70C is a bit hot. 60C is recommended.
Parts will stick to glass poorly if the glass is 30C but around 45C you suddenly get much better stickiness - it's a pretty sudden shift - above the critical temperature it doesn't matter what the temp is. Sort of.
Then you hit the glass temp of PLA around 52C. Being above 52C is helpful because if you have a large print it helps it give just a tiny tiny bit to reduce the stress and help prevent corners from lifting. This is better at 70C and even better at 75C. However only use that if you are desperate as there are plenty of other ways to get a part to stick other then keeping it above glass temp. Above glass temp your parts are more like clay and can be easily deformed - also don't remove them from the glass until it has cooled to below 50C or you will warp the part a bit.
So at 70C you get issues like the fifth picture down on the left here:
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
This heat can also make overhangs like the robot hands a bit worse. Just make sure you have max fan and nozzle at 210C and bed at 60C (or maybe even 50C). I always print at 60C with PLA and 100C with ABS.
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I would fix that rubbing - it can cause ugly layers potentially - they will show up as intermittent horizontal lines in your prints. You could remove the cap and cut a bit off or file it down. If you aren't getting any horizontal lines then it's not a big deal.
Like this one - this print has pretty severe Z issues (bed not moving the same distance each time):
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