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Schweppes

Warping prints

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Hello everyone,

I am an owner of a Ultimaker Original + with heated bed. As you can see i made a sound isolated box for my Ultimaker and it also serves like a heated chamber. I have finally got rid of the leaking and dripping PLA from the extrusion block (by tighten the brass on the nozzle).

Here is a close up of the print head.

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Here is a picture of my Ultimaker in my own made sound isolated box.

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Before i start print, i use the following steps:

1. Cleaning the glass.

2. Pre heating the PLA (also the bed).

3. While pre heating, all the PLA from last print gets out the extrusion block until there is not coming PLA out of the nozzle (To prevent leaking PLA from extrusion block).

4. And then i start printing when its preheated and close the chamber with the front door.

Last night i started printing a huge file for the first time in my new own made box.

And when i got home after 5 hours. The object looked like this.

20150829_125204.thumb.jpg.f7cc8c7362631f875724cf51514e3226.jpg

The object was warped.

So i start searching the internet and i could not find exactly what the issue could be.

I also noticed that when i start printing the first layer. It does not stick very well on the glass (even when i clean the glass always). I got the feeling like there is not coming enough PLA out of the nozzle. I was busy for 2 days leveling the bed so good before i start printing in my own made box.

(i can make also a picture between the nozzle and the bed high if it is necessary).

I use standard settings for printing the files.

Untitled-2.thumb.png.c6a3bfa70cb3ffb752e53db67194fd82.png

So the question is: How does this warping happen and why does not my first layer stick on the glass very well? What did i forgot, or what am I doing wrong.

If something is not clear enough just ask me. I hope that I explained the situation very well and hope someone could help me.

With kind regards,

Schweppes

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20150829_125147.thumb.jpg.12a9776ca341d96d8cf386aef5829c66.jpg

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Untitled-2.thumb.png.c6a3bfa70cb3ffb752e53db67194fd82.png

Edited by Guest

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"While pre heating, all the PLA from last print gets out the extrusion block until there is not coming PLA out of the nozzle (To prevent leaking PLA from extrusion block)."

That's probably the reason your first layer isn't sticking and it looks like not enough material is coming out. During the start of the print, when it's priming the head, does filament come out of the nozzle before it starts printing? If not, there's your problem.

I also don't quite get how that procedure is going to stop leakages as everything gets filled right back up as soon as you start printing. Leakage just means that things weren't tight enough.

A little bit of glue can help with adhesion and activating brim helps A LOT. Here's some more info on warping:

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#warping

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How warm will it get in your closed box? PLA does not like beeing warm. For ABS the solution you have is good but I would not close it for PLA.

 

It gets pretty warm, so warm that i do not know what to do anymore.

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@Schweppes: Sorry to be a bit off-topic, but do I get this right? You have a CLOSED box around your Ultimaker made out of wood and other flammable materials, you don't know how warm it gets exactly on the inside and you let it run unattended? Then you're at least very, very brave IMHO... but maybe I got it completely wrong...

Edited by Guest

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@Schweppes: Sorry to be a bit off-topic, but do I get this right? You have a CLOSED box around your Ultimaker made out of wood and other flammable materials, you don't know how warm it gets exactly on the inside and you let it run unattended? Then you're at least very, very brave IMHO... but maybe I got it completely wrong...

 

I am a totally noob and yes my ultimaker is in a closed box. The problem with this closed box idea is that i get very bad results in long runs and very good quality in short runs.

For an example.

This happened last night after 7 hours of printing.

20150830_022724.thumb.jpg.4e3576ea81d96dee92b2e563dbb82fd7.jpg

20150830_022724.thumb.jpg.4e3576ea81d96dee92b2e563dbb82fd7.jpg

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Enclosing the umo for abs should work. But you must control the board heat, the motors so they don't go beyond 80? (I dont remember) and an air exit/input for the sensible parts. There are many options on youmagine of other users that have tested their setups.

Also pla needs to cool fast to have quality. Abs needs an stable temp area, etc etc. And yes like Dim3nsionner said, that setup it's kinda dangerous.

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Please check this out before you continue with your box. 3D printers should not be run in a closed box without surveillance IMHO. Just adding a fan is a bad idea as it would supply oxygen to a fire inside the box. A fire is likely to happen due to the electronics overheating.

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If it gets warm in that box don't print PLA! It will not work well the PLA will get soft before entering your machine and will cause all kinds of problems.

For ABS this would be a good solution.

Also a high temperature in your enclosure will cause your steppers and your electronics to run very hot. That might lead to issues for the future. Best would be to leave the steppers and electronics outside of the enclosure:)

The solution is simple first try to print without using the enclosure at all. Once you build up some experience you can put it in the enclosure but I would not close it. Or make sure that cool air can enter the enclosure. Put a thermometer close to the machine to know at which temperature your are operating. The thermometer can be a very simple one.

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Thank you very much for the quick responses guys!!

When i print without enclosure, i get very good results. The room is also big enough.

I tought it would be better when i put the Ultimaker in an enclosed box for better results and to reduce sound of the printer.

However you guys explained very well that it is actually a very bad idea to put a Ultimaker in an enclosed box :D

So for now, i will test it without closing the box (i will put the front door away). And if that's dangerous too, i will take the Ultimaker out the box.

I am not sure if this is okay, or that i need to get rid of the whole box.

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The answer is measure the operating temperature to see if it is ok within the box with the frond open or not. You will also probably notice it on your results. Keeping the front open will help quite a bit. You already have 1 answer outside the box it works well.

Sorry that the noise reduction part will not work:)

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The answer is measure the operating temperature to see if it is ok within the box with the frond open or not. You will also probably notice it on your results. Keeping the front open will help quite a bit. You already have 1 answer outside the box it works well.

Sorry that the noise reduction part will not work:)

 

At least i have one answer solved, i think i solved two problems. The first layer sticks also immediately on the build platform after tweaking the settings.

I will post a result to show how the results are after printing with open box and tweaked settings.

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You can also print on a cold table PLA and similar materials.

The first layer need not be perfectly adhere to the table and does not need to be closed door.

Simply use glue to 3D printing PROGLU3D PLA-cold, the adhesive solves most of the problems of deflection, warping and detachment a printout from the table.

Of course you need to level the table and improve print settings but you do not have a heated table and really save money.

You can also print on a cold table PLA and similar materials.

The first layer need not be perfectly adhere to the table and does not need to be closed door.

See this picture, these are prints of 50 hours or more without heating the table and printing is constantly on the spot.

DSCF1565.thumb.JPG.ec580da7081ce4ba202290a5ea5d5152.JPG

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DSCF1565.thumb.JPG.ec580da7081ce4ba202290a5ea5d5152.JPG

IMG_1117.thumb.JPG.4e825775fee893084ed7bbf858a2ca5c.JPG

DSCF1467.thumb.JPG.c2ca36b99d3b6d42ee67b37bc122d7db.JPG

DSCF1468.thumb.JPG.d8e2e8b04aa7f3153c6eaa159494fd02.JPG

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For your information, I have decided to remove ProCoPrint3D from the forum.

Not for the sole reason of promoting a different brand, but because there was a problem in his attitude where he refused to comply to our house rules.

Please feel free to read them.

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