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Fan Shrouds and the Olsson Block - What are you using?

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It's pretty difficult to say which fan shroud is the best as everyone will have their own opinion on what works well for them with the Olsson Block.

So maybe a better question to ask is not which one is the best, but which one are you using?

So, what fan shroud are people here using with their Olsson Blocks?

My OB is on its way from 3dsolex, so all I can say is I use the Venkel shroud on my standard nozzle block. I hope we can get a few answers here as I'm sure a lot of people getting the OB will be looking for a custom shroud as well.

Edited by Guest

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I use the UM fan shroud but put some ceramic tape between OB and shroud. Works fine for me.

 

Do you find the ceramic tape is better than the Kapton stuff?

 

Well, I should have written ceramic strip, it's not sticky. It's about 2mm thick, so I expect a much better isolation than from Kapton tape which is much thinner. The ideal thing might be a sandwich of both. On my UMO, I have a fan duct printed from XT which touches the heater block, just separated by one layer of ceramic strip and one of Kapton tape. It doesn't deform.

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I've designed a set of fan ducts that can swivel away for easy access to the nozzle and vertical adjustment, no assembly screws required, very good flow, can also be used for those with dual nozzle set ups. I'm just redoing the design with the ability to completely remove the ductand stow the fans for when not needed as I found when testing some of the higher temperature materials with a bed temp of 100 degrees and no fans, the ducts in PLA began to warp at the bottom. So now I can remove the ducts and replace with some simple fan stowage mounts when high temperature printing with no fans. The files will be available in a few hours, they take about 2.5 hrs to print, if you give them a try let me know any problems or surgestions etc, I'll see if I can improve them.

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Hi Eldridge

I think it suffers a bit due to the thin wall thickness, mine were fine with PLA as the bed was only set to 50, but when I tried the Igus filament with the bed at 100 it was way above the glass transit action temperature.

I've just put up a Version 2 that is removable (V2 R)so if I'm not using fans I swap out the ducts and put in a pair of Fan Stows, it takes less than 60 seconds to do, so if no fans are required I swap the ducts out. I will try some ABS over the Xmas break and see how I get on, be interested in your polycarbonate, what is the Tg for PC?

Edited by Guest

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Hi Eldridge

I think it suffers a bit due to the thin wall thickness, mine were fine with PLA as the bed was only set to 50, but when I tried the Igus filament with the bed at 100 it was way above the glass transit action temperature.

I've just put up a Version 2 that is removable (V2 R)so if I'm not using fans I swap out the ducts and put in a pair of Fan Stows, it takes less than 60 seconds to do, so if no fans are required I swap the ducts out. I will try some ABS over the Xmas break and see how I get on, be interested in your polycarbonate, what is the Tg for PC?

 

I couldn't tell you, but it prints (slowly) at the max temp limit of a UM2. (it's been a while)

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