Jump to content
UltiMaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Warping prints


Schweppes

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited) · Warping prints

Hello everyone,

I am an owner of a Ultimaker Original + with heated bed. As you can see i made a sound isolated box for my Ultimaker and it also serves like a heated chamber. I have finally got rid of the leaking and dripping PLA from the extrusion block (by tighten the brass on the nozzle).

Here is a close up of the print head.

20150829_130546.thumb.jpg.c95f72c09566dc0d4fba713706ddac7a.jpg

Here is a picture of my Ultimaker in my own made sound isolated box.

20150829_125147.thumb.jpg.12a9776ca341d96d8cf386aef5829c66.jpg

Before i start print, i use the following steps:

1. Cleaning the glass.

2. Pre heating the PLA (also the bed).

3. While pre heating, all the PLA from last print gets out the extrusion block until there is not coming PLA out of the nozzle (To prevent leaking PLA from extrusion block).

4. And then i start printing when its preheated and close the chamber with the front door.

Last night i started printing a huge file for the first time in my new own made box.

And when i got home after 5 hours. The object looked like this.

20150829_125204.thumb.jpg.f7cc8c7362631f875724cf51514e3226.jpg

The object was warped.

So i start searching the internet and i could not find exactly what the issue could be.

I also noticed that when i start printing the first layer. It does not stick very well on the glass (even when i clean the glass always). I got the feeling like there is not coming enough PLA out of the nozzle. I was busy for 2 days leveling the bed so good before i start printing in my own made box.

(i can make also a picture between the nozzle and the bed high if it is necessary).

I use standard settings for printing the files.

Untitled-2.thumb.png.c6a3bfa70cb3ffb752e53db67194fd82.png

So the question is: How does this warping happen and why does not my first layer stick on the glass very well? What did i forgot, or what am I doing wrong.

If something is not clear enough just ask me. I hope that I explained the situation very well and hope someone could help me.

With kind regards,

Schweppes

20150829_130546.thumb.jpg.c95f72c09566dc0d4fba713706ddac7a.jpg

20150829_125147.thumb.jpg.12a9776ca341d96d8cf386aef5829c66.jpg

20150829_125204.thumb.jpg.f7cc8c7362631f875724cf51514e3226.jpg

Untitled-2.thumb.png.c6a3bfa70cb3ffb752e53db67194fd82.png

Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    "While pre heating, all the PLA from last print gets out the extrusion block until there is not coming PLA out of the nozzle (To prevent leaking PLA from extrusion block)."

    That's probably the reason your first layer isn't sticking and it looks like not enough material is coming out. During the start of the print, when it's priming the head, does filament come out of the nozzle before it starts printing? If not, there's your problem.

    I also don't quite get how that procedure is going to stop leakages as everything gets filled right back up as soon as you start printing. Leakage just means that things weren't tight enough.

    A little bit of glue can help with adhesion and activating brim helps A LOT. Here's some more info on warping:

    http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#warping

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    How warm will it get in your closed box? PLA does not like beeing warm. For ABS the solution you have is good but I would not close it for PLA.

     

    It gets pretty warm, so warm that i do not know what to do anymore.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Warping prints

     

    @Schweppes: Sorry to be a bit off-topic, but do I get this right? You have a CLOSED box around your Ultimaker made out of wood and other flammable materials, you don't know how warm it gets exactly on the inside and you let it run unattended? Then you're at least very, very brave IMHO... but maybe I got it completely wrong...

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    @Schweppes: Sorry to be a bit off-topic, but do I get this right? You have a CLOSED box around your Ultimaker made out of wood and other flammable materials, you don't know how warm it gets exactly on the inside and you let it run unattended? Then you're at least very, very brave IMHO... but maybe I got it completely wrong...

     

    I am a totally noob and yes my ultimaker is in a closed box. The problem with this closed box idea is that i get very bad results in long runs and very good quality in short runs.

    For an example.

    This happened last night after 7 hours of printing.

    20150830_022724.thumb.jpg.4e3576ea81d96dee92b2e563dbb82fd7.jpg

    20150830_022724.thumb.jpg.4e3576ea81d96dee92b2e563dbb82fd7.jpg

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    Enclosing the umo for abs should work. But you must control the board heat, the motors so they don't go beyond 80? (I dont remember) and an air exit/input for the sensible parts. There are many options on youmagine of other users that have tested their setups.

    Also pla needs to cool fast to have quality. Abs needs an stable temp area, etc etc. And yes like Dim3nsionner said, that setup it's kinda dangerous.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    Please check this out before you continue with your box. 3D printers should not be run in a closed box without surveillance IMHO. Just adding a fan is a bad idea as it would supply oxygen to a fire inside the box. A fire is likely to happen due to the electronics overheating.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    If it gets warm in that box don't print PLA! It will not work well the PLA will get soft before entering your machine and will cause all kinds of problems.

    For ABS this would be a good solution.

    Also a high temperature in your enclosure will cause your steppers and your electronics to run very hot. That might lead to issues for the future. Best would be to leave the steppers and electronics outside of the enclosure:)

    The solution is simple first try to print without using the enclosure at all. Once you build up some experience you can put it in the enclosure but I would not close it. Or make sure that cool air can enter the enclosure. Put a thermometer close to the machine to know at which temperature your are operating. The thermometer can be a very simple one.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    Thank you very much for the quick responses guys!!

    When i print without enclosure, i get very good results. The room is also big enough.

    I tought it would be better when i put the Ultimaker in an enclosed box for better results and to reduce sound of the printer.

    However you guys explained very well that it is actually a very bad idea to put a Ultimaker in an enclosed box :D

    So for now, i will test it without closing the box (i will put the front door away). And if that's dangerous too, i will take the Ultimaker out the box.

    I am not sure if this is okay, or that i need to get rid of the whole box.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    The answer is measure the operating temperature to see if it is ok within the box with the frond open or not. You will also probably notice it on your results. Keeping the front open will help quite a bit. You already have 1 answer outside the box it works well.

    Sorry that the noise reduction part will not work:)

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    The answer is measure the operating temperature to see if it is ok within the box with the frond open or not. You will also probably notice it on your results. Keeping the front open will help quite a bit. You already have 1 answer outside the box it works well.

    Sorry that the noise reduction part will not work:)

     

    At least i have one answer solved, i think i solved two problems. The first layer sticks also immediately on the build platform after tweaking the settings.

    I will post a result to show how the results are after printing with open box and tweaked settings.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    Hi everyone,

    This is the result i got after removing the front door of my enclosed box and tweaking the settings a bit.

    20150830_131220.thumb.jpg.53ef4937ed79c63bd253e6c59fd739b9.jpg

    Thank you very much for the quick responses and advises!!:)

    20150830_131220.thumb.jpg.53ef4937ed79c63bd253e6c59fd739b9.jpg

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    Nice to hear you are on track again. Good luck with experimenting. We are here to help each other.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    You can also print on a cold table PLA and similar materials.

    The first layer need not be perfectly adhere to the table and does not need to be closed door.

    Simply use glue to 3D printing PROGLU3D PLA-cold, the adhesive solves most of the problems of deflection, warping and detachment a printout from the table.

    Of course you need to level the table and improve print settings but you do not have a heated table and really save money.

    You can also print on a cold table PLA and similar materials.

    The first layer need not be perfectly adhere to the table and does not need to be closed door.

    See this picture, these are prints of 50 hours or more without heating the table and printing is constantly on the spot.

    DSCF1565.thumb.JPG.ec580da7081ce4ba202290a5ea5d5152.JPG

    IMG_1117.thumb.JPG.4e825775fee893084ed7bbf858a2ca5c.JPG

    DSCF1467.thumb.JPG.c2ca36b99d3b6d42ee67b37bc122d7db.JPG

    DSCF1468.thumb.JPG.d8e2e8b04aa7f3153c6eaa159494fd02.JPG

    DSCF1565.thumb.JPG.ec580da7081ce4ba202290a5ea5d5152.JPG

    IMG_1117.thumb.JPG.4e825775fee893084ed7bbf858a2ca5c.JPG

    DSCF1467.thumb.JPG.c2ca36b99d3b6d42ee67b37bc122d7db.JPG

    DSCF1468.thumb.JPG.d8e2e8b04aa7f3153c6eaa159494fd02.JPG

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    Awesome prints!

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    So amazing but they want to remove me because I do not promote product Ultimaker.

    Sorry for the confusion and success.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Warping prints

    For your information, I have decided to remove ProCoPrint3D from the forum.

    Not for the sole reason of promoting a different brand, but because there was a problem in his attitude where he refused to comply to our house rules.

    Please feel free to read them.

    • Like 2
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • UltiMaker Cura 5.3 stable released
        In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
          • Thanks
          • Like
        • 31 replies
      • Here it is. The new UltiMaker S7
        The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
         
         
        So what’s new?
        The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
         
        The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
         
        The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
         

         
        The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
        Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more  
        Curious to see the S7 in action?
        We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
        It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
        Register here for the Webinar
          • Like
        • 18 replies
      • UltiMaker Cura Alpha 🎄 Tree Support Spotlight 🎄
        Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
         
        We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.  
          • Like
        • 23 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...