how can you improve this print?

[paul9 20]

 

Hello everyone, how can you improve this aspect indicated by the arrows in blue color?

In the part marked with the red arrow the printing process works much better.

[paul9 20]

[JohnFox 25]

Any chance of inverting the object? That would avoid those particular overhangs, although you would get problems with that horizontal slot.

Otherwise try printing the shells much slower. A lower temperature may help a bit.

[paul9 20]

Any chance of inverting the object? That would avoid those particular overhangs, although you would get problems with that horizontal slot.

Otherwise try printing the shells much slower. A lower temperature may help a bit.

 

Hi JohnFox, the printing temperature is 205°C material is PLA speed 45mm/s height 0.1

is not more speed, I think that is correct

[JohnFox 25]

Maybe try outer shell speed = 30, inner shell speed = 40 and see what happens. ( Cura advanced tab )

Printing overhangs is always one of the hardest parts of printing.

[LePaul 312]

I've printed that before (Anders' wrench insert)

Go slow, 40 mm/sec and 205-210 (every printer's temp is a bit different)

I printed mine at 0.2 layers (100% infill, it needs to be strong)

[gr5 2,006]

I've printed 3 of those. They are a bit tricky. Go slow, cool and max possible fan. Add more fan if possible (attach external desk fan?).

I recommend 35mm/sec, .2mm layer and 195C.

[krys 206]

Also, turn off the heated bed (bed temp set to 0) and use blue painters tape for adhesion. Radiated heat from the bed makes overhangs like that rougher/saggier.

Also, consider that since that specific part will be inserted into the outer case, that the looks of the underside are not that important. Especially compared to getting a nice clean square for the socket to attach to.

[gr5 2,006]

Ooh - I wouldn't turn off the bed for this one. As long as fan is 100% you shouldn't need to lower the bed temp. This part has a small surface contact and you don't want brim so it's hard to get it to stick well without glass-and-glue-and-heat. But, yeah, you could use blue tape but then you have to re-level and make damn sure the bottom layer is squished and make sure you clean the wax off the blue tape with alcohol. Really I would avoid blue tape unless you are ready to waste a few prints learning a new technology.

[krys 206]

Ooh - I wouldn't turn off the bed for this one.  As long as fan is 100% you shouldn't need to lower the bed temp.  This part has a small surface contact and you don't want brim so it's hard to get it to stick well without glass-and-glue-and-heat.  But, yeah, you could use blue tape but then you have to re-level and make damn sure the bottom layer is squished and make sure you clean the wax off the blue tape with alcohol.  Really I would avoid blue tape unless you are ready to waste a few prints learning a new technology.

 

All good points.  I have previously learned how to blue tape and re-level and alcohol, etc., as you say, so I did not think about the learning curve.

I was trying to get this to print a while ago: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:986729.  But the undersides were always rough.  When I went cold bed and 0.15 layer height (vs 0.1), I was able to get nice clean curved undersides.  Virtually flawless, actually.

I was just thinking that same technique could apply here, though I did not bother when I printed the OPs piece.  But as you say, that is a whole bit of new learning and retooling too.

Anyway, YMMV.

If there is a different/better way, I would sure be interested in hearing about it.

Oh, and I was assuming PLA. I would not suggest cold bed for ABS.

Edited July 21, 2016 by Guest
Added a clarification.