Ultimaker Original Dual Fan Upgrade | Contributed by Neotko

[Titus 170]

I haven't tried bluetape. In my pre-HBK days I remember that was pretty shitty and I could never get it off.

@neotko, on the Colorfabb site they say for XT-CF20

Advised Heated bed

60-70C

So I'll print it with 60, no glue, and try the fridge to get it off

[Titus 170]

So I'll print it with 60, no glue, and try the fridge to get it off

 

60, no glue, pops right off at room temperature Onto the rest of the print!

[Titus 170]

Progress:

I messed the print up because I tried to ninja some things away that were getting stuck in my old fan shroud. Hit hotend, skipped steps, by print :(

But atleast I got it right! Now I hope I have enough material left to finish the print :(

[Blizz 53]

@Blizz, the problem is not the lack of adhesion, but the opposite

Did the part come off easily without the gluestick? And what temps were you printing on? 245/70?

 

Titus I know, was just saying that (for future reference) I didn't need it at all

I printed at 240/60 w/o fans.

[neotko 1,417]

That's the 50x50 version?

[Titus 170]

Yup, currently 44% of trying again, this time without original fanshroud to prevent stringing to get stuck. Going very steady and nice. Pausing it at 80% however, to swap out the almost depleted filament sample to a half finished sample of the XT-CF20 Living on the edge.

[Titus 170]

@neotko, @SandervG, I just spotted a rather sad mistake in the STL file

The 50x50 fan duct doesnt have the holes for the fan :(

I just finished the print and I depleted all my XT-CF20 :( I'll upload pictures of the print asap

[neotko 1,417]

Wow, that what happens when one goes fast :( You could drill with the bottom part so it fits... holy molly.. sorry :S!

[Titus 170]

I hope I can manage to drill the holes without breaking it :( I only have a hand drill.

[neotko 1,417]

Oh...

You might need to use a 2.5mm drill, and then a m3 cap to have the holes right...

:(! Sorry men! I just uploaded the changed file. The think it's that I have tested 30x30 and 40x40 fans, but I didn't test the 50x50 because I just don't have 2 50x50 fans with the same height or amps.

[Titus 170]

I'll be your tester I'll let you know if something else breaks down

Yeah I got a nice set, with the corresponding drills, I believe it's 2.5 or 2.4 depending on the material the drill is meant for(steel or brass). But only a hand drill, so I'll have to be careful there and start with like 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm.

[Titus 170]

My first thoughts, images are below:

-no holes in the fanshroud made it hard as I couldn't allign 4/4 holes. I ended up 3/4. A shame, but luckily I will be the only one

-The long m3 rods appear way to large on my printer somehow. Perhaps I need to install spacers at the top.

-The long m3 rods were turning way to tough, I had to use tools. Probably the allignment of the drilled out holes that is not 100%

-In my case with the long m3 rods I don't understand the top right/left parts, other than create some more space between the metal and the shroud. But I would rather use the bottom left/right parts and scale those in z axis, that would be more beneficial I think.

-The shroud is kinda leaning on the outsides, causing the middle to move towards the hotend. This could be fixed by the above scaling I think.

-The hot end part is REALLY close to the hot end, and the nozzle is sticking out quite a lot. Not sure how that was supposed to be, and if it would be better to have the fan shroud itself sit a little closer to the bed?

-I haven't tested it yet, as I dont have any kapton tape at all. So that will be a later stage!

Edited April 19, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Wow let me think. Clearly this design without the m3 10mm bellow the bottom parts, can't push the parts up enough.

I see a gap con the bottom left/right, that makes the bottom parts to not push up the fan cap.

[neotko 1,417]

Also @titus you might need to cut the nozzle hole a bit bigger, it's designed for e3d/jet nozzles. But also, if the fan cap bends it won't work... I need to be able to get some time to check it, but my wife got a gallbladder surgery and I'm almost 100% time with the shop and taking care of my almost 3 years old. It's a hell of a month :S !

[neotko 1,417]

Oh @titus could you check something for me? Since I don't have cfxt20 open to do. Get one of that broken pieces and (carefully) pass a lighter near the surface and let it cold down. Then check if it becomes 'harder' to bend and less flexible. If so, I have a fast easy fix.

[Titus 170]

@neotko, take care of your loved ones before you take care of us

At your first post, do you mean these gaps to the right?

I believe making parts that are under the fan even higher, instead of part that sandwitches the hot end, could solve this also.

I see, luckily making a hole bigger is easier than making it smaller

Yeah, I was thinking about that. The bending doesn't hit the bed. So the only thing affected could be the airflow?

About the flame, when subjected to a lot of heat it becomes fluidlike, and it shrinks a little upon cooling, I'm not sure if it becomes harder to bend, my broken pieces won't really allow to test it. The one part that I had broke, but I kinda put that in the flame for a while

[neotko 1,417]

The think it's that, because on umo+ I set x4 m3 10mm screws on the bottom parts (like on the animated gif) that bottom parts push up the fan cap so it stays straight. I might need to check the umo bom to see how long the umo not plus screws are, because on umo+ they are shorter.

One fast fix would be to make spacers so the screw goes in the same amount as on umo+.

Also, that gap where the cables pass might also be pushing the fan cap on a side. I know that if one of the fans go down the other will follow. But the main problem I see it's that seems that cfxt20 seems much more flexible than carbonfill formfutura.

I have a very quick fix for this.

Print the 'bottom-left' on PLA, and keep the 'bottom-right'. That should help keep the left one without going down, and that part doesn't get almost any heat.

Ofc this means that I should make the bottom clips different for the large 50x50 fan caps.

Oh also. In theory I made this fan caps for E3D nozzles... For umo nozzle I should make the bottom-left/right a bit taller, so the nozzle isn't that much exposed to the air.

I need a timemachine to make time...

Edited April 19, 2016 by Guest

[greengecko 8]

Hi

@neotko first thanks a lot for all your effort in providing this great manual.

I am about to do it with 2 50x50 fans as well in my UMO. I have two questions.

currently I have the dual color extension installed. do you think it would work for that by just adding another hole for the second nozzle?

or would it get too hot?

the second question do you think it is possible to either leave the bit around the nozzle hole basically open to avoid the closeness to the heating alu? or use a different material e.g. metall or something that does not burn easily as an connector and clip this into a frame like structure that connects the fan. would abs be strong enough if I do not have formfutura carbon and it is almost as expensive as gold to get it shipped to Australia ( if someone knows a reseller down under please let me know).

thanks again also to @titus for being the test dummy :-)

[greengecko 8]

two more questions....

I was offered a fan from the Australian reseller labelled Ultimaker UMO+ fan upgrade but they claim it is 24 V. I checked the one that is installed currently at my Ultimaker (which is an original one but my UMO is old having still 1.5.3 electronics) and here I find 0.06 A and 12 v. I assume they would not go well together if installed in parallel. should I use 12v or 24v anyway?

second I found a pwm-able 12v 0.1 A in my tech box. would it be possible to have an 0.06 A and an 0.1A installed in parallel?

or has someone found a source here in Australia of fans that work and are affordable.

thanks again and sunny greetings from Down Under

[neotko 1,417]

Thanks @greengecko it was a quite fast design (the 50x50 version) and I need time to change some basic stuff.

First of all. Originally I made it for 40x40 because the fans I got but also because they blow a lot of air.

Also I made it for single extruder so there's not really room on the fancap for a second but it could be done just changing the fancap part. I made it tha way so other users could design their fancap and adjust it for their setup since umo has hundreds of mods.

So. I will try to get time to:

- Upload the step files and original rhino files so others can change it easily.

- All the fan caps are made for e3d nozzles in mind, that's why it's so close to the alublock. Using umo size nozzles it has a lot of room to allow the fan cap to be printed even on pla with kapton (at least the parts away from the peek since the peek can go up to 120C-140C on a long print)

The problem it's that my wife it's recovering from a surgery and I'm so busy with my shop and little son :Dso I barely have time for all that I plan to mod.

If you want I should be able to upload all step files and rhino design so you can adjust it for your dual setup.

About the material and heat. I think that it could be printed on abs with kapton since the kapton should keep the material 'locked' even at fluid state. Ofc the best way to make it last longer it's to also add aluminium foil and protect the heat area with it and kapton tape.

I also noticed that there's a 0.2-0.6 error due print material that makes the fan 'push' from both sides so the fancap (specially the long 50x50) pushes down and the fans end being curved while they should be perfectly horizontal. This should be an easy fix by using a file or just bolean the object. But I need time to test it

Also I want to change all the topleft/right for the users that use small washers on the aluminium peek holder. This it's very important and I just found out thanks to @amedee (and me being silly not to notice how to fix it) because all the umo/umo+ assembled using the manual end with a slightly tilted hotend nozzle due the gap that exists between the alu/wood from the room that the coupler needs. But that might be unfixable for dual setup.

About heat from one hotend to the other and surrounding heat. I know that when one hotend it's on the other gets around 45-60C so it could be nice to use a material that at least don't bends at 60C. Abs should indeed work.

Also worse case scenario, my fancap has one advantage and it's that if you partially unacrew the fans you can take out the fancap and leave the fans hanging there. So if it bends/touches the alu block, youcan take it out very fast and print another without the fancap. That's why I made the design on so many parts, so they can be replaced if something went wrong without having to disassemble much.

So I'll try to upload step/rhino files so anyone can change it fast. And as soon I get time I'll fix the two main issues.

[greengecko 8]

@neotko: thanks for your very detailed explanation and response. first please make sure you spent your time on your loved ones before answering me.

i found a hopefully pair of 40x40 fans and get them shipped by eBay in the coming week. if suitable I let you guys know.

I do not know Rhino well but can work on step files. where do you upload the latest design? youmagine?

thanks for the idea I will try abs + caption + alu foil that sounds good.

I will first try a "normal" setup and then the dual version.

regarding the voltage I am still confused as people seem to use 24v and also 12 v reading in the forum. my has definitely 12 v, 0.06 A specs (my new ones have 0.08 so still within the recommended limit I hope.

cheers and all the best, greengecko

[neotko 1,417]

If you use 12v you need to solder them in serial so they run on the 24v plug (umo+). The basic diagram it's on the big post.

Hopefully I will upload something tonight, so busy :(

Remember that not all fans work with pwm, I wonder if some expert could say more about what to search on the specs because that's something I never was able to find out.

Read carefully the part about how to test if they work, I don't want anyone getting their transistor burn.

[neotko 1,417]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/joe1buqzdsuwvk0/umo-30x30-3ds-step-rhino.zip?dl=0

This it's for the 30x30 version, but since it's all almost the same it's a nice starting point. 3DS, rhino 5 and step format.

The inner fapcap it's a loft (rhino option to connect bezier curves) like this:

The step, rhino and 3dsmax files has all the curves, and basic stuff so anyone can change it as they want. The only problem it's that the original rhino for the 50x50 fan cap was overwrote by mistake, so I only have the stl files for that size :(

My next to do. Fix all the 0.3-0.6mm margin of error that curves the print. Also I want to make an easy addon to keep all flat, but I don't know... My 40x40 on 2 machines it's working just perfect.

[falc 6]

I have never had decent results with bluetape for XT tbh

[greengecko 8]

any chance you can upload the 40x40 version to somewhere?

thanks again