Hi to all !
Biofila PLATEC material print test @ 210°
PLA standard Cura settings with 0.4mm nozzle
a really interesting material !
here , it's not yet perfect but it's encouraging ! 
2
Told ya! I love it, specifically you can sand it very fast and yesterday tryed painting one with watercolor spray and it absorbs it almost perfect without primer.
It looks really smooth! What do you think is in a filament that makes it work better without a primer if you want to paint it?
It looks really smooth! What do you think is in a filament that makes it work better without a primer if you want to paint it?
Probably Poo! Hahahaha
No, for real, maybe? it's fully compostable in 2 years without shredding and can survive 110C like a champ.
Esit. Sorry it needs shreadding to decompose. It's willowflex the one that can be compostable without it.
Edited by GuestHi @gudo,
Reading your posts got me thinking about the possibility of replacing the PEEK and PTFE parts of my UMO by just one PBI part with an integrated cooling profile similar to your hotend...
Do you think this might work?
Would be interesting to gain some temp for e.g. PC printing with the UMO...
Btw. Where have you sourced the PBI?
Greetings from Graz!
Edited by GuestHi Graz !
I have no experience of UMO
however I think it is possible to adapt a similar PBI print head that I installed on my UM2 Ext on UMO.
my "All in 1" PBI printhead works really well, it is combined with a Bondtech feeder, close to 200 hours now, mainly PLA print, without any issue , I never experienced with the UM feeder
It seems that the use of PBI requires a feeder with high torque, there have more friction than with PTFE, but no risk of sticking or deformation.
Neotko is a great specialist of the UMO and he'll be the best advice , he tested a 1.75mm PBI coupler , he'll be able to give some feedback.
I can help you to redesign a complete adaptation if necessary
PBI source : http://www.plasticstockist.com/Duratron-PBI.aspx
Hi @godo,
Thank you for the hints!!
acc. to gudo, you tried PBI at your UMO with a 1,75mm setup - what is your experience? Do you think just replacing the PEEK by a similar part made of PBI might be sufficient to reach temps to print hight temp materials and still be safe?
b.r.
drayson
Edited by GuestSorry for the late answer too busy this days 
@drayson I didn't actually used it on a UMO, but on a UMO+ with UM2+ hotend. So is basically the same as using it on um2+
The only problem I see of doing a PIB for UMO is that you need to design something that replaces the PEEK around the hotbarrel & the PTFE coupler. It could be a really big one PIB piece.
Ofc that would be a bruteforce approach. Something more elegant would be to make the PEEK on Aluminium and replace the PTFE coupler with one made on PIB. It would probably need active cooling for the aluminium. But again, is overcomplicating things, also not cheap.
It would be cheaper to just get a um2 hotend and use a PIB coupler or just use a less expensive (but that won't last that long) TFM + I2K, to use the hotend at 300C. Will it last forever? No, on PIB it looks like it would certainly last A LOT since it can handle 300C continuous.
So I don't know to what extend is worth going the umo modding route for a PIB, the problem is that the PEEK must be replaced since it starts to degrade at 260C, and I seen with my own eyes how the bottom of the barrel starts to deform at 260C+ after 5-10h of use, not enough to cause troubles but it won't last much.
Other possibility is that making the PEEK on PIB should suffice to cut the heat from arriving on the PTFE coupler, probably with a fan and another design to keep the tip near the ptfe cool, but... I don't know
Hi to all
It's been a while since I have not posted, here just a few new PBI print head.
It now makes some tens and tens of hours that the PBI head works without problems
No special maintenance on that level.
One thing is certain ! is that I'll have trouble going back on classic hot ends uses!
Some pics of my final PBI print head, as I am an uncondional user of Biofila PLATEC which is very suitable for functional prototyping, most parts are printed with this material.
some print work samples
50mm bridge lenght
Yoda with a ton of retractations
4
That looks really good, it seems like it can handle retractions better than the original printhead?
How long is the pbi-part and which outter-diameter did you choose? Do you feel like it can be made shorter without the loss of functionality?
That looks really good, it seems like it can handle retractions better than the original printhead?
How long is the pbi-part and which outter-diameter did you choose? Do you feel like it can be made shorter without the loss of functionality?
Hi MTG
Thanks !
The part was machined from a19mm dia. x 37mm lenght PBI rod, test said that 12 mm rod would be large enough.
My goal was to took the PBI properties opportunity for that the coupler /heat break could serve as a hot end support also, the all in 1 part.
A well functionality depends more on a appropriate lenght of the heat zone/warm zone/cold zone which is included in the total of the minimum 37mm, dictated by the need to had enough height under the XY shafts for the all parts head assembly housing around the hot end.
It looks really smooth! What do you think is in a filament that makes it work better without a primer if you want to paint it?
Btw I been digging into what is pla-tec since noone says what really has. And it seems that they use Potato starch as main component. Also there a company in usa that sells APLA that matches almost all the features of pla-tec, except that you actually need to 'bake' the printed part to get the matte finish and 140C temp resistant and after digging they use potatos. Probably the starch has better temp resistance than corn starch (common PLA).
How is plastic made of potato starch?
Super boring video:
1
Where did you get the PBI? In Germany, it seems very hard to get this. Also I just want a small pice for testing because it seems really expensive..
I would need Ø20mm x 0,5-1m...
Edited by GuestI would need Ø20mm x 0,5-1m...
One meter?? Whow...
You can order it in UK but please note that it is available in 305mm rods which costs app. 350€ incl. tax and shipping...
Also thinking of ordering but my financial officer (
) said "no"... (up to now)....
Actually I'm needing less than one meter. Is that right? One piece of Ø20mmx305mm is 350€? That would make a price of 1148€/m? I know it's expensive, but that expensive?
Edited by GuestTake a look here - thanks to Gudo for the link...
http://www.plasticstockist.com/Duratron-PBI.aspx
19.05mm Celazole Pbi Rod,305mm Length, Duratron Pbi Rod
€245.64 ex. VAT & Shipping
Edited by GuestActually I'm needing less than one meter. Is that right? One piece of Ø20mmx305mm is 350€? That would make a price of 1148€/m? I know it's expensive, but that expensive?
Yep, it is that expensive...
Has someone tried PEEK? Temperature shouldn't be the Problem - maybe too sticky?
@MTG,
PEEK is an integral part of the UMO hotend, but in combnation with a brass tube as it is sticky, and just a small PTFE coupler.
The UM2 has a different design.
BUT: What exactly would you like to do?
I have made a design for the UM2 for dual extrusion which uses nozzle lift and a cover which prevents oozing. I have changed it so far that you don't need an stepper motor anymore, the mechanism is controlled by a lever on the back side. For the tool change, the printhead does a special move to throw the lever. Then the nozzle lifts and gets covered.
I'm that far that the complete mechanism fits in the printhead and is ready for a prototype.
That mod does not require any build space in x,y but 5 mm in z. The only problem to solve is the heat brake.
I can't use the standard design as the nozzle gets lifted and I don't want to waste space in z-direction. At first I thought stainless steel would be okay, but I understood now that the heat zone should be as small as possible. Then I thought PBI is good, but I think thats too pricey.
1
Aaahhh.... great idea... With the use of PBI yo on the same track than me, but I'd like to apply the PBI parts to my beloved UMO :-)
My first thought was just to replace the PEEK and PTFE parts with PBI, but I also think it is not worth the invest...
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gudo 246
Indeed you're right ! at this moment I had not these two filament colors under the hand, may be I'll make 2 other like this
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