Did you notice that the hex has been machined off the nozzle so its completely round. This way the ring has better heat transfer. If you leave the hex on the nozzle the ring will only touch in a few small spots. only way to get around this is to use a old nozzle to panel beat the ring to match
The only problem I see with attaching something on the outside of the nozzle is XT-CF20 tends to stick and build up on the nozzle as its printing. If something else is attached it could make an even bigger mess.
Recently I used to PETG/CF from Nanovia, it doesn't stick to the nozzle and it's a very good filament.
- 2
Looks very nice. I should give that a try.
That filament looks really nice @rigs
Ooooh that carbon-fiber weave too
Well Printed Solid is running a special, same as E3D is (i asked lol)
https://printedsolid.com/products/colorfabb-xt-cf20-e3d-hardened-nozzle-bundle
I ordered mine a few minutes ago....looking forward to trying it out on the UMO !
Hi Labern, what was the heater wattage, how long did you allow for the temperature to settle and what were you using to measure the temperatures?
Any chance to run the tests with the fan at full to see if the nozzle can keep up?
Edited by GuestIt is using a 25w heater, Not that the wattage matters as its not under load and its controlled by the PT100. My PT100 must be reading a bit off but its consistently off and the results still show the inconsistencies between the different material types. I even retested the different nozzles and came up with the same readings. The results are showing the thermal properties between the different material types.
I left it for about 5mins. I waited for any fluctuations to stop and for it to settle at a consistent temp. The temp was measured with an external k type temp probe which i made sure was sitting at the end of the nozzle every time.
The stainless had by far the slowest reaction time to any temp changes.
I will test with the fans on full as soon as my 35w heater arrives as it is now the standard wattage. I will also do another check with out fans to see if any effect has taken place.
Good results, I admit I run with the 35W heater, but it's good to see the differences. It would be interesting to measure the current. I would have thought that after 5 minutes they would have reached a stable temperature, so I wonder if there is a constant current or a fluctuation. Also to have a second point reading of the main body to see if the body temperature is the same at each point and the variation is just in the nozzle.
Thanks for sharing. Very interesting. I knew from experience about the difference between steel and brass but it's really big....
i can measure current also next time.
Will get a second probe to measure externally.
The body temp is measured and kept stable by the PT100
When UM release the kit it would be good to use the new more accurate PT100
Can see why E3D moved to the hardened steel as it has a lot better thermal properties then the stainless. but I will try carbon fiber with the Olsson Special soon to see how it goes as its better still.
Neotko made a good point about the heat required for the XT-CF20 being high enough to damage the PEEK in the UMO.
I am wondering if this filament isn't safe for the UMO to try to use?
All the searches I have done online have shown UM2's using it. Not UMO.
Recommended Posts
LePaul 328
Here's what he did (thank goodness for subtitles)
You're right, location is essential but so long as you don't go too low, it could work
Link to post
Share on other sites