multiple problems, see picture

[mirobane 4]

hi all, im newbie here ^^

i've got one year i got ultimaker original+ and all was fine, mounting calibrating and printing was donne verry weel ( i've do great stuff like pip boy and other geek stuff ).

but they have 2 weeks printer make me this :

so , i dont know wath i can do, and i need to fix this because i got orders and i dont want close shop just because cant print like before.

HELP !!! T-T

[gr5 2,268]

In your upper photo you show the normal view of cura - you should try two other views. First of all never try to print anything without checking it in layer view first - I think that would have shown you that it wasn't going to print it right. Then check the part in xray view mode. In xray mode it shows red wherever there is a problem. If there is no red then uncheck all the "fix horrible" checkboxs - I think type "A" is checked by default.

This post may sound confusing to you but just try these things and see what happens.

[etienne-martin 0]

Did you work with SketchUp?

the problem may come from the incorect orientation of some faces.

Select, rigth clic, "reverse faces" and export again.

I agree with gr5 for the check in the Cura layers view

[mirobane 4]

hi, sommes news pics

i presume is was made in sketchup because the auth have made a big plan of wath i want to build inside them

there is wath i want to print : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1063999

thx

[gr5 2,268]

That is so bizarre! As far as I can tell it looks like sometimes the X axis goes backwards while printing. But it's consistent enough that the part has a consistent length. I have never seen anything like that. I guess I'd like to see it printing the bottom layer - or the first layer where it doesn't properly make that arc. A video.

Why would the X axis go backwards? Does it go backwards? I can't imagine how else it could make that pattern.

[gr5 2,268]

Or maybe there is extreme stringing - maybe you didn't check "retraction"? Or somehow your retraction distance on the printer got set to zero mm? instead of the default 4.5mm?

[mirobane 4]

hi,

im a bit in the cloud because im just waked up today and english not my native language. so sorry if im not engouth precise.

so,

i have do wath you telled me, adedmore retraction, and improved a bit but dont know how to use sketchup for repair the model if is the bad guy .

new problem and i presume it was here before just not noticed to now : sommes filling layers goes out of the printable piece and also inside look closely, i presme this is partialy why i have caped semi-hole on the side.

i will try to print an other item for see wath apens if is not a printer itself problem or file stuff.

[mirobane 4]

i have tryed to print with other item, and seems is from printer but in a diferent way now.

like something stop axis at certains ways. i have already put wd 40 on these last day and watever i place item on other place of the plate i get same stuff . im loosing my head :v

Edited December 18, 2015 by Guest

[peggyb 171]

can you check if your fan is running on the bottom of the printer? It should start when you turn on the printer to cool the electronics board.

[Dim3nsioneer 558]

What's your belt tension?

[nallath 1,124]

Looks like you're trying to print too hot. Could also be old material.

[etienne-martin 0]

It's not a problem in SketchUp. We would have seen it on your layers view.

Could you post a screenshot of the Ultimaker configuration?

What exact material did you used? (to check the temperature, not for the "stopping" problem)

No special noise from the belts?

Are the screws on the belts wheels correctly screwed?

[neotko 1,417]

Try to look between the peek and the heat break barrel to see if there's any pla material there or between the alu heat block and nozzle. It's hard with the alu fan cap but get close and inspect it. It might be hotend leaking on some place. Make photos. The assembly manual doesn't explain that the nozzle must be tight (carefully) while hot or when it expands it leaves room for the filament to leak inside.

Edit: I did fast reading. So the machine it's one year old. Ok check the peek/ptfe coupler. They shrink overtime and specially the coupler when dead can leave a gap between the ptfe/peek. If so, you should see black goo around the bottom of the peek/barrel.

Edited December 19, 2015 by Guest

[mirobane 4]

peggyb : dont got fan under machine

Dim3nsioneer : i can play through the fire and flames solo on belt

nallath : a bit too hot maybe , is old esun filament ( dont got other for the moment ) i need to found the rigth temp setting for this one.

etienne-martin :

- screenshoots of cura config comming soon.

- look wath i said to dim3nsioneer & nallath

- expect usual working noises nope , and there are rigth screwed

neotko : did you have a instructional video or can you tell me it on french ? im not sure to understand all , so , i teardow maximum accesible nozzle parts as i can and send you wath i've do .

[mirobane 4]

video of teardowned nozzle (still uplauding 20-12-15 @ 01AM gmt+1 )

 

Edited December 20, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

You have black goo under the peek. Buy a new ptfe coupler. But you will need to clean the peek.

Pick a hightemp gloves or some tools to hold the 'peek' and clean it. Heat the hotend to 90-95 and do atomic. Then disassemble the peek.

You can use a airdryer focused on the peek and then you should be able to take out the black burned material.

Please, post photos of the ptfe coupler.

Your print fails because the material it's leaking between the ptfe/peek.

Also. The ptfe coupler it's from ultimaker? I ask because some china sellers sell it with a 4.1mm tip and it must be 5.1 or the filament leaks. Also this happens when the ptfe gets very old (it shrinks).

Get a caliper and measure your ptfe coupler:

Edited December 20, 2015 by Guest

[mirobane 4]

okay, where i can buy a kit and for how much ?

the ptfe coupler are the original we get when buy the UMO+ but dont have caliper, so i made a measure picture with wath i have

and how about this bad x / y ? i read about bad sd card stuff somewhere they corrupt gcode but dont have bad pin in sd slot of controll panel. i want try to print something via usb but not see any option on cura. i got a aduino 2xxx on windows controll panel and dont know how to do.

( i have a netbook with ubuntu studio if necesary )

Edited December 20, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Ultimaker sells ptfe couplers on their stores. Yours it's shrinked a bit and clearly deformed by use. Make a photo of the bottom of the ptfe. I bet it isn't circular anymore and it's burned. I buy mines on a china trusted store because I use 1.75 but since you use the stock stuff you can get one at any distributor very fast.

If you do 5-10 atomics without the ptfe coupler (use tools and gloves) you might clean it fully without a full dissasemble. But if you never changed the peek it might or not be damaged. In theory it should be just fine. Also a new nozzle won't hurt since they do get dmg over time.

First task. Get a new coupler and clean the other parts.

[JohnFox 25]

Nothing wrong with the model. The Cura images look fine.

 

hi, sommes news pics

i presume is was made in sketchup because the auth have made a big plan of wath i want to build inside them

there is wath i want to print : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1063999

thx

 

[JohnFox 25]

Changing the coupler will make a HUGE difference. They do wear, so I would always keep one as a spare, ( nozzle as well).

 

okay, where i can buy a kit and for how much ?

the ptfe coupler are the original we get when buy the UMO+ but dont have caliper, so i made a measure picture with wath i have

and how about this bad x / y ? i read about bad sd card stuff somewhere they corrupt gcode but dont have bad pin in sd slot of controll panel. i want try to print something via usb but not see any option on cura. i got a aduino 2xxx on windows controll panel and dont know how to do.

( i have a netbook with ubuntu studio if necesary )

 

[mirobane 4]

found LM6LUU are rusted on central X/Y part i will buy sommes tommorow and try.

for quality print nozzle i think buy this kit for be sure get all necesary parts https://shop.ultimaker.com/product/2/HotEndUpgrade

i dont want to be sad, but for a 1200$ printer, is a bit weird to replace so important parts , its cost 2 roll of 3Mm PLA lol. ( i said this , but i think is maybe not better with china rep-rap's xD )

so i stay you tuned , have fun!

[mirobane 4]

hi again all.

like promise, i keep u tuned and we can close the thread ! Lo/

so, for X/Y it was the gear on one nema 17 they was semi uncrewed so "voila"

and for the nozzle , they was cloged, i unmounted all metalic parts

put all on a 50/50 WD40 + ACETON glass for 2 days

used a gaz torch for heat it all after dry them

removed burned things

uncloged nozzle, and drilled very ligth the inside before reput it on a new mixture of wd/aceton for a day

be carefull with them because I have been forced to tap the aluminum heat block before rescrew all ( aceton i presume )

so, not changed peek and ptfe coupler but seems work fine again

thx !

[neotko 1,417]

Without a new ptfe coupler (yours it's really damaged) it will work but bit by bit will leak again inside the peek through the heat break brass barrel and will clog. Sorry but if there's a gap, there's a gap...

[gr5 2,268]

so, for X/Y it was the gear on one nema 17 they was semi uncrewed so "voila"

That sounds like your main problem. That explains the bizarre infill in your pictures.

[mirobane 4]

neotko : is ordered, but i can only use the old one for now and think use it to the end or when they redo bad prints, i think i already receved when this will pass .

gr5 : yes, main problem are fixed

ah, i not tell, i put pc thermal paste on ceramic nossle heater when remounted it . now plastic extrude at perfect temp