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paul9

how can you improve this print?

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Posted · how can you improve this print?

 

Hello everyone, how can you improve this aspect indicated by the arrows in blue color?

In the part marked with the red arrow the printing process works much better.

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Posted · how can you improve this print?

Any chance of inverting the object? That would avoid those particular overhangs, although you would get problems with that horizontal slot.

Otherwise try printing the shells much slower. A lower temperature may help a bit.

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Posted · how can you improve this print?

Any chance of inverting the object? That would avoid those particular overhangs, although you would get problems with that horizontal slot.

Otherwise try printing the shells much slower. A lower temperature may help a bit.

 

Hi JohnFox, the printing temperature is 205°C material is PLA speed 45mm/s height 0.1

is not more speed, I think that is correct

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Posted · how can you improve this print?

Maybe try outer shell speed = 30, inner shell speed = 40 and see what happens. ( Cura advanced tab )

Printing overhangs is always one of the hardest parts of printing.

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Posted · how can you improve this print?

I've printed that before (Anders' wrench insert)

Go slow, 40 mm/sec and 205-210 (every printer's temp is a bit different)

I printed mine at 0.2 layers (100% infill, it needs to be strong)

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Posted · how can you improve this print?

I've printed 3 of those. They are a bit tricky. Go slow, cool and max possible fan. Add more fan if possible (attach external desk fan?).

I recommend 35mm/sec, .2mm layer and 195C.

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Posted · how can you improve this print?

Also, turn off the heated bed (bed temp set to 0) and use blue painters tape for adhesion. Radiated heat from the bed makes overhangs like that rougher/saggier.

Also, consider that since that specific part will be inserted into the outer case, that the looks of the underside are not that important. Especially compared to getting a nice clean square for the socket to attach to. :)

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Posted · how can you improve this print?

Ooh - I wouldn't turn off the bed for this one. As long as fan is 100% you shouldn't need to lower the bed temp. This part has a small surface contact and you don't want brim so it's hard to get it to stick well without glass-and-glue-and-heat. But, yeah, you could use blue tape but then you have to re-level and make damn sure the bottom layer is squished and make sure you clean the wax off the blue tape with alcohol. Really I would avoid blue tape unless you are ready to waste a few prints learning a new technology.

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Posted (edited) · how can you improve this print?

Ooh - I wouldn't turn off the bed for this one.  As long as fan is 100% you shouldn't need to lower the bed temp.  This part has a small surface contact and you don't want brim so it's hard to get it to stick well without glass-and-glue-and-heat.  But, yeah, you could use blue tape but then you have to re-level and make damn sure the bottom layer is squished and make sure you clean the wax off the blue tape with alcohol.  Really I would avoid blue tape unless you are ready to waste a few prints learning a new technology.

 

All good points.  I have previously learned how to blue tape and re-level and alcohol, etc., as you say, so I did not think about the learning curve.

I was trying to get this to print a while ago: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:986729.  But the undersides were always rough.  When I went cold bed and 0.15 layer height (vs 0.1), I was able to get nice clean curved undersides.  Virtually flawless, actually.

I was just thinking that same technique could apply here, though I did not bother when I printed the OPs piece. :) But as you say, that is a whole bit of new learning and retooling too.

Anyway, YMMV.

If there is a different/better way, I would sure be interested in hearing about it. :)

Oh, and I was assuming PLA. I would not suggest cold bed for ABS.

Edited by Guest
Added a clarification.

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