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Posted (edited) · Usefull links

Hello all,

This subject contains many very usefull links for new users or more advanced users.

Feel free to answer with more usefull links, this topic is meant to be populated by the community.

Most of the links are about the Ultimaker 2 (and family).


Unboxing and first start


Unboxing the Ultimaker 2+



Inside the Ultimaker 2+



Unboxing the Ultimaker 3



Inside the Ultimaker 3



Ultimaker 3, using PVA



Visual troubleshooting guide

English version

French version


Ultimaker provided tips & tricks

Wide range of tips and tricks




Unclog the nozzle

The Atomic method


Basic maintenance

Replacing the PTFE coupler


Dismantle and re-assemble the head of the Ultimaker 2+


Re-assemble the head of the Ultimaker 2+


Test the head temperature



Some examples of post-processing yout prints

Link to forum topic


Installation of the Olsson Block on your Ultimaker 2

To swap your nozzles easily! (compatible Extended and Go)

Install the Olsson Block on the Ultimaker 2



Change the feeder of the Ultimaker 2

Install community designed alternative feeder




Online manual

Online manual


Manuals and BOM

Build manual

Source files Ultimaker Original+

Source files for Ultimaker 2Go

Source files for the Ultimaker2

BOM Ultimaker 2+

BOM Ultimaker 2 Extended+

Source files for Cura

How to install VPN for your Ultimaker 3. User generated.

FAQ and Lessonplans for Educators





Official versions

Old versions

Beta version below official release (use at your own risk)


Cura Tips and Tricks



TinkerGnome Modified version to display more information during a print (UM2, GO and Extended)

Forum subject



Powerfull slicer, lot's of parameter (price: 130€)

Simplify 3D Tutorial



Keep It Simple Slicer





Repetier Host

Pilot the printer via USB, visualise the gcode.



Like Repetier Host



Manage your printer from distance with a web application

Tutorial to install it on a Raspberry Pi



WebSite to visualise gcode


3D Design Softwares (Free)

Autodesk Fusion 360: Very powerfull, lots of features (Free for students, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and startups)

DesignSpark Mechanical: Good software for mechanical parts, quite complete. (Free version of SpaceClaim)

123D Design: Nice app simple to use with some interesting features (for example: text extrusion)

123D Catch scan objects with your camera

Sketchup: Simple to use with a lot of plugins

Plugin to check that the model is waterproof

Blender: Complex software with a lot of possibilities, more suited to organic design

MeshMixer: Sculpt STL files, cut, join, etc... mainly used for STL manipulation

MeshMixer Tutorial

OpenScad: Design in a programming language (usefull for parametric designs)

TinkerCad: Easy to use

Sculptris: Sculpting software

MeshLab: Work on mesh files (very complex but powerfull)

NetFabb Basic: Prepare and repare STL files for 3D printing

Onshape: CAD system with version control and collaboration built in at its core.



List of usefull software

There are probably other free design softwares feel free to add them below


Paid softwares:

Cheetah3d: paid but acceptable price (69$)

Other softwares


  • Solidworks
  • AutoCad
  • 3dsMax
  • Cinema4D
  • SpaceClaim
  • Inventor


Very expensive but worth mentionning!

For students there are some very low cost licenses available!

3D Design librairies:

Youmagine:Website managed by Ultimaker, a lot of usefull designs, i encourage all of you to post your designs here!

Thingiverse: The most popular website, with tons of designs (some good and some totally worthless)

MyMiniFactory: Free and paid objects. Good thing about this website is that when you upload something they print it to see if it's worth adding to their content

GrabCad: Lots of 3d designs (Not all for 3d printing)


3DHubs: Service to print for others

Colorfabb tutorials

Designing for 3d printing

Feel free to add any usefull link you have or to give any feedback. I will add them to this post.

Material providers list[/b]

Edited by SandervG
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Posted · Usefull links

I still think that you need to get the shape of the inside of the nozzle to get a proper clean, the method shown above does not show a good atomic pull in my opinion, and will leave people thinking that they've cleaned their printer when really they haven't. you cant analyse the dirt buildup in the nozzle following the guide above.

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Posted · Usefull links

Yeah that atomic video is bad... to add something. .. the head is not fully parked in the corner so you'll have more risk to make 'banana' rods...

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Posted · Usefull links

You think it should be replaced with our video?

The printhead is not parked in the corner, but besides that I think it demonstrates it very well.

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Posted · Usefull links

think you should remove this and replace by "keep the head in the corner"


Manually move the print head towards to front of the Ultimaker 2 for easier access during the next steps.

Also think 260 is a bit high for PLA... I usually use 230 and this works for me ..

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Posted · Usefull links

But depending on your print habits you also want to remove ABS from the nozzle, and then 260º is good.

If your nozzle is already carbonized/clogged, there is no harm in 260ºC?

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Posted · Usefull links

The temps are not so much of an issue in my opinion as long as you dont leave it too long at 260 with pla, but in my experience you dont need to go all the way to peak temps to clean the nozzle as the pla will stick to the ABS and pull it out with it, but im not 100% on that as ive not used ABS for a long time. 220-230 works totally fine with PLA. The only danger for me when the temps gets too hot is hydraulic pressure which lets filament slip between the PTFE coupler easier at high temps if you push the filament in too fast or hard which can be easy to do when you forget about it. then your nozzle becomes jammed again.

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Posted · Usefull links


Onshape is an excellent web-based 3D CAD program. It's powerful and easy to use, and many tutorials are provided on their site. Free and paid accounts are available. I think the only limitations to free accounts are 10 private documents and 100 MB private storage.

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Posted · Usefull links

Nozzle changing is not easy and will probably damage the CORE.  Ultimaker uses a very high torque during manufacturing. These things a basically not meant to be taken apart again.... Ofc you can try anything, but be aware a leaking CORE creates a difficult to clean/repair printer head...


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Posted · Usefull links

Be careful this is a video about the 3DSolex hardcore which was designed to change the nozzle and not the UM print cores.

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