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jasonatepaint

Aluminum Extrusion (2020) UM2 Printer

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Over the last few of months (time flies when you're waiting on parts sent via China Post), I built a UM2 clone using Misumi aluminum extrusions. It started as a project to teach myself AutoDesk Fusion 360 but it's turned out to be a great printer.

I imported the UM source solidworks files in A360, dropped the walls (frame), and added extrusions and support parts so that all original UM2 hardware is supported. The entire guts is 100% UM2 with all hardware untouched as far as position/size. I used the UM2 assembly manual to build the gantry and to get other wiring clues.

I've published it to YouMagine with pretty decent instructions and a BOM. If you have questions, just let me know.

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main_photo.thumb.jpg.91c2389a6b04c65ec7c0a663dd8a24dd.jpg

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Looks great indeed!

How did you align the aluminum extrusions? I've put together a similar frame myself, but had a lot of trouble getting "almost" perfect 90° angles everywhere...

Is the frame rigid? The pieces you used to hold the extrusions together seem very small (side-note: I like my overkill-tank-like-stainless-steel-constructions).

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THIS IS AMAZING! In fact, it's more than amazing. It looks great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks! All the printed parts were printed from my UM2... I gotta imagine that had something to do with it. ;)

 

Super ;)

The price ? Without hours of works :)

Well the BOM's price, not including screws, printed parts, or shipping of parts, is $896 USD. You figure about $1k USD and you'd be able to build yourself an UM2.

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Awesome, I love it!

I have replaced nearly every single component on my UMO already, and have been scowling at the frame lately :)

I'm also curious about how all the alignment and squaring was, if you could comment.

Well, I used Misumi extrusions (link in the BOM), which are custom cut to your custom requirements, so all the extrusions will be fitted at their end points. Additionally, the 3D printed parts (frame brackets and gantry brackets) help square the corners. A bracket is fitted on the top/bottom and all 4 sides of the frame.

I built the frame in 2 pieces and married them together. The instructions show this process. Since all the X/Y-axis extrusions fit together at the end of all Z-axis extrusions, the process of squaring things up is just a matter of using the brackets to hold the pieces together. The gantry brackets further enforce the frame is squared up for the gantry.

After the frame is all bolted together, the rest of the assembly is practically the same as the UM2. It was insanely easy and it was dead-on accurate right out of the gate. The only thing I needed to spend time on was getting the steps right for the extruder. I was using a 1.8 degree steps and running 1.75mm filament, so I printed a calibration piece on the UM2 and dialed on the new printer until they looked the same.

At this point, I can swap the SD card from machine to machine and get identical results.

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Hey racerbo,

I think I chatted with your via thingiverse comments. Here was my comment:

Oh YEAH! THAT was the other thing that I meant (but forgot) to fix before sending out the model/STLs... when I was ordering parts for the machine, I had a lot of long 8mm rods (which came from my disassembled Rostock delta printer). I cut those to size instead of buying pre-cut rods. So instead of buying the rod kits from China, I ended up buying 12mm 13" long (330.2 mm) rods from VXB.com, in the US. And then I altered the design.

I have uploaded the top/bottom gantry brackets with the 8mm difference fixed. The parts are called Gantry_Z-Axis_Top_339mm.stl and Gantry_Z-Axis_Bottom_339mm.stl

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I've built my own frame using alu extrusions from Misumi, and wanted to share an experience:

You can have Misumi add some options to the profiles that makes joining them accurately and very strong (!) super easy.

Of course you pay considerably more for the extrusions (just about double), but the result is well worth it in my opinion.

A combination of "Tapped Holes on End Faces" (LTP or RTP for one end, TPW for both ends) and "Wrench Hole Machining" (lots of different options available) will allow you to bolt the extrusions together using nothing but an M5 screw (2020, or M8 for 3030 extrusions).

The screw's head goes into the slot of an extrusion, and screws into the other one's end face. The wrench hole is needed for the wrench to go through the extrusion and tighten the screw. This gives awesomely rigid 90° joints without any brackets!

You just need to be careful to align the extrusions well when tightening them.

I've used 3030 extrusions which go with M8 screws and 24mm long threads. I tightened these screws ridiculously and I'm confident these joints will last forever. :D

But even with the smaller 2020 and M5 screws you should still get very strong joints.

/note:

You can make all these modifications yourself if you don't wanna pay Misumi to do it for you. The "Tapped Holes on End Faces" use the already existing center hole - just need to tap the holes.

The wrench holes don't need to be perfectly centered - you just need to get the wrench through there. Alignment is still possible even when these holes are about 1mm off.

/edit:

I strongly suggest using hex or torx (star) screws. You wanna be able to tighten them down really hard... :)

Edited by Guest
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The alu extrusions came in at 132 EUR. But my frame is considerably bigger than an UMO and has more pieces (16 extrusions).

Note that I used 3030 extrusions. The 2020s are cheaper, but the modifications probably cost the same for both types (Around 1 EUR per mod, with up to 5 mods on some of my extrusions).

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/Btw: I don't wanna hijack this thread. Yes, this printer is quite different from an UM2. I will reveal the details about it in time - for now the build is far from finished and will take some more time to produce anything. I will open a new thread once there's something interesting to tell ;)

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Edited by Guest
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Hello, indeed great JOB !

I have made one with little change + direct drive and the final price for the all thing is 520,47 € with little extra nuts, screw polley etc... it take 788g of ABS to build ( 17.10€ for me ) but without E3D V6 ( 57€ ) so you can build it for a total cost of 595 €.

I toke me 2 month to get all components, and only 2 days to build, their is still improvment to do but can work as it is.

20160124_194522.thumb.jpg.a4d3b081064a5843868683303f09e4d5.jpg

20160124_194522.thumb.jpg.a4d3b081064a5843868683303f09e4d5.jpg

Edited by Guest
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Hello, indeed great JOB !

I have made one with little change + direct drive and the final price for the all thing is 520,47 € with little extra nuts, screw polley etc... it take 788g of ABS to build ( 17.10€ for me ) but without E3D V6 ( 57€ ) so you can build it for a total cost of 595 €.

I toke me 2 month to get all components, and only 2 days to build, their is still improvment to do but can work as it is.

20160124_194522.thumb.jpg.a4d3b081064a5843868683303f09e4d5.jpg

 

IT LOOKS AMAZING!!!!

Could you share some more pictures? Very neat design. You've used the Ultimaker board, screen and heated bed, right? Did you have any problem with the extruder not being fully compatible with the board?

And also, share some pictures of your prints so we see what results you got!

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IT LOOKS AMAZING!!!!

Could you share some more pictures? Very neat design. You've used the Ultimaker board, screen and heated bed, right? Did you have any problem with the extruder not being fully compatible with the board?

And also, share some pictures of your prints so we see what results you got!

 

Thanks, but it is not yet finish :Dand the look can be improve with floor doors and back, a perfect enclosure for temperature controll, so ABS can be print like a charm.

I am actually performing more basic adjustment, like redesign some part for better durability, after few hours of print I have some issue with the Gantry X Axis Front Right.

I am indeed use almost only chinese parts (bearing, electronic, heated bed, temp probe etc.) and I have no issue at all with E3D extruder, or anything else.

You need the PT100 probe with Heater Block for the extruder (I use original E3D as well than chinese 3 time less expensive)

The only thing I realize is that the UM2 electronic board isnt compatible with other temperature probe than PT100, I try 3 other type without success (may be more investigation are need).

For the aluminium plate (under heated bed) I milled it so let say that you need 55€ more (or 30€ from me :D) than the actual price I gave you. More improvement are need to reach 90mm/s because the aluminium plate is vibrating at that speed. so with the (my) actual design let say max speed is 50mm/s with direct drive.

Direct drive dont look a problem at moment, and it is not that heavy, but need more adsjustment, I redraw an existing design from scratch and adapt it for 3mm filament, with MK7 drive gear.

More pics if you want but sooner

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