Cold layer?

[Mammcat 0]

Hello, my name is Quicu, i have a ultimaker 2 printer from 1 mouth ago.

I'm doing tests, thanks to this forum and I have solved things , but now I have a problem I do not know how to solve .

Some times, some prints, not allways, the prints have a problem like a cold layer.

I'm working with 0.4 nuzzel, 0.06 layer and 28mm/s speed and 210º PLA, with CURA.

The printing is very easy to break in the deformed layer.

I dont know, if i have a temerature problem, mechanical printer problem... the problem is not allways at the same layer.

Thanks.

Quicu

[Killerspec 0]

HI Quica

I had few issues like that with my printer at the start a few weeks ago and after searching the web high and low for answer I got chatting with a guy in the States on mIrc one night and his advice was to turn up the heat of the nozzle. Since then I am running the system at around 230 degrees and my prints are better for it.

Please note that this has worked for me and only a suggestion test with your own machine but let me know if it works for you.

Regards

Matthew

[JohnFox 25]

It looks like you have the layer skipping problem, where the build plate drops down too much.

My theory is that the bearings on the Z axis are sticking.

Clean the two Z axis rods so there is no oil on them. Keep them oil free.

[cloakfiend 995]

Learn how to do proper atomic pulls and do a lot of them. Problem solved. The reason you are cranking temps up too high, (230) for 0.06 for example is that you have a slow jam. Its only a matter of time before you get complete faliure imho.

For 0.06 i use 185 degrees @30. Thats almost 50 degrees higher! I use 230 for 0.2 layer height at 50mm/s

Again as i have said before, do A LOT (like 30-40) of them and keep going even after they appear clean just to be sure.

This is a common problem dont worry, i also learnt the hard way. Your printer is fine.

[gr5 2,194]

It could be any of the 3 answers above but most likely Z issues - the table is a bit sticky and then suddenly moves down too much so it looks like an underextruded layer.

[Mammcat 0]

Hi. first i test the temperature, and do the same.

Then i i lubricate the Z guide columns with the spesific oil, the Z screw was good. The tests after this are good.

Thanks for all.

Quicu

[JohnFox 25]

I would NOT advise lubricating the Z guide columns. That can cause problems.

 

Hi. first i test the temperature, and do the same.

Then i i lubricate the Z guide columns with the spesific oil, the Z screw was good. The tests after this are good.

Thanks for all.

Quicu

 

[yellowshark 153]

Whatever your problem is/was I agree with cloakfiend, your extruder temp is way way too high. Mind you this is always a tricky one, whilst I agree with his temp +/- 5 for 0.06, I would consider his temp for for .2 at 50mm/s to be too high, I would use 205-210 normally.

[cloakfiend 995]

Yeah maybe my .2 layer temps are a bit high but i dont usually print like that so i have little experience in that area. 0.06 is my domain,  0.04 too, but overhange sucks balls at that resolution with the 0.4 nozzle.

Edited January 6, 2016 by Guest

[yellowshark 153]

Yeah I suspect our approach is similar, if I am prototyping for someone I will use .200 or .300 and take my favourite filaments and test to death to get the speed/temp. spot on (and as low as possible) for those combinations. Apart from curiosity I have never gone below .100 (print time impacts costs) and have no data on speed/temps. below .100 - I don't envy you on those overhangs

[cloakfiend 995]

Im just afer a smooth surface with little to no effort, and thats something i just cant acheive with 0.1. I could when UM had the best filaments, but now they are useless to me from a smoothing point of view. I treat UM filament as scrap now. I only use colorfabb at the moment, but am curious to find another brand that smooths and prints just as good. I never got any breaks with the old um filament, and under extrusion was also less for me, resulting in much cleaner models.