotten a lot better over the years and adhering to the build plate is a lot better than it used to be. They're also a lot more hassle to remove than a brim and more likely to leave scars where the object was being held up.
 
As for your questions:
a) As explained earlier, it's to make sure the material is flowing correctly and getting crap out if its system. It's also a great time to hit the stop button if for some reason the skirt isn't adhering.
b) Not in an AppImage. I think it's possible (never tried) in a Windows/Mac installation because you can actually edit the files the program installs (which include the quality profiles), but the way an AppImage is packed, you can't. You could just create a custom profile where the adhesion method is whatever you want it to be by default and the rest will just carry over from the profile you based it on, Cura should load with the last used profile automatically set.

It's a bit of a hassle, but Cura profile files are plain text files. You can open up a .curaprofile in a text editor and then just read the settings from the file and input them manually into a new profile.

Every time you save a file, you choose the filename. It will never automatically overwrite a previous version, you have to pick the filename every time you save a project or g-code.

Were you printing through Cura (which really only exists for legacy reasons) or using an SD card or a system like OctoPrint? If it's not the first, it's not really Cura's fault, and if it is the first, you should probably try the second, if available.
 
Still if you could please post the .3mf file for your project (in Cura go to File > Save Project) and the generated gcode we can have a look and see if there's anything that stands out as wrong.

There's also the (slow) method of just opening Windows Explorer, navigating to your C:\ drive and searching for cura.log. Although for that to work you might have to make sure all files are visible - not sure if the process is the same in Windows 11 (I avoid touching Windows 11 with a ten foot pole - no pun intended - where possible) but in 10 it's in File > Change folder and search options, open the View tab, under Hidden files and folders make sure Show hidden files, folders and drives is selected, and a bit further down uncheck the box for Hide protected operating system files (Recommended). Don't worry about the last one sounding nasty, Windows protects most of its important files anyway and you're only going to see them if you go poking around for them.
 
Also, with the option to show hidden files and system files on, you can try getting to the Cura config folder at C:\Users\<your username here>\AppData\Roaming\cura\5.4\

0 is the first layer. There is no -1 because it leaves an air gap between the raft and your model so that you can easily remove the raft.
 
Yeah, I %$&^ing hate the single body rule. You can extrude a sketch from the Part workbench, then go to the Draft workbench, downgrade your body (in my case it downgraded into a bunch of faces) and maybe the extruded sketch you just made (you'd have to try it), go back to Part workbench, select all the things, and create a union of them.
 
Or you could just extrude your other sketch using the Part workbench and export the body and that part separately then just bring them both into Cura.
 
Also, unless it only takes up like, a single layer, removing an object from the g-code is incredibly hard, especially if it's been combined with other parts in the slicing process.