RetromanIE 41
I use the UM fan shroud but put some ceramic tape between OB and shroud. Works fine for me.
Do you find the ceramic tape is better than the Kapton stuff?
I use the UM fan shroud but put some ceramic tape between OB and shroud. Works fine for me.
Do you find the ceramic tape is better than the Kapton stuff?
I use the UM fan shroud but put some ceramic tape between OB and shroud. Works fine for me.
Do you find the ceramic tape is better than the Kapton stuff?
Well, I should have written ceramic strip, it's not sticky. It's about 2mm thick, so I expect a much better isolation than from Kapton tape which is much thinner. The ideal thing might be a sandwich of both. On my UMO, I have a fan duct printed from XT which touches the heater block, just separated by one layer of ceramic strip and one of Kapton tape. It doesn't deform.
Where doe you get the ceramic stuff?
A long time ago in a shop far, far away: http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/product.php?id_product=10
But it's out of stock now.
I've designed a set of fan ducts that can swivel away for easy access to the nozzle and vertical adjustment, no assembly screws required, very good flow, can also be used for those with dual nozzle set ups. I'm just redoing the design with the ability to completely remove the ductand stow the fans for when not needed as I found when testing some of the higher temperature materials with a bed temp of 100 degrees and no fans, the ducts in PLA began to warp at the bottom. So now I can remove the ducts and replace with some simple fan stowage mounts when high temperature printing with no fans. The files will be available in a few hours, they take about 2.5 hrs to print, if you give them a try let me know any problems or surgestions etc, I'll see if I can improve them.
I'm using Izzy's Version 1. Seeing some deformation of the left duct in ABS too. I may reprint in polycarbonate.
Hi Eldridge
I think it suffers a bit due to the thin wall thickness, mine were fine with PLA as the bed was only set to 50, but when I tried the Igus filament with the bed at 100 it was way above the glass transit action temperature.
I've just put up a Version 2 that is removable (V2 R)so if I'm not using fans I swap out the ducts and put in a pair of Fan Stows, it takes less than 60 seconds to do, so if no fans are required I swap the ducts out. I will try some ABS over the Xmas break and see how I get on, be interested in your polycarbonate, what is the Tg for PC?
Edited by GuestHi Eldridge
I think it suffers a bit due to the thin wall thickness, mine were fine with PLA as the bed was only set to 50, but when I tried the Igus filament with the bed at 100 it was way above the glass transit action temperature.
I've just put up a Version 2 that is removable (V2 R)so if I'm not using fans I swap out the ducts and put in a pair of Fan Stows, it takes less than 60 seconds to do, so if no fans are required I swap the ducts out. I will try some ABS over the Xmas break and see how I get on, be interested in your polycarbonate, what is the Tg for PC?
I couldn't tell you, but it prints (slowly) at the max temp limit of a UM2. (it's been a while)
I'm using mine
I'm using Labern's printed in ABS, with some kapton, holding up very nice, don't see any deformation. Only printing PLA/nGen on this machine so relative low temps only.
Do like izzy's desing but no real need to try it for now.
I'm using mine
I'm thinking yours is the one I'll go for when the olsson block arrives
Recommended Posts
Dim3nsioneer 558
I use the UM fan shroud but put some ceramic tape between OB and shroud. Works fine for me.
Link to post
Share on other sites